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Old February 24th, 2013, 04:02 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by choneofakind View Post
So that's with 108's and it just dies at the top? Go bigger. Yes it will run. Try the 110's and then the 112's.

Did you turn the mix screws in like you said you were going to? Remember to make only one change at a time.

Figure out the main jet first. Worry about the hard starting later.


Wheelie's better than 110's: I'm thinking that's because the mid-range was a little too rich with the 110's. Going up a main jet does affect the whole thing because the needle controls how much flow is from the main jet by going higher or lower. That's why you worry about the top end only when testing the main jet. You can adjust your needle height if needed later.

So far, which jet has given you the best performance at the top end with WOT? I'm not saying go for a top speed test, just rip it open in 3rd and 4th to see which pulls best from 11k-red line. Pick the jet that does best at WOT and top end. Don't choose a main jet based on mid-range performance.
Ok I've been testing it at 7k on at WOT.

I put 110s in and moved the needles to position 2 (versus 3). I also turned the mix screws out 2.75x out. Starts ****** but ill take your advice on that.

Lost about 5mph top end speed from the original 110s + position 3 and it is running way

too lean at 5-6k- its stumbling and fuel starved...

I'm about to meet up w some stunters for some lot riding now so ill be able to make some more observations.
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Old February 24th, 2013, 06:28 PM   #42
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I put 110s in and moved the needles to position 2 (versus 3). I also turned the mix screws out 2.75x out. Starts ****** but ill take your advice on that.
One thing at a time dude, one thing at a time

Put the needles back. Put the mix screws back. You want to test the mains, not confuse yourself by changing 3 things at once.

I'm not entirely sure about the needle height or the idle mix because you haven't found the right pair of mains yet.

Follow those instructions I linked earlier. They'll get you good jetting. They also do one step at a time, not 3 at once.
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Old February 25th, 2013, 07:47 AM   #43
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One thing at a time dude, one thing at a time

Put the needles back. Put the mix screws back. You want to test the mains, not confuse yourself by changing 3 things at once.

I'm not entirely sure about the needle height or the idle mix because you haven't found the right pair of mains yet.

Follow those instructions I linked earlier. They'll get you good jetting. They also do one step at a time, not 3 at once.
I ran the 110s already needle pos 3. I just changed to pos 2 on the needle and changed the idle 1/4 turn out from b4. I'm positive 108s are too small so I'm just changing my 110 settings
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Old February 25th, 2013, 07:55 AM   #44
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Gotcha. Do you think you need to try the 112's or do the 110's feel right at the top end?
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Old February 25th, 2013, 09:16 AM   #45
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Gotcha. Do you think you need to try the 112's or do the 110's feel right at the top end?
I'm too curious what they'll feel like
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Old February 25th, 2013, 05:01 PM   #46
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Put the 112s in, left needle at position no. 2.

Bike runs well, haven't taken it for a top speed run yet but feels a lot like 110s with needle position no. 3...... It may have lost some top speed but pulls well under. (chone: wheelies like a champ!)

Problem is it started running fuel starved in the 5.5-6k range again just like yesterday. I thought I just didnt notice it at first yesterday but after 30 min. of driving it just starts to run lean in the mid range...... I dont get it...
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Old February 25th, 2013, 05:05 PM   #47
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Are your slides drilled? When I experimented with drilling my slides, I had exactly that happen. If I would cruise at just under 6k, it would suddenly start surging and choking. If I juiced it a bit, it cleared up. Does that sound familiar?

Get a chance to test the top end in 3rd or 4th (don't go nut on the speed just to test your mains ) Then we'll see about the needles. Might be able to play around with that a bit later.

..wheelies like a champ. I'll never understand...
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Old February 25th, 2013, 05:10 PM   #48
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Are your slides drilled? When I experimented with drilling my slides, I had exactly that happen. If I would cruise at just under 6k, it would suddenly start surging and choking. If I juiced it a bit, it cleared up. Does that sound familiar?

Get a chance to test the top end in 3rd or 4th (don't go nut on the speed just to test your mains ) Then we'll see about the needles. Might be able to play around with that a bit later.

..wheelies like a champ. I'll never understand...
Yes exactly!! Both today and tomorrow it ran fine the first 20-30 min. or so.....

I've never touched my slides other than for cleaning....

The bike pulls pretty well I mean once I'm at 10k+ it's not pulling any harder than 7k though..... It speeds through the rpms though.

Wheelies like a champ: It's like the difference between a hot knife in warm butter a cold knife through a raw piece of steak. You just ease right through it. Tank comes up right in my lap like it wants to be held. Did best wheelies yet tonight.
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Old February 25th, 2013, 05:14 PM   #49
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...then you might have found something that works. Take it fork a top end run through 4th and see how it goes. Hopefully it's nice and smooth and pulls the whole way.

