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Old October 16th, 2021, 08:53 PM   #121
BonelessSugar
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Popped out the small one, the large pot needed to stay clamped to build pressure in the small one. Drained, sanded the caliper, pulled corrosion out of the gasket areas with a pick, sanded the pots down, should be all good when the seals come in. Of course I had to spill over all the brake fluid in the catch container when I was done. Classic. I'll probably end up going back in here with some steel wool and a screwdriver or something and getting the rest of the crud out of those seal galleys.

I'm thinking about leaving the banjo bolts untouched because I didn't need to remove them. Would it be a good idea to replace their washers, or am I fine to leave them alone?

Service schedule seems to say that I should replace the brake hoses by now, so I guess I'll order some of those and do the banjo bolt washers with them?

Same with fuel hoses.

Schedule also says to replace the master cylinder cup and dust seal, but it seems fine so I'll probably leave that alone unless told otherwise.

I have absolutely no idea how necessary any of this stuff is.
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Old October 16th, 2021, 09:10 PM   #122
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I would say your fine to leave the washers on the banjo bolts IF IT ISN'T BROKE DON'T fix it lol that's what they say.... But good looking progress on it pretty soon she will breath in and
come back to life
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Old October 17th, 2021, 07:15 AM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonelessSugar View Post
Popped out the small one, the large pot needed to stay clamped to build pressure in the small one. Drained, sanded the caliper, pulled corrosion out of the gasket areas with a pick, sanded the pots down, should be all good when the seals come in. Of course I had to spill over all the brake fluid in the catch container when I was done. Classic. I'll probably end up going back in here with some steel wool and a screwdriver or something and getting the rest of the crud out of those seal galleys.

I'm thinking about leaving the banjo bolts untouched because I didn't need to remove them. Would it be a good idea to replace their washers, or am I fine to leave them alone?

Service schedule seems to say that I should replace the brake hoses by now, so I guess I'll order some of those and do the banjo bolt washers with them?

Same with fuel hoses.

Schedule also says to replace the master cylinder cup and dust seal, but it seems fine so I'll probably leave that alone unless told otherwise.

I have absolutely no idea how necessary any of this stuff is.
Be sure to scott bright the bore and cylinder and it same as doing car disc caliper assembly ho what fun LoL be sure get some sil-glyde lube
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Old October 19th, 2021, 01:34 PM   #124
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Good job on caliper-rebuild! Better now than in year when brakes lock-up on you! Yeah, silicone-lube for seals. Don't use petroleum grease because it'll degrade your seals! Might even be why yours were in bad shape.
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Old October 19th, 2021, 08:06 PM   #125
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Gunna try some epoxy with bent nails to pull dent from tank, then maybe try welding studs to the tank to pull them if that doesn't work. Otherwise just making a bracket and filling the area.

idea source
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Old October 19th, 2021, 08:09 PM   #126
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skip epoxy, not gonna work. Force required is way beyond its strength.

Try brazing some bolts on head-first and using slide hammer. Removing bolt is easy afterwards, just heat up brass until it's liquid and pull off bolt.
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Old October 19th, 2021, 08:11 PM   #127
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Don't underestimate the possibility of an explosion if you weld to the tank. I made a curved steel bar to go in through the filler hole to push out dents and got them to be less than 1/8" everywhere on my bashed up tank, so Bondo could finish the job well. I had to re-curve the bar a couple times to reach every dent. The tank is made of thin, easy to bend sheet metal, so pushing out the dents was pretty easy.
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Old October 19th, 2021, 08:13 PM   #128
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Sure, I'll try that first then
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Old October 20th, 2021, 07:49 AM   #129
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Gunna try some epoxy with bent nails to pull dent from tank, then maybe try welding studs to the tank to pull them if that doesn't work. Otherwise just making a bracket and filling the area.

idea source
Note: If going weld it besure to fill it with water or can used car engine exhaust to pump it in to tank.
The depend on the epoxy JB Weld Tank Weld should work but the best way to repair the tank is by Brazing rod but I was you I run 1 gallon evapo-rust and nuts and bolt and clean it out then get repair and used tank sealer after wards.
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Old October 20th, 2021, 08:24 AM   #130
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heh, heh... always test for residual petrol vapours before welding on tank...



