February 25th, 2012, 03:42 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: Eric
Location: Nashville, TN
Join Date: Oct 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2009 CBR600rr Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 1
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Weak-ish Brake
So a while ago, I put a stainless steel brake line on my Ninja's front brake. After installing it, I felt like the brake was weaker than it was with my OEM line on it. Having thought I may have just gotten some fluid on the break pads, I was just a bit more cautious and didn't think much of it. After a while of it not improving, I had a place look at it, and they said it should be fine, they see no problems with it. It still bothered me though, so I took it to another place a bit after and had it the brake line completely re-bled and the fluid replaced. Honestly, that didn't improve anything. So what should I do next? Do you guys thing it's the brake pads? If it is, should I have it replaced with EBC HH pads or should I try to have the stock pads fixed? I found something about glazing and fixing it by taking off the pad and lightly going over it a couple of times with 400 grit sandpaper.
I've been on my friend's 250 and his has a steel brake line as well, and his brake is much much stronger than mine. I'd really like to get my front brake working nice and strong, but am not sure what to do at this point. |
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February 25th, 2012, 03:46 PM | #2 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Weezy
Location: Massachusetts
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2005 Yamaha FZ6 Posts: 169
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First thought was air bubbles in the line. Does the lever feel firm? Or squishy?
But you said they bled and refilled your lines. I guess if you trust someone else working on your brakes (I don't) then you shouldn't have any air bubbles. I would try sanding the rotor with water and 400 grit paper, same with the surface of the pads. If that doesn't help, then I'm stumped. |
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February 25th, 2012, 05:14 PM | #3 |
Daily Ninjette rider
Name: Hernan
Location: Florida
Join Date: Mar 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.
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I would replace the pads.
If they got contaminated with oil, brake fluid or gasoline, they will not improve. They have to be replaced eventually; hence, why not buy and try new ones and eliminate that factor. If the problem is another one, you could always reinstall the original pads until they finish their useful life. It is important to have the front brake at full capacity.
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Motofool .................................Never ride faster than your guardian angel can fly "Mankind is composed of two sorts of men — those who love and create, and those who hate and destroy. Love is the bond between men, the way to teach and the center of the world." - José Martí |
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February 25th, 2012, 07:25 PM | #4 |
Blind 250 Loving Whore
Name: Tom
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Join Date: May 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2008 250R, 02 FZ1, '20 Fat Bob 114 Posts: A lot.
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If it's not the pads, stumped
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February 26th, 2012, 10:38 AM | #5 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: David
Location: Loves Park, IL
Join Date: Feb 2011 Motorcycle(s): Time will tell Posts: 969
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If you think it's the pads.. Swap the rear pads for the front pads to see if you can tell the difference. Stock pads on our 250's are Sintered HH already, so if you can't tell the difference with the rear pads up front (assuming they haven't been contaminated), then that's not the issue. Hopefully, though, it is.
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February 26th, 2012, 11:03 AM | #6 |
CVMA / AFM / M1GP #250
Name: Steve
Location: Los Angeles
Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Ninja 250r, 2011 Zero S, 2009 KLR 650 Posts: A lot.
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here's a sweet trick i've learned for speed bleeding the ninja front brake at the track since the fluid tends to boil after every session, and works every time:
1) hold the front wheel with both hands front and back 2) press on the brake caliper with your knee so you compress the brake pad all the way into the caliper (or if it hurts just press enough to get a wood or plastic pry bar in there). This pushes all the fluid out of the caliper and often some bubbles with it, that won't get bled out using the normal method. 3) pump the brake lever for the first few mm of the lever stroke. Bubbles tend to get trapped right at the beginning of the stroke in the stock master cylinder. 4) then pump the brake until it is firm. If that doesn't make the lever feel better, then get some vesrah brake pads: http://kurveygirl.com/shop/product_i...roducts_id=353 |
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February 26th, 2012, 07:11 PM | #7 |
ninjette.org member
Name: shane
Location: south dakota
Join Date: Nov 2011 Motorcycle(s): 09 250r race bike, 06 R6 race bike, 06 YZ450f Tard Posts: 122
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when i replaced the front line and pads it took forever to get a firm lever. even after using my power bleeder, thinking i got all the air out of the lines, still had a soft lever. i let her sit overnite, and the next day bled them again and still had alot of air in the caliper. took about another 30mins of bleeding, but, finally got a strong lever.
those front calipers are a biotch to bleed. |
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