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Old October 16th, 2021, 08:52 PM   #1
Dizzy
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Exclamation Clutch Rebuild Kit Opinions!?!

So this link is for the plates and gasket that I'm just thinking about buying not OEM I believe but they are 4-5x less then OEM plate's and gasket on other sites soo....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/27125299117...hoC5jYQAvD_BwE
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Old October 16th, 2021, 09:00 PM   #2
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Arrow

Ok another opinion is too reinstall the factory plates only 10 miles on them but the sitting for 20 years with no maintenance bad oil may have ruined them zoom in on pictures and lmk what you thoughts are thanks everyone I need to pic up some more oil and fill it up and try shifting now reinstalled the clutch few hours ago Big Thanks to everyone helping me on this journey saving this ignored forgotten uncut gem she will shine soon I believe
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Old October 17th, 2021, 05:29 AM   #3
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I'd clean up the old ones and use them.
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Old October 17th, 2021, 12:07 PM   #4
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Plates look ok. I'd just re-use them. As you mentioned in other thread, if surface looks fuzzy and chewed up, clean and dry them. Lighty even out surface with fine sandpaper and throw them back in.

Clutch not releasing is usually cable adjustment. Tighten cable to where you have clutch-slipping problem. Then undo adjustment incrementally to where it does grip.

oh yeah, make sure your clutch-basket fingers are smooth. File them if edges are notched.


Pressure-plate needs to have dimples lined up.
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Old October 18th, 2021, 02:13 PM   #5
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I put the old one together how do I exactly adjust this clutch so I know that it's correct
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Old October 18th, 2021, 02:35 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dizzy View Post
I put the old one together how do I exactly adjust this clutch so I know that it's correct
The Wiki should have that information in the clutch and transmission section.

https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Ninja250_Howto
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Old October 18th, 2021, 02:50 PM   #7
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Ok so I did that but when shifting into first when it shifts out of neutral it shifts but tires not moving thinking tge friction plates are gone the oil was very black when I pulled the clutch cover off and was only in the bike 10 miles any ideas what it else it could maybe be? Ordering a gasket and a set of the EBC friction plates
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Old October 18th, 2021, 02:52 PM   #8
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There's no way clutch plates can get so bad that they won't drive you forward at all. I suspect something is wrong with the stack.
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Old October 18th, 2021, 02:57 PM   #9
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With the stack of plates? Well it started doing this after the clutch was stuck and it lostened up and let me shift and then when I shift into 1 it just revs when I let of the clutch revs doesn't die doesn't move forward or anything
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Old October 18th, 2021, 02:57 PM   #10
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Did you adjust cable-tension? Did you tighten it so much that clutch is semi-disengaged when lever is out? Indicator of proper tension is when engagement/disengagement point is about mid-way through lever travel.
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Old October 18th, 2021, 02:58 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Dizzy View Post
With the stack of plates? Well it started doing this after the clutch was stuck and it lostened up and let me shift and then when I shift into 1 it just revs when I let of the clutch revs doesn't die doesn't move forward or anything
Sounds kinda positive neutral-finder feature is engaged full time.
Did you leave out one plate by accident?
Sand off too much from each plate?
Or cable isn't slid into ferules at ends properly.
Or cable-adjusters are way, way too tight now.
Post photo of cable-adjusters at each end of cable.
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Old October 18th, 2021, 03:17 PM   #12
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Posting a video for y'all off the clutch cable adjustments etc
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Old October 18th, 2021, 03:20 PM   #13
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https://m.youtube.com/shorts/kCwcZaNDzFs?feature=share
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Old October 18th, 2021, 05:13 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dizzy View Post
You may go for ride go down road get some speed engagement the clutch and rev the motor while slow disengagement it do this a few time then while still driving rev the pop the clutch that should seat in new clutch or old dry clutch
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Old October 18th, 2021, 07:40 PM   #15
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It won't roll when I put it into 1st and let the clutch go is the problem I'm having I'll post a longer more descriptive on what exactly happened
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Old October 18th, 2021, 10:36 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dizzy View Post
With the stack of plates? Well it started doing this after the clutch was stuck and it lostened up and let me shift and then when I shift into 1 it just revs when I let of the clutch revs doesn't die doesn't move forward or anything
ah, this sounds like spring/pressure-plate isn't moving inwards and squeezing stack together.

1. did you put 2x clutch plates with wider blocks as 1st and last plates installed?

2. did you line up dimples on spring/pressure plate with basket? Even though there's multiple splines, the spring plate can only be installed in 2 possible orientations.

