Wheel question!

[BlownWideOpen]

Hi everyone,

I purchased a 4.5 inch rim a while back, and it's getting warm enough to where I want to get it all together to put on. The wheel is BARE! Nothing on it. My question is, what can I re-use from my old wheel, and what should I buy new? I'd assume wheel bearing is a given, but I'm unsure on the rest.

Thanks in advance!

[cuong-nutz]

You could get away with reusing everything but you're just better off with new seals.

[BlownWideOpen]

Well, bike has 15000km on them. Not sure if that matters for normal wear type stuff like bearings. I was thinking about getting an All Balls kit, thoughts?

More input would be appreciated.

[subxero]

+1 on what Cuong said

Once you get everything apart you can do a quick inspection on the bearings, if they are well greased, no play, no rust then they are good to go!

Replace seals as they will typically get a little boogered up removing them.

Does the cush drive swap or does the new rim come with a cush drive?

I use all ballz kits a good bit for my dirtbikes, nothing bad to say about them but the life expectancy of bearings on my dirty bikes are not very long so take it for what you will

[BlownWideOpen]

Originally Posted by subxero

+1 on what Cuong said

Once you get everything apart you can do a quick inspection on the bearings, if they are well greased, no play, no rust then they are good to go!

Replace seals as they will typically get a little boogered up removing them.

Does the cush drive swap or does the new rim come with a cush drive?

I use all ballz kits a good bit for my dirtbikes, nothing bad to say about them but the life expectancy of bearings on my dirty bikes are not very long so take it for what you will

The cush drive swaps. This wheel literally came with nothing lol. I'll do all that for sure then. Any idea where seals can be purchased on their own? Thank you!

[rc racer]

The all balls wheel bearing kits usually include new seals.

[subxero]

you can get seals straight off any OEM Kawasaki parts website. just go to the rear wheel diagram or drive diagram one of the two and see how much they charge for seals, if they are expensive + shipping then it might pay to just get a bearing seal, kit


http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oe...ar-wheel-chain

looks like ~$9.50 for 1 seal, x 2 $19 that's pretty steep. Bearing + seal kit will probably be $20-$30 at most

well so much for buying just seals

[DmbShn41]

I recommend running Kawasaki part numbers through Amazon...find a great many of OEM and aftermarket items on there, for next to nothing compared to retail pricing. Plus, group a couple of items together to meet the $35 or whatever amount and shipping is free.

[BlownWideOpen]

Originally Posted by DmbShn41

I recommend running Kawasaki part numbers through Amazon...find a great many of OEM and aftermarket items on there, for next to nothing compared to retail pricing. Plus, group a couple of items together to meet the $35 or whatever amount and shipping is free.

Great advice, thanks!

[InvisiBill]

http://www.kawasaki.com/Parts/PartsD.../2012/EX250JCF

Get the All Balls bearings/seals kit ($16 on Amazon, you might consider doing the front too) and spend the $12 on an extra of the spacer collar that goes between them inside the wheel. Otherwise, you'll need to remove the old wheel and pull the bearings to get to the collar for the new wheel. If you buy a spare collar, you can install the new bearings in the new wheel without taking anything off the bike.

Due to the bike's low mileage, I wasn't going to bother installing the third bearing in the kit into the cush drive, but I noticed that the OEM bearing was open, so I put in the AB sealed one.

For me, it was worth a few bucks to buy new parts that I could install ahead of time, rather than having to swap stuff over after tearing apart my functional bike. And on a bike with more miles, you also won't know what condition those parts are in until you get in there. You'll probably need the bearings in for tire balancing too (one more thing that can only be done while your bike is down if you're swapping all the parts over).



If you install the bearings/collar in the new wheel ahead of time, you can basically just pull the axle out, drop the wheel, remove the brake disc, pop the cush drive/sprocket out, replace its bearing, and put everything back together in reverse order.

[spc2125]

Not to threadjack,

But I am going to powder coat my wheels this spring and was looking at what I would need to do besides bringing the wheel to the shop (disassembly wise)...

Once take the wheel off, i believe there is a spacer on each side of the wheel (2 front + 2 in rear). Then there are 3 bearings in the rear and 2 in the front.

I found the links to the all balls racing kit on amazon to replace the bearings

all balls wheel bearing and seal kit 25-1444 (front)
all balls wheel bearing and seal kit 25-1234 (rear)
Total = $24.64 + free shipping

Is there anything else that needs to be replaced?

[BlownWideOpen]

Originally Posted by InvisiBill

http://www.kawasaki.com/Parts/PartsD.../2012/EX250JCF

Get the All Balls bearings/seals kit ($16 on Amazon, you might consider doing the front too) and spend the $12 on an extra of the spacer collar that goes between them inside the wheel. Otherwise, you'll need to remove the old wheel and pull the bearings to get to the collar for the new wheel. If you buy a spare collar, you can install the new bearings in the new wheel without taking anything off the bike.

