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February 1st, 2017, 07:05 PM
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#1 |
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ninjette.org member
Name: Jose
Location: Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2014 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 300 Posts: 93
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N300 Speedometer Relocation
Going to remove the black shroud that holds the speedometer. Looking for ideas on how to relocate the speedometer. Has anyone done this or made a custom bracket to relocate the speedometer?
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February 1st, 2017, 08:23 PM
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#2 |
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Private Joker
Name: Ben
Location: Towson, MD
Join Date: Nov 2012 Motorcycle(s): '99/'01 Ninja 250 "sketchy", '13 Ninja 300 "yoshi", '03 GSXR 600 "merlin" Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Mar '14
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I literally just did this today, dropped ~5lbs from the bike
A 300 racer in pa is making fairing stays for 300s if you're interested. It holds the gauge cluster in its original spot
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I see you over there seeing me, do you see the me I think you see? 
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February 2nd, 2017, 04:30 PM
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#3 | |
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ninjette.org member
Name: Greg
Location: San Antonio
Join Date: Dec 2014 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 300, GSXR-750, Ducati M1100 Posts: 185
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Quote:
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February 2nd, 2017, 08:30 PM
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#4 |
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Private Joker
Name: Ben
Location: Towson, MD
Join Date: Nov 2012 Motorcycle(s): '99/'01 Ninja 250 "sketchy", '13 Ninja 300 "yoshi", '03 GSXR 600 "merlin" Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Mar '14
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$150-200 range. It's a custom fabrication from a stand up guy who knows what he's doing.
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I see you over there seeing me, do you see the me I think you see?
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February 3rd, 2017, 08:08 AM
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#5 |
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ninjette.org guru
Name: john
Location: placerville
Join Date: Apr 2016 Motorcycle(s): ninja 300 Posts: 386
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i removed the black shroud and rivited a alum plate to the stay,
it lowers the guage cluster made plenty of room to lower clip ons. much like wirlybirds on the 300 forum. |
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April 9th, 2017, 11:44 PM
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#6 |
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ninjette.org member
Name: Brian
Location: NW USA
Join Date: Aug 2016 Motorcycle(s): Triumph Bonneville, Ninja 300 Posts: 204
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Relocating the instrument cluster can be done with zip-ties. After you pull the cowl, put the screws and fender washers that held it on back into the cluster. Maybe use some RTV or super glue to keep 'em there. Then loop zip-ties between those posts and the stock fairing stay loosely. Tighten progressively until you're happy with the position. It'll still move a bit if you bump it, but not enough to notice. If your tech is super strict, it probably could be done with safety wire instead.
Not the greatest picture, but it shows the end result: I've also since relocated the key switch to the middle bar on the stock fairing bracket (also with zip-ties until I get around to eliminating it). This takes a bit of weight off the yoke and cleans up wire/cable/tube routing immensely. I've also removed the bottom bar and side brackets with an angle grinder. I'm sure somebody makes a fancy race-specific one, but this is cheap and shaves a few ounces off. I'll try to get a better picture after work.
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Let he who has never re-used a crush washer cast the first stone... |
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