one way to fix dent is to pour 2cc petrol in tank. Drop in remote ignitor for model rockets. Close up cap and shake well. Then hide around corner of building and push button! Might not like perfectly round shape of tank afterwards though!
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Old October 20th, 2021, 02:07 PM   #131
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He may be dumb, but what we wouldn't all give for that magnificent mane...
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Old October 20th, 2021, 02:20 PM   #132
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heh, heh... always test for residual petrol vapours before welding on tank...
one way to fix dent is to pour 2cc petrol in tank. Drop in remote ignitor for model rockets. Close up cap and shake well. Then hide around corner of building and push button! Might not like perfectly round shape of tank afterwards though!
Epic WIN
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Old October 20th, 2021, 02:42 PM   #133
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He may be dumb, but what we wouldn't all give for that magnificent mane...
oh YES! I'm starting to lose hair in my old age!!!
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Old October 20th, 2021, 03:39 PM   #134
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Old October 24th, 2021, 12:39 PM   #135
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Been trying to figure out the brazing thing. Got a few things I need to braze together. Couldn't figure out the bottle setup for a bit, then I was having a problem with the oxygen coming out for a couple hours, and now I don't have the right rods or flux. :/ rod selection, and the kit gave me 3/4 of them but not the AL3. So guess I need to buy some rods and powdered flux, but not sure what kind of flux or where or how much or anything. I tried with some of the rods supplied but they just blob on and don't stick.
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Old October 24th, 2021, 02:46 PM   #136
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Brazing aluminum is tricky stuff at best. Why not get an eBay replacement peg?
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Old October 24th, 2021, 04:49 PM   #137
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I've got at least 4 other things I have to braze, so it's easy to start with something I can replace for $35 if need be than $350.
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Old October 24th, 2021, 05:10 PM   #138
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I've got at least 4 other things I have to braze, so it's easy to start with something I can replace for $35 if need be than $350.
I've brazed aluminum with Lumiweld a few times. It works OK, but if you ever decide you're rather weld it, you have to get every speck of the aluminum brazing rod out first. If it's something important I highly recommend TIG instead.
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Old October 24th, 2021, 09:04 PM   #139
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Brazing aluminium is easily 10x more difficult than steel. That's why small torche kit doesn't include alloy rod; anyone doing it is going to pro-welder with decades experience and has big pro torche.

You have to sand both sides to bare metal to remove the oxide layer. Wipe with acetone to remove all grease and oils (use gloves to avoid skin oils from getting on it). Flux used should be matched to base alloy, not generic like steel brazing flux.

Then temperature cannot be determined by glow of metal since aluminium doesn't glow when it gets hot. Very narrow window between proper temp for brazing vs. couple more degrees and you've melted it into useless puddles. While claims of alloy brazing as having strength in 45-60kpsi range, in my experience, it's closer to 30kpsi, or just about 1/2 of 6000-series alloy. Not really worth it, unless it's non-structural decorative item.

Welding is really only way to join aluminium reliably with strength. While you can TIG weld alloy with reverse-polarity DC (cheaper machine), it's A LOT easier with high-frequency AC unit. I can actual weld beer cans together with one!

Starting out, I suggest starting with brazing some steel items together 1st. Much, much easier to learn that way. Flux-coated brass rods removes some of difficulty with mixing and applying proper amount to joint so you can focus just on heat and rod.

I'll post series of photos on how to fit that foot-peg into rearsets.
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Old October 25th, 2021, 06:02 AM   #140
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Welding is really only way to join aluminium reliably with strength. While you can TIG weld alloy with reverse-polarity DC (cheaper machine), it's A LOT easier with high-frequency AC unit.
You're right that AC is best for welding aluminum, but the HF is for starting the arc. The welding current comes from much lower frequency AC, often 60 Hz in the US, but with inverter units it can be variable in a range from very low to a couple hundred Hz.
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Old October 25th, 2021, 07:08 AM   #141
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yes sorry, I should've been more clear. HF AC makes it easier to start without immediately punching hole though material from being too close or touching
and sticking.
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Old October 27th, 2021, 11:26 PM   #142
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OK, here's how to install footpeg into rearset.