Take a peek at your slides while you're in there. Make sure the hole in the bottom isn't malformed or anything. Try putting in 3 washers like the directions from the jet kit suggest. Also, check the diaphragms carefully for damage/crinkles/whatever. Take pictures if anything looks questionable.
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Old February 25th, 2013, 05:16 PM   #50
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...then you might have found something that works. Take it fork a top end run through 4th and see how it goes. Hopefully it's nice and smooth and pulls the whole way.

Take a peek at your slides while you're in there. Make sure the hole in the bottom isn't malformed or anything. Try putting in 3 washers like the directions from the jet kit suggest. Also, check the diaphragms carefully for damage/crinkles/whatever. Take pictures if anything looks questionable.
It's not possible that there is just not enough fuel being delivered?

I think I might try clip pos. 3 for a comparison...
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Old February 25th, 2013, 05:25 PM   #51
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Maybe? Idk. I sealed my holes back up when I was having problems with the drilled slides. Never got around to fiddling with the needle height.

It's either too much fuel that's making the bike stumble and choke, or too little. I could never decide because of how much throttle it took to get out of the problem zone.
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Old February 25th, 2013, 05:49 PM   #52
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Maybe? Idk. I sealed my holes back up when I was having problems with the drilled slides. Never got around to fiddling with the needle height.

It's either too much fuel that's making the bike stumble and choke, or too little. I could never decide because of how much throttle it took to get out of the problem zone.
I really think it's too little. I've had too much time in the saddle with a fuel starved bike.
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Old February 25th, 2013, 05:59 PM   #53
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Give it a try. Like I said, I never got around to adding more washers when I had issues with the drilled slides. I just sealed them.
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Old February 26th, 2013, 06:03 AM   #54
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Talking

Is it possible the fuel just isn't getting delivered quick enough? I do have a see thru fuel filter and it looks pretty empty...hopefully that's normal. I think I might just go back to 110s and needle pos. 3

Top speed is 80 mph w the 112s and needle at pos. 2.

Well, it is fuel starved
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Old February 26th, 2013, 08:17 AM   #55
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....Is it possible the fuel just isn't getting delivered quick enough? I do have a see thru fuel filter and it looks pretty empty...hopefully that's normal.

Have you tried testing the bike without the filter?
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Old February 26th, 2013, 10:16 AM   #56
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Good idea.

I think the bike is running rich now after it hit me it runs better when its cold.
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Old February 26th, 2013, 12:22 PM   #57
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^^ good observation. That's also mentioned in the tuning guide I linked.

Where is it running better? What throttle loads? During what riding scenarios do you notice it most (besides wheelies ) that will help you get an idea of what needs leaned.
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Old February 26th, 2013, 01:35 PM   #58
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^^ good observation. That's also mentioned in the tuning guide I linked.

Where is it running better? What throttle loads? During what riding scenarios do you notice it most (besides wheelies ) that will help you get an idea of what needs leaned.
It runs great when I first start it up and just loses more and more power as the engine heats up. It feels the same as it being fuel starved but I guess it's safe to say the 112s are too big. I think I might go back to the 110s with clip position 3 now that I've tried some other settings just to get some feedback. If anything I'll put a washer under the clip....

To be honest I don't think the bike ever went over 80mph with the 112s.
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Old February 26th, 2013, 01:46 PM   #59
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That makes sense.

But more specifically, when does it feel like it's really lacking? This will help you narrow down what needs to change. Going down from 112's seems like a good idea. Usually those are run with a full exhaust.

This may sound dumb, but stick with me for a second. Take an afternoon and tinker. Start with the 105's. Test ride. Move to the 108's. Test ride. Go to the 110's. Test ride. You've already decided the 112's are too much, so don't worry about those. Change nothing but the main jets. Go see which one pulls best in 3rd and 4th.

Once you've chosen the main jet that works best, go on to figuring out the needle height. I still think you're changing too many things at once.
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Old February 26th, 2013, 05:11 PM   #60
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Already tried the 108s they were way too lean; WOT couldn't even get me past 70 I think.

Put the 110s + pos. 3 back in (3 washers on top) and bike runs well cold and warmed up. Cold the bike is soggy but rideable in the low band. Once warmed up it still seems soggy but improves a little bit. The only thing is it seems to hang a little bit for some reason blipping from idle...Makes no sense but it was persistent.

Pulls nice and hard from 7.5 rpms +

Seems to rev slower but it gives me the highest top speed. I didn't do a top speed run but last time I had these settings I was close to 100mph...
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Old February 26th, 2013, 05:45 PM   #61
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Then it sounds like you've got a setup!

You might want to play with the idle mix screws 1/4 turn at a time. In, out, whichever you want. Just keep track of how many turns out they are. You might be able to get rid of that hang and/or soggy spot.

