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Old January 7th, 2022, 09:45 PM   #161
marshallsmith27
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@Bob KellyIII I was wondering why they looked so perfectly profiled. that makes sense. I guess he did find the teeth
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Old January 7th, 2022, 10:54 PM   #162
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Originally Posted by marshallsmith27 View Post
Since I deleted all of the emissions stuff I am not sure how to hook the hoses up and what to cap now that I am using the enricher. how do I connect everything now?
enricher stays plugged in with 3 hoses to carbs just like factory config. Note crisscrossing of hoses from right carb on way to enricher.

T-fitting between right carb brass vacuum-port to enricher can be capped off. Or replaced with straight hose with no T.

Two ports at bottom rear of tank that used to go to EVAP purge valve can be capped off.

Port on airbox that used to connect to EVAP canister can be capped.

Functionally, there's only ONE emissions connection at carbs. Rest is between tank, EVAP system and airbox.

Looking forward from rear top:


From front looking back:
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Old January 7th, 2022, 10:59 PM   #163
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Originally Posted by Bob KellyIII View Post
I would have welded that thin gear from both sides myself grind down the high spots of the weld and call it good enough...
you actually found those gear teeth inside the engine cases too? they could well have destroyed the engine if it had been ran...
you were very smart to tear it down right then !!!
...
Bob....
Starter gear's on outside of engine in side case, so they were all outside of crankcase. Luckiky, they were all stuck to flywheel with its magnetism. I had no option but to open it up right away; starter was just spinning free in air!

Yup, I welded up teeth on both sides back onto gear. No grinding needed because there's plenty of clearance on both sides of gear. I wanted to avoid interfering with the mating surfaces of the teeth. Some slag did dribble over a little. Cleared that off with jeweler's file and it was good to go.

I ended up returning the replacement gear when it showed up week later. It's been 6-yrs and welded starter gear's held up just fine!
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Old January 8th, 2022, 03:50 AM   #164
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6 years ! wow I'ed say the weld job worked just great ! LOL ....
I've had some experience at making gears myself and it is a big task
the problem is I do not have a rotary table needed to do them... I made a gear out of aluminum for my Logan 920 lathe and it's still going... I had to make an indexer plate that attached to the mill vice to pull it off ... I spent hours making that thing ... but it works still after many hours of use !
i had to make my own cutter for the tooth profile as well that was a challenge ! I've been wanting to get a TIG welder so I can TIG silicone bronze onto gears as my lathe has 2 or 3 gears in need of repair and brazing is the best way to go other than replacing them .... but I haven't pulled the trigger on a Tig welder yet.... i don't know if my shakey hands can do it !
...if my oxy/accet set hadn't burned up in the fire years ago I would have brazed them already... but the only thing is left is a victor torch with no o rings and all the tips have no o rings and the hose was toast not to mention the regulators... so I have junk left but I saved it for parts , just in case ! LOL... I got a nice welding cart for the bottles though it didn't burn at all !
.... both bottles are scorched and would have to be tested it's probably better to use them as wood stoves or something ! LOL
personally pulling off making that one gear was probably a stroke of luck I doubt I could do it again.... but I needed one and I was too poor to afford a hundred bucks for a new one so I made one instead !
...
that lathe and the Triumph are my most prized possessions ! i don't think I'll ever sell either ! LOL
....
later !
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Old January 8th, 2022, 09:30 AM   #165
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Nice thing about TIG is you can get up-close and tight with workpiece. The TIG Finger glove actually lets you brace your hand against it for precision movements and very fine control.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/174992797747
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Old January 8th, 2022, 03:37 PM   #166
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Danno do you have a TIG unit ? if so how long does the argon last you...
that is a big concern for me as the nearest welding supply place is 70~80 miles away..... and you know they would charge alot to deliver a argon bottle !
..... but using that small arc has got to be the best method i really want to try that.... I think I can get a decent Tig welder for around $500-600 bucks
but not knowing much about it makes me apprehensive... the tunstion and the tips for the torch can run up the bill as well this old tony calls them "consumables" but throwing away $200 bucks at a whack for TIG stuff is scary to me ! LOL
the cheaper end Tig welders seam to lack all the accessories you need
and thuss are not actually cheap .... by the time you by the torch ,foot peddle
torch tips and collets you've added $300 bucks to a $200 dollar tig and got a low end welder.... it looks like getting the welder under a thousand bucks
with everything...is the way to go....but that is alot of money for a toy for me.... I dunno I gott'a think on it a while I think I could use it and would be good at it.... but is it really necessary ...that's the question ! LOL
....
the Harbor freight Tig welders seam to be fairly good and reasonable
i've been looking at them alot !
....
Time for coffee !
later !
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Old January 10th, 2022, 02:59 PM   #167
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@DannoXYZ Thanks! I just got home. I have been out of town the last 4 days. Amazon still hasn't shipped out my replacement K&N pod for some reason. I am going to pick up some new hoses for the enricher this evening and hopefully the pod will be here this week!

