Rear sprocket, good or bad?

Verus Cidere · July 20th, 2009, 03:20 PM

I'm planning on getting a rear sprocket replacement soon, and was looking around to see what was available. I found one on Motorcycle-Superstore.com that looks cool and is supposed to be lightweight. My problem with it is, it looks pretty thin in a few places. Is this sprocket really strong enough? I'm planning on getting a 42 tooth.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...50R-Parts.aspx

Alex · July 20th, 2009, 04:28 PM

Interesting. It does look thin to me, but if it's going to survive on any bike, our bike is certainly the one it's going to survive on. I'd see if you can find out how long they've been offering that design, and/or see if you can find someone else who has had one for awhile. I think it probably would be fine, but I also think I'd have the same questions you have right now.

Verus Cidere · July 20th, 2009, 09:41 PM

Good idea........ Except, how am I supposed to find that out? I'm fairly certain they won't tell me who's ordered one from them before!

Alex · July 20th, 2009, 09:56 PM

I'd start with google searches of that particular model number...

bobaab · July 20th, 2009, 11:04 PM

Go with JT Sprockets or Sunstar if you are unsure. Both of those companies have good reputation for good sprockets. I just ordered a 15T front sprocket from JT and new, slightly taller tires (100/90/16)! I can't wait for the revs to come down a bit and my speedo to be more correct at higher speeds...

Verus Cidere · July 21st, 2009, 01:29 AM

Well, I found the main page for this sprocket at Parts-Unlimited.com, and the picture doesn't make it look nearly as thin. It also talks about high grade, hardened steel. It doesn't give a steel grade though (i.e. 1024 carbon steel, etc.). I'll keep looking, but it's what I've found so far.

http://street.parts-unlimited.com/18/346/7981690

Verus Cidere · July 21st, 2009, 01:41 AM

The only other thing I found that I thought had something to do with this was an add for what looks like the same sprocket, but from a different company and for the CBR1000. Here's the link to that (actually a front and rear sprocket + chain package). I don't know if this helps, but it looks like the exact same sprocket and it seems to work for a 1000cc bike, so why not for a 250?

http://www.solomotoparts.com/product...roductid=32789

sombo · July 21st, 2009, 01:46 AM

If you're still unsure about it what about looking into the sunstar sprocket? Looks to be similarly light weight but possibly stronger and close in price.

Sunstar 520 sprocket.

sombo · July 21st, 2009, 01:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Verus Cidere

The only other thing I found that I thought had something to do with this was an add for what looks like the same sprocket, but from a different company and for the CBR1000. Here's the link to that (actually a front and rear sprocket + chain package). I don't know if this helps, but it looks like the exact same sprocket and it seems to work for a 1000cc bike, so why not for a 250?

http://www.solomotoparts.com/product...roductid=32789

You did notice the massive price difference right? I hope you weren't suggesting to get that one instead?

M · July 21st, 2009, 11:21 AM

I've had excellent wear from JT Sprockets over the years, on a variety of cycles. I use the steel ones, as their weight isn't an issue for me and I prefer the increased life from the steel sprockets.

Verus Cidere · July 22nd, 2009, 12:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sombo

You did notice the massive price difference right? I hope you weren't suggesting to get that one instead?

The massive price difference you're talking about is because it's a front sprocket, rear sprocket, and a chain all at once. And no, I'm not using that one. It's for a CBR1000.

Biggest reason I was looking at this sprocket is looks. I really like the way it looks, but if it's going to break on me, I don't want to mess with it. I'll probably go with something else if that's the case.

ninjammin · July 22nd, 2009, 05:14 PM

It may work out fine, but I'd stick with something a little beefier. That's just me though...the weight savings and cool factor are going to have a minimal affect.

ASecretNinja · July 27th, 2009, 02:01 PM

My understanding is that if you're going to change one of the three components (front, rear, or chain) it is best to change all 3 at once. The chain and sprockets all sort of wear into each other, and if you were to just change one of them, you are at risk for more rapid wear to all of the components. This is one reason why you tend to see sprockets and even chains so often sold in complete sets.

