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Old October 6th, 2015, 08:58 AM   #1
04Ninja25
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Crank no start

I ruled out no spark on my pre gen. I took out the spark plug and put it back on the plug wire and made sure the treads of the plug are touchin the head. Press the start button, no spark.

I looped the kick stand switch and the clutch lever.

Both coils are reading at 19.2k ohms from coil to end of spark plug wire.

Just at the coils both read 3.2 ohms

I have a meter that has ohms mode at auto only.

I thought that the cdi was the reason but I got another cdi from a running pregen it still won't spark.

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Old October 6th, 2015, 10:01 AM   #2
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Do you have spark in both plugs when you're craning the starter?
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Old October 6th, 2015, 10:37 AM   #3
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No spark on both

I just got done checking the crank sensor and when I press the start button there is voltage going through the wires.
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Old October 7th, 2015, 06:43 AM   #4
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What about fuel?
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Old October 7th, 2015, 07:44 AM   #5
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Make sure the replacement CDI, is the same part # as the original one.

Look on the CDI itself, there should be a foil decal with the part #

Below is the information for US models, except California models

This Kawasaki 21119-1415 IGNITER is used on these models and components:

1995 EX250-F9 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
1996 EX250-F10 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
1997 EX250-F11 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
1998 EX250-F12 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
1999 EX250-F13 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
2000 EX250-F14 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
2001 EX250-F15 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
2002 EX250-F16 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
2003 EX250-F17 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
2004 EX250-F18 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
2005 EX250-F19 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM


How-to test the CDI
Quote:
If you remove the non-red wire and ground that terminal of the coil there will be a spark. When you un-ground it there will be another spark. That is all the ignitor is doing but it is doing with a transistor when it receives a signal from the pickup coils. In between the pickup coils and the transistor is a micro-controller that determines the advance of the spark depending on rpm.
And as long as your in the neighborhood, you might as well service the plug caps,

Write-up
Quote:
Even bad plugs should do something, unless they are totally shot.

Did you renew the HT leads, and disassemble the caps?

Make sure you disassemble the caps, and clean them, and yes the caps get cruddy.

Here my write-up,

Quote:
Short explanation: The inside of the hard plastic caps accumulate crud the can short out the spark. This can cause rough running or failure to start. Every time you do any work on the bike: remove them disassemble and clean them and renew the wires or at least the connections.

The long Explanation, Warning engineering information can cause Drowsiness.
The ancient cylinder design of the engine dictates that the spark emanate form the center of the combustion chamber. In order to get it there, the plugs had to be located down deep in a well between the cams. This well is a perfect place for dirt and moisture to accumulate. Then because there is no cooling water at this point the metal around the plug runs very hot. Surround this with the large amount of cool metal and you have a recipe for condensation. Now K did drill a drain hole between the fins to help (a little) but it often gets plugged up.

The moisture boils off the base of the plug and the vapor condenses on the cool plastic cap and the plug insulator. This moisture forms a easier path for the electrons to ground than jumping the gap at the plug to make a spark. Misfire.
This issue is right up there with Pilot jets as a cause of trouble.

Here's some pictures that might be helpful. I took these when I replaced the wires themselves, as it was a good time for a write-up, and the wires were OEM from 1998.

Wires are just 7mm copper core, with clear silicone jacket

















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Old October 8th, 2015, 09:13 AM   #6
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What about fuel?
Fuel is fine. It flows out when I crank. Fuel does flow our of the drain holes too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostt View Post
Make sure the replacement CDI, is the same part # as the original one.

Look on the CDI itself, there should be a foil decal with the part #

Below is the information for US models, except California models

This Kawasaki 21119-1415 IGNITER is used on these models and components:

1995 EX250-F9 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
1996 EX250-F10 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
1997 EX250-F11 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
1998 EX250-F12 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
1999 EX250-F13 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
2000 EX250-F14 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
2001 EX250-F15 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
2002 EX250-F16 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
2003 EX250-F17 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
2004 EX250-F18 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM
2005 EX250-F19 Ninja 250R IGNITION SYSTEM


How-to test the CDI


And as long as your in the neighborhood, you might as well service the plug caps,

Write-up
Thanks for the help. I did not know I need the same exact cdi model year. And I'll have to check on the spark plug wires too. Thanks.

