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Old October 17th, 2021, 07:15 AM   #121
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Originally Posted by BonelessSugar View Post
Popped out the small one, the large pot needed to stay clamped to build pressure in the small one. Drained, sanded the caliper, pulled corrosion out of the gasket areas with a pick, sanded the pots down, should be all good when the seals come in. Of course I had to spill over all the brake fluid in the catch container when I was done. Classic. I'll probably end up going back in here with some steel wool and a screwdriver or something and getting the rest of the crud out of those seal galleys.

I'm thinking about leaving the banjo bolts untouched because I didn't need to remove them. Would it be a good idea to replace their washers, or am I fine to leave them alone?

Service schedule seems to say that I should replace the brake hoses by now, so I guess I'll order some of those and do the banjo bolt washers with them?

Same with fuel hoses.

Schedule also says to replace the master cylinder cup and dust seal, but it seems fine so I'll probably leave that alone unless told otherwise.

I have absolutely no idea how necessary any of this stuff is.
Be sure to scott bright the bore and cylinder and it same as doing car disc caliper assembly ho what fun LoL be sure get some sil-glyde lube
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Old October 19th, 2021, 01:34 PM   #122
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Good job on caliper-rebuild! Better now than in year when brakes lock-up on you! Yeah, silicone-lube for seals. Don't use petroleum grease because it'll degrade your seals! Might even be why yours were in bad shape.
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Old October 19th, 2021, 08:06 PM   #123
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Gunna try some epoxy with bent nails to pull dent from tank, then maybe try welding studs to the tank to pull them if that doesn't work. Otherwise just making a bracket and filling the area.

idea source
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Old October 19th, 2021, 08:09 PM   #124
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skip epoxy, not gonna work. Force required is way beyond its strength.

Try brazing some bolts on head-first and using slide hammer. Removing bolt is easy afterwards, just heat up brass until it's liquid and pull off bolt.
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Old October 19th, 2021, 08:11 PM   #125
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Don't underestimate the possibility of an explosion if you weld to the tank. I made a curved steel bar to go in through the filler hole to push out dents and got them to be less than 1/8" everywhere on my bashed up tank, so Bondo could finish the job well. I had to re-curve the bar a couple times to reach every dent. The tank is made of thin, easy to bend sheet metal, so pushing out the dents was pretty easy.
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Old October 19th, 2021, 08:13 PM   #126
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Sure, I'll try that first then
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Old October 20th, 2021, 07:49 AM   #127
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Gunna try some epoxy with bent nails to pull dent from tank, then maybe try welding studs to the tank to pull them if that doesn't work. Otherwise just making a bracket and filling the area.

idea source
Note: If going weld it besure to fill it with water or can used car engine exhaust to pump it in to tank.
The depend on the epoxy JB Weld Tank Weld should work but the best way to repair the tank is by Brazing rod but I was you I run 1 gallon evapo-rust and nuts and bolt and clean it out then get repair and used tank sealer after wards.
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Old October 20th, 2021, 08:24 AM   #128
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heh, heh... always test for residual petrol vapours before welding on tank...



one way to fix dent is to pour 2cc petrol in tank. Drop in remote ignitor for model rockets. Close up cap and shake well. Then hide around corner of building and push button! Might not like perfectly round shape of tank afterwards though!
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Old October 20th, 2021, 02:07 PM   #129
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Old October 20th, 2021, 02:20 PM   #130
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heh, heh... always test for residual petrol vapours before welding on tank...
one way to fix dent is to pour 2cc petrol in tank. Drop in remote ignitor for model rockets. Close up cap and shake well. Then hide around corner of building and push button! Might not like perfectly round shape of tank afterwards though!
Epic WIN
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Old October 20th, 2021, 02:42 PM   #131
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Old October 20th, 2021, 03:39 PM   #132
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Old October 24th, 2021, 12:39 PM   #133
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Been trying to figure out the brazing thing. Got a few things I need to braze together. Couldn't figure out the bottle setup for a bit, then I was having a problem with the oxygen coming out for a couple hours, and now I don't have the right rods or flux. :/ rod selection, and the kit gave me 3/4 of them but not the AL3. So guess I need to buy some rods and powdered flux, but not sure what kind of flux or where or how much or anything. I tried with some of the rods supplied but they just blob on and don't stick.
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Old October 24th, 2021, 02:46 PM   #134
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Brazing aluminum is tricky stuff at best. Why not get an eBay replacement peg?
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Old October 24th, 2021, 04:49 PM   #135
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I've got at least 4 other things I have to braze, so it's easy to start with something I can replace for $35 if need be than $350.
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Old October 24th, 2021, 05:10 PM   #136
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I've got at least 4 other things I have to braze, so it's easy to start with something I can replace for $35 if need be than $350.
I've brazed aluminum with Lumiweld a few times. It works OK, but if you ever decide you're rather weld it, you have to get every speck of the aluminum brazing rod out first. If it's something important I highly recommend TIG instead.
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Old October 24th, 2021, 09:04 PM   #137
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Brazing aluminium is easily 10x more difficult than steel. That's why small torche kit doesn't include alloy rod; anyone doing it is going to pro-welder with decades experience and has big pro torche.

You have to sand both sides to bare metal to remove the oxide layer. Wipe with acetone to remove all grease and oils (use gloves to avoid skin oils from getting on it). Flux used should be matched to base alloy, not generic like steel brazing flux.

Then temperature cannot be determined by glow of metal since aluminium doesn't glow when it gets hot. Very narrow window between proper temp for brazing vs. couple more degrees and you've melted it into useless puddles. While claims of alloy brazing as having strength in 45-60kpsi range, in my experience, it's closer to 30kpsi, or just about 1/2 of 6000-series alloy. Not really worth it, unless it's non-structural decorative item.

Welding is really only way to join aluminium reliably with strength. While you can TIG weld alloy with reverse-polarity DC (cheaper machine), it's A LOT easier with high-frequency AC unit. I can actual weld beer cans together with one!

Starting out, I suggest starting with brazing some steel items together 1st. Much, much easier to learn that way. Flux-coated brass rods removes some of difficulty with mixing and applying proper amount to joint so you can focus just on heat and rod.

I'll post series of photos on how to fit that foot-peg into rearsets.
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Old Yesterday, 06:02 AM   #138
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Welding is really only way to join aluminium reliably with strength. While you can TIG weld alloy with reverse-polarity DC (cheaper machine), it's A LOT easier with high-frequency AC unit.
You're right that AC is best for welding aluminum, but the HF is for starting the arc. The welding current comes from much lower frequency AC, often 60 Hz in the US, but with inverter units it can be variable in a range from very low to a couple hundred Hz.
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Old Yesterday, 07:08 AM   #139
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yes sorry, I should've been more clear. HF AC makes it easier to start without immediately punching hole though material from being too close or touching
and sticking.
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