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Old March 4th, 2015, 09:06 PM   #1
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Finally hit the highway, need help

I finally got a little comfortable on the highway so I practiced getting on and off a few times.

Here is where I need some direction. I have read and heard that the 250 is capable of doing highway speeds. For some reason unknown to me, it kinda gets a low burpy tone instead of the high whiney sound and it has trouble hitting 60 or it just will stay stuck at 55, I tuck in, chest on tank and still it feels like its hauling a train or something ...sometimes.

On flat street where the speed limit is much lower than 60, I can easily hit 60 mph with no problems. I don't weigh over 130 lbs. Could it be that the carbs just need some cleaning? Could it be that it has a hard time riding on incline? On decline highway it had the same problem. I also noticed the rpms wont go past 9k on any gear.
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Old March 4th, 2015, 09:16 PM   #2
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With me at 300 pounds there is no issue hitting extralegal speeds. With nothing over 9000 I'm guessing there may some carb issue
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Old March 4th, 2015, 09:44 PM   #3
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Check airbox for blockages... for some reason that sticks in my head as previous fix for same issue here.
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Old March 5th, 2015, 04:42 PM   #4
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I finally got a little comfortable on the highway so I practiced getting on and off a few times.

Here is where I need some direction. I have read and heard that the 250 is capable of doing highway speeds. For some reason unknown to me, it kinda gets a low burpy tone instead of the high whiney sound and it has trouble hitting 60 or it just will stay stuck at 55, I tuck in, chest on tank and still it feels like its hauling a train or something ...sometimes.

On flat street where the speed limit is much lower than 60, I can easily hit 60 mph with no problems. I don't weigh over 130 lbs. Could it be that the carbs just need some cleaning? Could it be that it has a hard time riding on incline? On decline highway it had the same problem. I also noticed the rpms wont go past 9k on any gear.
At 9K rpm you are hitting the max flow of air, exhaust or fuel that each of those systems can supply.
You may have a restriction of flow somewhere.
It is bad if your crabs receive less than 2 c.c. per second.
Does are easier to find than electrical problems.

Weak sparks can do something similar when the pressure and temperature in the combustion chamber are high.
If that is the case, look for bad electrical connections, sparks jumping from the high voltage side or worn or poorly adjusted gaps of spark plugs and pick-up coil.
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Old March 5th, 2015, 05:00 PM   #5
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let me cross a few things off of the list. Do these go here? They have been there since I got the bike. If not, what are some reasons why the previous owner would have put them there. Those pink foam things.
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Old March 5th, 2015, 05:08 PM   #6
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let me cross a few things off of the list. Do these go here? They have been there since I got the bike. If not, what are some reasons why the previous owner would have put them there. Those pink foam things.


You have just found your problem, my friend !!!

The PO is a prankster.
Absolutely nothing goes there:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...lter%28s%29%3F

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Old March 5th, 2015, 05:41 PM   #7
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Old March 5th, 2015, 06:00 PM   #8
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Someone's bike is about to feel like a rocketship in comparison...
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Old March 5th, 2015, 06:08 PM   #9
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Hah, make sure there is an air filter in the box.


But yeah, cheapest horsepower increase ever!
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Old March 5th, 2015, 06:11 PM   #10
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Someone's bike is about to feel like a rocketship in comparison...
I feel like I just got skimped out of my previous 3k miles I have ridden. I think I am going to fall in love with my bike all over again. Too bad I have to wait until the weather gets better. We had one day of lower 70's and today we got a cold front that will last 4 days and after it is over, it is going to rain for another week. Worth the wait though.
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Old March 5th, 2015, 06:13 PM   #11
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You have just found your problem, my friend !!!