My spark plug wires to the coils seems to be reading kinda high according to the online manual.
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Old October 9th, 2015, 06:56 AM   #7
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Coil to spark plug wires are reading 19k ohms. 3.5 at just the coil. I don't know what more to look for.

I get voltage out of the crank sensor too.

Any help would be awesome.
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Old October 9th, 2015, 07:08 AM   #8
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Have you tried another battery?

Good grounds?

Tried different spark plugs?
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Old October 9th, 2015, 08:00 AM   #9
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Have you tried another battery?

Good grounds?

Tried different spark plugs?
Thanks for the tip.

I'm going to go get my battery check out tomorrow, I might as well do spark plugs since I'm there already.

I don't know where all the grounds are. I haven't touched any ground wires though
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Old October 9th, 2015, 09:04 AM   #10
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Bad batteries have caused some strange issues. Personally I wouldn't trust the tester. Id just buy a new battery. I've fouled plugs before trying to get a bike to start.

Have you done anything to the ignition where the 100ohm resistance wouldnt be sent, stopping the bike from starting?
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Old October 9th, 2015, 10:43 PM   #11
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This is what went bad.
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Old October 9th, 2015, 11:05 PM   #12
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This is what went bad.
What?
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Old October 9th, 2015, 11:08 PM   #13
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Burnt ignition wires. That's what it is.I swap out that for a new one and now my ninja 250 won't start.
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Old October 10th, 2015, 01:24 AM   #14
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Burnt ignition wires. That's what it is.I swap out that for a new one and now my ninja 250 won't start.
Did you swap out the ignition switch itself? Did you use an OEM one? If not you need to add a 100 ohm resistor

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_to_...gnition_switch
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Old October 10th, 2015, 09:20 AM   #15
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Did you swap out the ignition switch itself? Did you use an OEM one? If not you need to add a 100 ohm resistor

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_to_...gnition_switch
I bought one from ebay. it's not factory. I didn't know that i needed to add a 100 ohms resister.

that small brown strip thingy right?

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Old October 10th, 2015, 09:21 AM   #16
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It looks like it goes from the brown wire and gray wire
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Old October 10th, 2015, 09:30 AM   #17
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Perhaps this will help, and yes you need to add the resistor to the gray wire that goes to the ignition module.

Kawasaki did this to prevent HOT WIRING the bike, until you add the resistor, it won't start, and it's probably your problem, once fixed the ignition module will work again.

Next stop for you is Radio Shack.
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Old October 10th, 2015, 09:46 AM   #18
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Perhaps this will help, and yes you need to add the resistor to the gray wire that goes to the ignition module.

Kawasaki did this to prevent HOT WIRING the bike, until you add the resistor, it won't start, and it's probably your problem, once fixed the ignition module will work again.

Next stop for you is Radio Shack.
thanks for the tip. I'll head out and get a 100ohms resistor

this is the new one by the way.

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Old October 10th, 2015, 01:39 PM   #19
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OK got it.

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Old October 10th, 2015, 01:42 PM   #20
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Now I just need to soder one end to the yellow wire and the other to the brown?
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Old October 10th, 2015, 01:44 PM   #21
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Perhaps this will help, and yes you need to add the resistor to the gray wire that goes to the ignition module.

Kawasaki did this to prevent HOT WIRING the bike, until you add the resistor, it won't start, and it's probably your problem, once fixed the ignition module will work again.

Next stop for you is Radio Shack.
The resister is only on the gray line shown on the diagram something not looking right for me.
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Old October 10th, 2015, 02:10 PM   #22
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Could you post a picture, it might help.
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Old October 10th, 2015, 02:12 PM   #23
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Could you post a picture, it might help.
Sorry pictures of what? I'll try my best to take some. I really want to get my bike up and running.
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Old October 10th, 2015, 02:18 PM   #24
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I was talking about the diagram you posted when you said next stop is radio shack.
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Old October 11th, 2015, 04:42 AM   #25
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The gray wire supplies the CDI with power, so yes add the resistor to the gray wire only.

