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Old September 27th, 2009, 06:34 AM   #1
Racer x
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Spark plug reading

I thought I would start a thread about spark plug reading. I know something about it .But probably just enough to get in trouble .

These are the plugs out of my 250 ninja . I use NGK CR9E the stock plug is a NGK CR8E . The CR9E is a cooler plug than the CR8E .

I went to the CR9E because I noticed the tip of the CR8E was just starting to melt after a pass at Maxton .
I have the rare opportunity of being able to make a 100 mph one mile run and stop and pull the plugs . I park my van near the finish line for that reason.


The last run I made I had a spark plug issue . I contribute to installing and removing the plugs to often , But it gives a perfect view of a plug after the thread is gone.

If you look at the broken plug there is a line of darker color at the base and the tip is lighter. That line is very important. Ignore the color .(it looks rich and it is but that is mostly because it was missing. And I ran that plug on pump gas. Not race gas . The other plug is much lighter. And the A?F ratio was a tad rich on the dyno.)

The lighter tip is telling me that the the temperature of the mixture is hot enough to burn the carbon . if Carbon is left it will deposit on the insulator
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Old September 27th, 2009, 07:34 AM   #2
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I've allways been told that a cardboard color is what you want in a plug...and either white or black is lean/rich . I'm curious as the diffference between cr8e and a cr8hsa
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Old September 27th, 2009, 07:57 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nate-bama View Post
I've allways been told that a cardboard color is what you want in a plug...and either white or black is lean/rich . I'm curious as the diffference between cr8e and a cr8hsa
You are correct that the cardboard color is what you want from a street plug . Where prolonged idle and choke use will discolor the insulator . Once it turns color it wont get very white again.
But you want to see how far down the insulator the color is before it changes to dark . That is telling you the heat of the combustion.Remember that the plug will not change the mixture it only indicates the mixtures temperature. If that temp is to high . Then you would need a cooler plug to dissipate more heat and not melt.

For tuning main jet mixture it is best to start with a new plug . and do a plug chop . By "plug chop " I mean putting plugs in the bike warming it up under slight load then full throttle for as long as you can . then stop pull the plugs and look at them .

It was easy to do this back in the day with air cooled bikes . The 250 ninja makes this a little more difficult.
Are the HSA's the plug with two ground electrodes?
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Old September 27th, 2009, 09:27 AM   #4
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cr8hsa

sorry for the pic quality
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Old September 27th, 2009, 10:22 AM   #5
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racerx,
so what happened? too hot and it melted everything? so all the prong/thread etc are floating in your engine now?
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Old September 27th, 2009, 11:38 AM   #6
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I went to the dyno to tune the bike . After I got home I pulled the plug to make sure the tips were OK . I put them back in . Maybe I over tightened it. Or they where week from being pulled to many times I don't know . But at the track at full throttle the engine misfired ,so I went to my pit to check out the engine . When I pulled the wire up the plug came out with it . It took a while to get the thread out . A fellow racer gave me an easy out and it fit and removed the thread intact.From the looks of the plug . Knowing how the dyno AF ratio was The rain was barely holding off . So low pressure led me to go from 118 to 115 jets .
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Old September 27th, 2009, 01:04 PM   #7
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Racer X - you have a current-gen bike, right? I'm moving this thread to that tech section; right now it's in the pre-gen tech section.

/thread moved
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Old September 27th, 2009, 05:00 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Racer X - you have a current-gen bike, right? I'm moving this thread to that tech section; right now it's in the pre-gen tech section.

/thread moved
Sorry about that It will be good for any bike though . When ever someone asks if they should re jet when changing the exhaust . The best answer is to pull the plugs and see.

This is the same engine with a Yoshi full system . With 110 jets . it is about right acording to the A/F ratio gauge I have on my dash.
I need to find a better way to take a close up photo of the plugs.
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Old September 27th, 2009, 05:14 PM   #9
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Does your camera have a "macro" setting?
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Old September 27th, 2009, 05:45 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nate-bama View Post
I'm curious as the diffference between cr8e and a cr8hsa
Different reach for sure. E is 19mm (3/4") & H is 12.7mm (1/2")

Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer x View Post
Are the HSA's the plug with two ground electrodes?
K = two electrodes. Like CR8EK

NGK web site has lots of nice info:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...e.asp?mode=nml


http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...x.asp?mode=nml
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Old September 27th, 2009, 08:06 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer x View Post

This is the same engine with a Yoshi full system . With 110 jets . it is about right acording to the A/F ratio gauge I have on my dash.
I need to find a better way to take a close up photo of the plugs.
How do you have an a/f gauge on your dash? I mean how do you mount the o2 sensor. Just drill/weld into the header? Is it a wide band sensor?
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Old September 28th, 2009, 02:37 AM   #12
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I mounted the A/F gauge in the dash with an O2 sensor in the header. It is a cheep one . The wide band with memory is about 400 bucks.

I will have to check out the NGK web page tonight .
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Old September 28th, 2009, 02:59 PM   #13
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This is the link to NGK Tech page. It is long but for those interested in basics of engine tuning it . It may be something to print out and hang in the bathroom.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...x.asp?mode=nml
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Old September 30th, 2009, 06:05 PM   #14
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I had to run my bike for a week with my emergency plugs in it. cr7hsa, i had them laying around the local kawi dealer sold them to me as oem but my god don't ever use these
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Old October 7th, 2009, 07:53 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer x View Post
I mounted the A/F gauge in the dash with an O2 sensor in the header. It is a cheep one . The wide band with memory is about 400 bucks.

I will have to check out the NGK web page tonight .
How did you find enough room in our header to mount an 02 sensor...the darn pipe is only 1" in diameter ?
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