Verus Cidere · July 27th, 2009, 02:41 PM

I'm planning on switching all of them out at the same time, along with brake pads and rotors (not sure on the rotors yet), and tires.

ninjammin · July 29th, 2009, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Verus Cidere

I'm planning on switching all of them out at the same time, along with brake pads and rotors (not sure on the rotors yet), and tires.

How many miles do you have on your bike?

Verus Cidere · July 29th, 2009, 05:30 PM

A little over 7300. Probably don't need to replace brakes yet, but they've been feeling kinda weird lately. Also, the front rotor (the one that has been feeling weird) has a strange mark on it. It almost looks like a burn. I'd get pics, but I have to go to work. I'll try and post some tomorrow. Tires need a change because their the stock dunlop pieces of crap, not to mention the tread is almost gone. Sprockets because I want taller gearing, and chain to go with the sprockets.

ninjammin · July 29th, 2009, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Verus Cidere

A little over 7300. Probably don't need to replace brakes yet, but they've been feeling kinda weird lately. Also, the front rotor (the one that has been feeling weird) has a strange mark on it. It almost looks like a burn. I'd get pics, but I have to go to work. I'll try and post some tomorrow. Tires need a change because their the stock dunlop pieces of crap, not to mention the tread is almost gone. Sprockets because I want taller gearing, and chain to go with the sprockets.

Brake replacements depend on how you ride...my fronts lasted until 17,000 because I engine brake alot and travel mostly highway miles. Get some pictures of that rotor, it should last way more than 7 thousand miles barring extreme circumstances. You could also still be ok with the chain unless it's been severely neglected. Check for wear on the rear sprocket and chain, and if they're ok, slap a new CS sprocket on and call it dealt with for now.

Verus Cidere · July 29th, 2009, 11:32 PM

Problem with the chain is, it really hasn't been well taken care of. I'd like to hope that it's ok, but I didn't know how to take care of it until recently, and I have no idea whether the original owners even cleaned it. Figured I'd stick on the safe side and get a new chain and just take care of that one really well, and not risk breaking the one I have even if I am taking care of it now. Nearly all of my riding is in the city... Again, I'll try to get pics of the rotor tomorrow.

ninjammin · July 31st, 2009, 01:29 AM

Sounds like you're on the right track...

Verus Cidere · July 31st, 2009, 02:02 PM

Ok... I got a picture of the rotor. It didn't come out too well though. The area I'm worried about is on the right side of the picture. It's circled in red on the second picture.

rotor.jpg rotor2.jpg

Is that scrape/burn looking mark on the rotor a problem or is it normal?

ROADandTRACK · July 31st, 2009, 03:34 PM

Looks like a warped rotor to me.

ninjammin · July 31st, 2009, 04:52 PM

I honestly can't tell much from the pic...does it feel warped when you brake? i.e. Do feel a pulsing from the front brake when in use?

nate-bama · July 31st, 2009, 08:59 PM

cooked bro

Verus Cidere · July 31st, 2009, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ninjammin

I honestly can't tell much from the pic...does it feel warped when you brake? i.e. Do feel a pulsing from the front brake when in use?

That might be a way to say it. What I do feel, and only when braking at slow speeds, is almost like a rough spot on the caliper. The slightly dark spot I'm talking about is wierd. It feels a bit rougher, and the blackness rubs off a bit. Is it just dirty or is that a sign of a warped rotor? I guess you could say it does pulse some, and it makes a slight scraping sound.

ROADandTRACK · August 1st, 2009, 08:40 AM

You need another rotor.

rockNroll · August 1st, 2009, 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Verus Cidere

Ok... I got a picture of the rotor. It didn't come out too well though. The area I'm worried about is on the right side of the picture. It's circled in red on the second picture.

Attachment 3231 Attachment 3234

Is that scrape/burn looking mark on the rotor a problem or is it normal?

Before you buy a new rotor, take some good soap and scotchbrite (the maroon colored works good) pad to it and see if it cleans up. The most common cause for the rotor discoloration and/or brake pulsation is brake pad material build up. This is also misdiagnosed as "warped rotor" too. Put a little elbow grease into it and see how it turns out.. it's cheap to try

Oh... scotchbrite the entire rotor... not just the discolored area!