But I didnt disappear I didnt have my computer with me.
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Old January 10th, 2022, 03:01 PM   #168
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Another question about the hose routing. I will not be running the stock tank at some point. I am changing the entire bike. does the vacuum hose to the petcock just get capped off to delete the vacuum petcock?
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Old January 10th, 2022, 03:02 PM   #169
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I might be able to get the bike running without the pod filter and the correct hoses. I will try it tonight. The pod filter isnt that much more restrictive over no filter
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Old January 10th, 2022, 06:10 PM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marshallsmith27 View Post
Another question about the hose routing. I will not be running the stock tank at some point. I am changing the entire bike. does the vacuum hose to the petcock just get capped off to delete the vacuum petcock?
to cap off that petcock you really should just replace the petcock with a non vacuum one ( they have after market replacements on line)
either that or you will need to find another place to plug that vacuum line into
because gas will not flow through the petcock if the vacuum is disconnected...
.....
but sense you are chucking the entire tank and using another petcock anyway
that vacuum line can be plugged or completely removed just don't leave a vacuum leak it has to be sealed. one way or another, or the bike won't run !
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Old January 10th, 2022, 07:40 PM   #171
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ulimate solution? Convert to EFI and never have to deal with carb issues ever again!
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Old January 10th, 2022, 08:16 PM   #172
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I'm trying out my ultrasonic cleaner on one of the older AMAL 930 carbs...
it seems that the brand new cleaner ...the heat doesn't work !
and strangely enough it's not loud at all, all the ones I've seen on youtube would drive ya out their so noisy but this one isn't bad at all, and it is working you can see the vibration in the cleaning solution... so I set it for 30 min and we'll see if it dissolves my carb or not ! LOL...
no heat sucks though I don't know if it's just the indicator light or the whole heater but it doesn't seem to come on when it should.
....
if I have to box it up and return it I will get a bigger one.
one disassembled carb fills the basket I have the small parts in a tuna can at the bottom because the screen in the basket has 1/4" squares and they fall through with ease !. but everything is in there we'll see what it does !
....
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Old January 10th, 2022, 08:42 PM   #173
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OH ! I new that really I was just testing...yah that's it ! LOL
the heater works fine in the ultrasonic cleaner the 4 digit display is one that shows current temp and target temp sense the instructions for this thing are too small to read even with my most powerful magnifying glasses the instructions are a joke.... my Kid figured it out ! LOL
so I ran it for 30 min and almost all the tarnish is gone from the float bowl and I could see some places that were not quite clean yet so I put it back in and i'll cook it for another 30 minutes and then check it again !
it seems to be working fairly good all in all....
....
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Old January 10th, 2022, 09:50 PM   #174
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I'm not real impressed with the cleaning so far....
had them in there cooking for over an hour now and it did not remove all the tarnish in the bowl but it looks fairly clean every where else
I sprayed it down good with carb cleaner and then WD-40 and re assembled the carb and put it back in the Triumph box...
....
I guess I was expecting shinie metal everywhere but that is not what I got
and the cleaning solution gave it a darker grey look to it....
so on a scale of 1-10 I'd call it a 6 i'm not impressed at all !
.... I can do better with a solvent tank and a brush !
oh well... live and learn !
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Old January 11th, 2022, 12:34 PM   #175
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Okay so I still don't have the pod filter in yet, but I got the bike to ACTUALLY IDLE! its kind of up and down but only slightly. like it will dip down but not to the point of dying just slightly stumbling. the main thing is it's not surging anymore. the idle is steady 90% of the time. I think the occasional dipping is related to not being able to rev it

Success there.

