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Old October 29th, 2013, 09:57 PM   #41
JosueDG
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I've got roughly 17k on mine. It sounds and feels perfectly fine to my amateur motorcycle mechanic skills.
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Old May 2nd, 2017, 05:23 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GREY NINJA View Post
How many miles do you have on your ninja now? Be honest-----I'm at 6454 miles
Almost 25 000 miles (39800 km) on my 250R, bought in Februar 2012.

Saw one that had 62 000 miles at one point in time, here: http://thesundaybe.st/
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Old May 2nd, 2017, 08:33 AM   #43
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I'm currently at ~27000 miles on my 2011 250R and I'm not gentle with it. Still runs beautifully!
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Old May 2nd, 2017, 08:45 AM   #44
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25,300 right now on my 2011. All trouble free, too. I'd say the bike is very high mileage friendly.
I sold that bike I mentioned in this old post with 34k miles on the odo. Rode it for nearly 4 yrs without issue.
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Old May 2nd, 2017, 08:56 AM   #45
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I sold that bike I mentioned in this old post with 34k miles on the odo. Rode it for nearly 4 yrs without issue.
Hey! I have the same fairings as you had. I guess that means that mine will keep going strong until at least 34k too. I hear the black ninjas start conking-out around 30k.

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Old May 2nd, 2017, 09:09 AM   #46
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What kills most vehicles (and machines of all kinds) isn't use.

It's neglect.

Bad things people do:
- Park it outside where the weather can get to it.
- Stuff it in the back of a shed where critters can get to it.
- Ignore basic maintenance, or do a half-a$$ed job.
- Fail to winterize/store properly. (fuel, battery)
- Fail to keep it clean.
- Fail to replace rubber/vinyl parts as they age and oxidize.
- FAIL TO USE IT

I've never run a bike to truly high mileage, but I routinely do it with cars. The record-holder was a 1989 Honda Civic that I drove to 254,000 miles (on the original clutch!) and sold only because my father passed and left me enough money to buy a new car.

My current car (2008 Honda Fit) has 169,000 on it and I fully expect to get at least another 100k out of it, because I do the maintenance and drive it pretty much daily.

Anything more than 10 years old, low mileage isn't a plus. It's a warning sign.
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Old May 2nd, 2017, 12:05 PM   #47
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42k on my 2014 300. Only issue has been a bad stator. This includes plenty of off roading in places she wasn't designed to
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Old May 2nd, 2017, 01:59 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akima View Post
Hey! I have the same fairings as you had. I guess that means that mine will keep going strong until at least 34k too. I hear the black ninjas start conking-out around 30k.

That's an old pic. That bike was involved in a hit & run crash and I replaced those fairings with the white & green ones that were on the 2010 Ninjas.
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Old May 2nd, 2017, 09:41 PM   #49
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Old May 4th, 2017, 03:24 AM   #50
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Mine had about 18k when I bought her in February 2013, 33k when I took my dash and fairings off in spring 2015. I'd assume she has around 40k now, maybe a little less, and she runs just as strong as the day I bought her. Not sure if she's ever had a valve adjustment, previous owner may have, but I never have, just oil changes and fluid top ups. No major mechanical issues other than ones I caused by crashing or going down. Something tells me it might be about time to start looking at a new set of clutch disks, but that's more paranoia than anything, as I haven't actually noticed any issue at all. I even do wheelies and have no issue. She doesn't particularly like it if I try and do a burnout, but these bikes aren't exactly known for an ability to light up the rear tire (though fully capable!)