ROADandTRACK · August 1st, 2009, 10:53 AM

Ummm, that rotor is no good. Unless you don't really use your front brakes.

rockNroll · August 1st, 2009, 12:46 PM

The rotor will probably clean up and be ok. If he tries it and the dark area "comes off" then he saved some bux.

Verus Cidere · August 1st, 2009, 10:46 PM

Any other opinions? I'll definitely look into cleaning it up before I buy a new one, just to be sure. If I do end up having to replace it, do I need to buy a brand new $300 one or can I get a used one off ebay?

billmi · August 2nd, 2009, 09:51 PM

Yep, I'd definitely give cleaning it a shot.

If you can rub bits of it off with your hand, that doesn't sound like heat blueing from a warped rotor constantly rubbing.

What happens when you centerstand the bike and get the front wheel off the ground (have someone sit on the seat) and spin it. Does it stop, or slow significantly when the discolored part hits the pads? That would happen if the disk is warped enough to have a rubbing problem.

Verus Cidere · August 3rd, 2009, 01:06 AM

Okay, I'll try that too. We'll see what I can find out.

ninjammin · August 4th, 2009, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by billmi

Yep, I'd definitely give cleaning it a shot.

If you can rub bits of it off with your hand, that doesn't sound like heat blueing from a warped rotor constantly rubbing.

What happens when you centerstand the bike and get the front wheel off the ground (have someone sit on the seat) and spin it. Does it stop, or slow significantly when the discolored part hits the pads? That would happen if the disk is warped enough to have a rubbing problem.

Great idea Bill, you ought to get a pretty solid answer to whether or not it's actually warped or just discolored by trying this.

July 20th, 2009, 03:20 PM	#1
Verus Cidere ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Michael Location: Southern NM Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '91 Honda CBR600 F2 Posts: A lot.	Rear sprocket, good or bad? I'm planning on getting a rear sprocket replacement soon, and was looking around to see what was available. I found one on Motorcycle-Superstore.com that looks cool and is supposed to be lightweight. My problem with it is, it looks pretty thin in a few places. Is this sprocket really strong enough? I'm planning on getting a 42 tooth. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...50R-Parts.aspx __________________________________________________ 1991 Honda CBR600 F2, White/Gray, D&D slip-on exhaust, tail integrator, gel grips, Custom undertail.

July 20th, 2009, 04:28 PM	#2
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	Interesting. It does look thin to me, but if it's going to survive on any bike, our bike is certainly the one it's going to survive on. I'd see if you can find out how long they've been offering that design, and/or see if you can find someone else who has had one for awhile. I think it probably would be fine, but I also think I'd have the same questions you have right now. __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

July 20th, 2009, 09:41 PM	#3
Verus Cidere ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Michael Location: Southern NM Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '91 Honda CBR600 F2 Posts: A lot.	Good idea........ Except, how am I supposed to find that out? I'm fairly certain they won't tell me who's ordered one from them before! __________________________________________________ 1991 Honda CBR600 F2, White/Gray, D&D slip-on exhaust, tail integrator, gel grips, Custom undertail.

July 20th, 2009, 09:56 PM	#4
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	I'd start with google searches of that particular model number... __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

July 21st, 2009, 01:29 AM	#6
Verus Cidere ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Michael Location: Southern NM Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '91 Honda CBR600 F2 Posts: A lot.	Well, I found the main page for this sprocket at Parts-Unlimited.com, and the picture doesn't make it look nearly as thin. It also talks about high grade, hardened steel. It doesn't give a steel grade though (i.e. 1024 carbon steel, etc.). I'll keep looking, but it's what I've found so far. http://street.parts-unlimited.com/18/346/7981690 __________________________________________________ 1991 Honda CBR600 F2, White/Gray, D&D slip-on exhaust, tail integrator, gel grips, Custom undertail.

