rpms

[scottyp]

What rpms do you guys usually keep your 250's when cruzing around the city or highway.

Its my first bike so i'm not used to the whine all the time but i do like keeping the power there.

[CANTFUNCTION]

Well you are going to have to keep up high unless you want to go 45mph all the time.

For city driving 6k to 8k (8k=60mph for me)
For highway driving 9k to 11k

[SteveL]

It all depends on the traffic situation on my commute the max speed limit is 50mph so if I am running in heave fluid traffic I am in 6th at just over 5k rpm, if I have the chance to over take a slow moving vehicles I would take to 9k rpm in the appropriate gear there is no point taking it to the red line when you are going to change up and them slow down to the speed limit. Out of town, like in the mountains use all the rpm that is required for the performance you want.

Steve

[VeX]

You can tailor it a bit by changing out your sprockets. I was doing a fair amount of commuting for a while and doing 75mph at like 9,500 RPM got old preeeety quick. So I did a 15/41 sprocket swap. I don't find much use for the stock sprocket setup unless you're doing a lot of really low speed maneuvering (less then 30mph), or "stunting" out your bike. Even on really tight 15mph turns while canyon carving I'll still be rolling around 30mph in first gear (at around 10,000 RPM).

[capt_bugaloo]

I find I like to keep the RPMs around 7000, as with the stock gearing that seems to be the bottom of the real power.

[headshrink]

Highway: RPM= 8.5 to 9 at 75-80 mph (indicated speed, so actually going close to the speed of traffic)

Street: 6ish for when I am thinking about fuel, 8ish for when I am thinking about power for the turn I want to push a little bit. Speed depends on conditions of road, weather, traffic, legal limits, etc.

I currently have stock gearing and exhaust, but shimmed my needles with 2 washers under each. I SUSPECT my RPM may run a little hotter than before I shimmed, but there is speculation in another thread that may be an indicator/CDI issue.

I will likely go up one tooth on my front sprocket. I bought is months ago, but haven't installed it because I wasn't ready to give up that lower end yet. Since shimming, I am thinking about doing that now, and possibly doing a proper re-jet this fall.

[kkim]

Originally Posted by headshrink

I SUSPECT my RPM may run a little hotter than before I shimmed, but there is speculation in another thread that may be an indicator/CDI issue.

if by "hotter" you mean "more", then you have a CDI/tach issue. there is no way shimming can change rpm at the same speeds. The rpm at a certain speed is a mechanical function (gear ratio) that is fixed by your front and rear sprockets.

edit- there is one other way and that would be if your clutch is slipping.

[OldGuy]

My gal seems to like the 6K-8K range and what ever speed that gives me. I'm close enough to the torque curve if I need it I'm not buzzing myself to death. Although hugging the tank on long stretches is nice -

[headshrink]

Originally Posted by kkim

if by "hotter" you mean "more", then you have a CDI/tach issue. there is no way shimming can change rpm at the same speeds. The rpm at a certain speed is a mechanical function (gear ratio) that is fixed by your front and rear sprockets.

edit- there is one other way and that would be if your clutch is slipping.

So perhaps the shimming was just a coincidence. Maybe also because I was paying closer attention after to see how it affected the bike I noticed something that I didn't prior.

Hopefully my clutch isn't slipping, is there something I can check for that?
I haven't adjusted the cable lately since it is pretty stretched now.... seems to have the appropriate play.

[CodE-E]

Well, the fuel prices are going up again, so I'm trying to cruise at low RPMs (<5k) when I'm just riding through town in ~50 km/h zones. On the country roads I try to stay under 8k now on my commute. But it's hard - revving it up is so much fun.

[stealth250]

Originally Posted by headshrink

Hopefully my clutch isn't slipping, is there something I can check for that?
I haven't adjusted the cable lately since it is pretty stretched now.... seems to have the appropriate play.

What oil have you been using? If you've been using automotive oil, it may contain Moly, and that would cause the clutch to slip. These bikes require motorcycle oil because they use a wet clutch. (engine/trans share the same oil)

[capt_bugaloo]

That's an old myth that's been disproven many times. A quality auto oil is perfectly fine to use in your motorcycle.

[stealth250]

Originally Posted by capt_bugaloo

That's an old myth that's been disproven many times. A quality auto oil is perfectly fine to use in your motorcycle.

I'm sure it's fine for engine lurication. But why would the Valvoline tech department talk me out of 20w50 racing oil, and tell me to use 20w50 4 stroke motorcycle oil? Specifically because many automotive oils contain moly (including the racing oil), and the moly content will adhere to the clutch material and cause it to slip. Also, why do they make motorcycle oil for wet clutch applications? If you drive a Harley, Buell, or anything else with a separate primary, then automotive oil can be used in the engine, because it doesn't share oil with the trans. Our bikes have a wet clutch. Even Mobil1, Lucas and Royal Purple make motorcycle specific oil just for wet clutch applications

I'm not telling anyone what to run in their bike, but I'm gonna go with the old tried and true myth, and the advise from the oil manufacturer. Why even chance it? It only holds 1.7qts, so it's not like using 4 stroke oil is real expensive. Cheap insurance if you ask me!

[miniguns167]

vex, when u changed out sprokets how much did it change ur top end speed?

[SF-Dug]

Originally Posted by scottyp

What rpms do you guys usually keep your 250's when cruzing around the city or highway.

Its my first bike so i'm not used to the whine all the time but i do like keeping the power there.

Ear plugs FTW!!! Buy in bulk.

[mxnello]

stock is what I would call not user friendly, add 1 tooth to front [15] and each gears breath becomes longer i.e. less shifting and lower rev's. For me this with shimmimg and FMF Apex changed the character of the stock Ninja. Then add intergrated taillight and your off.

[VeX]

Originally Posted by miniguns167

vex, when u changed out sprokets how much did it change ur top end speed?

From a mathematical standpoint the 15/41 combo is good to (if I remember correctly) 124 mph at 13,000RPM in 6th. Then again the bike won't even come close to that, but I've had bursts up to 100mph (GPS observed) and in 6th was at about 10.5k RPM (So right in the powerband). The big perk is at freeway speeds I will literally be at 8.5k RPM at 70mph and have a whole nother gear So for cruising at 70mph the RPM's are a little over 7k RPM! It works great.