Battery recommendations

[Bob2010]

So during the summer , my 2010 had only 900 miles on it. Occasionally it would start very weak. 2 times I had to "jump" with my battery charger. Then all is fine for a few days.
Over the winter , it complelty died. The 2009 with twice the mileage , turns right over , and sat just as long.
So I put my charger on the battery. Nothing It turns over once then clicks. After I pulled the charger off, the bike is 100% dead. Not even a dim light.
So after charging and charging , still dead. It won't even power my LED
(weird fact, with the charger hooked up to the battery, and key on, the rpm gauge reads 7K)
SO since my factory battery is junk, what are my options?
I'd like one that reasonably priced , better than stock
I seen gel, liquid , etc.. Haven't really researched bike batteries.
Any real life personal experiences ?

Here is an example of what I saw on eBay
Item# 360587132863

Battery that came out of the 2010 is
GSYUASA YTX9-BS
12v 8Ah/10HR

[Alex]

You can't really go wrong with stock here. They are made by Yuasa, which is also one of the most popular replacement brands.

[tubarney]

By the sounds of it you have a parasitic leak. I would fix this before you buy a battery.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gi...DDA9C&index=14

Instead of the crappy lead battery get yourself a ballistic 4 cell evo 2. Does not need to be re-charged liked a cheap arse lead battery. More expensive but comes with a 3 year warranty.

[Bob2010]

Only difference between the 2 bikes is probably the aftermarket stuff.
The 2009 has heated hand grips and an LED kit.
However those are both on switches.

The 2010 has a LED kit only , but it's not on a switch. It's controlled by my key fob.


I do plan on ordering HID kits for both bikes for both high and low beam.

[Motofool]

Batteries just have a limited life, very much shorten for lack of use and deep discharges.

After a point, they just don't take or retain any charge, due to internal problems.

Read this:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Battery_stuff

[choneofakind]

Originally Posted by Bob2010

I do plan on ordering HID kits for both bikes for both high and low beam.

If you're going to do an HID kit, do the low beam only an keep the halogen high beam. HID kits take time to warm up and don't like being turned on and off, so they make bad high beams. Besides, the high beam is the one you really want the right bulb in so you get the right pattern for long-range vision.

If you're going to do a full projector retrofit like a few of us, do both.

[Bob2010]

Okay. Thanks for the tip on the HIDs. I wasnt planing on the projector retro fit. I see your point.

As for the battery , I agree with Alex. Probably just get a direct replacement. Was curious if there was anything slightly better in the same price range. I am thinking maybe my money is best spent the battery tenders versus an upgraded battery.

I will look into that parasitic loss some more too. I really dont think the 2 way transmitter could put such a draw on the bike. If that's the culprit, then I'll hard wire it to a switch like the 09.


Edit Looks like I can get 2 battery tender jr's for about $40.

[Racer x]

Working in a motorcycle shop. I see a lot of dead batteries. Every spring dozens of scooters and bikes come in with dead batteries. They don't last more than a couple years. With all the mods I have I still use a stock battery. I tried Ballistic Batteries. It was a piece of crap.

To test your bike for a draw. Turn it off and remove the key. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Put a test light between the negative battery post and the cable. The bulb should not light.
If you have a meter . Set it to amp. Do the same test . There should be no current flow.

[tubarney]

Originally Posted by Racer x

I tried Ballistic Batteries. It was a piece of crap.

Care to elaborate on why they are crap. I'm thinking about getting one.

[Racer x]

I bought it and it was OK . I charged it carefully using the fancy charger. First trip to the track it would not crank over the cold engine long enough to start. So I used my old stock battery to jump it. Then I was home doing some work and it read 10.8 volts . I put it on the charger. As soon as I tried to crank the engine it was back to 10 volts. I looked at the warranty. It says it is void if the voltage drops below 12 volts. I pitched it.

[HKr1]

My stock GS yuasa was made in China, The Yuasa replacement says made in usa.

[Nemesis]

I use the MotyDesign batteries on all my bikes. No recharging necessary. One of THE lightest batteries.

www.motydesign.com

[ninjamunky85]

Can't go wrong with the Yuasa. I've only had to replace the battery once in my bike in almost 10 years. Most of those without a battery tender either.

