LED Voltmeter

camaroz1985 · October 12th, 2009, 07:09 AM

In anticipation of installing some heated gear I wanted to make sure I wasn't overtaxing the charging system. So I installed a Heads-Up Voltage Meter from Signal Dynamics. I bought the single panel mount version with the anticipation of moving it to my next bike, and mounting it in the dash.

I didn't want to drill a hole in the dash of the Ninjette, so initially I went to Radio Shack and bought a small project box, but that was too big to fit anywhere. I decided that I would just wrap the LED in velcro (it comes wrapped in waterproof heatshrink tubing, and would normally be exposed to the elements if flush mounted), and mount it to my GPS mount.

I wired it to my auxillary fuse box (installation here if you are interested), and works like a charm.

It is a tri-color LED. The colors are as follows.

Flashing Green - Over 15.25V
Steady Green - Above 12.9V
Steady Amber - Above 12.6V
Steady Red - Above 12.1V
Flashing Red - Below 12V

Here it is mounted on my bike (look close).

A close up so you can actually see it.

Here it is with the key on.

Finally a video to show it working. It flashes each color when power is first turned on to show they are all working. Then it goes to red, and when the bike starts flashes a quick amber then finally green (it doesn't change brightness in the middle, that was just my camera). When I shut it off it goes back down to red, and with the headlights left on starts flashing red.

Next step, heated gear.

OldGuy · October 12th, 2009, 10:10 PM

Ryan - not sure what you really had in mind. The output of the alternator is measured in Watts which is the Voltage x Current. You are only monitoring 1/2 of the picture. Without one of the two (V or I) being constant you don't really know where you are at. Granted the more load the lower the voltage but looking at only the voltage could cause you to overload the system.

Alex · October 12th, 2009, 10:16 PM

I'm not sure if that's the case. When the draw is more than the alternator can replenish, over time the voltage does drop. Many LD riders have similar voltmeters on their motorcycles, to help decide when it's OK to run more lights up front, when to dial up the heated gear, and when to dial it back if the voltage does start to take a dip over time.

HKr1 · October 13th, 2009, 05:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex

I'm not sure if that's the case. When the draw is less than the alternator can replenish, over time the voltage does drop.

You meant more.

He will be fine, that volt indicator will do what he's looking for. Didnt someone on here do a digital volt meter???

Alex · October 13th, 2009, 05:28 AM

I meant more.

camaroz1985 · October 13th, 2009, 06:18 AM

Exactly what Alex said. If I'm say running a heated liner, and high beams or something and notice th voltage dropping I can turn the liner down or off, and the battery should begin to charge again.

After seeing Sam's break down it looks like I would be cutting it close with a heated liner and gloves (which is what I was assuming based on my quick calculations, and the reason behind the LED).

g21-30 · October 13th, 2009, 07:08 AM

Ryan, you could always turn off the high beam and gain 35W or 55W. I think you have HIDs, so that would be 35W, unless you have the HO HIDs.

camaroz1985 · October 13th, 2009, 07:58 AM

Yeah I know, but sometimes its better to see than be warm

I do have the 35W HIDs, so that helps a bit.

OldGuy · October 13th, 2009, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camaroz1985

Exactly what Alex said. If I'm say running a heated liner, and high beams or something and notice th voltage dropping I can turn the liner down or off, and the battery should begin to charge again.

After seeing Sam's break down it looks like I would be cutting it close with a heated liner and gloves (which is what I was assuming based on my quick calculations, and the reason behind the LED).

If we can believe the Manual for the 2008 the alternator has a capacity of 266W (19A @ 14V) so you can do some back of the envelope math with what the different loads are and get a feel from that. Your colored LEDs should keep you close and like you said, you can always turn things off.

