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Old October 26th, 2013, 03:46 PM   #1
Christofini
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Alternative method to removing seat?

Hey guys,

so I'm back with another stripped bolt...I'm using the right key (it fits perfectly snug) yet still tearing them apart without a lot of force. Bike's only 5 years old so they shouldn't be THAT weak yet...

So one bolt under the seat is stripped completely. I've begun drilling it out (I've been at it for about 45 minutes) and wondered if there's an alternative way to remove the seat. Is it possible removing whatever the seat attaches to?
It looks like the seat is bolted on to the frame directly.
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Old October 26th, 2013, 05:09 PM   #2
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You talking about the side bolts that hold the seat on? You said under the seat like the gas tank or battery ones.

The side ones for the seat should be under very little torque. You should be able to dremel a flat head in it and get it out. Hell, I would have first tried to jb weld an Allen in there.
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Old October 26th, 2013, 05:18 PM   #3
Christofini
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Yeah, the ones holding the seat in. I'd have to go to a specialist metalworker to get something similar to JB weld here. Was hoping it'd be a few hours' work.

Back to the drill
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Old October 27th, 2013, 04:52 AM   #4
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Aren't those a phillips head (+) screw? The dremel idea would work. Anyway to get a pair of pliers or Channel Locks on the overall head of the bolt and loosen that way?
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Old October 27th, 2013, 07:51 AM   #5
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Apart from the screws holding in the black panels, every bolt is a hex bolt. I'm actually going to replace them all with phillips screws. Getting quite irritated by all the stripped bolts.
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Old October 27th, 2013, 05:13 PM   #6
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Sorry. I have a second hand 08, and my bolts holding the operator seat down are phillips. Must be from from previous owner. Pretty sure those are 5mm Allen wrench. Can you get your hands on a screw extractor kit? If I recall, a #4 or #5 extractor can be hammered into a 5mm Allen socket, and removed. You mentioned you have already drilled a hole, so a smart size extractor could go in deeper and get a better bite.
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Old October 27th, 2013, 05:34 PM   #7
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Yes, the seat bolts themselves are Philips with a shoulder. The bolts holding the black plastic panels that cover these screws are Philips.

The best method I've found for removing stripped Philips bolts is to get a Torx bit a bit bigger than the Philips recess. You'll need:

- Big Torx bit (get a few and pick one that's just too big to fit into the stripped pocket)
- A dead-blow hammer
- A socket the Torx bit will fit into
- A socket extension
- An impact driver and
= (if applicable) an adapter to get the impact driver's 1/2" drive down to the 3/8" bar you'll be using for the socket.

Here's what you do:

Put the socket on the extension bar.
Put the Torx bit into the socket.
Put the tip of the Torx bit into the stripped recess of the bolt. It should not fit in there. What you're going to do is force it in there, and destroy both it and the bolt in the process.

DELIBERATELY and CAREFULLY whack the extension bar with the dead-blow hammer with heavy blows. You don't tap-tap-tap. You WHACK. WHACK. WHACK. The idea is to jam that Torx bit into the stripped recess as tight as it can possibly go.

HOLD THE BAR or carefully remove it and hold the socket... you don't want the bit to fall out.

Now put the impact driver on there and go at it with the dead-blow hammer. Same method. WHACK. WHACK.

Summary: You're creating an interference fit between the Torx bit splines and the stripped bolt recess. You get one shot at this and it needs to be TIGHT. Once you're in there, DO NOT pull the bit out.

This interference it provides enough friction to torque the bolt out.

Be patient. It'll come.

I've used this successfully on bolts I could not heat, which certainly applies in this case.

Next time around, don't overtighten the seat bolt.
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