From the manual:

Quote:
"Fit the spring plate back into place, aligning the mark on the plate with the mark on the clutch hub."

Caution: Misalignment of the spring plate can cause clutch drag (when it is disengaged), or clutch slipping.
Earlier, your problem with clutch dragging and not fully releasing. Now it's not engaging at all.

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Old October 19th, 2021, 08:47 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
ah, this sounds like spring/pressure-plate isn't moving inwards and squeezing stack together.

1. did you put 2x clutch plates with wider blocks as 1st and last plates installed?

2. did you line up dimples on spring/pressure plate with basket? Even though there's multiple splines, the spring plate can only be installed in 2 possible orientations.

From the manual:

Earlier, your problem with clutch dragging and not fully releasing. Now it's not engaging at all.
From look of it his EX250 look like 2000 year model
Yup sound like he did something wrong
See the yellow circle they have line up
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Old October 19th, 2021, 09:09 AM   #18
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Yup, even though there's 4 spring posts and 4 possible ways to install spring/pressure plate, only TWO of orientations will work. Look carefully and you'll see that teeth next to some posts are raised and some are lowered. You can't just put in pressure-plate any which way. Have to line up dimple marks. Otherwise springs won't be able to push inwards on pressure-plate and compress stack.

https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...876#post915876






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Old October 21st, 2021, 11:27 AM   #19
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Exclamation

Quote:
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ View Post
ah, this sounds like spring/pressure-plate isn't moving inwards and squeezing stack together.

1. did you put 2x clutch plates with wider blocks as 1st and last plates installed?

2. did you line up dimples on spring/pressure plate with basket? Even though there's multiple splines, the spring plate can only be installed in 2 possible orientations.

From the manual:



Earlier, your problem with clutch dragging and not fully releasing. Now it's not engaging at all.

Yea but I had the problem before taking the clutch cover and clutch apart So that's What's confusing me i ordered some EBC friction plates so when I install them I'll pay attention to the dimples and stuff then see what happens
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Old October 21st, 2021, 06:19 PM   #20
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I thought you had clutch-dragging not fully releasing problem before?
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Old October 22nd, 2021, 04:38 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dizzy View Post
Yea but I had the problem before taking the clutch cover and clutch apart So that's What's confusing me i ordered some EBC friction plates so when I install them I'll pay attention to the dimples and stuff then see what happens
Hey Dustin put the bike up on kick arm then put it in first gear can you spin the rear wheel by hand or does it turn over the motor ?.
Now try with motor running but apply rear brakes what happen ?.
I think maybe the inner clutch basket some how got shared from its outer aluminum basket that attached to inner steel core or somehow they could have broken one of the transmission shaft in two.
You go back and recheck your work check clutch plate fitment with the springs in by manually turning it over.
Take the spark plugs out of the motor and user starter motor it gear and out gear with rear brake apply.
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Old October 22nd, 2021, 09:07 AM   #22
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Don't make a mountain out of a mole hill.... he just assembled it wrong.
he's got to go back in and assemble it right to work is all....
yah it's confusing if you think you did it all right and it don't work, but that is your first clue, if it don't work you did something wrong....do it again !
save your new clutch plates for later and continue fixing this clutch
the oil was black because of the clutch particles stuck to the plates , they rub off and make the oil black real fast !
take some emery cloth or steel wool and clean the marks off the steel plates
then assemble it like Danno said .... and it has to work ! with the clutch assembled and the clutch cover about to go on that clutch should be real solid if you can move a clutch plate with your finger it's not assembled right !
.....
my 2 coppers !
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Old October 22nd, 2021, 09:57 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
if you can move a clutch plate with your finger it's not assembled right !
.....
my 2 coppers !
Bob........
Oh yeah, test your work! After taking off side cover, you can reach in between fingers and jiggle the plates! That's because with pressure-plate not lined up with dimples, it gets hung up on raised teeth on outside of basket. Never compresses stack. Thus freewheeling in 1st gear! Good idea, see if you can wiggle clutch plates before putting cover back on!

