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Old April 3rd, 2017, 06:22 PM   #1
Bluberryrain
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Chain broke on highway

Well...Today was a ****** day guys.

Was doing 75-80 MPH on the freeway today, and I started to feel a wonky feeling coming from the rear tire- almost like a flat.

I looked over my shoulder, and the tire was not flat. I started to slow down and looked over my shoulder again, and saw something fly off my bike. Within seconds, all the power cut from the engine (revs maxed out) and I felt the chain come off the bike. I immediately pulled in the clutch and braked onto the shoulder and shut the bike off.


Here's the aftermath of the rear:

http://imgur.com/a/inzqV


I'm still working on getting the front sprocket cover off, but from what I can tell- it looks to be mostly OK in there, just the cover is chewed up.

What do you guys think? Looks like the swing arm is bent. Ugh


Here's the aftermath of the front:

http://imgur.com/a/RSBtd

Looks like the damage is mostly on the back. There is a nick/scratch taken out of the block, but it appears to be superficial.

My biggest problem is the swingarm, I think..

Last futzed with by Bluberryrain; April 5th, 2017 at 08:27 AM. Reason: Adding pics of front sproket. 4/5 - Adding full album. Somehow I didn't do this :p
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Old April 3rd, 2017, 07:19 PM   #2
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I see no damage to the swingarm; just need to replace the tensioner and its cap.

This advice comes late, but it may save your skin the next time:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=133019

The chain looks extremely dry and tight.
The front sprocket is due for retirement.

You were very lucky, my friend !!!
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Old April 3rd, 2017, 08:11 PM   #3
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On my last chain several of the rollers fell off while going down the highway and I thought I got lucky but my friend you truly got lucky that the rear wheel didn't lock up on ya.
Glad to see your ok.
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Old April 3rd, 2017, 08:30 PM   #4
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Nick, go out and buy a few lotto tickets. It could've been nasty had the chain got stuck and locked the rear tire while you were doing 75.

Your swingarm will most likely need to be replaced. It looks pretty bent to me. While you're swapping that out, double check the rear wheel to make sure it's still true and straight in case the chain somehow damaged it.
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Old April 3rd, 2017, 09:15 PM   #5
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From the photos, the chain and sprockets should have been replaced long ago. The rollers and rear sprocket are shiny, showing lack of lube, and the chain has the kinked look of one that's in bad shape. I'm glad you're OK. O-ring chains are not no-maintenance chains!
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Old April 3rd, 2017, 10:08 PM   #6
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glad you ok though
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Old April 3rd, 2017, 10:44 PM   #7
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Man that's freaky! Final drive maintenance can be tricky and/or tedious but once you figure it all out and get into a routine, it's not so bad. If you REALLY don't like it, consider a scottoiler or similar system, but remember you've still gotta check the slack and all that stuff. If THAT bothers you, get a shaft-driven bike (I personally have a huge boner for viragos).
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Old April 3rd, 2017, 11:12 PM   #8
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Quote:
I see no damage to the swingarm; just need to replace the tensioner and its cap.

This advice comes late, but it may save your skin the next time:
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=133019

The chain looks extremely dry and tight.
The front sprocket is due for retirement.

You were very lucky, my friend !!!
Hernan!! I was hoping you'd drop in and grace me with a few nuggets of your priceless info Glad to hear from you. I looked at the swingarm again after I got the bike up on the stands, and I believe you're correct. It seems to be bent at the same angle as the other side- just some scratches where the chain acted like a chainsaw. Although, a replacement is like 40 bucks on ebay- so I still may consider this. Thanks for the article! Very good information posted there.

The thing is- I did service/lube up the chain about 3-4 weeks ago, but maybe I didn't do a good enough job, or use the proper product. Or, maybe the chain was just so far gone- it didn't matter.

I will definitely be replacing both sprockets, the tensioner and the chain.


Quote:
On my last chain several of the rollers fell off while going down the highway and I thought I got lucky but my friend you truly got lucky that the rear wheel didn't lock up on ya.
Glad to see your ok.