July 20th, 2009, 11:04 PM	#5
bobaab ninjette.org member Name: Bob Location: Park Ridge, IL Join Date: Jul 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2001 Kawasaki Ninja 250 Posts: 74	Go with JT Sprockets or Sunstar if you are unsure. Both of those companies have good reputation for good sprockets. I just ordered a 15T front sprocket from JT and new, slightly taller tires (100/90/16)! I can't wait for the revs to come down a bit and my speedo to be more correct at higher speeds...

July 21st, 2009, 01:41 AM	#7
Verus Cidere ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Michael Location: Southern NM Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '91 Honda CBR600 F2 Posts: A lot.	The only other thing I found that I thought had something to do with this was an add for what looks like the same sprocket, but from a different company and for the CBR1000. Here's the link to that (actually a front and rear sprocket + chain package). I don't know if this helps, but it looks like the exact same sprocket and it seems to work for a 1000cc bike, so why not for a 250? http://www.solomotoparts.com/product...roductid=32789 __________________________________________________ 1991 Honda CBR600 F2, White/Gray, D&D slip-on exhaust, tail integrator, gel grips, Custom undertail.

July 21st, 2009, 01:46 AM	#8
sombo Newb..... on a steeek! :D Name: Mike Location: Windermere, FL Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Harley Davidson XL883L Sportster Superlow Posts: A lot.	If you're still unsure about it what about looking into the sunstar sprocket? Looks to be similarly light weight but possibly stronger and close in price. Sunstar 520 sprocket.

July 21st, 2009, 11:21 AM	#10
M ninjette.org member Name: M Location: Oklahoma Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 x2, Ninja 650R Posts: 165	I've had excellent wear from JT Sprockets over the years, on a variety of cycles. I use the steel ones, as their weight isn't an issue for me and I prefer the increased life from the steel sprockets.

July 22nd, 2009, 05:14 PM	#12
ninjammin ninjette.org member Name: Scott Location: South Mississippi Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2003 Ninja 250 Posts: 26	It may work out fine, but I'd stick with something a little beefier. That's just me though...the weight savings and cool factor are going to have a minimal affect.

July 27th, 2009, 02:01 PM	#13
ASecretNinja ATGATT Squid Killer Name: Chad Location: So. Cal Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): '06 CBR600 Posts: 189	My understanding is that if you're going to change one of the three components (front, rear, or chain) it is best to change all 3 at once. The chain and sprockets all sort of wear into each other, and if you were to just change one of them, you are at risk for more rapid wear to all of the components. This is one reason why you tend to see sprockets and even chains so often sold in complete sets.

July 27th, 2009, 02:41 PM	#14
Verus Cidere ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Michael Location: Southern NM Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '91 Honda CBR600 F2 Posts: A lot.	I'm planning on switching all of them out at the same time, along with brake pads and rotors (not sure on the rotors yet), and tires. __________________________________________________ 1991 Honda CBR600 F2, White/Gray, D&D slip-on exhaust, tail integrator, gel grips, Custom undertail.

July 29th, 2009, 05:30 PM	#16
Verus Cidere ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Michael Location: Southern NM Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '91 Honda CBR600 F2 Posts: A lot.	A little over 7300. Probably don't need to replace brakes yet, but they've been feeling kinda weird lately. Also, the front rotor (the one that has been feeling weird) has a strange mark on it. It almost looks like a burn. I'd get pics, but I have to go to work. I'll try and post some tomorrow. Tires need a change because their the stock dunlop pieces of crap, not to mention the tread is almost gone. Sprockets because I want taller gearing, and chain to go with the sprockets. __________________________________________________ 1991 Honda CBR600 F2, White/Gray, D&D slip-on exhaust, tail integrator, gel grips, Custom undertail.

July 29th, 2009, 11:32 PM	#18
Verus Cidere ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Michael Location: Southern NM Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '91 Honda CBR600 F2 Posts: A lot.	Problem with the chain is, it really hasn't been well taken care of. I'd like to hope that it's ok, but I didn't know how to take care of it until recently, and I have no idea whether the original owners even cleaned it. Figured I'd stick on the safe side and get a new chain and just take care of that one really well, and not risk breaking the one I have even if I am taking care of it now. Nearly all of my riding is in the city... Again, I'll try to get pics of the rotor tomorrow. __________________________________________________ 1991 Honda CBR600 F2, White/Gray, D&D slip-on exhaust, tail integrator, gel grips, Custom undertail.