Due to the bike's low mileage, I wasn't going to bother installing the third bearing in the kit into the cush drive, but I noticed that the OEM bearing was open, so I put in the AB sealed one.

For me, it was worth a few bucks to buy new parts that I could install ahead of time, rather than having to swap stuff over after tearing apart my functional bike. And on a bike with more miles, you also won't know what condition those parts are in until you get in there. You'll probably need the bearings in for tire balancing too (one more thing that can only be done while your bike is down if you're swapping all the parts over).

If you install the bearings/collar in the new wheel ahead of time, you can basically just pull the axle out, drop the wheel, remove the brake disc, pop the cush drive/sprocket out, replace its bearing, and put everything back together in reverse order.

The collar is all I'll need? What about the sleeve? Or is the sleeve not involved in anything internal?

Either way, I ordered the AB kit. But shipping sucked, so I paid a lot more than yourself. Either way. Need to get this done asap!

Edit: Also, I believe it was you who was having trouble finding valve stems that would fit your wheels. What did you end up with? I haven't even checked what type mine needs, I am hoping the more conventional one.

[InvisiBill]

Originally Posted by BlownWideOpen

The collar is all I'll need? What about the sleeve? Or is the sleeve not involved in anything internal?

Either way, I ordered the AB kit. But shipping sucked, so I paid a lot more than yourself. Either way. Need to get this done asap!

Edit: Also, I believe it was you who was having trouble finding valve stems that would fit your wheels. What did you end up with? I haven't even checked what type mine needs, I am hoping the more conventional one.

If you're talking about 42036-1055 from the diagram, that's just a little spacer thingy that sits between the sprocket carrier/cush drive and the wheel. The collar is actually inserted between the bearings and held in place by them - there's no way to remove/install it without first removing at least one of the bearings.

Originally Posted by InvisiBill

@willi777 (the other guy who put these on an EX500) mentioned there being different standards between "Japanese" and "European" wheels, and it looks like that item's description confirms that. These Vrossi wheels seem to use the smaller 8mm style (just barely bigger than the threaded part of the schrader valve). I think this particular dealer only sells Japanese bikes, so that might explain why they only have the 10mm/.453" stems on hand. Dealers with a larger variety might have both styles available.

Originally Posted by InvisiBill

Wow, what a fustercluck... I took them to the cheaper (only 3/4 the price) place, which is actually a Kawasaki dealer. They put the new tires on my Vulcan wheels a few years ago, and recently moved into a nice new building so I wanted to check it out. As I already mentioned, at first they only had the larger pull-through stems, but found some 8mm ones eventually.

Well, the inside of the wheel has a slight V to it (more noticeable on the wider rear wheel). They said they got the stem in, but couldn't get it to sit flat on the angled surface of the inside of the wheel, meaning it would never hold air.

I took the wheels and tires to the more expensive shop I called first, and explained the issues that the first shop had run into. They took the rear wheel in the back and said they'd have no problem doing it. They actually seemed a bit confused at how the first shop had so much trouble with it. Their balancing machine also uses spacers, so the only thing they need is for the wheel to have the bearings installed (not the rotor, like at the first shop). I guess it's worth an extra $11 per wheel if they can actually do it right.

To sum all that up, these are slightly different from stock, but a decent shop shouldn't really have any problem setting them up. If it seems like a huge ordeal, that's probably a sign that you're at the wrong shop.

It was nothing but problems at the first shop, even with me helping them find info. The second shop was a few bucks more, but I basically just said "Put these tires on these wheels" and they did, quickly and correctly. I freaked out a little when one of the tires wasn't holding air, but it turned out to just be a loose core in the stem. I've had no problems with them in the past year.

[BlownWideOpen]

Originally Posted by InvisiBill

If you're talking about 42036-1055 from the diagram, that's just a little spacer thingy that sits between the sprocket carrier/cush drive and the wheel. The collar is actually inserted between the bearings and held in place by them - there's no way to remove/install it without first removing at least one of the bearings.






It was nothing but problems at the first shop, even with me helping them find info. The second shop was a few bucks more, but I basically just said "Put these tires on these wheels" and they did, quickly and correctly. I freaked out a little when one of the tires wasn't holding air, but it turned out to just be a loose core in the stem. I've had no problems with them in the past year.

Yes, 42036-1055 was the sleeve I was asking about. Seems like the part you're talking about is 42032-063 which is listed as "COLLAR,RR AXLE,L=13"

I just want to get everything together so I can drop it off at a shop to have it all correctly installed and balanced.

