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Old November 25th, 2014, 03:46 PM   #1
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Cool Just Got new Rearsets

Hey Guys,

Probably should have asked this before I forked out the cash, but has anyone got experience with these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111497175541

I have just ordered some online and they look the goods however I'm hoping to get some info from anyone that may have had them.
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Old November 25th, 2014, 06:37 PM   #2
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should do fine till you crash, but most rearsets get trashed in crashes anyways.
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Old November 25th, 2014, 06:45 PM   #3
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should do fine till you crash, but most rearsets get trashed in crashes anyways.
Hmmmm.... yes, however that has not been the case I have seen. And I have seen more than my share of crashes.

@ the OP, here is some real talk.

Each crash is different, some trash the rearsets, others.... just trash the bold anchors and other crashes just mess up the shifter or brake lever. Kinda hard to tell and ymmv depending on the crash.

Since your ordering parts, you might want to spring for a spare or two of the common breakpoints. Levers, pegs and bolts to attach the rearset to the frame. Past that... your much better off getting woodcraft or vortext. Why? Because someone in the paddock or online may have a spare for cheaper costs. If in the paddock and you need a spare, the bikes running woodcraft rearsets are more common and you can get by with something that someone may have extra laying around. If buying for home, major name brands are more common and such.... or you can get replacement pegs and bars for < $20 + shipping and your rolling again.

I honestly hate buying into the majority, but it does have it's advantages when push comes to shove.

Feel me?
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Old November 25th, 2014, 06:53 PM   #4
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Material: 6061 T-6 billet aluminum, stainless steel hardware, double sealed bearing

Finish: CNC machined, anodized

Color:BLACK

Application: KAWASAKI Ninja250R 2008-2012

CNC machined from billet aluminium and anodized for long lasting wear.

Track & street proven Strong & Light weight design from feedback of pro racers and street riders.

Knurled foot pegs provide good feel and good grip during turns.


Fully adjustable to allow more comfortable or aggressive riding position.

Double stainless steel ball bearings on both the shift and brake levers for positive action.

Build-in bracket for your OEM rear brake light switch.

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what more do you need to know? try searching the company to find more information about them. they will do fine.
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Old November 25th, 2014, 07:25 PM   #5
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Hmmmm.... yes, however that has not been the case I have seen. And I have seen more than my share of crashes.

@ the OP, here is some real talk.

Each crash is different, some trash the rearsets, others.... just trash the bold anchors and other crashes just mess up the shifter or brake lever. Kinda hard to tell and ymmv depending on the crash.

Since your ordering parts, you might want to spring for a spare or two of the common breakpoints. Levers, pegs and bolts to attach the rearset to the frame. Past that... your much better off getting woodcraft or vortext. Why? Because someone in the paddock or online may have a spare for cheaper costs. If in the paddock and you need a spare, the bikes running woodcraft rearsets are more common and you can get by with something that someone may have extra laying around. If buying for home, major name brands are more common and such.... or you can get replacement pegs and bars for < $20 + shipping and your rolling again.

I honestly hate buying into the majority, but it does have it's advantages when push comes to shove.

Feel me?
Even though you can buy 2 of his ebay rearsets for the price of a woodcraft one...
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Old November 25th, 2014, 07:43 PM   #6
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Agreed, I aint saying nuttin' about that though, that is why I said get some spares.

All I am saying is, when you need a peg/lever to save your track day that cost $185 bucks or go home, stuff starts to make sense.
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Old November 25th, 2014, 10:09 PM   #7
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The reason not to buy into the majority and get woodcrafts is that here in Aus, most riders who ride in the 250 cup are running Bonamici (at $500 a pop) I ain't spending half my bike value, as I needed a set that could be used on track and road, as I mainly ride the HP4 on the track as the ninja is my daily, but on occasion I feel like taking the Ninja out, particularly when I'm with my friends who all ride 250 cc and 125cc bikes
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Old November 26th, 2014, 08:42 AM   #8
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I mainly ride the HP4 on the track
You own an HP4? Money should be no object to you then! lol
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Old November 27th, 2014, 12:58 AM   #9
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You own an HP4? Money should be no object to you then! lol
Yes, it's not that its an object, I just cant justify spending that sort of money on a bike that is mainly for commuting and occasionally for the odd spirited ride so really I'm already being an idiot but these were too good of a deal
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Old November 27th, 2014, 05:56 AM   #10
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Yes, it's not that its an object, I just cant justify spending that sort of money on a bike that is mainly for commuting and occasionally for the odd spirited ride so really I'm already being an idiot but these were too good of a deal
Sorry, I tried giving you. Thumbup and landed up giving you a down instead...
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Old November 27th, 2014, 06:07 AM   #11
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I did as Chris suggested when I bought the vortex and bought a spare peg. My Christmas list includes other spare parts.