But I cannot get it to rev. It stumbles I have to rev it gently back and fourth to get it to rev.

I have the 38 pilots in there and I have tried 105, 108, 110 main jets. I know the main jets have nothing to do with off idle but I was trying them.

I am at 3 turns out on the A/F screws

I haven't seen it idle in so long so I am getting there. I put the new diaphragm in the enricher and thats the reason it is now idling. It would not idle before without it.

If I use the choke at idle to try to rev it as soon as I choke it the revs shoot up to around 7k
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Old January 11th, 2022, 01:34 PM   #176
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Okay so I still don't have the pod filter in yet, but I got the bike to ACTUALLY IDLE! its kind of up and down but only slightly. like it will dip down but not to the point of dying just slightly stumbling. the main thing is it's not surging anymore. the idle is steady 90% of the time. I think the occasional dipping is related to not being able to rev it

Success there.

But I cannot get it to rev. It stumbles I have to rev it gently back and fourth to get it to rev.

I have the 38 pilots in there and I have tried 105, 108, 110 main jets. I know the main jets have nothing to do with off idle but I was trying them.

I am at 3 turns out on the A/F screws

I haven't seen it idle in so long so I am getting there. I put the new diaphragm in the enricher and thats the reason it is now idling. It would not idle before without it.

If I use the choke at idle to try to rev it as soon as I choke it the revs shoot up to around 7k
Sound like you have a plug up air passage in the carburetor some where
Review this web site on Carburetor
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Old January 11th, 2022, 02:13 PM   #177
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Originally Posted by marshallsmith27 View Post
If I use the choke at idle to try to rev it as soon as I choke it the revs shoot up to around 7k
That's correct!

Turn ON choke and let it idle fast. THEN turn DOWN idle-speed knob to lower idle-speed to 3k or so.

Then as it warms up, revs increase to 4k. Then turn down choke gradually to idlw at 2.5-3k. Repeat as it warms up until choke is all way off. Adjust warmed-up idle-speed to 1.5k

DO NOT touch idle-speed knob after this. Only use choke to adjust cold idle-speed. It's not all on or off. Last 1/3rd of choke lever can adjust cold idle speed from 3k-5k easily.
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Old January 11th, 2022, 02:38 PM   #178
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That's correct!

Turn ON choke and let it idle fast. THEN turn DOWN idle-speed knob to lower idle-speed to 3k or so.

Then as it warms up, revs increase to 4k. Then turn down choke gradually to idlw at 2.5-3k. Repeat as it warms up until choke is all way off. Adjust warmed-up idle-speed to 1.5k

DO NOT touch idle-speed knob after this. Only use choke to adjust cold idle-speed. It's not all on or off. Last 1/3rd of choke lever can adjust cold idle speed from 3k-5k easily.

I got it to idle without a SINGLE PROBLEM for 15 minutes or so, butÖ. it still doesnít want to rev. Iím confused because when I started this months back I couldnít get it to idle but it would rev just fine all day.

I replaced all the vacuum lines and installed the new enricher diaphragm. 110 mains currently and 38 idle. no shims. itís idling as I type this with absolutely no problem but it will not rev at all.
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Old January 11th, 2022, 02:45 PM   #179
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yYsDnwSptU

The main jets are brand new and have never been used. Maybe its still the pilot jet? it seems really clean and all of the holes are free. I'm about fed up with trying now. I dont know what else to do at this point.

I did notice that if it is half choked and I have the idle set to around 4k at full choke like you said then I can sort of rev it.

I think I must be running lean. but with pods and stock exhaust I wouldn’t think I would need to go up from a 38 and 110 seems high already with just pods. am I right to think that?

I have every main jet from 90-160 so I have those. should I get a 40 pilot?

