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Old September 1st, 2012, 12:22 PM   #41
Jim Moore
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Goddam boys, that stuff looks trick. Far be it from me to criticize a cool project, but wouldn't it be easier just to cut a piece of PVC pipe to the right size?
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Old September 1st, 2012, 12:31 PM   #42
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Goddam boys, that stuff looks trick. Far be it from me to criticize a cool project, but wouldn't it be easier just to cut a piece of PVC pipe to the right size?
Precisely, that would be TOO easy, to do, but a b**ch to adjust and it wouldn't be trick either
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Old September 1st, 2012, 12:43 PM   #43
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Valid points. have fun.
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Old November 2nd, 2012, 12:52 AM   #44
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Sooooo... Since I haven't really had a chance to test my "home made" preload adjusters yet, I thought it would be a perfect time to make another set...
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Old November 2nd, 2012, 07:31 AM   #45
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i like having a larger nut on top... it makes it easy to adjust by hand while you are riding the bike (like "oh i forgot i have this set super tight cause i was riding fast... now i'm riding over bumps... loosen'erup!")

also to address the whole 'just cut pvc' issue; the problem is that you have to cut and check and cut and check and cut and check and if you lose 5 lbs or change gear, you get to cut and recheck all overagain. with a simple screw adjuster, you can sit on the bike and have someone measure your sags and be done with adjustment in 30 seconds. yes it takes a little prep work but for people who want more control depending on the situation (track conditions, street and road conditions etc) its almost mandatory... and DIY preload adjusters accomplish the same thing without buying a $100 piece of metal

another thing to note is that preload is not a replacement from properly weighted springs. its in addition to spring and oil changes.
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Old November 2nd, 2012, 07:36 AM   #46
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i forgot to mention, nice work @psych0hans
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Old November 2nd, 2012, 08:01 AM   #47
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i forgot to mention, nice work @psych0hans
Thanks Alex... It's just a pity I haven't been able to install them yet. I've also ordered myself a set of .70 springs from sonic springs. Once I get those I can finally finish off the front end upgrade... Then it's "on to the next one" lol
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Old November 2nd, 2012, 08:07 AM   #48
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i have .75 sonic springs. i think it came with instructions that i promptly threw out. the springs are shorter than stock so it comes with pvc to make new spacers and new metal washers to go between each section... i like the washers they give better than the oem washers in the fork so i used those instead. the springs with heavier oil really was a very noticable difference. but with the front setup correctly it really highlights the rearend... time for a new rear shock i think :P i run the R1 shock which is dirt cheap and easy to work on... but you have to use the r1 shock knuckle and make your own links if you want to go that route. but only doing one end of the suspension will definitely make you wish you had done both
front without rear isn't as bad as rear without front
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Old November 2nd, 2012, 08:08 AM   #49
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i would do the same but my dirty bars are in the way :/
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Old November 2nd, 2012, 06:53 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alex.s View Post
but with the front setup correctly it really highlights the rearend... time for a new rear shock i think :P i run the R1 shock which is dirt cheap and easy to work on... but you have to use the r1 shock knuckle and make your own links if you want to go that route. but only doing one end of the suspension will definitely make you wish you had done both
front without rear isn't as bad as rear without front
Actually, the rear will be my next upgrade. I was planning on going for a GSXR 600 rear shock with a racetech 8.5kg/mm spring. That should set me back by a total of 180-200$ shipped to India. The only problem is the spring guy doesn't ship directly to India, so I'll have to ask the guy who sells me the shock to ship that for me as well...
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Old November 4th, 2012, 05:33 PM   #51
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whats the stock spring rate for the gsxr600
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Old November 4th, 2012, 06:31 PM   #52
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9.3 or so... I was recommended a rear spring rate of 8.0 by race tech... So 8.5 is close enough.
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Old April 8th, 2014, 06:22 PM   #53
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Might try an do a take on this in the near future. Here is what i have going on.

So i bought these chinese preload adjusters off flea bay for $38.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-FORK-C...a5d547&vxp=mtr

They are 37mm but threaded for 34mm 1.5pitch. The inner top tube diameter or stock new gen tubes is around 1.25", close to 32mm. I thought about trying to thread the inner tube for 34mm but after some research 34mm tapes are hella expensive and there is always a chance i ruin my upper fork tube so then i would be out $$$ for the tap and $$$ for new forks.... not really worth it IMO.

So next idea. I will take the cheap chinese Preload adj. and cannibalize them to use in conjunction with this DIY to make them look perdy.

Will drill and thread OEM fork cap for the adjuster screw from the Chinese adjusters and that would create a functional preload adjuster, but then i will cut off the top of the Chinese adjuster at lower part of o-ring which is the distance of gap from OEM cap to top of fork tube. That part will really just sit on top of the OEM fork cap and give the appearance of aftermarket preload adjusters.

Given the tools and the ability $38ish for the parts (Chinese adjusters) isn't terrible compared to $140 for sato or $99 for knock offs. I already have these chinese adjusters so i don't have much to lose, if i mess up the OEM caps or they don't work i will just buy aftermarket adjusters regardless.

original DIY could be done much cheaper but this should be fairly plug and play with the hardware with a more refined look.