Quote:
Nick, go out and buy a few lotto tickets. It could've been nasty had the chain got stuck and locked the rear tire while you were doing 75.

Your swingarm will most likely need to be replaced. It looks pretty bent to me. While you're swapping that out, double check the rear wheel to make sure it's still true and straight in case the chain somehow damaged it.


Quote:
From the photos, the chain and sprockets should have been replaced long ago. The rollers and rear sprocket are shiny, showing lack of lube, and the chain has the kinked look of one that's in bad shape. I'm glad you're OK. O-ring chains are not no-maintenance chains!
Yes, I agree. I examined the chain after I got the bike home and up on stands. The chain practically exploded in 3 or 4 spots. The chain does not flow freely like it should. It's very stiff.


Quote:
glad you ok though
Quote:
Man that's freaky! Final drive maintenance can be tricky and/or tedious but once you figure it all out and get into a routine, it's not so bad. If you REALLY don't like it, consider a scottoiler or similar system, but remember you've still gotta check the slack and all that stuff. If THAT bothers you, get a shaft-driven bike (I personally have a huge boner for viragos).

Thank you for all of your well wishes guys- means a lot! Yes, I agree that I'm absolutely lucky here. I have no ****ing idea how the rear wheel didn't lock up on me, and I'm so happy it didn't. I was wearing full gear (as always) but hitting the ground that fast in a lot of traffic would have likely ended very badly for me. I've definitely learned my lesson here. This is a mistake that will NOT be repeated, and let this be a PSA to anyone reading this thread:

DON'T TEST YOUR LUCK like me.


Luckily, I've prepared myself as much as I could for these types of situations, so there were no panic reactions to make things worse for me.
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Old April 3rd, 2017, 11:34 PM   #9
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By the way - any recommendations on new chain + sprockets?

Was thinking of going with this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EX250R-Ninja...1X9rPe&vxp=mtr

There are certainly some cheaper options on ebay, but I want to make sure I'm not getting some POS kit.
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Old April 4th, 2017, 06:54 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluberryrain View Post
By the way - any recommendations on new chain + sprockets?
There are lots of good ones to choose from. I'm partial to RK chain and JT sprockets, for good quality and reasonable cost.

Yes, chains can lock the rear wheel. They can also wad up at the front sprocket and do major damage to the transmission case.

I think I'll go lube my chain.
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Old April 4th, 2017, 09:29 AM   #11
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Wow... awesome luck you got there. Happy this is just a repair story.
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Old April 4th, 2017, 09:52 AM   #12
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I'm glad it's just some damage to the bike, as much as that sucks. At least you didn't get hurt.
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Old April 4th, 2017, 10:12 AM   #13
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By the way - any recommendations on new chain + sprockets?
As long as youre replacing it, might as well upgrade. I have used this kit twice with good results:

https://www.speedmotoco.com/415-CHAI...50300ninja.htm
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Old April 4th, 2017, 10:32 AM   #14
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At 18,000 miles, I replaced my OEM chain with this RK Racing Chain 520-SO-106 106-Links O-Ring Chain with Connecting Link on Amazon for $56 in June 2016 It looks like the price dropped slightly since then.

So far so good with the chain. I have put about 8,000 miles on the chain since then it it seems to still be in great shape.

The next time the chain needs replacement, I'll swap the front and rear sprockets as well.

Best of luck to you.
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Old April 4th, 2017, 12:23 PM   #15
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I can also vouch for RK
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Old April 4th, 2017, 03:16 PM   #16
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At 18,000 miles, I replaced my OEM chain with this RK Racing Chain 520-SO-106 106-Links O-Ring Chain with Connecting Link on Amazon for $56 in June 2016 It looks like the price dropped slightly since then.

So far so good with the chain. I have put about 8,000 miles on the chain since then it it seems to still be in great shape.

The next time the chain needs replacement, I'll swap the front and rear sprockets as well.

Best of luck to you.
Thanks, Cadd.

I went ahead and bought that chain, along with JT Sprockets front 15 and rear 45, as well as a new tensioner. Parts should be here by Friday.

