DIY SS Brake Lines and EBC HH pads

[fsilva_mcl]

hey, just wondering if you ever got your front brakes sorted out?

[ninja250]

Yes actually, they feel perfect and the front line is perfect length and the pads are very grippy. Lever is hard. Feels good.
Specially on a brand new freshly broken in rotor.

I did add woodcraft rearsets now too and may need to have a new line length made up for the rear, however.
It's not creased but could be a bit shorter, or longer depending how you like to mount it.

[fsilva_mcl]

sweet, good to hear, what kind of rotors did you get, and how come you got new ones?

[ninja250]

Stock rotor in front replaced.
Crashed.
A big 6' tall weed next to the rail I crashed into got tangled in the rotor and bent it.

you might want to upgrade your tires and front suspension with these brakes too, btw.
they work very well and are more sensitive than stock, so they'll break your stock tires free very easily. The suspension comes into play too somewhere I think while braking.

[headshrink]

I see a MAJOR technical problem here. It isn't on my bike! Great pics too BTW.

Seriously though, have you noticed ANY down sides to this mod? I am primarily asking about the front, as I don't see a need for the rear on my bike since it doesn't take much to lock the rear up.... although this became a rare occurrence after my first year.
I'm also interested in hearing more about the suspension too... can you say more about that?
I'm currently on my 2nd set off pads, which are the Gaffer HH, IIRC. I had ordered the EBC HH, but last summer they were on backorder for basically the whole summer, so I had to order the Gaffers because my bike couldn't put it off any longer. I have been happy with them, and believe I do feel a difference over stock, but I THOUGHT I had read back then that the EBC were considered a little better, which is why I originally ordered them. I'll eventually get to try it out, since the EBCs eventually came and are sitting in my parts bin. I guess you didn't need the wordy background to set-up my next question, but I am curious about the rotor wear with the EBC pads. I know it is too early for you to know with this set, but let us know how it goes.

Thanks for the DIY, and I hope you consider putting up a wiki version of it in the Ninjette Wiki section!

[ninja250]

Originally Posted by headshrink

have you noticed ANY down sides to this mod? I am primarily asking about the front, as I don't see a need for the rear on my bike since it doesn't take much to lock the rear up.... although this became a rare occurrence after my first year.
I'm also interested in hearing more about the suspension too... can you say more about that?

but I am curious about the rotor wear with the EBC pads. I know it is too early for you to know with this set, but let us know how it goes.

Thanks for the DIY, and I hope you consider putting up a wiki version of it in the Ninjette Wiki section!

I noticed that you need to be more careful with your bike when you add racing components too it. Learn how they all work together. Upgrading your brakes is a good idea if you and your bike know how to handle it. That's the only downside.

I have heard many stories of how this bike has a mushy front end in the stock form. Also depending on your weight. That is, until you change fork oil viscosity, fork oil height and springs and valve emulators and whatever else they stuff in there to get your setup right. It's tough using the upgraded front brake on a mushy front end..

In short, The forks setup may or may not be up to race performance brakes in their stock form, nor possibly the tires. It might even all depend on your riding technique as well. Lots of variables. Just be careful and test everything and double test it.. then take it out to the open or track and learn the limits of it.

If you add racing brakes make sure you know how to use them in all situations.

[fsilva_mcl]

Just got my EBC FA197HH pads in th mail and it looks like mine are also reversed... :S

[ninja250]

doh!
Hang in there. They love this trick.
they want to make sure and spend their shipping money twice and be completely uneconomical.
Somebody needs to dig up a stash of good ones and sell them to the forums.

[Guinss]

I also got the reverse pads. I actually ordered the wrong type from a shop here in Norway, so i was gonna ask if i could trade them for the correct ones, but then i saw they did not sell them. And neither did anyone else. They would not fit, so i cut of the "claw" of the one pad with a saw and then they fit perfectly. Of course there is a reason for having that extra support mount("claw"), but, what the hell, they worked flawlessly for 1000miles already.