The PO is a prankster.
Absolutely nothing goes there:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_...lter%28s%29%3F

One thing I can tell you is that I bought my bike from a motorcycle mechanic, and as you can tell, I am NEVER taking it back to get any kind of repair there. I'm more of a DIY kind of person anyway.The worst thing I found when I first got it was a loose nut that leaked the front brake fluid.
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Old March 5th, 2015, 08:10 PM   #12
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wow... that's hilarious lol

please report back with your findings!!
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Old March 5th, 2015, 08:32 PM   #13
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One thing I can tell you is that I bought my bike from a motorcycle mechanic, and as you can tell, I am NEVER taking it back to get any kind of repair there. I'm more of a DIY kind of person anyway.The worst thing I found when I first got it was a loose nut that leaked the front brake fluid.
With mechanics like him, who needs enemies?

Please, don't forget to report back when you have the first chance to test it.
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Old March 5th, 2015, 08:39 PM   #14
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Holy crap!!!!! Dude



Is that crap just in the openings, or is the entire airbox full of that crap??

Seriously????? 3k miles like that???:

Okay this only makes my statement of when buying a used bike, you need to go thru the entire bike first.

Now go here, and buy this, K&N KA-2586 Kawasaki High Performance Replacement Air Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FGI50G..._mes-ub1ZK2WRR

And seriously it's time to check out the rest of the bike too, at least do it for your safety.
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Old March 5th, 2015, 11:01 PM   #15
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Pipercross filters, IMO, work better than the K&N option.
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Old March 6th, 2015, 12:49 AM   #16
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Hahaha this is the funniest thread ive seen in a long time. And, fwiw, i just use the stock foam filter element. Its $12, works great for miles and miles. And, since youre new at this still and havent thoroughly torn apart your bike yet, maybe just stick with stock for now.
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Old March 6th, 2015, 01:28 AM   #17
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Change the oil and oil filter before you ride it anymore. Hopefully no damage has been done. The bike has been running extremely rich because of what lamehead did. When that happens the unburned fuel gets in the oil and destroys it's ability to lubricate.
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Old March 6th, 2015, 03:21 AM   #18
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ideally it just gets blown out the pipe, but yeah it can cause some issues.

Your plugs are like black as well. I'd pick up a new set of NGK CR8HSA plugs while you're at it. They're only $2.50 a pop
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Old March 6th, 2015, 04:30 AM   #19
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I wonder if the PO put them there in an effort to keep mice out during storage.
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Old March 6th, 2015, 08:34 AM   #20
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It is bad if your crabs receive less than 2 c.c. per second.
Yeah, dem crabs be hungry little beasties....

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Old March 6th, 2015, 01:52 PM   #21
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Yeah, dem crabs be hungry little beasties....
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Old March 6th, 2015, 02:07 PM   #22
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So...which spark plug do I buy?
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Old March 6th, 2015, 02:17 PM   #23
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Your plugs are like black as well. I'd pick up a new set of NGK CR8HSA plugs while you're at it. They're only $2.50 a pop
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Old March 6th, 2015, 02:35 PM   #24
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Right! I overlooked that. I dont have the tool ( spark plug wrench) required for it according to the Ninja 250 Wiki website.


http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Changin...rands_to_avoid

What tool is that? I want to get it on Amazon
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Old March 6th, 2015, 03:12 PM   #25
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5/8" spark plug socket. It's basically a deep well socket with a rubber boot inside. This way you can loosen the spark plug from the threads and the tool captures the plug so when you've cleared the threads, you can lift the tool and plug out together.

be cautious when re-inserting the spark plug to make sure that you have the threads lined up. Aluminum heads are easy to strip threads out of with misaligned spark plugs...
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Old March 6th, 2015, 03:49 PM   #26
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5/8" spark plug socket. It's basically a deep well socket with a rubber boot inside. This way you can loosen the spark plug from the threads and the tool captures the plug so when you've cleared the threads, you can lift the tool and plug out together.

be cautious when re-inserting the spark plug to make sure that you have the threads lined up. Aluminum heads are easy to strip threads out of with misaligned spark plugs...
So this tool, can I buy it at the local auto parts store, or is it a special item? I know that the spark plug is special order item that is about 700 miles away from here.
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Old March 6th, 2015, 04:09 PM   #27
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So this tool, can I buy it at the local auto parts store, or is it a special item? I know that the spark plug is special order item that is about 700 miles away from here.
You not only need a deep wall, but also a thin wall as well. If I remember you just can't use a standard 5/8" spark plug socket, walls are too thick hence the overall O.D. is.