Footpeg parts assembled in order:


First, put spring into bottom of peg


Place upper plate with pivot into spring. With bent ledge parallel and against flat side of peg


view from other side


and from another angle
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Old October 28th, 2021, 12:09 AM   #143
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Next, place bottom plate with bent flat ledge on other side of peg


view from other side


Now, squeeze whole stack together


Should look like this
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Old October 28th, 2021, 12:20 AM   #144
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Now, slide entire assembly into rearset clevis with peg aimed backwards


view from bottom. Note curved outline of bottom plate matches clevis


Shove assembly all way in


Install pivot-pin


push pin in deep enough so head is flush with hole


view from bottom


install washer and E-clip


TADA!!!


Flip peg forwards and we're done!!!
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Old October 28th, 2021, 07:44 PM   #145
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I didn't realize aluminum brazing/welding was different than other metals. guess that's where experience comes in.

sorry danno, it's the front peg, not the rear. the angle is different (and length is slightly longer) so I chopped my non-mint one in half to repair my cracked one. mailing my handlebar out tomorrow.

rods I'm picking up friday, might get 4 instead of 2 for extra

seems straightforward. heat the peg (without melting it) (mapp or propane, doesn't seem to matter other than mapp is faster), heat the rod (without melting it) to melt the flux into the gap, then press non-melted rod into heated gap. voila.

only question I've got is if I should cut some sort of wedge to help strengthen the two together or if I should just leave as much original material as possible.

I'll circle back tomorrow with results or more problems.

Quote:
While claims of alloy brazing as having strength in 45-60kpsi range, in my experience, it's closer to 30kpsi, or just about 1/2 of 6000-series alloy. Not really worth it, unless it's non-structural decorative item.

Welding is really only way to join aluminium reliably with strength. While you can TIG weld alloy
kinda worried about this part, but not so much. not ready to drop $1k on a nice TIG rig when I can't even use a 240 outlet.
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Old October 28th, 2021, 08:23 PM   #146
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kinda worried about this part, but not so much. not ready to drop $1k on a nice TIG rig when I can't even use a 240 outlet.
A good inverter type TIG machine will automatically adapt to 120VAC or 240VAC, and do plenty of heavy welding on 120. You do have to commit to the investment though. For a couple jobs here and there a welding shop may be a better deal.

Not all aluminum alloys are weldable either. For example, any of the alloys that contain a significant amount of copper, like 2024 are not. Some castings I've tried to weld didn't cooperate at all.
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Old October 28th, 2021, 08:35 PM   #147
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That IS rear peg fitted on front. Note the brake pedal. Fits and works fine. I've had those on both sides of my pre-gen for couple years before going to 300 rearsets.

Try some of this stuff, works better than the AL3 rods
https://www.alumiweld.com/
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Old October 28th, 2021, 08:42 PM   #148
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ah mb! I was reading rearset and thought that it had to be the rear of the bike.
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Old October 29th, 2021, 05:59 PM   #149
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Weld stuck until I tried to take it out of the vice and wiggle it, then same thing happened where it just didn't stick to the aluminum. Takes a lot of heat and the point between the stick melting and the aluminum melting is real close while trying to keep the aluminum hot enough. Was having a hell of a time with just mapp so I added the oxygen that was hooked up. Bummed. Gunna try again and clean it better and see if it works at all.
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Old October 29th, 2021, 06:25 PM   #150
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One way to braze aluminum is to heat the part while rubbing the rod on it until the rod just starts to melt. Then use the melting rod to scrape the veed out joint, so that you break up the aluminum oxide. The melted rod prevents oxygen from getting to the joint so the oxide doesn't re-form. Then get the heat down to the plastic temperature for the rod and fill the joint. You can also use a stainless steel wire brush to help break up the oxide layer, rather than just the rod itself. No flux is used for this.

