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Old October 3rd, 2017, 07:56 AM   #1
700C-ist
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Emissions smell ill-carburating, polluting

Hello,

I was reading threads about mixture screws and their caps removal. The 2010 blue R responses well to throttle other than when cold, but emissions are of the sort that would give you headtakes in no time (no smokes though, just the smell of heavily polluted, ill-burned gas).

So in other words, I need to depollute the carburation. Is it safe to say that there's nothing to tune in regards to the electronic ignition? Sealed black box? Leaving me with only the carburators to tune, most likely leaning it?

Thank you!
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Old October 3rd, 2017, 08:18 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 700C-ist View Post
Hello,

I was reading threads about mixture screws and their caps removal. The 2010 blue R responses well to throttle other than when cold, but emissions are of the sort that would give you headtakes in no time (no smokes though, just the smell of heavily polluted, ill-burned gas).

So in other words, I need to depollute the carburation. Is it safe to say that there's nothing to tune in regards to the electronic ignition? Sealed black box? Leaving me with only the carburators to tune, most likely leaning it?

Thank you!
That would suggest it's not tuned properly.

It's already lean from the factory, sometimes enough that it doesn't run right. Tuning it to idle and accelerate properly isn't going to create any more pollution.

Newer cycles have catalytic converters in the exhaust to clean them up, but I doubt a good-running 250 is doing much polluting - especially if you ride it in a way to maximize mileage.
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Old October 3rd, 2017, 08:24 AM   #3
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Welcome to the board, John.

If you're smelling a lot of unburned or partially burned fuel in the exhaust, maybe your air filter is clogged. Or maybe a float needle is leaking, causing the float level to be too high in that carb. Is it running smoothly at all times?
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Old October 3rd, 2017, 03:33 PM   #4
700C-ist
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Thank you Triple Jim and jkv45.

Yes runs smoothly, just cold start is the cold is dicey.
Idling is not the best, but I haven't had a bike in recent history, or heard one in the street, that was exempt from a idle and low-range rattling. Gas must be the cause, all my bikes had flawless idling in the eighties.

I know I would get headtakes quickly if breezing more than a few times its current emissions. Which I wouldn't with a 2 strokes Suzuki TS 125 I have too. So this is not some 'guessing' or perceived levels.

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll check these. Now are there still emissions tests facilities, or motorcycles shops equipped with sensors able to diagnose ill-carburation?
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Old October 3rd, 2017, 03:47 PM   #5
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You shouldn't need special diagnosis equipment to get a primitive carbureted engine running right on 10% ethanol gasoline. Start with the basics and we'll go from there.

If your valve clearances have tightened up, cold starting and warmup will be difficult. When I adjusted my '05's valves, it was like I had a new engine.
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Old October 4th, 2017, 06:46 AM   #6
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Can you get ethanol-free in your area?

I'm near Madison (WI) and have Cenex stations that have ethanol-free 87. Some have ethanol-free in all grades, but use 87 if it's available.

Look through this section - https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Intake

It covers how to make carb adjustments.

If you are running regular E10 now, you will most likely idle and run better on ethanol-free gas as it will richen the overall mixture. To really get it right you will need to be able to adjust the idle mixture screws. Baseline is 2.5 turns out. Many times the factory will have them set around 1.5. Some will be different from side to side. The proper adjustment changes, and will need to be adjusted richer (turned out) in cold temps and leaner (turned in) in hot temps.

If you are smelling gas, check that it's not coming from the floatbowl overflow tube. You may want to check that the petcock is working properly also. If you pull the fuel line with the engine off no fuel should flow.
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