Also going to get one of those chain oiling tools in the link Hernan posted above.
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Old April 4th, 2017, 03:51 PM   #17
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You should probably read about Scottoilers before you invest in one, to be sure you understand what it is, and its pros and cons.
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Old April 4th, 2017, 05:06 PM   #18
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You should probably read about Scottoilers before you invest in one, to be sure you understand what it is, and its pros and cons.
Sorry, I actually meant the GreaseNinja.
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Old April 4th, 2017, 05:44 PM   #19
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Gotcha. I hadn't seen that before. It might be a nice way to not have to make a cardboard shield to keep the overspray off my wheel and tire every time I use my Maxima Chain Wax.
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Old April 5th, 2017, 08:30 AM   #20
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Uploaded a few more pics of the front- I realized I didn't post the whole album, just one picture.

I'll take a few more of the chain tonight, so you can see how many places it failed in.
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Old April 8th, 2017, 08:01 PM   #21
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So, I got all my parts today:

-Front Sprocket
-Rear Sprocket
-Chain
-Axle Adjusters/Chain Tensioner

However, couple things:

1.) RK O-ring chain only came with a clip master link. Am I OK to use the clip and safety wire it, or should I really order a rivet style master link & a rivet chain tool? I'm thinking safety wire should be OK, especially with regular maintenance.

2.) The rear wheel hub bolts/nuts are pretty chewed up from the chain spinning around the rear sprocket like a chainsaw. I'm not sure if I'll be able to get the nuts back on, after replacing the rear sprocket:

http://imgur.com/a/QbZ0j

I may be able to use a file/sandpaper to smooth the end of the bolts out, however it's more probable that they are toast. That leaves me having to buy a new rear wheel bearing hub. The good-ish news is, they are relatively inexpensive on eBay. ~ $15.00 - $40.00 give or take.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/08-12-KAWASA...hUGb30&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/08-12-KAWASA...p=mtr#viTabs_0


Does anyone have any experience with this job? I surfed the DIY section, and I don't see any that are relevant. I also checked the service manual, and there appears to be a brief section at 10-17, 10-18, which basically sends you all over the service manual.

Has anyone replaced this? How difficult is it?

Edit:

I've also considered just redoing the threads with a die?
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Old April 8th, 2017, 10:07 PM   #22
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Quote:
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1.) RK O-ring chain only came with a clip master link. Am I OK to use the clip and safety wire it, or should I really order a rivet style master link & a rivet chain tool? I'm thinking safety wire should be OK, especially with regular maintenance. [/url]
A friend made this video. I've done it this way since then, if I bother doing anything extra:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlTMKMk2CIo
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Old April 9th, 2017, 07:15 AM   #23
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..........I may be able to use a file/sandpaper to smooth the end of the bolts out, however it's more probable that they are toast.........

I've also considered just redoing the threads with a die?
I would smooth those ends of the bolts and any dented flat of the hexagonal shape of the nuts with a good file.

The areas that really do the work (threads of the nuts, washer-like surface of the nuts and threads of the bolts that are inside the nuts) are intact.

The filing is for protecting the threads of the nuts while unscrewing them.
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Old April 9th, 2017, 10:48 AM   #24
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A friend made this video. I've done it this way since then, if I bother doing anything extra:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlTMKMk2CIo
Thanks for the video! I think I'll use that method. Haha your friend says:

I'll tell you, losing a chain on the freeway once is enough! 

....That it is.


Quote:
I would smooth those ends of the bolts and any dented flat of the hexagonal shape of the nuts with a good file.

The areas that really do the work (threads of the nuts, washer-like surface of the nuts and threads of the bolts that are inside the nuts) are intact.

The filing is for protecting the threads of the nuts while unscrewing them.
Cool, thanks for the reassurance Hernan! That is what I will do.
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Old April 9th, 2017, 04:23 PM   #25
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I would smooth those ends of the bolts and any dented flat of the hexagonal shape of the nuts with a good file.