Now if you have access to a bench grinder, then buy a cheap spark plug 5/8" socket, and carefully grind away the outside til it fits into the head.

Or hope you have a friend that has a Kawasaki and borrow his/hers.

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detai...2110-1132.html

Here is listed of other ones that use the same tool.
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Old March 6th, 2015, 04:13 PM   #28
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You not only need a deep wall, but also a thin wall as well. If I remember you just can't use a standard 5/8" spark plug socket, walls are too thick hence the overall O.D. is.

Now if you have access to a bench grinder, then buy a cheap spark plug 5/8" socket, and carefully grind away the outside til it fits into the head.

Or hope you have a friend that has a Kawasaki and borrow his/hers.

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detai...2110-1132.html

Here is listed of other ones that use the same tool.
No, I don't (personally) know anyone who has a motorcycle. If I do know them, they are not really DIY type.

Can I remove the airbox like the way this guy did, but without cutting the battery box? I do not plan to do any cutting to my bike. While I am at it, can I just add those KN filters that he has? or that is a little advanced for me at the moment?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcpEyhiZd74
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Old March 6th, 2015, 04:33 PM   #29
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No, I don't (personally) know anyone who has a motorcycle. If I do know them, they are not really DIY type.

Can I remove the airbox like the way this guy did, but without cutting the battery box? I do not plan to do any cutting to my bike. While I am at it, can I just add those KN filters that he has? or that is a little advanced for me at the moment?
I recommend do nothing more than removing those obstructions to air intake and ride-test.

The spark plug manipulation requires experience besides the proper tools.
It is something that you should not do but at the time of adjusting your valves with the fuel tank removed.

A damaged plug female thread will complicate your life very much.
Trust me, your spark plugs are just fine as your engine was reaching 9K and 60 mph in those blocking intake air conditions.
Any carbon accumulated on the plugs will be burned and exhausted when the engine returns to and keeps normal operational temperature for some miles.

The less you touch your bike, apart from regular recommended maintenance and service, the more problems you may introduce.
Keep everything stock for a while and learn the basic tasks step by step while your arsenal of tools grows naturally.
Just relax and follow this service schedule:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Service_Schedule

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Old March 6th, 2015, 04:36 PM   #30
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So this tool, can I buy it at the local auto parts store, or is it a special item? I know that the spark plug is special order item that is about 700 miles away from here.
I don't know about the pregen, but the new gen, the Kawasaki tool is good if you want to change the plugs without taking off the gas tank.

But when I took off my gas tank, I used my own spark plug tool. I believe it was a 5/8" spark plug socket (with a piece of rubber at the inside to "grab" onto the plug so you can pull it out). http://www.sears.com/tekton-3-8inch-...-SPM2092236603


I also had a 6" socket extension as well. http://www.sears.com/coopertools-3-8...-SPM6279290401

I'm assuming you already have a 3/8" ratchet http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-8-i...p-00943175000P
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Old March 6th, 2015, 04:40 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Ninja Rob View Post
No, I don't (personally) know anyone who has a motorcycle. If I do know them, they are not really DIY type.

Can I remove the airbox like the way this guy did, but without cutting the battery box? I do not plan to do any cutting to my bike. While I am at it, can I just add those KN filters that he has? or that is a little advanced for me at the moment?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcpEyhiZd74
WOW I needed to watch 5 seconds of that, okay really simple DO NOT INSTALL POD FILTERS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I will explain why at the end.

As far as doing the airbox modification, I would highly recommend it, it makes servicing the carburetors a lot easier, and it's no big deal to do, besides you cut it once it's out.

As far as the spark plug tool goes, do you not have the OEM tool kit? If not search eBay and get one, it comes in handy more times than you'll think it will, for sure.