Last futzed with by marshallsmith27; January 11th, 2022 at 06:02 PM.
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Old January 11th, 2022, 06:36 PM   #180
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yYsDnwSptU

The main jets are brand new and have never been used. Maybe its still the pilot jet? it seems really clean and all of the holes are free. I'm about fed up with trying now. I dont know what else to do at this point.
Like said it could one of the carb is still plug up not able pull enough fuel on that cylinder or is not it actually firing to verify this pull coil wire or lift spark plug boot from each side the one that doesn't make any change is the one with issues.
To me most likely it the right-side carb as it gets the must trash at end of main fuel passage so it may not be getting fuel enough to that carb have you check fuel level with clear hose with the fuel drain on bottom of the bowl by open it with 3mm long allen wrench beware some model or torx bit, I think size T15 or 20 or just stripped out just bent hose up next to carb it should at same level as top of bowl where it separates from main body of carb.
You are ware that the carb has to be in sync in order to work right?.
Something else you may want check is drop the one of exhaust pipes see run any better just in case the muffler is just plugged up.
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Old January 11th, 2022, 06:55 PM   #181
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sounds like one of the vacuum lines to the carb is not hooked to vacuum
to me.... like the vacuum operated slides are not being sucked up for some reason.... although it shouldn't take a vacuum line to do that as the vacuum comes straight from the intake port to activate the throttle slides BUT they have a sort of balance tube on them Don't they Danno ? and if that's off or plugged the results might be no rev at all...
.... this is a very hard thing to diagnose at the best of times it takes a real good description of what it is doing ... saying it won't take throttle isn't good enough
what does it do when the throttle is cracked open does it slow down or speed up or a combination of both or what ?
so you got it to idle that is fantastic and half the battle is won !!!! your almost there to take heart ! you'll get this thing running yet !
....
do a little test for me please... start it let it warm up for about 1 minute
at idle and without any kind of air filter on it look down the back of the carburetors and try to give it throttle to rev up and see if you can see the slides moving.... if their not jumping up when you give it throttle that is your problem.....
do that and then explain in detail what it does !
changing jets and stuff at this stage is a NO-NO it will run with the stock stuff in it don't screw with changing the jets !!! ...

what I am looking for is a sogg when you give it throttle i.e. when you twist the throttle instead of reving up it gasps for air and slows down and will die
...
if it does that either the vacuum lines are still messed up or the carbs are still dirty.... and the extra fuel cannot get through the carb ... when throttling up
...
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Old January 11th, 2022, 08:09 PM   #182
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sounds like one of the vacuum lines to the carb is not hooked to vacuum
to me.... like the vacuum operated slides are not being sucked up for some reason.... although it shouldn't take a vacuum line to do that as the vacuum comes straight from the intake port to activate the throttle slides BUT they have a sort of balance tube on them Don't they Danno ? and if that's off or plugged the results might be no rev at all...
.... this is a very hard thing to diagnose at the best of times it takes a real good description of what it is doing ... saying it won't take throttle isn't good enough
what does it do when the throttle is cracked open does it slow down or speed up or a combination of both or what ?
so you got it to idle that is fantastic and half the battle is won !!!! your almost there to take heart ! you'll get this thing running yet !
....
do a little test for me please... start it let it warm up for about 1 minute
at idle and without any kind of air filter on it look down the back of the carburetors and try to give it throttle to rev up and see if you can see the slides moving.... if their not jumping up when you give it throttle that is your problem.....
do that and then explain in detail what it does !
changing jets and stuff at this stage is a NO-NO it will run with the stock stuff in it don't screw with changing the jets !!! ...

what I am looking for is a sogg when you give it throttle i.e. when you twist the throttle instead of reving up it gasps for air and slows down and will die
...
if it does that either the vacuum lines are still messed up or the carbs are still dirty.... and the extra fuel cannot get through the carb ... when throttling up
...
Bob....
yup if didn't plug off the fuel petcock vacuum lines then that could be the problem too
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Old January 11th, 2022, 08:26 PM   #183
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@shspvr The carbs are in sync and the floats are set correctly. I have noticed that the right exhaust most of the time has a white exhaust and the left usually doesn't. though not always. sometimes they're both equal. its possible the exhaust is plugged. I never thought of that. I will check with clear tube tomorrow to see if the bowls are equal.
@Bob KellyIII when given throttle it instantly bogs down and if I hold the throttle open it just dies right away. and yes if you give it throttle the slides move up and when you let off it goes back down but its hard to get the bike to rev so the slides do not move up very much. and yes the petcock vacuum line is plugged
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Old January 11th, 2022, 09:03 PM   #184
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OK try this put your hand over one of the carbs when you throttle up
..just for a second and then take your hand off quickly
what that does is give it a burst of fuel as it's trying to rev up see if that makes it pick up rpm for a second
... the other day you said it reved fine but would not idle what has changed sense then .... vacuum lines ?
...
having a vacuum line not connected will do exactly what you are experiencing
or worse if the vacuum line is in the wrong place... refer to the manual for your bike and look at the hose diagram ..it is critical that they be in the right place.... check both ends of the hoses ...it's easy to assume that the one end on the carb is on the right place but the other end could be on the wrong one
and thus causing it to be extremely lean and not take throttle !
.... I can't do that for you, You have to do it because the bike is in front of you and not me ! be sure you have the right year and model of bike when looking for the hose diagram that is very important as they frequently change those things !