In my experience, many consider ~30k "high mileage" for any bike, which is ridiculous to me. I'm going to see if I can't milk 100k or more out of my girl. I'll ride her until she dies or I die. Presumably the former will come first, and then I'll replace the engine or do a total rebuild and ride her another 100k. I LOVE this bike.
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Old May 4th, 2017, 11:07 AM   #51
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I got about 63,000 miles on my 2008 ninja 250. Still running well.
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Old May 4th, 2017, 04:14 PM   #52
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All well-made water cooled bikes are good for six-figure mileage.
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Old September 16th, 2018, 06:37 PM   #53
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My 2011 hit 13k today.
Maintenance by the book.
2k OCI’s
Replaced groundwire assembly, thermostat, carbs rebuilt(long winter) brake pads and tires.
so far. Going to give it to a family member when it hits 30k.
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Old September 16th, 2018, 07:46 PM   #54
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Old September 17th, 2018, 06:37 AM   #55
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I had an 88 with 138000 miles. The engine was replaced. Then I redid a bunch of stuff and VaFish has it now. Probably still going.
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Old September 18th, 2018, 06:30 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer x View Post
I had an 88 with 138000 miles. The engine was replaced. Then I redid a bunch of stuff and VaFish has it now. Probably still going.
Racer X: You are a collector of extraordinarily big numbers.
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Old September 18th, 2018, 06:49 PM   #57
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Not really
I got
The bike from the original owner after it broke down . I fixed it and was going to ride is befor I sold it.
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Old September 26th, 2018, 03:47 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norway View Post
Almost 25 000 miles (39800 km) on my 250R, bought in Februar 2012.

Saw one that had 62 000 miles at one point in time, here: http://thesundaybe.st/
It has now become almost 55 000 kms for my 250R, almost 35 000 miles.
Regularly serviced. Brake pads, tires, chain and sprockets and a couple of lightbulbs were replaced. That's all. Leaking fork seals were twice cured by using the SealMate tool. Fixed the problem for a few dollars.
No real problems with the bike. Impressing, when one compare it to certaion other (non japanese) brands.
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Old September 27th, 2018, 11:23 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by Racer x View Post
I had an 88 with 138000 miles. The engine was replaced. Then I redid a bunch of stuff and VaFish has it now. Probably still going.
The bike is probably still going, but I don't have it anymore. It went off to a new owner about a year ago.
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Old October 3rd, 2018, 01:08 PM   #60
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Newbie but longtime Ninjette rider here. Hey Everyone!

I will hit 69000 mile this week on my 2000 EX250R. Bought it with only 600 on it and has been my regular commuter for over 11 years. Original engine with oil changes every 5000 miles (Shell Rotella). It has been very reliable but not without hiccups - ignition module, 4 sprocket/chains replacements, chain tensioner, speedo cable, throttle/clutch cables and one exhaust valve that is getting tight (not sure what to do about this since the adjustment is now maxed out). I am not sure how many more miles but I am going to keep going...
Cheers!

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Old October 3rd, 2018, 05:38 PM   #61
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Welcome, Curtis!
Bet you've gone through a few tires, too!
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Old October 3rd, 2018, 10:47 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by Buzzerd View Post
Newbie but longtime Ninjette rider here. Hey Everyone!

I will hit 69000 mile this week on my 2000 EX250R. Bought it with only 600 on it and has been my regular commuter for over 11 years. Original engine with oil changes every 5000 miles (Shell Rotella). It has been very reliable but not without hiccups - ignition module, 4 sprocket/chains replacements, chain tensioner, speedo cable, throttle/clutch cables and one exhaust valve that is getting tight (not sure what to do about this since the adjustment is now maxed out). I am not sure how many more miles but I am going to keep going...
Cheers!

Buzzerd
Your mention of having an exhaust valve that is maxed out on adjustment reminded me of something I've wondered about.

While doing valve adjustments on my '05 EX250 I've looked at the rocker arm assembly and thought about what I might be able to do if one of my valves ever reached the limits of its adjustment. I haven't gotten to this point yet but I've wondered if you could re-grind the "ball end" of the adjustment screw on the rocker arm to take a little off the top of it, preserving the rounded profile while grinding it, then re-polish the new lower profile to original smoothness.

When you reinstalled it in the head there would be more clearance adjustment available. Sure would beat removing the entire head to replace the valve.



Another thought would be to wonder if you could take a bit of material off the underside of the rocker arm itself, so the adjustment screw could move further upward.
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Old October 4th, 2018, 06:33 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by dcj13 View Post
Welcome, Curtis!
Bet you've gone through a few tires, too!
On my fourth set now. I have settled on the Kenda K671 as a good commuter tire.
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Old October 4th, 2018, 06:43 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greg737 View Post
Your mention of having an exhaust valve that is maxed out on adjustment reminded me of something I've wondered about.