Your other option is to play with combinations of needle positions and washers under the c-clips. This will get you sort of "half" steps to get a little less soggy feeling in the midrange.

Just throwing ideas out.

Interestingly, I also found that a 108 main jet was right for an opened intake lid, new oem filter, and full Muzzy exhaust. Interesting... strokes imaginary beard.
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Old February 26th, 2013, 05:52 PM   #62
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"How to pod"???

like this:
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Old February 27th, 2013, 05:17 AM   #63
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Then it sounds like you've got a setup!

You might want to play with the idle mix screws 1/4 turn at a time. In, out, whichever you want. Just keep track of how many turns out they are. You might be able to get rid of that hang and/or soggy spot.

Your other option is to play with combinations of needle positions and washers under the c-clips. This will get you sort of "half" steps to get a little less soggy feeling in the midrange.

Just throwing ideas out.

Interestingly, I also found that a 108 main jet was right for an opened intake lid, new oem filter, and full Muzzy exhaust. Interesting... strokes imaginary beard.
That is strange....

I'll have to try needle clip 2 + a washer underneath. The only complaint I really have is it takes longer to rev when I'm doing wheelies which feels weird. I'll also try the quarter turns out separately
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Old February 28th, 2013, 02:08 PM   #64
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Bike idles funny as of now. Same settings as last discussed. I'll be at a stop light and it will be idling at 2k then I'll drive it to the next stop light and it will be at 5k.

I already checked to make sure the throttle cable wasn't tight at the carbs and the adjuster on the handlebars wasn't tight either....
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Old March 2nd, 2013, 09:55 AM   #65
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Question about the mixture screws on the carb.

Before making any adjustments on the mixture screws I wanted to see where they were set at from the factory.
My stock mixture screw settings were set at 1.5 turns out on the Right and 2.5 turns out on the Left.

So, when you adjust the mixture screws to account for these newly installed mods do you need to offset the number of turns as well?
Like possible going 2.25 turns out on the Right and 2.75 turns on the Left. Thanks!

Area P full exhaust installed w/ K&N R0990 air filter, starting with 108 mains, starting with 3rd position on needle, and starting with 2.75 turns out.

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Old March 2nd, 2013, 01:36 PM   #66
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Question about the mixture screws on the carb.

Before making any adjustments on the mixture screws I wanted to see where they were set at from the factory.
My stock mixture screw settings were set at 1.5 turns out on the Right and 2.5 turns out on the Left.

So, when you adjust the mixture screws to account for these newly installed mods do you need to offset the number of turns as well?
Like possible going 2.25 turns out on the Right and 2.75 turns on the Left. Thanks!

Area P full exhaust installed w/ K&N R0990 air filter, starting with 108 mains, starting with 3rd position on needle, and starting with 2.75 turns out.
Where'd you get the area P exhaust???

You turn the screws all the way in and then back them out to reset them. If you look at the needles when you screw them in all the way they are at different heights because they dont screw in the exact same number of turns. That is why they were offset most likely.
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Old March 2nd, 2013, 04:28 PM   #67
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Where'd you get the area P exhaust???

You turn the screws all the way in and then back them out to reset them. If you look at the needles when you screw them in all the way they are at different heights because they dont screw in the exact same number of turns. That is why they were offset most likely.
I've been looking for an exhaust for awhile but as you know they are PRICEY! Just happened to be looking around on the forum last week and found a member selling one at a good price. He lived an hour and a half away so I drove down there and picked it up! Been smiling ever since!!!

I see what your saying about the mixture screws, THANKS!
This is my first time even touching a carb so I had no idea what I was even adjusting. I see the mechanics behind it now, I was thinking the screws were set exactly the same but they are not. I am going to make the adjustments now and get this bad boy installed!
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Old May 13th, 2013, 01:59 PM   #68
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Going to resurrect this thread for a bit as I make another change to my jetting tonight. I haven't messed with it since the last time I posted here even though I have needed to. My plan is to run my current setup with the only change being to lower the needle a half step in order to lean it out slightly. I also need to open up the idle mix screws since I've been running lean in idle for a long time now. I hope I can adjust the idle mix screws evenly as they don't like to seat even when they are turned in all the way.

The bike runs good with the current jetting but I have noticed what I am pretty sure is a slight rich condition. The two symptoms present are: 1) Slower than normal revs when throttle is snapped open, and 2) Bike runs slightly better when first turned on from a cold engine.

I hope these settings will do the trick as I have taken the carbs apart many times now. I no longer have plastics on my bike due to a crash so I won't be able to pit my former top speeds against this setting but I will still be able to compare it against my current top speed.
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Old May 13th, 2013, 06:24 PM   #69
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Put the half step in the needle and I can say the bike is running much better now. It jerks when I snap the throttle open a little bit and pulls hard at WOT which it wasn't doing before. Top speed is about the same even though I'd like to try it out with my plastics on oh well.