Okay, well this is the explanation part for the pod filters, hope this helps, if not just ask.

BTW where you located at?

Quote:
I would highly recommend that you DO NOT REMOVE THE AIR BOX, the carburetors on the bike are CV type and need to box to function properly, buy a K&N that fits the OEM airbox(K&N KA-2508 Kawasaki High Performance Replacement Air Filter by K&N* *Amazon.com: K&N KA-2508 Kawasaki High Performance Replacement Air Filter: Automotive* ) that's the short version.

Long boring but important answer, CV carbs stands for "constant velocity". The function of the carbs is dependent on having a calm reservoir (airbox) from which to intake air at said constant velocity. Pods draw from the turbulent, unpredictable air swirling past them as you ride, which is anything but constant. Other carbs work fine with pods. CV's = no bueno, save yourself the headaches.

Now onto jetting, first you need to tune the idle mixture screws first, I recommend 3 full turns out from bottom as a good starting point, then fine tune them afterwards. As far as buying a jet kit, I personally don't have one on either my 250, or 500 ninjas. I did got up one size on my main jets, due to they are lean from the factory, and shimmed the main needles with a small washer.
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Old March 6th, 2015, 05:11 PM   #32
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I am located in Brownsville, Texas. The most southern point of the United States right before heading to Mexico. If you are familiar with Space X, they are coming here to build a launch site. Brownsville is not much of a motorcycle friendly city, or knowledgeable motorcycle mechanics either.
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Old March 6th, 2015, 07:14 PM   #33
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I used a regular spark plug tool from autozone with an attached swivel. Works fantastic. the swivel really helps with being able to use a ratchet to unscrew the spark plug. I don't know what exact model it is though.
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Old March 6th, 2015, 07:43 PM   #34
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Check with area P, pods DO make more power in both CV carbs and fuel injection on both the 250 and 300.
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Old March 6th, 2015, 10:12 PM   #35
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Old March 7th, 2015, 12:06 PM   #36
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Solved the pink foam mystery. There is pink foam blocking the air holes because there is NO foam filter in the actual air box. The screen was actually not really dirty. Here are some pics. Going to have to order the filter.
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File Type: jpg CAM01414.jpg (126.0 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg CAM01415.jpg (227.1 KB, 1 views)
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Old March 7th, 2015, 12:16 PM   #37
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@Ninja Rob do yourself and us a favor and please, please go thru the entire bike for your safety sake.
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Old March 7th, 2015, 12:35 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostt View Post
@Ninja Rob do yourself and us a favor and please, please go thru the entire bike for your safety sake.

I have, from when I first bought it until now, what I know so far, it needed brake fluid, throttle closing cable, springs for the seat lock, battery, tightened nuts here and there, change of antifreeze/coolant, air filter (already placed order). It is also missing nuts and bolts here and there. Next up is cleaning carbs on my day off. I paid $1250 for the bike. Although I can complain, I am learning a lot when it comes to repairing/maintenance. When I first bought it, I didn't even know how to turn on the bike. Now I know a lot more. What I will ultimately do is just buy a new bike and post up pics of the new bike (when I do get it) I might get the Honda CBR 500r or the Kawi Ninja 300.

Thank you for all your help, tips, and advice. They have really helped me out a lot.
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Old March 7th, 2015, 02:25 PM   #39
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@Ninja Rob good I'm glad to hear that not only are you learning, but also having fun as well.

Just remember to take your time, don't rush, or work tired.

Good luck with the carburetors, they seem to be the nemesis of some owners. Personally I wouldn't recommend splitting them, unless the fuel rail that connects them is leaking.

Be sure to purchase a quality rebuilding kit, K&L kits are preferred by many, just stay away from the cheap no-name crap kits.

K&L Supply Carburetor Repair Kit 18-2639 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GU7DNG..._962-ub15AE61A



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Old March 13th, 2015, 09:18 AM   #40
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My filter just arrived in the mail. I have synthetic oil left over from my previous oil change, can I use it on the foam filter?
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