July 31st, 2009, 01:29 AM	#19
ninjammin ninjette.org member Name: Scott Location: South Mississippi Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2003 Ninja 250 Posts: 26	Sounds like you're on the right track...

July 31st, 2009, 02:02 PM	#20
Verus Cidere ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Michael Location: Southern NM Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '91 Honda CBR600 F2 Posts: A lot.	Ok... I got a picture of the rotor. It didn't come out too well though. The area I'm worried about is on the right side of the picture. It's circled in red on the second picture. rotor.jpg rotor2.jpg Is that scrape/burn looking mark on the rotor a problem or is it normal? __________________________________________________ 1991 Honda CBR600 F2, White/Gray, D&D slip-on exhaust, tail integrator, gel grips, Custom undertail. Last futzed with by Verus Cidere; July 31st, 2009 at 02:09 PM. Reason: Fixed the mark on the 2nd picture...

July 31st, 2009, 03:34 PM	#21
ROADandTRACK R&T Suspension Name: K Hertell Location: San Antonio, TEXAS Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): Too many to list Posts: 175	Looks like a warped rotor to me.

July 31st, 2009, 04:52 PM	#22
ninjammin ninjette.org member Name: Scott Location: South Mississippi Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2003 Ninja 250 Posts: 26	I honestly can't tell much from the pic...does it feel warped when you brake? i.e. Do feel a pulsing from the front brake when in use?

July 31st, 2009, 08:59 PM	#23
nate-bama North Alabama Mtn. ryder Name: Nate Location: Alabama Join Date: May 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2006 Posts: 537	cooked bro __________________________________________________ QTRltrPWR

August 1st, 2009, 08:40 AM	#25
ROADandTRACK R&T Suspension Name: K Hertell Location: San Antonio, TEXAS Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): Too many to list Posts: 175	You need another rotor.

August 1st, 2009, 10:53 AM	#27
ROADandTRACK R&T Suspension Name: K Hertell Location: San Antonio, TEXAS Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): Too many to list Posts: 175	Ummm, that rotor is no good. Unless you don't really use your front brakes.

August 1st, 2009, 12:46 PM	#28
rockNroll . Name: rock Location: greenville, south carolina Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): black Posts: A lot.	The rotor will probably clean up and be ok. If he tries it and the dark area "comes off" then he saved some bux.

August 1st, 2009, 10:46 PM	#29
Verus Cidere ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Michael Location: Southern NM Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '91 Honda CBR600 F2 Posts: A lot.	Any other opinions? I'll definitely look into cleaning it up before I buy a new one, just to be sure. If I do end up having to replace it, do I need to buy a brand new $300 one or can I get a used one off ebay? __________________________________________________ 1991 Honda CBR600 F2, White/Gray, D&D slip-on exhaust, tail integrator, gel grips, Custom undertail.

August 2nd, 2009, 09:51 PM	#30
billmi ninjette.org member Name: Bill Location: Palm Bay, FL Join Date: Jul 2009 Motorcycle(s): 82 XV750, 99 DR200SE, 04 DR200SE, 08 DR200SE, 95 EX250 Posts: 71	Yep, I'd definitely give cleaning it a shot. If you can rub bits of it off with your hand, that doesn't sound like heat blueing from a warped rotor constantly rubbing. What happens when you centerstand the bike and get the front wheel off the ground (have someone sit on the seat) and spin it. Does it stop, or slow significantly when the discolored part hits the pads? That would happen if the disk is warped enough to have a rubbing problem.

August 3rd, 2009, 01:06 AM	#31
Verus Cidere ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Michael Location: Southern NM Join Date: Feb 2009 Motorcycle(s): '91 Honda CBR600 F2 Posts: A lot.	Okay, I'll try that too. We'll see what I can find out. __________________________________________________ 1991 Honda CBR600 F2, White/Gray, D&D slip-on exhaust, tail integrator, gel grips, Custom undertail.

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