But I've been through this, and for a foot peg that could cause a crash if it broke at the wrong time, I'd either TIG it or buy a new peg. Unless you've done this process many times and have that experience, you really won't know that the joint is truly cleaned of oxide, so it may or may not be as strong as the base metal.
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Old October 29th, 2021, 06:37 PM   #151
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Cleaned it up. The melty temperature was a lot easier to figure out this time. It's just not sticking how I want it to. Might need to buy actual flux, might not be the right aluminum, could be the oxide layer you were talking about, or might just have the wrong sticks. It's strong enough with one layer of like 6 (inner bottom, inner both sides, outer top, outer both sides). Can't break it with pliers, but didn't flow into the joint no matter how much I tried to persuade it. It's PROBABLY strong enough, but I'm just gunna order some flux for $15 and snap it in my vice with a long metal pipe and try again next week. If it doesn't work I'll delegate it to the passages pegs that I don't use or just toss it.
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Old October 29th, 2021, 07:51 PM   #152
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I'm not sure if you read my post above. I don't think it would ever work without veeing the joint and filling it.

Last futzed with by Triple Jim; October 30th, 2021 at 11:05 AM.
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Old October 29th, 2021, 08:39 PM   #153
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Cleaned it up. The melty temperature was a lot easier to figure out this time. It's just not sticking how I want it to. Might need to buy actual flux, might not be the right aluminum, could be the oxide layer you were talking about, or might just have the wrong sticks. It's strong enough with one layer of like 6 (inner bottom, inner both sides, outer top, outer both sides). Can't break it with pliers, but didn't flow into the joint no matter how much I tried to persuade it. It's PROBABLY strong enough, but I'm just gunna order some flux for $15 and snap it in my vice with a long metal pipe and try again next week. If it doesn't work I'll delegate it to the passages pegs that I don't use or just toss it.
why not just buy one off ebay and save your self a lot of headache
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Old October 30th, 2021, 10:23 AM   #154
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Well, it's not just about end-results, he could've bought running bike. The challenge and learning experience is worthwhile as well.



These pieces need to be much, much cleaner, especially one on left. Sand surfaces all around at least 2-3cm away from joint. Use Dremel tools to get inside curve. Scrub with stainless wire-brush. Wipe down with acetone. Also V-notch joint all around both pieces to get channel for solder to flow into.



And you need A LOT more heat. You had to smear the stuff on with rod, it didn't flow. Even though aluminium melts at lower-temps than steel, its much higher thermal-conductivity means heat that's applied, flows away from joint super fast. When welding aluminium, I have to turn power settings up 2-3x higher than for welding steel. What you have in this case is peg only gets as hot as vise because all the heat flows away from joint. You'll want to insulate peg from vise with 3-4mm layer of fibreglass on either side, or silicone kitchen mat. V-notch also helps increase heat at joint.

One aid to show adequate heat is to coat joint with soot beforehand. Start with only yellow gas flame. Aim sooty end of it onto workpiece and coat joint until it's completely black. Then turn on oxygen and increase gas until you get 3" blue flame. Increase oxygen again until you get 1" white flame. Heat joint evenly moving flame back & forth across entire length of joint. When soot burns off and disappears, joint is up to temp. Then apply brazing-rod. It should melt and wet-out on contact. At this point, you want to heat from underneath to draw solder through joint. Apply more solder to top as it gets pulled in.

Notice how it flowed away from contact point in 1st section of this video? Shows proper clean surface prep along with adequate heat. Concave profile of solder at end of video shows clean surface and sufficient heat to flow.
https://he.aliexpress.com/i/1005001623898303.html
(copy & paste URL to new tab/window, if clicking link didn't work)

also... clean and LOTS of heat!

Link to original page on YouTube.

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Old October 30th, 2021, 12:24 PM   #155
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Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
Well, it's not just about end-results, he could've bought running bike. The challenge and learning experience is worthwhile as well.



These pieces need to be much, much cleaner, especially one on left. Sand surfaces all around at least 2-3cm away from joint. Use Dremel tools to get inside curve. Scrub with stainless wire-brush. Wipe down with acetone. Also V-notch joint all around both pieces to get channel for solder to flow into.



