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Old October 4th, 2011, 12:55 PM   #1
crazyjayp
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bike wouldn't start this morning :(

06 ninja here - im new to motorcycles, only been riding for 2 months or so.


anyways, went to start my bike this morning, as i usually do. Put choke on, fire it up, then try to dial down the choke so it idles around 3k. (full choke it idles between 4-5k) It fired up fine, but stalled when i took the choke off too much. (this isnt unusual, usually i can just fire it right back up if i need to)

But it wouldn't turn the engine over again. if i hit the starter, the dash lights would go out, it would "click" once, then after about 15seconds, the lights would come back on again. Im thinking i have a weak battery.

I did a quick volt meter test, its at 12.4v. But i didn't test the amps in my haste this morning.

I also got the idea maybe i could coast start it down my driveway. If my bikes in neutral, i can coast down the driveway ok, but if i put it into first, i couldnt push it fast enough to do anything. I figured if i tried too much more of this, id end up dropping it, and be worse off than i already was. So i stopped.

I basically have 3 questions:

1) does it sound like a battery issue to you guys as well?

2) is it normal for the choke to be so sensitive? 1/8th of an inch is all the difference between idling at 4-5k and stalling out. (note this is while its cold. once warm it runs fine without choke.)

3) is there supposed to be that much friction while in 1st with the bike off and the clutch engaged?

sucks that i am "wasting" a perfectly good day to ride today...not too many left in illinois this year.
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Old October 4th, 2011, 06:09 PM   #2
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After some more testing after work, does seem to be the battery. Volts go to 0 when I hit the starter.

Advanced can't get it here till friday, so looks like im on 4 wheels till then...
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Old October 4th, 2011, 06:25 PM   #3
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It very well might be the battery, but also make sure that the battery cables are securely screwed on to the terminals. A loose cable can make it behave as you describe (starting once, working intermittently, etc.) To bump-start a bike, it's usually better to be in 2nd gear rather than 1st. You need to get the bike up to a decent running clip, and drop the clutch while in gear. The hard part with kawi's is the positive neutral finder won't let the transmission shift to 2nd unless the drivetrain is moving fast enough.
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Old October 4th, 2011, 11:50 PM   #4
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I'm not sure if it's the same with motorcycle batteries, but 12 volt car batteries usually put out closer to 13.6 volts. in which case 12.4 would be low. Like alex says, you want to bump start in second or else you're just going to drag the rear tire. You'll have to get it rolling to upshift though, as it won't do it while parked. (I learned this the hard way.)

Though, bumpstarting won't be the answer if the battery is dead. It's not like a car that can run without a battery. These bikes need to have a charged battery to run correctly at all, not just for starting.
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Old October 5th, 2011, 03:05 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CynicalC View Post
Though, bumpstarting won't be the answer if the battery is dead. It's not like a car that can run without a battery. These bikes need to have a charged battery to run correctly at all, not just for starting.
How so? It's pretty much just like a car in this respect, and even a bit better as there isn't an electric fuel pump on our carbed versions. If the battery is completely and utterly dead, there might be issues getting the bike going. But it can be mostly dead, have nowhere near enough energy to start the motor, but the motor will run fine for years and years once bumpstarted.
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Old October 5th, 2011, 04:54 AM   #6
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From the other site, on the subject of bump starting -

Quote:
Just remember that if your battery is completely toast all the starting attempts you can try won't keep it running. You do have to have a functioning battery in the bike in order for it to keep running. If it's just run down and not truly dead, though, this method should be able to get you going again.
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Why your bike needs a battery

While many cars can be driven a long way on a dead battery, you need a functioning battery on your bike to keep riding. Without one it will just up and quit on you. "Newer" motorcycles have solid-state electronic ignition systems, which are somewhat sensitive to variances in supply voltage. In fairly easy-to-understand terms, there are a lot of "troughs" in the AC waveform going into the regulator/rectifier, meaning that the DC coming out of the R/R will not be a nice flat line, but rather a stream of pulses. This must then be "smoothed out", and that is where the battery comes into play. It provides stabilization in the electrical system, as a capacitor would in a linear power supply design.
When I first got my bike, the battery was truly dead and would not run at all even after bump starting. After replacing the battery, fired right up. He might have better luck since his battery is "less dead" but with a voltage of 12.4, it's probably on its way out.
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Old October 5th, 2011, 05:50 AM   #7
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Mine did exactly what you're describing a few weeks ago. Turned out to be that one of the battery cables were loose like Alex said.

Everything appeared fine until i hit the starter and it just clicked once and went to nothing. Tightened the cable up and she worked like a charm. Good luck.
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Old October 5th, 2011, 09:46 AM   #8
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I think it's a matter of weak vs. dead. Completely dead, perhaps may be issues. But I've ridden home with people with batteries in awful condition, not enough to start the bike, yet running is just fine. Some of them continued to bumpstart the bike for weeks.
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Old October 5th, 2011, 09:46 AM   #9
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I did check the cables, wiggled, loosened and tightened again.

I think the telling thing was when i hit the starter, the batt volts went to 0 on the voltmeter.

If i read correctly in another forum, the batt should still hold 10volts or so, even while starting.

But we shall see on friday, when advanced gets the battery.
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Old October 13th, 2011, 07:16 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyjayp View Post
I did check the cables, wiggled, loosened and tightened again.

I think the telling thing was when i hit the starter, the batt volts went to 0 on the voltmeter.

If i read correctly in another forum, the batt should still hold 10volts or so, even while starting.

But we shall see on friday, when advanced gets the battery.
The correct voltage on a charged 12V lead acid battery is 12.7 volts. While the bike is running, the battery voltage will increase to 14-15 volts while charging. You are correct, the battery should not drop below 10 volts while starting.

You have a weak battery. The headlight should come on after a starting attempt. You can judge a lot by the intensity of the light.

It could also be the bike's charging circuit, but unlikely. I suggest you examine all your fuses to make sure they are OK. Bad things can happen if you try to jump it from a running car. Its perfectly OK to jump it with another 12V battery or car battery as long as the car isn't running.

Lastly, I suggest you order a Yuasa battery online and use that. They are far better than anything Advanced sells. With the Advanced battery, figure on needing a new one in about a year or less.
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Old October 13th, 2011, 08:19 PM   #11
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FWIW, though not fuel injected the bike does have electronic ignition. The CDI module likely will need at least 8-9 volts to be able to trigger the coils, and even then with that low voltage the coil spark voltage will be relatively low. Also, if the battery is shorted inside the extra load on the alternator may cause problems as well.
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Old October 25th, 2011, 10:36 AM   #12
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so jay did you solve the issue yet?

i just solved mine where the battery terminals werent screwed on tight enough.
also, about six months ago, the stock battery needed to be replaced cause it wasnt holding charge anymore. it was the same symptoms as you describe here.
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Old October 25th, 2011, 11:18 AM   #13
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yes. i went ahead and replaced the battery. starts up great now.


idle is a bit screwy untill warmed up, not sure how to describe it
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Old October 25th, 2011, 11:20 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyjayp View Post
idle is a bit screwy untill warmed up, not sure how to describe it
"cold engine" might be the proper description
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Old October 25th, 2011, 11:25 AM   #15
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"cold engine" might be the proper description

yea, until i learn more, i'm chalking it up to someone that's new to a carbureted engine
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Old October 25th, 2011, 12:18 PM   #16
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EFI engines don't work very well when cold either.
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