Stay Warm

Alex · October 13th, 2009, 10:06 AM

I don't have it in front of me, but does the service manual give the spec on what RPM the engine needs to be at to make that 266W? I have a hunch that it's in the 5k - 6K range mnimum. What this means is that idling, or even some around-town jaunts if people are keeping the revs low, may in fact have the bike in a discharging state. Cruising along on the highway at 8k+ RPM, we can be confident that our charging system is operating at its peak; but that's not necessarily the case if the revs are quite low for whatever reason.

g21-30 · October 13th, 2009, 10:46 AM

5k rpm

randomwalk101 · October 14th, 2009, 09:59 AM

There are little gauge that will actually show you the voltage (numeric) rather than just light colors.

camaroz1985 · October 14th, 2009, 10:23 AM

Thanks, but I dont need numbers. All I need to know is if the battery voltage falls, that will be my sign to turn stuff down/off.

M · October 17th, 2009, 06:57 PM

The 'J' stator puts out 40+V at 4,000 RPMs. It's pretty flat from here up.

In comparison, the 'F' stator doesn't have maximum output until about 6,000 RPMs.

The single LED is a slick setup. However, I prefer the Datel Voltmeter as it shows me the exact output at any given time. The advantage is that I can see even minor variations, which can indicative of an issue. Also, the Datel unit is well sealed. I've had no issues with either of mine over the past two years. The only wear has been some minor corrosion on the brass bolts. I've since cleaned them and put some dielectric grease on them.

Allen · October 17th, 2009, 08:32 PM

Hey Ryan........

THAT, is a slick mod!

I think that would be very useful in balancing the load of heated gear. I'm thinking of putting heated grips on. It would be nice to know you were not running the electrical system at a deficit.

randomwalk101 · October 19th, 2009, 04:36 PM

Nice but expensive. You can get something like this off Ebay, seal it up good and install it...only cost like $10...there are cheaper ones on Ebay..tons of them..just type in "voltage meter"

http://cgi.ebay.com/Mini-Green-LED-D...item35a43a0c7d

or this one for a buck or so..

http://cgi.ebay.com/Blue-LCD-Digital...item4ceb778bc9

g21-30 · October 24th, 2009, 07:18 PM

John, I like the blue one!

randomwalk101 · October 24th, 2009, 07:53 PM

I was looking at it...but on second thought I don't think I'll be getting it for 1) it's not water proof, and 2) don't think I'd need it. I hook the bike up with a battery tender after every ride so battery failing is not a common issue.

randomwalk101 · October 24th, 2009, 08:41 PM

but anyways, if you want to do that LED meter, I think this one is better. A little more expensive but more accurate

http://cgi.ebay.com/4-1-2-Blue-LED-D...item518d91f726

g21-30 · October 25th, 2009, 11:26 AM

My bike is always hooked up to the battery tender, when I'm not riding it. I was thinking of the voltmeter for the winter time, while using the Gerbing jacket liner.

kkim · October 25th, 2009, 11:30 AM

heated gear??? when you guys figure out how to add AC to the bike, lemme know and I'll be the first to install a monitoring device.

g21-30 · October 25th, 2009, 11:51 AM

kkim, since you asked for it, check this out:

http://www.motoring.co.za/index.php?...759&fSetId=381

TonyKZ1 · November 6th, 2009, 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M

The single LED is a slick setup. However, I prefer the Datel Voltmeter as it shows me the exact output at any given time. The advantage is that I can see even minor variations, which can indicative of an issue. Also, the Datel unit is well sealed. I've had no issues with either of mine over the past two years. The only wear has been some minor corrosion on the brass bolts. I've since cleaned them and put some dielectric grease on them.

I've also got this digital meter from datel, it's worked good for me for a long time.
Tony