If you have a multi-meter you can verify that when the key is turned to RUN position that the gray wire has power at the CDI connection.
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Old October 11th, 2015, 04:50 AM   #26
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The gray wire supplies the CDI with power, so yes add the resistor to the gray wire only.

If you have a multi-meter you can verify that when the key is turned to RUN position that the gray wire has power at the CDI connection.
What about the other end of the 100ohms resister? Do I just ground that?
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Old October 11th, 2015, 05:38 AM   #27
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What about the other end of the 100ohms resister? Do I just ground that?
No, install the resistor inline with the wire, splice it in.

Like this, ignore the text in the picture, pay attention to the picture itself
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Old October 11th, 2015, 05:54 AM   #28
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No, install the resistor inline with the wire, splice it in.

Like this, ignore the text in the picture, pay attention to the picture itself
OK, but it kinda looks weird for me. It just so much smaller then the wire.



Is ther a way I can do it so that it looks like oem?

Apart of me feels like the brown and the gray have the resistor between them.
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Old October 11th, 2015, 06:00 AM   #29
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OK, but it kinda looks weird for me. It just so much smaller then the wire.



Is ther a way I can do it so that it looks like oem?

Apart of me feels like the brown and the gray have the resistor between them.
A 100ohm resistor is small, the above picture was just an example of how to install it.

The gray wire supplies power/triggers to the CDI, but it needs a bit less, hence the resistor, this helps eliminate the chances of hot wiring.
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Old October 11th, 2015, 06:02 AM   #30
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A 100ohm resistor is small, the above picture was just an example of how to install it.

The gray wire supplies power/triggers to the CDI, but it needs a bit less, hence the resistor, this helps eliminate the chances of hot wiring.
Damn ok. I don't like cutting wires. OK thanks will keep you updated
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Old October 11th, 2015, 06:11 AM   #31
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Quote:
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A 100ohm resistor is small, the above picture was just an example of how to install it.

The gray wire supplies power/triggers to the CDI, but it needs a bit less, hence the resistor, this helps eliminate the chances of hot wiring.
Damn ok. I don't like cutting wires. OK thanks will keep you updated
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Old October 12th, 2015, 09:39 AM   #32
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Old October 12th, 2015, 09:46 AM   #33
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Ghost, you're a saint!
Yeah I just want to say thank to him. So many noob questions and he was cool about it.

I'll update soon when I pUT the 100ohms resister on.
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Old November 1st, 2015, 02:01 PM   #34
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All good at this point?
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Old November 3rd, 2015, 07:54 PM   #35
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All good at this point?
I haven't had a chance to try it out. I solder the 100ohms on but as I was trying to put it back on I pulled the part that goes into the bottom of the key, and the **** broke off. A few metal pieces fell out.
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Old November 5th, 2015, 06:45 PM   #36
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100 ohmmm

This NOOB found that resistor while tearing apart my harness to use on my kart . The kaw service manual is garbage and kaw service people around here are as stupid as illinois politicians. Go to ninja250.org for a real GOOD wiring diagram. I'm still learning my way around this site , and not sure how to search threads yet.
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Old November 6th, 2015, 09:47 AM   #37
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Uhhhhh. Ok...
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Old November 6th, 2015, 09:50 AM   #38
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New update. I ended up buying a oem ignition harness off a used 04 ninja 250. It's on its way here so I hope that would work. Need to at least run by next week so I can take it to get new gas to put in hibernation.
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Old November 17th, 2015, 10:28 AM   #39
GeekyReese
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Whats the latest on this? Did you get her running again?
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Old April 1st, 2017, 04:29 PM   #40
Mhancock309
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I know this is an old post but I have exactly the same issue. I just ordered a resistor. Hopefully it works! I will let you know when I have it installed.
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