Dropped a nut in cam chain chamber!!!

[vmlp]

I was doing the valve clearance check & adjustment on my ninja ex250 today. When i was doing intake valve adjustment, Found the adjusting screw was not moving! after many attempts....the edges of lock nut got damaged...somehow i was able to remove it from the cam...but while i was taking it out it dropped in the cam chain box (Chamber! - sorry I'm not sure what it called!!).
I am going to buy a magnetic-bit screw driver to find the nut in cam chain box! Is there any better way to get the nut out?
The 2nd question is: Since the valve clearance adjusting screw is not turning for the one of intake valve...What is best way to get this one done? (I already tried with bigger screw-driver but no luck and I don't want to damaged the head of the screw).

Please help.
Thanks in advance!

[Alex]

Youch! No real advice, but hope that those more capable than me follow me into this thread with some words of wisdom.

[CmichRider]

Go fishing and good luck. I dropped a socket in there while doing valves. Thought it was lost forever but I was able to get it out with a magnetic reach tool.

[EthioKnight]

That must suck bruh, I'm planning on doing my valves (7150 miles) now that my bike's stationary, and I'll make sure to ber extra careful. Good luck mate.

[Racer x]

Get a magnet on an flexable aluminum stick . Be careful, don't turn anything. You have to get that nut out. If it jams it will blow a hole in the case or cause the timing to jump if it gets cought in the chain. I always stuff rags in there when working with the valve cover off.

[vmlp]

Originally Posted by Racer x

Get a magnet on an flexable aluminum stick . Be careful, don't turn anything. You have to get that nut out. If it jams it will blow a hole in the case or cause the timing to jump if it gets cought in the chain. I always stuff rags in there when working with the valve cover off.

Thanks all for responding.
I will try a flex screw driver with magnetic bit...I will let you guys know
if that worked or not.

[flynjay]

If you can't fish it out from above, the next step is to remove the clutch cover and look for it in the bottom.

Be aware that you will have to drain the oil and possibly replace the clutch cover seal (it is paper and very easy to damage).

[Racer x]

You will be able to find it that way. Before you go that far. I can take some photos for you of the inside where the nut might be hiding.

[alex.s]

maybe if the magnet doesn't work take that clutch side cover off... if i remember right the crank shaft sprocket that connects to the cam chain is right there... the chain guides are kinda in the way but it might help.

edit: oh i should read all the responses first huh

[vmlp]

Originally Posted by Racer x

You will be able to find it that way. Before you go that far. I can take some photos for you of the inside where the nut might be hiding.

Thanks Racer X and Alex s.
That would be helpful.
Alex S. - Great! Please if you can post some pictures of it!

Thanks again.
Vmlp

[vmlp]

Originally Posted by vmlp

Thanks Racer X and Alex s.
That would be helpful.
Alex S. - Great! Please if you can post some pictures of it!

Thanks again.
Vmlp

Hello All,
Finally...I removed the nut from Cam chain well!
I had to remove the valve-cam shaft and move the chain on side in order to make more room and used a cloth-hanger wire to pop the nut out!
Now i just need do the cam timing adjustment and hopefully that will be little easier!

Thanks to all for your great support.
Vmlp

[Racer x]

Set things up by the book . Crank at #T2 . Then the cams with the in and ex up and to the out side with the line level with the valve cover gasket serface. The front of the chain needs to be tight when you assemble it and the back side chain slack will be taken up by the tensioner. Then crank it around by hand two times to check the lines and T2 mark

[vmlp]

Originally Posted by Racer x

Set things up by the book . Crank at #T2 . Then the cams with the in and ex up and to the out side with the line level with the valve cover gasket serface. The front of the chain needs to be tight when you assemble it and the back side chain slack will be taken up by the tensioner. Then crank it around by hand two times to check the lines and T2 mark

Thanks Racer x,
You are the best.
I am planning to do it this friday once i get my new cam chain tensioner arrives.
one question, Do i need to count the chain links from EX line to IN line?
Thanks for your help.
Vmlp

[Racer x]

Only if you counted them before you took it apart. Just make sure lhe lines are flat and crank it around by hand to check

[Stingray1000]

"Dropped a nut in the CAM Chamber"??? Is that what the kids are calling it these days?

[vmlp]

Originally Posted by Racer x

Only if you counted them before you took it apart. Just make sure lhe lines are flat and crank it around by hand to check

Thanks Racer x,
No..I did not counted before taking it apart!.
Thanks again,
Vmlp

[vmlp]

Originally Posted by Stingray1000

"Dropped a nut in the CAM Chamber"??? Is that what the kids are calling it these days?

Dear Stingray,
Please excuse my wording....(Should I say 'Cam chain well'?)But experts on this forum got the message i wanted to convey.

[Stingray1000]

Originally Posted by vmlp

Dear Stingray,
Please excuse my wording....(Should I say 'Cam chain well'?)But experts on this forum got the message i wanted to convey.

I was creating a sexual joke... lol put your mind in the gutter to understand my posts.

[adamjenkum]

i know this thread has been dead for a few months, but when i drop something in the engine i use a homemade tool made from a real long spade bit with a magnet from a old hard disk drive stuck to the flat area of the bit with tape wrapped around it so it does not stick to the cam chain or other ferrous metal parts. I also try to shine a light inside sometimes I can see the socket or nut i have dropped in there, the hd magnets are super strong too.