And you need A LOT more heat. You had to smear the stuff on with rod, it didn't flow. Even though aluminium melts at lower-temps than steel, its much higher thermal-conductivity means heat that's applied, flows away from joint super fast. When welding aluminium, I have to turn power settings up 2-3x higher than for welding steel. What you have in this case is peg only gets as hot as vise because all the heat flows away from joint. You'll want to insulate peg from vise with 3-4mm layer of fibreglass on either side, or silicone kitchen mat. V-notch also helps increase heat at joint.

One aid to show adequate heat is to coat joint with soot beforehand. Start with only yellow gas flame. Aim sooty end of it onto workpiece and coat joint until it's completely black. Then turn on oxygen and increase gas until you get 3" blue flame. Increase oxygen again until you get 1" white flame. Heat joint evenly moving flame back & forth across entire length of joint. When soot burns off and disappears, joint is up to temp. Then apply brazing-rod. It should melt and wet-out on contact. At this point, you want to heat from underneath to draw solder through joint. Apply more solder to top as it gets pulled in.

Notice how it flowed away from contact point in 1st section of this video? Shows proper clean surface prep along with adequate heat. Concave profile of solder at end of video shows clean surface and sufficient heat to flow.
https://he.aliexpress.com/i/1005001623898303.html
(copy & paste URL to new tab/window, if clicking link didn't work)

also... clean and LOTS of heat!

Link to original page on YouTube.

In some case's it worth welding but it depend on the part but in case it not worth the risk as aluminum is very challenging even for experience welder and cast aluminum should be done with TIG welder as Brazing aluminum with a propane torch is wrong type to be using and this is the right way to do if do cast parts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNC8Uivmqwk" TARGET="_blank">Link to original page on YouTube.

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Old October 30th, 2021, 12:31 PM   #156
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eh? that certainly looks like aluminium brazing with gas torche
as well.

yeah, welding is best. As Jim mentioned, some alloys can't be welded at all. Although those are high-strength, fatigue-resistant versions we're not likely to find laying around. Mainly used for aircraft, aerospace and military applications.

OP hasn't fully optimised brazed joint yet. For this footpeg application, it should be more than adequate.

For even more strength, after joining 2 halves, I would install 2" long 1/2" alloy tube underneath peg and braze that on along outer edges as well.

Link to original page on YouTube.


Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; October 30th, 2021 at 01:35 PM.
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Old October 30th, 2021, 12:37 PM   #157
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yeah, welding is best. As Jim mentioned, some alloys can't be welded at all. Although those are high-strength, fatigue-resistant versions we're not likely to find laying around. Mainly used for aircraft, aerospace and military applications.

OP hasn't fully optimised brazed joint yet. For this application, it should be more than adequate.
You do know that many of the aerospace parts has to be replace and then x-ray recertified you can't just weld it up.
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Old October 30th, 2021, 01:09 PM   #158
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You do know that many of the aerospace parts has to be replace and then x-ray recertified you can't just weld it up.
yup... welding these alloys causes cracks just beyond HAZ that breaks years later. You're basically pre-fatiguing the parts by welding it.

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; October 30th, 2021 at 06:48 PM.
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Old October 31st, 2021, 12:29 PM   #159
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I've been trying to dissolve ABS pellets in acetone for a few days now, but it doesn't seem like it's dissolving like it's supposed to, or mixing with the acetone like it's supposed to. At the bottom there's some disintegrated ABS, but no mixture, and still a lot of acetone and full pellets left.
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Old October 31st, 2021, 12:52 PM   #160
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Originally Posted by BonelessSugar View Post
I've been trying to dissolve ABS pellets in acetone for a few days now, but it doesn't seem like it's dissolving like it's supposed to, or mixing with the acetone like it's supposed to. At the bottom there's some disintegrated ABS, but no mixture, and still a lot of acetone and full pellets left.
ABS dissolves quickly in acetone, so either that's not ABS or that's not acetone, or both.
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