While doing valve adjustments on my '05 EX250 I've looked at the rocker arm assembly and thought about what I might be able to do if one of my valves ever reached the limits of its adjustment. I haven't gotten to this point yet but I've wondered if you could re-grind the "ball end" of the adjustment screw on the rocker arm to take a little off the top of it, preserving the rounded profile while grinding it, then re-polish the new lower profile to original smoothness.

When you reinstalled it in the head there would be more clearance adjustment available. Sure would beat removing the entire head to replace the valve.



Another thought would be to wonder if you could take a bit of material off the underside of the rocker arm itself, so the adjustment screw could move further upward.
Taking material off of the rocker arm would still leave the adjustment close to maxed out. I might look at shaving a few thousandths of the end of the valve stem if it looks like it might become an issue. The gap is tight now so it may only a matter of time before the valve doesn't fully close. Of course I would rather fix it correctly by replacing the valve and maybe freshen things up a bit while it is apart.
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Old October 4th, 2018, 08:19 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buzzerd View Post
Taking material off of the rocker arm would still leave the adjustment close to maxed out. I might look at shaving a few thousandths of the end of the valve stem if it looks like it might become an issue. The gap is tight now so it may only a matter of time before the valve doesn't fully close. Of course I would rather fix it correctly by replacing the valve and maybe freshen things up a bit while it is apart.
As I understand it, sometimes the valve seats will recess into the head. Would that explain your situation?

There is a thread here somewhere where a employee of APE chimed-in on the subject.
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Old October 4th, 2018, 08:52 AM   #66
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Taking material off of the rocker arm would still leave the adjustment close to maxed out. I might look at shaving a few thousandths of the end of the valve stem if it looks like it might become an issue. The gap is tight now so it may only a matter of time before the valve doesn't fully close. Of course I would rather fix it correctly by replacing the valve and maybe freshen things up a bit while it is apart.
Yes, I was just pointing to the fact that there are two very different paths you might follow in dealing with this issue:

Path 1. try to gain some adjustment without taking the head off the engine.

Path 2. give in and go ahead and remove the head from the engine from the bike for either a quick fix on the single bad valve or to perform a complete refurbishment (most people won't/can't go to this level of effort)

So things like shaving the bottom of the rocker arm and/or re-profiling the adjuster ball-end fall into the much easier "don't remove the head" category which puts you back to riding pretty quickly, while things like shaving off a bit of the valve stem end falls into the much more difficult "go ahead and remove the head" category.

"Shaving a few thousandths off the end of the valve stem" would require removing the valve from the head, which would mean first removing the head from the engine, which, if you're going to go that far why not just order a new valve from a parts supplier?

Your last sentence:
Quote:
Of course I would rather fix it correctly by replacing the valve and maybe freshen things up a bit while it is apart.
Indicates you are willing and able (tools, time, skills) to remove the engine's top end to perform a refurbishment. Most EX250 riders are not prepared/willing to do this level of maintenance.

Most EX250 guys will simply purchase an entire low-miles replacement engine off of Ebay (or similar web sales point). This is because the EX250 is a very high production volume, low-cost, entry-level bike, there exists a great availability of parts from "parted-out" bikes. So treating the EX250 engine as a "disposable" and "remove-and-replace" item often makes more sense than putting in the effort to rebuild. And in your case you might be able to upgrade from a high-miles 2000 year-model engine to a low-miles 2007 engine (this is the path most EX250 guys would take).

They say that the quality of the metallurgical work in both the composition of the metal alloys and the casting of EX250 engine structures improved as the years went by, meaning that later year-model engines were much less likely to undergo valve seat recession.
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Old October 4th, 2018, 09:25 AM   #67
Buzzerd
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I really appreciate everyones input.
What makes this valve situation interesting is that the other valves have plenty of adjustment left.
As jkv45 suggested, I suspect the seat is becoming recessed into the head. My thought of shaving the end of the valve would be to remove the rocker arm, cover everything and carefully remove material above the keepers with the valve in place. I have no idea if this is actually possible without causing more problems. End the end, an engine swap may be the best way to go rather than just rebuilding the cylinder head.