While performing wheelies I am able to better bring the front end up when it starts to fall down which I wasn't able to as much before which is great. I'd really like to lean it out another quarter step but I don't think I can find a washer thin enough.

The bike still revs semislow which tells me it is still slightly rich but performance doesn't decrease as the engine temp warms up. I am happy with the settings for now so I'll leave it alone.
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Old September 9th, 2013, 09:36 AM   #70
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Put a muzzy on, bumped my mains up from 110 to 112. Stumbles at 8.5k cruising, accelerates fine but kind of unresponsive when accelerating from a quick decel... Like it takes a good twist to get it back accelerating.

The 110s had a tiny bit of pop under heavy accel in the high band and I think it was surging. After another ride home today I can confirm the current condition... Might try to put the 110s back in and raise the needle next fix....

Thoughts?
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Old September 9th, 2013, 09:42 AM   #71
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Put a muzzy on, bumped my mains up from 110 to 112. Stumbles at 8.5k cruising, accelerates fine but kind of unresponsive when accelerating from a quick decel... Like it takes a good twist to get it back accelerating.

The 110s had a tiny bit of pop under heavy accel in the high band and I think it was surging. After another ride home today I can confirm the current condition... Might try to put the 110s back in and raise the needle next fix....

Thoughts?
That's what I've got right now - if I'm accelerating, drop throttle, get back on throttle it takes a moment to respond. Will adjust needles probably tonight and see what happens.
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Old September 9th, 2013, 09:56 AM   #72
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That's what I've got right now - if I'm accelerating, drop throttle, get back on throttle it takes a moment to respond. Will adjust needles probably tonight and see what happens.
What kit are you running? Do you know your altitude? main jet/needle Settings?
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Old September 9th, 2013, 10:03 AM   #73
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Oh I'm sea level - its been how it is for ~ 6 months. Doesn't make the bike less usable. If the issue was worse I'd have actually rectified it before now

It's a factorypro jet kit. I installed the pods only because it made carb installation/extraction a lot easier, and needed to rejet to account for the change. Since I only use the ninjette to go from home to work and back, it's been fine.. but I'd love to get rid of the stumble. Doing it tonight because this tank of gas is almost empty so its an ideal time
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Old September 9th, 2013, 10:11 AM   #74
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Forgot to ask: what's your top speed?
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Old September 9th, 2013, 10:34 AM   #75
fierostetz
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I weigh about 250 and I'm 6'3" and after pods/muzzy, cleaning/adjusting carbs, etc. the speedo has near 100. I haven't bothered to verify with a GPS yet but I think the speedo is ~12% optimistic. It's noticeably quicker on the top end, but the low-end definitely suffered. It takes a bit more RPM to get moving without bogging.
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Old September 9th, 2013, 11:13 AM   #76
choneofakind
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Why am I in your sig Justin? FYI, according to my tach and the speed/rpm calculator, my top speed is 102-103 on a racetrack. The speedo is uselessly high.


And seriously. Stop asking people to test their top speed on a road. It's retarded and not worth the risk involved.
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Old September 9th, 2013, 12:37 PM   #77
FvnnyL3tt3r1ng
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Quote:
Originally Posted by choneofakind View Post
Why am I in your sig Justin? FYI, according to my tach and the speed/rpm calculator, my top speed is 102-103 on a racetrack. The speedo is uselessly high.


And seriously. Stop asking people to test their top speed on a road. It's retarded and not worth the risk involved.
Chone, I'm just teasing. I never asked anyone to do anything they didn't want to anyways.

I get about that speed as well fiero +5mph tucked.

Rode home today and it is acting the same as described prior. I guess the richness of the decel is causing it to bog when you try to take back off? Well whatever the case I obv. need to return to the 110s and play with the needle height now.
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Old September 9th, 2013, 01:57 PM   #78
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Turn the idle mix screws in a little. Try 1/8 turn in on both.

At one point 2 seasons back, mine were too far out and I got some bogging right off the line. Went to the track on a really hot day and the bike started dying at idle so I turned them in 1/4 turn and it stopped dying. When I started riding street again, the big was gone.

Currently I'm with pods and 110 mains, 3 washers on the needles and exactly 2.5 turns out on the idle screws
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Old September 9th, 2013, 03:32 PM   #79
FvnnyL3tt3r1ng
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Lol seasons.

Now I wish i had a pair of 111 main jets. Yeah I know they don't make them but I think that's what my bike wants. I'm going to try and raise the needle and hope I get a little more power out of her!
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Old September 10th, 2013, 03:57 AM   #80
FvnnyL3tt3r1ng
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Needle raised from 3.5x to clip position 4. Unfortunately I won't be able to test it out until this evening because of the weather...
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