Please let us know how they perform. They look really nice
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Old November 27th, 2014, 06:57 AM   #12
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Sorry, I tried giving you. Thumbup and landed up giving you a down instead...
I avenged him
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Old November 27th, 2014, 03:25 PM   #13
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Haha, I will definitely let you guys know how they go. so far from what I can tell they are pretty much a stock fit, no need for pressure switch and all that ****. I'm also keen to see how they perform in the twisties.

Might do a DIY for them, if I can be bothered. I'm super lazy when it comes with taking pictures while I install cause all I want is my new parts on the bike
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Old December 6th, 2014, 01:33 AM   #14
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Put them on last night, there was a little bit of fiddling to do with them as the brake light switch wouldnt activate in original position and I think this mod will create issues should I do a braided line conversion, as they pull the line tighter. But Ill be getting the lines done custom as is, so just more money to spend :/
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Old December 6th, 2014, 07:56 AM   #15
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Yes, it's not that its an object, I just cant justify spending that sort of money on a bike that is mainly for commuting and occasionally for the odd spirited ride so really I'm already being an idiot but these were too good of a deal
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Put them on last night, there was a little bit of fiddling to do with them as the brake light switch wouldnt activate in original position and I think this mod will create issues should I do a braided line conversion, as they pull the line tighter. But Ill be getting the lines done custom as is, so just more money to spend :/
so much for not justifying spending the money. I am assuming you mean from the resivoir to the master cylinder, you can just trim the rubber tubing down to size.
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Old December 6th, 2014, 09:15 AM   #16
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^^^ I am thinking the same thing.
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Old December 9th, 2014, 05:53 PM   #17
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Yea, trim them i Tell you, I installed them and didnt trim initially until after a ride i found the line rubbing against the tyre and millimeters from a hole in my line, so fixed that, my biggest issue is that I just wanted to ride the damn thing
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Old December 11th, 2014, 07:14 AM   #18
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They look good... I shoulda found them bonariccis or whatever Vortex makes a sweet product though
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Old December 12th, 2014, 04:28 PM   #19
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Bonamicci's are great, but I find these better, only thing, if you buy these, make sure to use plenty of blue Loc Tite to hold them in.
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Old December 12th, 2014, 04:38 PM   #20
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Pics on the bike?
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Old December 18th, 2014, 06:19 AM   #21
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Can these be lowered? I want rearsets, but more so to be able to lower them. Completely clueless, if any rearsets have a lower foot peg setting...

Edit: Judging by the back side, you can. But how much lower is that, than stock?
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Old December 18th, 2014, 11:26 AM   #22
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Question

Couple question I have about rear sets. I have been wanting to get some, just don't have the cash flow for it yet, but first off do they make your leg room better or worse for a taller, long legged person? I feel like my knee's are in my throat when I ride. Second, are handlebar clip-ons neccessary to get the full effect from them?
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Old December 18th, 2014, 11:50 AM   #23
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Couple question I have about rear sets. I have been wanting to get some, just don't have the cash flow for it yet, but first off do they make your leg room better or worse for a taller, long legged person? I feel like my knee's are in my throat when I ride. Second, are handlebar clip-ons neccessary to get the full effect from them?
Aftermarket racing rearsets are designed to move your foot position up and back, increasing cornering clearance and rotating your body position forward. Clipons continue the body rotation - both shifting weight forward and lowering your body position.