The areas that really do the work (threads of the nuts, washer-like surface of the nuts and threads of the bolts that are inside the nuts) are intact.

The filing is for protecting the threads of the nuts while unscrewing them.
Hey Hernan,

Is the hub supposed to wiggle like this?

https://youtu.be/ACeBaCA6MGc


Edit: looks like it's normal?
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=176731
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Old April 9th, 2017, 06:43 PM   #26
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Hey Hernan,

Is the hub supposed to wiggle like this?

https://youtu.be/ACeBaCA6MGc


Edit: looks like it's normal?
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=176731
You could pull the sprocket out of the wheel.
The shaft presses all the bearings and separators together and eliminates that movement.
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Old April 9th, 2017, 06:55 PM   #27
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I purchased a set of wheels from someone who had dropped a chain and chewed up the studs on the cush drive just like you. I ran a die on them to clean the threads and installed new nuts, havent had a problem with them yet. Theyre M10 coarse thread if i remember correctly.
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Old April 9th, 2017, 09:52 PM   #28
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Well boys (and girls too),

She's back together!! We'll see how she goes tomorrow
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Old April 10th, 2017, 08:52 AM   #29
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I just used the clip master link as-is, without any adhesive. I do clean and lube my chain once every 500 miles (about once a week). I personally feel comfortable with that inspection interval for using a clip type master link.
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Old April 10th, 2017, 07:56 PM   #30
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I dare say the bike is fixed & runs even better than before!

Acceleration is smooth, shifting is smooth, and I love the new gearing. I'm happy I decided to go with the 15/45 combo. Feels like the acceleration is spread out across all the gears, and the extra get-up-and-go in the top end is very much welcomed.
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Old April 10th, 2017, 08:56 PM   #31
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Excellent!
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Old April 11th, 2017, 02:27 PM   #32
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Keep an eye on that clip.
Even better, post a picture of it when you can.
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Old April 11th, 2017, 07:14 PM   #33
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Keep an eye on that clip.
Even better, post a picture of it when you can.
Here you are, Hernan.

https://imgur.com/a/IGrBC
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Old April 11th, 2017, 07:25 PM   #34
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Here you are, Hernan.

https://imgur.com/a/IGrBC
The clip looks good, the chain and O-rings look dangerously dry.
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Old April 11th, 2017, 07:44 PM   #35
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Good job with the adhesive, Nick.
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Old April 11th, 2017, 08:16 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Motofool View Post
The clip looks good, the chain and O-rings look dangerously dry.
They are getting lubed up tonight . The chain came with a bunch of clear thick grease on it. Almost the consistency of vasoline. Figured it wouldn't last on there, and would wear off in a few days. I've got some chain lube at home, and will be applying it on there before tomorrow morning's ride to work. Promise Hernan.

This is what I have:

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....SR160,160_.jpg

Quote:
Good job with the adhesive, Nick.
Thanks, Jim! I managed to find the exact same stuff your buddy used in his video. It worked really well!
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Old April 11th, 2017, 08:51 PM   #37
Triple Jim
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You can't go wrong with PJ1, but it's really gooey and will build up quite a mess under the front sprocket cover. I've been using Maxima Chain Wax lately, and it seems to be a little less messy, but see what you think about the PJ1.

The label used to say "contains synthetic sperm oil" in the '70s.
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Old April 11th, 2017, 09:22 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triple Jim View Post
You can't go wrong with PJ1, but it's really gooey and will build up quite a mess under the front sprocket cover. I've been using Maxima Chain Wax lately, and it seems to be a little less messy, but see what you think about the PJ1.

The label used to say "contains synthetic sperm oil" in the '70s.
Yeah, I noticed that after I just got done putting it on- my god I can see why it used to say that!!
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Old April 12th, 2017, 05:48 AM   #39
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The chain I replaced came with thick clear grease as well. It was really thick (about the same consistency as foam air filter lube or vasoline). I knew if I installed the chain as-is, it'll pick up so much grime. So, I degreased it and applied my own chain lube (I use DuPont).
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