More to come, i will need to buy a tap for the adjuster screw but first i need to figure out size and pitch. Should be a lot cheaper for an ~3/8th tap vs 34mm tap Even the cheap Chinese 34mm tap was $90, i offered $50 they declined lol
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Old April 8th, 2014, 06:36 PM   #54
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if you don't have a lathe, stick it in a drill, tape the drill to the table in the on position, then use a metal file and your calipers to bring it down to the correct size. you can lock your chuck onto that end piece
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Old April 8th, 2014, 06:46 PM   #55
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i have a drill press and vise so that should be good enough but will remember your suggestion about taping drill to table for future endeavors when it is not handy
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Old April 8th, 2014, 07:00 PM   #56
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drill press probably works better than a normal drill. if you can chuck up the piece. you might not be able to with a normal chuck. they have lathe-style 3 tooth chucks that fit into a standard drill chuck
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Old April 11th, 2014, 06:50 PM   #57
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So i think i have everything i need for this.

Got the cheap chinese adjuster, check, i have one of the tops hacked off of one and it seems like it will work very nicely as a cover and give a good look and I will use the actual chinese adjuster bolt/screw in the stock fork caps

I have stock fork caps
I have 11/64 drill bit (drill size for a 10mm tap)
I just bought a metric tap set that includes a 10mm 1.5 pitch tap. (Diameter and pitch of chinese adjuster bolt)

Just need to get to it. might have some time tomorrow to give it a go.
I am optimistic.

Needing to buy the tap set set me back $50 in the end, so $40 for the chinese adjuster and $50 for the tap set puts me at $90 so that is not really cheap, and you could buy cheap adjusters for $90, but IMO you can't think of it that way as i now have a tap set that i can use for the rest of my life given i take care of it. But if you already have the tools i think this could be a good option to save $60-$90 on adjusters

more to come, ill add up some pics to
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Old April 13th, 2014, 02:32 PM   #58
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drilled, tapped, fitted everything up today

Fit, finish and looks i give it a 9/10
Ill put up some pics later tonight when i get a chance.

Functionality... well... how about a 3/10
The adjusters work perfectly but... my screw/threads leak like a sieve.

I actually seen this coming but i still have yet to figure out what i am going to do about it and still maintain the functional point of preload adjusters.

The pitch of the chinese adjuster screw is pretty high 1.5, if it was lower and it threaded a little tighter the threads might have held, but given this they do not. The threads are fairly loose.

I know Alex s mentions fitting an oring in the system somewhere, and i think that is the way to go, just need to figure it out
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Old April 13th, 2014, 02:35 PM   #59
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how about wrapping the threads with teflon plumber's tape.
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Old April 13th, 2014, 02:46 PM   #60
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^ cheap, and quick and easy, ill definitely try it. But will need to make sure no way of introducing the teflon into the forks, so maybe only use it on the top half of the threads or so? ill see
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Old April 13th, 2014, 05:35 PM   #61
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i used grease and gasket maker

ie- gasket maker the bolt threads first, then once it dries and is good, remove it and grease it
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Old April 13th, 2014, 07:03 PM   #62
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pics of my junk

First pic is chinese adjuster before i to center screw out and washer off bottom and then hacked top off
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCN1485.jpg (71.1 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN1488.jpg (48.8 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN1489.jpg (139.3 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN1492.jpg (155.6 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN1495.jpg (122.1 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg DSCN1504.jpg (104.1 KB, 18 views)
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Old April 13th, 2014, 07:11 PM   #63
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Nicely done
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Old April 13th, 2014, 07:28 PM   #64
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^thanks, like i said earlier, i am really happy with the way they look and partially function, just need to get them air tight, tight like a tiger
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Old April 13th, 2014, 07:47 PM   #65
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Do you think it would work on a 300? It looks great.
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Old April 14th, 2014, 05:47 AM   #66
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I'm pretty sure 300 has same fork diameter as 250, so it would work the exact same.

Again you would need to get the threads sealed up though, right now they leak air and is not acceptable. Will try to seal them this week sometime when I get a chance.

As I kind of said earlier this isn't the cheapest DIY and most people would probably be better off buying one of the cheaper aftermarket adjusters.

Since I already had the Chinese ones, I bought to specifically fiddle with to see if they would work as is and did not work, I figured I would see if I could not make them work one way or another. Idealistically, you could just thread the inner fork to accept the threads of the Chinese adjuster and wham bam done. But if you don't have a 34mm tap handy it is no that easy as a tap that large costs over $100 and defeats the purpose of a "cheap DIY"

But $40 for the adjusters, and time and tools and you can get this to work. But would it be easier just to spring for an additional $60 for adjusters that work out of the box?
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Old April 21st, 2014, 10:27 AM   #67
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Just to update, the Teflon tape seemed to work at stopping any air leak at the adjuster screw. I put the Teflon up high on the screw so it should not get introduced into the fork tube as it will never get that far down. I will ride the bike like this for a while and keep checking to see if it springs any leaks, Figure it should be fine though.
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Old September 1st, 2014, 07:57 AM   #68
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Any updates?
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Old September 1st, 2014, 08:11 AM   #69
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from me? yeah, no problems been riding for awhile, i haven't noticed any air leaks. I'm happy with it.
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Old May 14th, 2020, 05:57 AM   #70
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Im reviving the thread!

I thought of doing this same modification to my BMW and sealing the adjuster threads with teflon tape. Then i gave it a quick google search. Low and behold, it has been done already. Since this is the only thread i can find on the internet with this modification, i have some questions.

Subxero, do you still have the bike? Hows it holding up? Anything you would do differently?
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