sense it was reving ok and now isn't I think you have a vacuum hose problem still.... leave the settings of the carbs alone and just concentrate on getting the vacuum lines in their proper place....
.....that's my advice ! (for what it's worth !)
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Old January 11th, 2022, 09:09 PM   #185
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@Bob KellyIII if you put your hand over the carbs it will backfire because it is drawing extra gas. when I take my hand off it blows it backwards like out into the air.

I have the vacuum hoses connected correctly. I think now that I have the enricher on is what did the swap with the rev/idle.

without the enricher it would rev and with it it doesnt want to rev.

I just watched a guy on youtube with stock exhaust and pod filter he said he kept stock main jet but had to go to a 40 slow jet. maybe I need to get two new 38 and two 40 slow jets
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Old January 11th, 2022, 09:10 PM   #186
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the slow jets are pretty much the only thing thats not been replaced besides the emulsion tubes and the needles and slides. everything else is new
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Old January 11th, 2022, 09:15 PM   #187
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ok is the enricher working properly ? sense that is the difference between then and now it would suggest that it isn't working like it should !
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Old January 11th, 2022, 09:31 PM   #188
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I would think it is. Its just a spring and a diaphragm. the diaphragm looks to be nice with no cracks and has a seal in the seat it sits in
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Old January 11th, 2022, 10:32 PM   #189
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in that case it should work correctly... right ? somewhere along the line your
assertion that everything is working correctly is wrong... but the question is WHERE ...
time to step back and take a look at everything and re check everything
to asertain what is going wrong...
....
right now it idles fine... that's great !
it does not take throttle though....
so what can cause not taking throttle ?
several things... can do that. plugged main jets, carb slides not moving.
dirty carburetors, lack of fuel in the float bowl. air leak from vacuum line or connection between carb and intake manifolds or intake manifolds themselves
.... at this point we can assume that you have all the correct parts in the carbs
that the carbs are clean ( if their dirty usually it won't idle) and we know you checked all that several times already ... but that does NOT mean it's Not dirty carbs... it just means it's not very likely now.... the float level has been checked and verified that it is correct.... so about the only thing it CAN be is vacuum lines.... sorry but that is how I see it !
maybe one of the things the carb vacuum lines plug into isn't connected to what ever it is supposed to be ? like a line going to the carbon canister or something... and that would be like it is just unplugged even though it IS plugged in ! that possibility exists on all those components !
... check ALL the hoses double check everything that darn thing should run !
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Old January 12th, 2022, 05:48 AM   #190
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Originally Posted by marshallsmith27 View Post
the slow jets are pretty much the only thing thats not been replaced besides the emulsion tubes and the needles and slides. everything else is new
The thing is slow jet for idles only
Just wondering did reinstall the Needle Jet Collar right side up Like this

Last futzed with by shspvr; January 12th, 2022 at 06:51 AM.
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Old January 12th, 2022, 08:20 AM   #191
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@shspvr yes they're installed correctly. thats how the needle seats.
@Bob KellyIII where I am working is kind of dirty. I am out of gas also so I am going to get some new premium gas today and also clean the carbs again and drop the exhaust once more. If this doesn't work then there must be something damaged inside the carbs.

I took the emissions stuff off. like the carbon canister etc. all that stuff was rotten and not needed here in Alabama
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Old January 12th, 2022, 10:05 AM   #192
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I just took them off again and fully cleaned them like I did before just to make sure one of the passageways aren’t dirty. if they were before from testing and testing they aren’t now I ran copper wire and tip cleaners through all orifices.

When fully warmed up and choked it will rev to around 9k and stay there without stumbling but when not choked at all I can’t rev past 6k at all.