BTW - I've run el-cheapo fleaBay clutch pack on my race-bike with 22% more power than stock for past 4-yrs without any problems! Spears gave me some stiffer springs, not sure if they were EBC or Barnett
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Old October 22nd, 2021, 01:10 PM   #24
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Thanks for the idea I plan on taking the clutch cover off and checking if my brother put it back on right but when the problem 1st occured I had never taken the clutch cover off it was stuck in gear then freed up clutch and then it stopped spinning the wheel and then that's when I pulled the clutch cover off
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Old October 22nd, 2021, 01:14 PM   #25
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In first gear it doesn't freepy spin there's a little bit of resistance when I turn it
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Old October 22nd, 2021, 04:49 PM   #26
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Yep your clutch is at fault...just re do the work... this time be sure you assemble it right per Danno's instructions and it will work like it should !
....
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Old October 23rd, 2021, 12:04 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Dizzy View Post
In first gear it doesn't freepy spin there's a little bit of resistance when I turn it
yeah, pressure-plate is hung up on outside. Shouldn't be able to spin it at all.
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Old October 25th, 2021, 04:54 PM   #28
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Thanks everyone I'm gonna pull it apart and see what my lil brother did wrong the EBC friction plates shipped today so I'm gonna just use the new plates when I put it back together and hopefully this will be the last thing and she's good to go ��
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Old October 29th, 2021, 11:20 AM   #29
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so pulled it apart and yup I could wiggle the plates a little bit putting the new friction plates in they sat in oil all last night so I hope after the gasket maker silicone sets and oil it up it's fine ��
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Old October 29th, 2021, 06:13 PM   #30
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And she's alive and running good gonna stay going 60 max for awhile to break it in I'll be back to report after riding it tomorrow
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Old October 29th, 2021, 07:13 PM   #31
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Well done ! sometimes these bikes can be a pain in the Keester ! but.... their worth it.... if you go ANYWHERE it's fun..... I can't say that for a car !
.... so I take it you found that the clutch was assembled incorectly the first time ?
.... hay we all make mistakes ! it's no biggy unless you failed to learn something ! LOL
...
I'm happy tonight, My parts for my Triumph 750 came and I got those beautiful mufflers on it already, got the air boxes all back on but the outside cover and the filters, and I'll put the clutch together tomorrow as I let the new clutch plates soak in oil over night.... then HOPEFULLY ...I can start it !
we shall see !
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Old October 29th, 2021, 07:50 PM   #32
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You fell for that overnight soak myth? I'm surprised at you!
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Old October 29th, 2021, 08:28 PM   #33
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LOL.... well, I figure it can't hurt...Triumphs are known for sticking clutches I figure why give it the chance ! ... I've never done it before and had zero troubles.... ...but.... I can wait to assemble the clutch tomorrow just as easy !
....... I have read several times that a 24 hr soak is necessary.... but I can't say that in my experience.... oil them good if their a wet clutch. is probably all they need how can soaking 24 hours help a material that will not absorb oil in the first place eh ?.... so maybe those guys are dealing with a different clutch type !
.... I know on the instructions they give for the RX4's clutch they say 24 hr soak
is needed.... why is another question ! HAHAHAHAHA!
....
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Old October 29th, 2021, 08:53 PM   #34
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They get oiled pretty quickly even if you put them in dry.
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Old October 30th, 2021, 04:10 AM   #35
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Cool

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You fell for that overnight soak myth? I'm surprised at you!
Nah I didn't I just drained the oil the night before and threw them in there didn't feel like pulling the clutch then I don't like riding at night so waited for the morning to change it and put new oil in it's good to go now going for a ride in a couple hours once it gets light
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Old October 30th, 2021, 05:02 AM   #36
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good luck Dizzy ! don't kill yourself on that thing Ride safely !
....
i have a Triumph clutch to assemble ...Weeeeee !
(why does it remind me of a big honda 50cc clutch ??? LOL)
...
Later !
Bob.......
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Old October 31st, 2021, 12:37 PM   #37
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Hay Triple jim , on your big 750 Kawasaki triple have you ever had to do clutch modifications to it? that beastie puts out alot of HP and if any clutch would slip I'd think it would be that one !
even the bikes that are claiming 120hp are just getting there by RPM's so in reality the HP is about the same they just have more RPM to deal with it.
(( which has got to be a Kick to ride !) but that's besides the point.)
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Old October 31st, 2021, 12:51 PM   #38
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It slipped when I got it in '78 and it was stock then. I put Barnett plates in it and it didn't slip until recently when I added reeds in the intake and did H2R porting to the cylinders. I shimmed the springs maybe 1/16" and it holds fine now.
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Old October 31st, 2021, 12:52 PM   #39
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in reality the HP is about the same they just have more RPM to deal with it.
Torque is same. Torque*RPM/5252=HP, so if you can maintain same torque into higher-RPMs, you get more HP. It's torque that slips clutches.
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