If you want more legroom, you will need offset pegs (Buell part) or an adapter plate that would drop the original control brackets (reaersets) down.
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Old December 18th, 2014, 12:50 PM   #24
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a taller seat helps leg room too
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Old December 18th, 2014, 12:58 PM   #25
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Pics on the bike?


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Old December 18th, 2014, 01:04 PM   #26
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Couple question I have about rear sets. I have been wanting to get some, just don't have the cash flow for it yet, but first off do they make your leg room better or worse for a taller, long legged person? I feel like my knee's are in my throat when I ride. Second, are handlebar clip-ons neccessary to get the full effect from them?
Let me send you in a direction with a more refined purpose.

Find the spot on the tank where you like to grip with your knees. That is your anchor spot that all ergos are based on. Going up and back WILL measure longer if you get out the tape. So yea, most aftermarket rearsets can yield more "knee to foot" room, but will make the ergo more aggressive, ie more forward. Getting rearsets that lower the foot is also a great option if you need more room and want to preserve the standard ergos.

Do you need clipons with rearsets? No, they are independant per your needs as the rider.

Hope that helps!
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Old December 18th, 2014, 01:07 PM   #27
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Aftermarket racing rearsets are designed to move your foot position up and back, increasing cornering clearance and rotating your body position forward. Clipons continue the body rotation - both shifting weight forward and lowering your body position.

If you want more legroom, you will need offset pegs (Buell part) or an adapter plate that would drop the original control brackets (reaersets) down.
Thank you, didn't know that there were other sets or adapters out there to bring my legs down. Only problem I would see is my foot hitting either the exhaust or possibly the ground in a tight turn. I am definitely not scraping knee on my turns commuting to work, but there are a few corners where I do get fairly low. Still have about 3/4 of an inch chicken strips so I know I am not leaning as much as I could. anyone have experience with bringing their pegs down for more leg room?
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Old December 18th, 2014, 01:09 PM   #28
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Let me send you in a direction with a more refined purpose.

Find the spot on the tank where you like to grip with your knees. That is your anchor spot that all ergos are based on. Going up and back WILL measure longer if you get out the tape. So yea, most aftermarket rearsets can yield more "knee to foot" room, but will make the ergo more aggressive, ie more forward. Getting rearsets that lower the foot is also a great option if you need more room and want to preserve the standard ergos.

Do you need clipons with rearsets? No, they are independant per your needs as the rider.

Hope that helps!
This helps as well. My knees do ride high on the tank, and not down on the black moulding panel where they should be. Also when I do need to lean all the way forward my knees are in my chest and my old ass hips start to burn from being in such a tight fetal position.
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Old December 18th, 2014, 01:12 PM   #29
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I would like to see an example of how someone made the offset pegs work. I just googled them and still trying to wrap head around how they would be installed
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Old December 18th, 2014, 01:28 PM   #30
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Here's a thread on the subject of lower peg position - https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...set+buell+pegs
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Old December 18th, 2014, 01:58 PM   #31
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Here's a thread on the subject of lower peg position - https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...set+buell+pegs
perfect man, guess I wasn't googling on the site with the right words
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Old December 18th, 2014, 02:03 PM   #32
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oh, and sorry @Enrgkid for highjacking your thread
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Old December 18th, 2014, 04:23 PM   #33
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No worries man, don't even worry
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Old December 30th, 2014, 08:52 AM   #34
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Thank you, didn't know that there were other sets or adapters out there to bring my legs down. Only problem I would see is my foot hitting either the exhaust or possibly the ground in a tight turn. I am definitely not scraping knee on my turns commuting to work, but there are a few corners where I do get fairly low. Still have about 3/4 of an inch chicken strips so I know I am not leaning as much as I could. anyone have experience with bringing their pegs down for more leg room?
I have a set of woodcraft clipons for the 250r and a set of the Yoshimura rearset adapters (also for 250r) for sale if you're interested....
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Old December 30th, 2014, 05:15 PM   #35
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I will post pics soon. Just have to put the heel guards on as they didn't send the bolts for them
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