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Old October 22nd, 2022, 11:11 PM   #1
Gundamned_
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Name: Lewis
Location: Central Ohio
Join Date: Sep 2022

Motorcycle(s): 2002 Kawasaki EX250F Yellow/Purple

Posts: 5
First time bike owner, crank with no start on 02 250

It's late at night so I can't post photos for now, but hello! a couple months ago I bought an EX250F with my brother from a guy who had it from his son who bought it from a guy who bought it from a girl who we think worked at a medical campus from the parking sticker on it. Anyways, we changed the oil and filter on it, then removed the top rear end of the bike to remove the air box and carburetors, then the fuel tank because it was full of 6 year old gasoline.

While my brother worked on disassembling and cleaning then rebuilding the carbs, I cleaned out the fuel tank with almost 4 gallons of evaporust, and letting it sit for probably about 2 weeks in various positions. I then drained it, washed it with a couple quarts of gasoline, drained that, then washed again, drained that, then again before wiping it down, putting a brand new petcock in it, and putting about 2 gallons of 87 octane gasoline. On the side panel I later read that the recommended fuel is 91 so I'll be buying some later (especially since I'm totally out of fuel in all my spare containers).

We just finished reassembling the carburetors today, and while my brother thinks we cleaned everything out all the way, I'm still a little iffy, especially since the engine doesn't turn over. I'm not hearing anything pops (however I've never worked on a bike before so I have no reference) but the oil pressure light did turn off after about 5 minutes of cranking over the period of half an hour. Probably 5-15 seconds of cranking each time. Not sure if fuel is going through the carbs at all or if the fact that thr airbox doesn't fit right anymore onto the carbs is an issue, but it's a total pain to get the box out when Kawasaki designed it to be wider than the top of the frame. Seriously, it's so dumb that I have to remove the entire rear wheel and fender and whatever just to take out the airbox. I've been told using pod air filters can cause problems so I'm not looking forward if I have to use that for some reason.

We're gonna try to figure something out tomorrow, but if anyone has any advice, I would very much appreciate it.
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Old October 23rd, 2022, 10:34 AM   #2
CZroe
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Name: J.Emmett Turner
Location: Newnan, GA
Join Date: Apr 2009

Motorcycle(s): '08 CP Blue EX250J, '97 unpainted EX250F, 2nd '97 unpainted EX250F (no engine), '07 black EX250F

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Cut the battery box off the airbox. It has its own mounting tabs allowing you to mount normally and remove it whenever you want to make room t9 access the carbs. Just remove the battery box and push the airbox backwards to access the carbs. You can do this with a hack saw.

The RON number doesn’t actually translate directly to octane. 87 octane is fine! Wish I could help with the rest.
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Old October 23rd, 2022, 11:13 AM   #3
DannoXYZ
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MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
Hi Lewis and welcome!

91 RON on sticker is roughly same as 87 R+M/2 you find at pumps. I only need use 91 on my track bike with higher 13.5:1 compression along with more ignition-advance.

No need to remove airbox to pull carbs: https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...&postcount=126 . I pull carbs 2x a day at track to optimise mixtures for cooler morning air vs hotter afternoon air.

Couple things to test:

1. cam-timing and valve-clearances. Adjust to looser end of range, they tighten up with wear

2.verify spark. Pull plug wire and insert spare plug. Ground case of plug to valve-cover and crank. Do you see spark? What colour is it?

3. test fuel. Use squirt bottle and spray 2-3cc petrol into airbox after air-filtre. Wait 30-sec, then crank engine. Does it run?
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Old October 23rd, 2022, 09:39 PM   #4
Gundamned_
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Name: Lewis
Location: Central Ohio
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Thanks for the tips, once I have more time later this week I'll try all of these. If that doesn't work im gonna guess my carb needs a full refurb or something. Unless it's the cam timing, then I don't know what I'm gonna do since I'm not looking forward to stripping the bike down even more. It's only got 8.3k miles on it so im hoping nothing's been changed on it, like I saw someone else on the fourm have a previous owner put longer spark plugs in theirs and punch holes through the pistons.
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Old October 24th, 2022, 12:23 AM   #5
DannoXYZ
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MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
You certainly did good job cleaning out tank. Along with new petcock, we can assume petrol at least makes it to carbs. Let's re-arrange order for fastest results.

1. verify spark. Pull plug wire and insert spare plug. Ground case of plug to valve-cover and crank. Do you see spark? What colour is it?

2. test fuel. Use squirt bottle and spray 2-3cc petrol into airbox after air-filtre. Wait 30-sec, then crank engine. Does it run?

3. compression-test. with good numbers, you can skip next step

4. cam-timing and valve-clearances. Adjust to looser end of range, they tighten up with wear


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Old October 24th, 2022, 03:18 PM   #6
Gundamned_
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Name: Lewis
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I was able to verify both spark plugs are correct and are giving spark, I'll try spraying some gasoline into the airbox tomorrow when I have more time (and more spare fuel). I don't know how to test the compression or timing, I'm guessing I'll need to buy a gauge for the compression later.
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Old October 24th, 2022, 10:54 PM   #7
Gundamned_
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Name: Lewis
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Another update, I probably won't get back to this for a few days because of homework, but I'm remembering now when I took the main fuel line off of the carburetor, nothing came out of the tube, it was fully dry. I also forgot to put the original inline filter back into the tube, so I'll have to find that again and put it on. Could that be a vacuum issue? Since we figured out that the petcock won't drip fuel until the vacuum line is activated.
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Old November 4th, 2022, 03:23 PM   #8
Gundamned_
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Name: Lewis
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Motorcycle(s): 2002 Kawasaki EX250F Yellow/Purple

Posts: 5
Well, the fuel inlet thingy on the carburetor is broken, and the original inline filter no longer fits inside after we used gorrilla glue to reseal it. I found some brass inlet replacements online that should work, is the tube that goes in about 8mm?
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