I've also heard good things about these batteries. http://www.amazon.com/YTX9-BS-Motorc...I1U84ZJBEKPO2W

[choneofakind]

Originally Posted by ninjamunky85

I've also heard good things about these batteries. http://www.amazon.com/YTX9-BS-Motorc...I1U84ZJBEKPO2W

That's the same size as my battery. I got it at Autozone for about $40. That size is convenient (and light) but the thing is, I had to hack up some foam and cram it into my battery box to compensate for the difference in size. Other than that, problem free.

[tubarney]

Originally Posted by Racer x

I bought it and it was OK . I charged it carefully using the fancy charger. First trip to the track it would not crank over the cold engine long enough to start. So I used my old stock battery to jump it. Then I was home doing some work and it read 10.8 volts . I put it on the charger. As soon as I tried to crank the engine it was back to 10 volts. I looked at the warranty. It says it is void if the voltage drops below 12 volts. I pitched it.

Did you buy the 4 cell, 8 amp, 135CCA? I have heard people having trouble in cold weather with them. Apparently they go to sleep or something.

[Racer x]

I had the eight cell battery.

[mgentz]

Originally Posted by Racer x

I had the eight cell battery.

I got an Alien motion battery. Same look and concept as the ballistic but with a MUCH smaller failure rate. I deal with the guys at riders discount a lot and they turned me on to this battery. It is nice. I got the 4 cell and it weighs about 1 lb. starts the bike right up.

cannot complain here....lots of weight reduction for only $80.

[tubarney]

your kidding right? an 8 cell didn't even work.

in regards to the warranty of the ballistic's. It might have changed since you last purchased one. It says the warranty is void if you let if drain below 30%, which is 9.52 volts. It also says you can charge a battery thats down to 9V. 6v the battery is considered dead.

[Bob2010]

Battery tender jr's are a good choice right ?

[Racer x]

The battery was defective and dropped a cell. It died on its own. They say the warranty is void if the battery voltage goes below 30%. That is BS. The fact that it went below 30% is why it was no good. It like saying the battery Warranty is void if the battery dies.

[tubarney]

So I see this on the ballistics website: "Applications not listed on the Ballistic website or using the EVO2 as a main power source."

I sent them an email getting them to explain. this is what I got back.

"Our batteries are made to be starter batteries.

They are not made to power electric motorcycles.

Sincerely,
Ballistic Response Team"

Are they joking or what. So much for their claims about reduced size from OEM battery when it doesn't even do the same thing. Why are they even comparing the 2.

[choneofakind]

Originally Posted by tubarney

So much for their claims about reduced size from OEM battery when it doesn't even do the same thing. Why are they even comparing the 2.

They're just saying that an electric bike that uses an electric motor is not to use their battery.

Their battery is to replace your oem battery, which is used to start your vehicle. In other words, they're saying it's fine to use this battery with a ninja 250, but not an e-tracer.

[tubarney]

yeah sorry he confused me there so I sent another email since he didn't answer my question. Turns out they say you can use the 4 cell battery by itself to power the ninja 250r, but like x said its a bit of bs that they void the warranty if the battery dies.

[Bob2010]

Any recommendations on battery tenders?

[choneofakind]

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender...tery+tender+jr

[lgk]

Another yuasa fan here
Crashed three times and ran it down twice...

Still works great.


I use the split hookups directly from the battery, and route it into my rear seat.
Then the batter tender charger hooks into the cable without removing all the panels.

[Bob2010]

Perfect!
I have a OEM battery on its way and 2 battery tender jr's

My one bike had a cable hanging out the fairing but I since removed it as I don't see any use for it.
Now I know the previous owner was using a tender on the bike. Go figure that was the bike that still has a working battery.

Good idea. I like the fact of popping the seat cowl off and charging

Thank you guys for the advice

[Bob2010]

*update
The 2010 is on the battery tender after every ride (reminds me of charging a cell phone)
The key fob led unit by street glow was drawing power when off and was promptly removed
LEDs have been replaced this year and no longer use a fob (switch)


Now the 2009 is giving same issues. But is also on the tender whenever it's not being ridden.

It cranks over slowly then that's it.
If I remove the seat and jump start the bike and ride - the battery will start the bike for that day only.
Strange huh

Looks like I'll just order another YTX9-BS and not worry about why the tender shows green (charged) but not enough cranking amps to start the bike. Only the bikes charging system gives the battery a bit of charge for a day