I think I am running lean. I don’t remember exactly what it did yesterday in this instance with the 110 but I think I was too rich. It’s cold here and I think the 38 pilots need to be replaced with 40

I’m starting to think there might be something wrong with the carbs. the bike wants to die when you give it gas most of the time even when choked
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Old January 12th, 2022, 11:19 AM   #193
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Choke ON and revving at 9K is way, way too high!!!

An engine will only rev to RPM supported by incoming air-volume. Revving to 9k at idle with throttle-closed means engine is sucking in TWICE as much air as normal. Where's it getting all this extra air???

Bob's onto something, maybe there's vacuum-port or line somewhere that's not plugged in perhaps and is letting carb suck in extra air. This will also cause starting and idling issues since extra air will cause lean mixtures (without choke). Just coincidental that it works better with choke ON because that supplies extra fuel after-the-fact to match extra air. Root cause issue is there's extra air getting into carbs somehow.
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Old January 12th, 2022, 11:49 AM   #194
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Right on Danno ! the symptoms support that !
....
if it were me and I had all this trouble I'd pull the carbs and send them to Ducattiman and have him fix them for me.... then there would be no doubt at all about the carbs.... eliminate one of the many variables !
it would be the smartest $150 bucks you could spend !
but it's your bike you do what ya want !
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Old January 12th, 2022, 02:06 PM   #195
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the 9k is probably from me trying to get the idle to smooth out. I didn’t reset it this am when I cleaned the carbs again. I’m pretty bewildered honestly. I have never had carburetors kick my ass and especially not like this. they’re clean as far as I can tell and they have all new vacuum hoses and brand new intake boots. brand new main jets.

the needles look good the needle jets are brand new. the floats….float. the emulsion tubes are clean the passage ways I can breathe through. the choke is immaculately clean.

I still need the pod filter to come in. but that shouldn’t do all of this.

I have some things I have to buy for my daily bike so once this stuff comes in if I haven’t figured this out I might have to send it to Gordon
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Old January 12th, 2022, 02:31 PM   #196
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this bike is on the side of my shop under a tarpaulin. I need to pull it out and I will record a video with more explaining. I have been working on it there. I can do this tomorrow in the morning. I’m 99.99% sure I have everything connected properly. The only thing that’s not original to this 2007 ninja is the CDI that I had to buy that came from a 2004 non CA model (my bike was a CA model) because the bike got rained on without the tarp and the CDI filled up with water and killed it. I didn’t try to start it until I had dried it out. I broke it open and dried it out and it worked for an hour and then stopped firing so ai had to order a replacement. I will clean the whole bike.
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Old January 12th, 2022, 02:33 PM   #197
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is it possible that the carbs are not getting enough gas since I am not using the vacuum port? I am using the auxiliary tank bottle with the left vacuum barb capped. maybe it’s not able to keep up with the flow and starving for fuel

this is one of the only things I can think of. the petcock was sat in the dirt on accident and needs to be looked at to make sure it’s still good
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Old January 12th, 2022, 02:36 PM   #198
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is it possible that the carbs are not getting enough gas since I am not using the vacuum port? I am using the auxiliary tank bottle with the left vacuum barb capped. maybe it’s not able to keep up with the flow and starving for fuel

this is one of the only things I can think of. the petcock was sat in the dirt on accident and needs to be looked at to make sure it’s still good
That should have nothing to do with it I to used remote fuel bottle for test and tuning
The CDI should be the same from 04 thru 07 and CA model req vacuum to work that EVAP system as long cap off the T fitting or change the hose to one hose you all set to go
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Old January 12th, 2022, 03:15 PM   #199
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Yeah, igniter in '88-1994 had more advance. '95-07 had slightly less advance, but were all same.

Bottle-feed should be fine as long as it's higher than carbs. Feed issues would only show up as time-lag. Such as running perfectly for 2-3 minutes, then dying. That's because floats would fill up to proper levels when bike's off. So fuel would be fine when bike first starts up. Then as floats drain over time and bottle can't keep up, you'd see problems, then it would completely die.

Since symptoms are present from very beginning and bike never dies outright after 3-4 minutes, bottle-feed is more than sufficient.
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Old January 12th, 2022, 03:50 PM   #200
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So then there’s definitely something wrong inside the carbs
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