October 12th, 2009, 07:09 AM	#1
camaroz1985 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Ryan Location: Carlisle, PA Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2008 WR250R, 2006 Ural Raven (Sold), 2009 Versys Green (Sold), 2008 Ninja 250R Green (Sold) Posts: A lot.	LED Voltmeter In anticipation of installing some heated gear I wanted to make sure I wasn't overtaxing the charging system. So I installed a Heads-Up Voltage Meter from Signal Dynamics. I bought the single panel mount version with the anticipation of moving it to my next bike, and mounting it in the dash. I didn't want to drill a hole in the dash of the Ninjette, so initially I went to Radio Shack and bought a small project box, but that was too big to fit anywhere. I decided that I would just wrap the LED in velcro (it comes wrapped in waterproof heatshrink tubing, and would normally be exposed to the elements if flush mounted), and mount it to my GPS mount. I wired it to my auxillary fuse box (installation here if you are interested), and works like a charm. It is a tri-color LED. The colors are as follows. Flashing Green - Over 15.25V Steady Green - Above 12.9V Steady Amber - Above 12.6V Steady Red - Above 12.1V Flashing Red - Below 12V Here it is mounted on my bike (look close). A close up so you can actually see it. Here it is with the key on. Finally a video to show it working. It flashes each color when power is first turned on to show they are all working. Then it goes to red, and when the bike starts flashes a quick amber then finally green (it doesn't change brightness in the middle, that was just my camera). When I shut it off it goes back down to red, and with the headlights left on starts flashing red. Next step, heated gear.

October 12th, 2009, 10:10 PM	#2
OldGuy Live Life Name: Don Location: Lincoln, NE Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Green SE Ninja 250 Posts: A lot.	Ryan - not sure what you really had in mind. The output of the alternator is measured in Watts which is the Voltage x Current. You are only monitoring 1/2 of the picture. Without one of the two (V or I) being constant you don't really know where you are at. Granted the more load the lower the voltage but looking at only the voltage could cause you to overload the system. __________________________________________________ - ATGATT - Scorpion EX700 Hi-Vis Helmet, First Gear MeshTek 3.0 Jacket, TourMaster Transition 2 Jacket and Flex Pants, Sidi Doha boots

October 12th, 2009, 10:16 PM	#3
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	I'm not sure if that's the case. When the draw is more than the alternator can replenish, over time the voltage does drop. Many LD riders have similar voltmeters on their motorcycles, to help decide when it's OK to run more lights up front, when to dial up the heated gear, and when to dial it back if the voltage does start to take a dip over time. __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered) Last futzed with by Alex; October 13th, 2009 at 05:29 AM. Reason: fixed logic issue

October 13th, 2009, 05:28 AM	#5
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	I meant more. __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

October 13th, 2009, 10:06 AM	#10
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	I don't have it in front of me, but does the service manual give the spec on what RPM the engine needs to be at to make that 266W? I have a hunch that it's in the 5k - 6K range mnimum. What this means is that idling, or even some around-town jaunts if people are keeping the revs low, may in fact have the bike in a discharging state. Cruising along on the highway at 8k+ RPM, we can be confident that our charging system is operating at its peak; but that's not necessarily the case if the revs are quite low for whatever reason. __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

October 13th, 2009, 06:18 AM	#6
camaroz1985 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Ryan Location: Carlisle, PA Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2008 WR250R, 2006 Ural Raven (Sold), 2009 Versys Green (Sold), 2008 Ninja 250R Green (Sold) Posts: A lot.	Exactly what Alex said. If I'm say running a heated liner, and high beams or something and notice th voltage dropping I can turn the liner down or off, and the battery should begin to charge again. After seeing Sam's break down it looks like I would be cutting it close with a heated liner and gloves (which is what I was assuming based on my quick calculations, and the reason behind the LED).

October 13th, 2009, 07:08 AM	#7
g21-30 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Sam Location: Northern Virginia Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2009 and ZX-12R 2000 Posts: A lot.	Ryan, you could always turn off the high beam and gain 35W or 55W. I think you have HIDs, so that would be 35W, unless you have the HO HIDs.

October 13th, 2009, 07:58 AM	#8
camaroz1985 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Ryan Location: Carlisle, PA Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2008 WR250R, 2006 Ural Raven (Sold), 2009 Versys Green (Sold), 2008 Ninja 250R Green (Sold) Posts: A lot.	Yeah I know, but sometimes its better to see than be warm I do have the 35W HIDs, so that helps a bit.