Since this is my first time doing this, I'd imagine I'd have to send them the sprocket and brake disc as well? Not entirely sure on that one. Sorry for the noobiness.

[ROB654]

where did you get that wheel?

[InvisiBill]

Originally Posted by BlownWideOpen

Yes, 42036-1055 was the sleeve I was asking about. Seems like the part you're talking about is 42032-063 which is listed as "COLLAR,RR AXLE,L=13"

I just want to get everything together so I can drop it off at a shop to have it all correctly installed and balanced.

Since this is my first time doing this, I'd imagine I'd have to send them the sprocket and brake disc as well? Not entirely sure on that one. Sorry for the noobiness.

42032-063 (92152-0843 in the 2012 diagram I linked above) is just the spacer between the swingarm and sprocket carrier.

92143-1416 COLLAR,RR HUB,L=111

It's basically just a metal tube that the axle goes through between the bearings. Here's the OEM part and the cheap version that came with my wheels.


The first shop told me I needed to have the rotor installed (which would've been a big pain, since I was planning to just swap the stock rear rotor over), but the second shop did it with nothing more than the bearings installed in the wheels (and the collar between them, as a prerequisite for installing the bearings). So it seems to depend on what balancing machine the shop has. If you already have the bike apart, it's not a big deal either way, but if you're trying to get the new wheel ready to go before tearing into the bike, just call the shop and ask what they need.

[BlownWideOpen]

Originally Posted by ROB654

where did you get that wheel?

I personally went through Sportisi USA, who were sold out at the time. I searched high and low though, until Sportisi USA agreed to get a single one from Indonesia for me.

[BlownWideOpen]

Originally Posted by InvisiBill

42032-063 (92152-0843 in the 2012 diagram I linked above) is just the spacer between the swingarm and sprocket carrier.

92143-1416 COLLAR,RR HUB,L=111

It's basically just a metal tube that the axle goes through between the bearings. Here's the OEM part and the cheap version that came with my wheels.

The first shop told me I needed to have the rotor installed (which would've been a big pain, since I was planning to just swap the stock rear rotor over), but the second shop did it with nothing more than the bearings installed in the wheels (and the collar between them, as a prerequisite for installing the bearings). So it seems to depend on what balancing machine the shop has. If you already have the bike apart, it's not a big deal either way, but if you're trying to get the new wheel ready to go before tearing into the bike, just call the shop and ask what they need.

Bill, you've been a great help. Ordered the piece today from a local Kawi dealer for $15. Going to call them back and see what they'd need to balance the wheel once the tire is installed. Because I'd ideally like to have it all pop in.

[spc2125]

Thread revival because search button

Is there a way to remove rear wheel without having to replace seals or anything? I'm just trying to remove the old plastidip from last season.

Thanks

[RacinNinja]

Originally Posted by spc2125

Thread revival because search button

Is there a way to remove rear wheel without having to replace seals or anything? I'm just trying to remove the old plastidip from last season.

Thanks

You don't have to replace seals or bearings to remove the rear wheel. Just pull the axle out and remove it.

[choneofakind]

Unless you have the tools to blind pull a cartridge bearing by the outer race, buy new bearings. Any bearing you pound the inside race of is garbage. You pit the races with the balls, making flat spots and pits. They will then wear.


Edit: oooops. Dates just woke up, sorry

[spc2125]

Originally Posted by RacinNinja

You don't have to replace seals or bearings to remove the rear wheel. Just pull the axle out and remove it.

How about the front wheel?

And when would it be required to replace the seals? I.e. when you are taking everything off the wheel... like the rotor.

[RacinNinja]

Originally Posted by spc2125

How about the front wheel?

And when would it be required to replace the seals? I.e. when you are taking everything off the wheel... like the rotor.

Same thing. Remove the axle and pop the wheel out.

Replace the seals and bearings when they are worn out or damaged.

[spc2125]

Is there anywhere to put jack / jack stands as opposed to a motorcycle stand when I remove the rear or front wheel?

[choneofakind]

Bottom of the engine. Take a block of wood, drill a 1" hole with a spade bit so the block of wood sits flat around the filter bolt, then cautiously jack the front wheel up by the engine. The engine is a structural member of the bike.

[spc2125]

Question... when putting the rear wheel back, does the caliper have a certain position that it needs to be in? For example, It looks like there is a thick groove on the bike and it looks to perfectly fit into the open groove on the caliper bracket. I'll try and get a picture later but when I reassembled the wheel, the caliper was sliding back and forth and wasn't grabbing. But then I noticed it probably has to go back into that "groove" so it locks in place but then I wasnt able to put the wheel back on.

#noobproblems