Edit: Looking at some images of the cam rocker assembly it would be difficult but not impossible to do this. I am not in a hurry to remove cams though.

To top it off, my wife has suggested getting a newer bike and I am sure we all know how dangerous that is!!
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Old October 4th, 2018, 09:59 AM   #68
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To top it off, my wife has suggested getting a newer bike and I am sure we all know how dangerous that is!!
Well, that would just be an example of taking the concept of "EX250 disposability" to its ultimate level of expression.

Wha-cha-gonna-get? Wha-cha-gonna-get? Wha-cha-gonna-get? Huh? Huh?
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Old October 4th, 2018, 11:21 AM   #69
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Well, that would just be an example of taking the concept of "EX250 disposability" to its ultimate level of expression.

Wha-cha-gonna-get? Wha-cha-gonna-get? Wha-cha-gonna-get? Huh? Huh?
I have always lusted after the Honda VFR but in reality I have loved the Ninjette as a daily commuter - great gas mileage, easy to work on, parts are (relatively) cheap and available and they are fun to ride without risking triple-digit speeding tickets. The Ninja 300 looks like a nice bike.
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Old October 4th, 2018, 12:01 PM   #70
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I have always lusted after the Honda VFR but in reality I have loved the Ninjette as a daily commuter - great gas mileage, easy to work on, parts are (relatively) cheap and available and they are fun to ride without risking triple-digit speeding tickets. The Ninja 300 looks like a nice bike.
I'm a huge fan of the 5th Generation Honda VFR800 (the '98 to '01 year models). The V-4 engine with its flat-plane (180 degree) crankshaft sounds like a little Ferrari, the gear-driven camshafts have a great sounding straight-cut gear whine, and the variable-length (2 path) intake gives it a very nice "intake honk" that changes at about 7,000 RPM when the second path opens up and the engine-mounted single-sided swingarm looks great. And, the Honda PGM-FI makes it a truly modern bike (no carbs). Plus, Honda build quality.

The 5th Generation VFR was definitely the "best of the breed" among the VFR generations, it was the last year to have gear-driven camshafts and the first year to have Honda's PGM-FI system.

I like them so much I've got 2 of them: a '99 that I keep here in Denver and an '01 that I keep in Alabama where I spend a lot of time.

My '99 has an aftermarket Vance & Hines S4 Stainless exhaust canister on it which really lets you hear the unique V-4 engine sound, the firing order of this engine is wonderfully irregular, 1-0-1-0-0-1-0-1-, and results in a nice burble at idle and a rumbly operating sound throughout the rev-range.

Here's what a 5th Gen VFR800 with an aftermarket exhaust canister sounds like (not my bike but a very good video, if you watch the whole video he takes the bike through its paces: highway and surface streets, neighborhood):https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcZcY2oJ-nM

V-4 engine sound explained:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwEbwKBic6w

But with all that said, I still love my '05 EX250 and so does my daughter. She has pretty much taken it over from me and her feeling of ownership is so strong she's even given it a new pet-name that she prefers.
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Old October 6th, 2018, 05:14 AM   #71
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Cool

I have owned two pre-gen Ninja 250s, both purchased under $1k each.



I rode about 10k miles on each of them before selling them at prices right about the amount that I purchased them.

The ease of care and price for replacement or repair on pre-gen Ninja 250 is a very valid point.

I used to commute on highway 100+ mile one way on the Ninja 250 twice a week, 80+ mph, sustained 11-12k rpm for solid 40-50 miles non-stop. Ninja 250 never miss a beat.
Ninja 250 would still be my choice for such mundane commute if I didn't have so much crap to carry along with me, even among my other choices of bikes:

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Old October 8th, 2018, 07:35 AM   #72
Buzzerd
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Nice stable, "A"!!
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