October 13th, 2009, 10:46 AM	#11
g21-30 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Sam Location: Northern Virginia Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2009 and ZX-12R 2000 Posts: A lot.	5k rpm

October 14th, 2009, 09:59 AM	#12
randomwalk101 self wrencher Name: john Location: houston Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 250r and 07 600r Posts: A lot.	There are little gauge that will actually show you the voltage (numeric) rather than just light colors.

October 14th, 2009, 10:23 AM	#13
camaroz1985 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Ryan Location: Carlisle, PA Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): 2008 WR250R, 2006 Ural Raven (Sold), 2009 Versys Green (Sold), 2008 Ninja 250R Green (Sold) Posts: A lot.	Thanks, but I dont need numbers. All I need to know is if the battery voltage falls, that will be my sign to turn stuff down/off.

October 17th, 2009, 06:57 PM	#14
M ninjette.org member Name: M Location: Oklahoma Join Date: Jun 2009 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250 x2, Ninja 650R Posts: 165	The 'J' stator puts out 40+V at 4,000 RPMs. It's pretty flat from here up. In comparison, the 'F' stator doesn't have maximum output until about 6,000 RPMs. The single LED is a slick setup. However, I prefer the Datel Voltmeter as it shows me the exact output at any given time. The advantage is that I can see even minor variations, which can indicative of an issue. Also, the Datel unit is well sealed. I've had no issues with either of mine over the past two years. The only wear has been some minor corrosion on the brass bolts. I've since cleaned them and put some dielectric grease on them.

October 17th, 2009, 08:32 PM	#15
Allen ninjette.org member Name: Allen Location: North GA Mt's Join Date: Oct 2009 Motorcycle(s): 08 250 Ninja Posts: 16	Hey Ryan........ THAT, is a slick mod! I think that would be very useful in balancing the load of heated gear. I'm thinking of putting heated grips on. It would be nice to know you were not running the electrical system at a deficit.

October 19th, 2009, 04:36 PM	#16
randomwalk101 self wrencher Name: john Location: houston Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 250r and 07 600r Posts: A lot.	Nice but expensive. You can get something like this off Ebay, seal it up good and install it...only cost like $10...there are cheaper ones on Ebay..tons of them..just type in "voltage meter" http://cgi.ebay.com/Mini-Green-LED-D...item35a43a0c7d or this one for a buck or so.. http://cgi.ebay.com/Blue-LCD-Digital...item4ceb778bc9

October 24th, 2009, 07:18 PM	#17
g21-30 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Sam Location: Northern Virginia Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2009 and ZX-12R 2000 Posts: A lot.	John, I like the blue one!

October 24th, 2009, 07:53 PM	#18
randomwalk101 self wrencher Name: john Location: houston Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 250r and 07 600r Posts: A lot.	I was looking at it...but on second thought I don't think I'll be getting it for 1) it's not water proof, and 2) don't think I'd need it. I hook the bike up with a battery tender after every ride so battery failing is not a common issue.

October 24th, 2009, 08:41 PM	#19
randomwalk101 self wrencher Name: john Location: houston Join Date: Dec 2008 Motorcycle(s): 08 250r and 07 600r Posts: A lot.	but anyways, if you want to do that LED meter, I think this one is better. A little more expensive but more accurate http://cgi.ebay.com/4-1-2-Blue-LED-D...item518d91f726

October 25th, 2009, 11:26 AM	#20
g21-30 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Sam Location: Northern Virginia Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2009 and ZX-12R 2000 Posts: A lot.	My bike is always hooked up to the battery tender, when I'm not riding it. I was thinking of the voltmeter for the winter time, while using the Gerbing jacket liner.

October 25th, 2009, 11:30 AM	#21
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	heated gear??? when you guys figure out how to add AC to the bike, lemme know and I'll be the first to install a monitoring device.

October 25th, 2009, 11:51 AM	#22
g21-30 ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Sam Location: Northern Virginia Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R 2009 and ZX-12R 2000 Posts: A lot.	kkim, since you asked for it, check this out: http://www.motoring.co.za/index.php?...759&fSetId=381

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