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Old May 24th, 2014, 09:26 AM   #1
CZroe
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Precautions to take when starting an engine that has been sitting for years?

When I finally get these motors and frames together and am ready to start them, what precautions should I take? I know that I should change the oil, but I imagine that there would be nearly no residual oil in the top end by now and it would likely need to be lubed manually.

Do I just take the valve cover off and lubricate as per the service manual's valve adjustment instructions? IIRC, it suggested some kind of "assembly lube" that I think serves that purpose. Alternatively, can I just dump some oil all in the top end or should I just change the oil normally and hope it gets up there before damage is done?
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Old May 24th, 2014, 10:07 AM   #2
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It good to rotate the engine manually, just to verify that all turns freely. One problem that many have run into is that multi-plate motorcycle clutches can get stuck from sitting. It's as if they the friction plates and driven plates are glued together. Folks have various techniques for freeing a stuck clutch, I prefer disassembly.

For pre-oiling you can spin the engine with the starter with the spark plugs out. This will deliver oil throughout the engine. You should see the oil pressure light go out after a few seconds of this.
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Old May 24th, 2014, 10:20 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by CZroe View Post
........I imagine that there would be nearly no residual oil in the top end by now and it would likely need to be lubed manually.......
The oil pump is positive displacement type, which means that will make oil flow through the whole system at any rotational speed.

If you rotate the engine enough times, by hand or with the starter (don't crank longer than 15 seconds each time and let the motor cool down), there is no need to dissemble the top.

As you know, the engine should be hand rotated with a tool inserted through the alternator cover access plug and always in the normal direction of rotation.

I would also dissemble, clean and lubricate the CCT and add some drops of oil to the top of the pistons through the spark plugs hole.

A flat screwdriver inserted through the oil-filler port can separate the clutch discs, if you are careful and do it all around one rotation of the clutch.
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Old May 24th, 2014, 11:15 AM   #4
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I found that just use will separate the clutch disks. Mine were sticking when I purchased my bike. And I would just push the bike down my driveway before engaging first. After some time on it, it no longer sticks.
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Old May 24th, 2014, 08:21 PM   #5
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I would also dissemble, clean and lubricate the CCT
What is this?

OP, A little squirt of oil in the cylinder and fresh oil and filter in the sump and you're good to go.
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Old May 24th, 2014, 08:32 PM   #6
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What is this?

OP, A little squirt of oil in the cylinder and fresh oil and filter in the sump and you're good to go.
Cam Chain Tensioner. Both sounds like solid advice to me. Thanks!
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Old May 25th, 2014, 04:32 AM   #7
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Cam Chain Tensioner.
OK Thanks.

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Old May 25th, 2014, 04:47 PM   #8
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Gunked carbs are usually the big problem with long standing engines. Presumably you have stripped them and cleaned the idle passages. the other worry is if it was last stopped cold is water (just a trickle from combustion) in a cylinder rusting up the rings and making a circular bore scar. If it turned over without being stuck that is a good sign.
Agree with the plugs out and spin suggestion
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