Great DIY. One question, would these brakelines be an upgrade on the 250r? They say it's "steel braided". No idea what the stock front line is.
http://mc-deler.com/utstyr.asp?C=H_2...&Mi=MCD-679701
Or do they have to have the "metal-look". Having trouble translating the stuff into what Norwegian shops sell.

[jonthechron]

You guys have to stop using crappy photo-bucket, if you need FREE lifetime picture web hosting, just PM me and I will upload them to my FTP.

[Alex]

Or just put 'em here. Albums, or linked right within posts.

[g21-30]

Originally Posted by Guinss

Great DIY. One question, would these brakelines be an upgrade on the 250r? They say it's "steel braided". No idea what the stock front line is.

Yes, they would be an upgrade and a very good one!! Stock is hard rubber. Of course, you will have to bleed the brakes, but that's easy.

[binlagin]

Originally Posted by jonthechron

You guys have to stop using crappy photo-bucket, if you need FREE lifetime picture web hosting, just PM me and I will upload them to my FTP.

He took the photo's down after throwing a tantrum.

It was a sad act.

[HorizonXP]

Just threw on a set of Galfer brake lines, front and rear. Replaced the rear pads with EBC organics, front still has meat so waiting to put the HH pads on the front.

I bled the brake lines, and tested them out. They felt great, really straightforward to controllably lock the rear, or progressively brake, and the front feels as good as before, if not better.

The bleeding was actually really straightforward and easy. I'm thinking maybe when I throw on the front pads, I'll do a quick bleed again just to be sure.

But is there anything I should keep in mind before I hit the road tomorrow? I'm thinking about waking up early and doing some parking lot emergency braking before I head to work, just to make sure they're good. Honestly though, they feel fine. I'm just paranoid because things went a lot smoother than expected.

[dave hendy]

How do we get to see the photo's that aren't there any more. I am having trouble with my new HEL rear line which seems too short

Or could you email me some photo's?

Dave

[seldom]

Could you reupload the pics. Thankd

[Zombiphone]

Originally Posted by dave hendy

How do we get to see the photo's that aren't there any more. I am having trouble with my new HEL rear line which seems too short

Or could you email me some photo's?

Dave

Originally Posted by seldom

Could you reupload the pics. Thankd

........

Originally Posted by binlagin

He took the photo's down after throwing a tantrum.

It was a sad act.

^This. You're gonna have to try to figure it out with just the text, or maybe use This DIY (Assuming the brake system hasn't really changed much from the pre-gen to the '08+?) as I don't see those pictures ever coming back

[headshrink]

I just installed mine.....

I haven't had the chance to test ride it yet, but as I bled, and bled, and bled, and bled the brake line (only did the front), I saw bubbles in the bleed line every time I opened the nipple. Yes, I never let the brake fluid go all the way down in the reservoir. On the stands I didn't find an obvious problem, like not being able to stop, but I'm a little apprehensive about what will happen on the road.

[seldom]

Are you doing it correctly by holding the lever down until you close off the bleeder valve? If there are air in your line you should keep bleeding until it's gone or maybe change to a different brake fluid don't forget to use dot 4 fluid.

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by seldom

Are you doing it correctly by holding the lever down until you close off the bleeder valve? If there are air in your line you should keep bleeding until it's gone or maybe change to a different brake fluid don't forget to use dot 4 fluid.

I wonder if I am.... I wasn't holding the lever will closing the nipple. I was using a suction pump, and there was flow through the tube when I shut the nipple. Is this basically the same thing, or will that make a difference?

I'm using DOT4.

[seldom]

I've never used a suction pump before and I use a cheapo brake fluid bleeder kit. By the sound of your technique, because your not holding the lever down until you closed off the nipple, the air is getting back it. Mybe try bleeding again using the technique I suggested. Don't risk your life by riding your mc that has bad brakes or hasn't been bled properly. If your not sure look up youtube or go to a mechanic.