When can I jump on the freeway?

[EddieNewYork]

Sup guys and gals, I picked up an 08 last week and it had 467 miles on it. I took it for a quick spin around the neighborhood keeping the rpms under 8k and came back with 473 miles. (testing the bike after cleaning the pilot jet)

The girl I bought it from said she rode it on the freeway twice and I don't know how many of those miles were freeway miles.

Question is... can I just jump on the freeway now and ride it like I want or should I baby it a little more till 500 miles or longer? And, if so how many more miles?

Thanks,

Eddie

[Samer]

Freeway should be fine, but the 600 mile service is almost due, so I'd might as well wait until after you do that service, which includes an oil change, before hitting the freeway. First early oil change is the most critical.

[EddieNewYork]

Originally Posted by Samer

Freeway should be fine, but the 600 mile service is almost due, so I'd might as well wait until after you do that service, which includes an oil change, before hitting the freeway. First early oil change is the most critical.

Thanks Samer.

[kkim]

I'd change the oil/filter NOW if it's never been changed, then ride the bike like you need to. Don't worry about break in at this point.

[EddieNewYork]

Originally Posted by kkim

I'd change the oil/filter NOW if it's never been changed, then ride the bike like you need to. Don't worry about break in at this point.

Thanks Kelly! I ordered a bunch of wix filters online and now just trying to decide on which brand conventional oil I should use before switching over to synthetic.

[kkim]

The reason I say to change the oil/filter NOW is due to the age of the oil in the bike. It should be changed yearly regardless of how few miles are put on the bike.

Any name brand, conventional MC oil will do. Same for the synth in the future, though there are a lot of us who use Shell Rotella 5W-40 synth in our bikes.

[llenta]

Originally Posted by kkim

The reason I say to change the oil/filter NOW is due to the age of the oil in the bike. It should be changed yearly regardless of how few miles are put on the bike.

+1

[EddieNewYork]

Originally Posted by kkim

though there are a lot of us who use Shell Rotella 5W-40 synth in our bikes.

I have noticed this.

[wvninja]

Yes and buy Motorcycle oil .. not car :-P and once its changed ride it like you stole it or putt around.. your choice

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by wvninja

Yes and buy Motorcycle oil .. not car :-P and once its changed ride it like you stole it or putt around.. your choice

Actually, that's contrary to what kkim was saying.

During break in, regular 10W-40 car oil is what everyone should be using because you're getting rid of it in no time anyway. The "Energy Conservation" additives and friction modifiers aren't a concern for our bike's wet clutch and low HP according to those who have tried it with dino oil.

[Sailariel]

Am not quite sure that I would use "Car Oil" I would definitely not use any oil that is Energy Conserving. Kawa and Honda both say that you should steer clear of that. Use an oil that has an API Classification SG or higher. Look for JASO T 903 standard, Application MA. After your 600mi service, you may opt to go Full Synthetic. Shell Rotella Synthetic (the Blue container) and Mobil 1, Synthetic Motorcycle Oil--available at Auto Zone, both have the JASO MA standard. Both of those oils will do a good job.

As soon as I get 1000mi on my new Honda, I'll use Shell Rotella Synthetic. I used it in my Ninja for 12000mi and had no problems. The Ninja was completely trouble free. I did notice that the bike shifted better once I changed to synthetic

[wvninja]

Originally Posted by Sailariel

Am not quite sure that I would use "Car Oil" I would definitely not use any oil that is Energy Conserving. Kawa and Honda both say that you should steer clear of that. Use an oil that has an API Classification SG or higher. Look for JASO T 903 standard, Application MA. After your 600mi service, you may opt to go Full Synthetic. Shell Rotella Synthetic (the Blue container) and Mobil 1, Synthetic Motorcycle Oil--available at Auto Zone, both have the JASO MA standard. Both of those oils will do a good job.

As soon as I get 1000mi on my new Honda, I'll use Shell Rotella Synthetic. I used it in my Ninja for 12000mi and had no problems. The Ninja was completely trouble free. I did notice that the bike shifted better once I changed to synthetic

Agree with the qoute


... read your booklet that came with your bike. the people in the "know" would realize that the people who wrote the handbook and designed the bike, would tell you the correct oil to use. Also the first oil change outlined in the book is at around 500 - 600 miles anything before that is just overkill.

I'm sure you can change the oil before hand without detriment to the bike. I also believe you "could" use car oil. I wouldn't recommend it but to each their own. I also didn't follow the break in period driving 35mph or slower when I owned mine. I never had a mechanical problems and didn't change the oil until 600 miles.

[g21-30]

Originally Posted by CZroe

Actually, that's contrary to what kkim was saying.

During break in, regular 10W-40 car oil is what everyone should be using because you're getting rid of it in no time anyway. The "Energy Conservation" additives and friction modifiers aren't a concern for our bike's wet clutch due according to those in the know.

If it has "Energy Conservation" on the label, it should NOT be used in the motorcycle. Check the DIYs. More specifically:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10346

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by g21-30

If it has "Energy Conservation" on the label, it should NOT be used in the motorcycle. Check the DIYs. More specifically:

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10346

MANY people have used it anyway and reported no concerns or clutch slippage. For full synthetic, we want to avoid it, which is why we go out of our way to get Shell Rotella T6.

[backinthesaddleagain]

Why would there be a reason to avoid energy conservation on syn oils but not on dyno oils?

Also, there are plenty of non-energy conservation syn oils.

[Alex]

I believe the thinking is that synth is already so slippery before additional friction modifiers (the energy-conserving part) are added, that with them added there is even more likelihood of clutch issues than dino oils + friction modifiers.

I have a sneaking suspicion that none of it matters a whit on our particular bike, with such a small amount of torque, as it's so unlikely that we'd be able to slip a fully engaged clutch no matter what oil is onboard. But it's a generally accepted rule of thumb for bikes in general, and for high-hp bikes with wet clutches, avoiding the energy-conserving oils may be the safest bet.

[backinthesaddleagain]

Yes, I believe there is an association made between synthetic and slippery.

[kkim]

well, with my green bike making so much more power compared to the other color ninja 250s, I make certain not to use an EC rated oil in my bike!!

If I owned a red bike (which I would never do), it would surely be a non issue.

[backinthesaddleagain]

with all that green horsepower don't you just cram the crankcase with 90w gear oil and let it cause drag on the crank so you can safely operate on public roads with those riding mere mortal colored bikes.

[Blackwidow]

you can jump on the freeway whenever you want, just don't be surprised when a semi truck plows right through you and your guts and brains get splattered all over the place.

[backinthesaddleagain]

Ahahahaha. Hahaha. Haha. Ha.
Posted via Mobile Device

[bluepoof]

Oooh, the oil debate!

I've used nothing but car oil in every bike I've ever owned or worked on (10 of my own, 5? I think? of hubby's) and have never had a single issue. Mobil-1 on sale at Kragen all the way!

[EddieNewYork]

Originally Posted by Blackwidow

you can jump on the freeway whenever you want, just don't be surprised when a semi truck plows right through you and your guts and brains get splattered all over the place.

lol

[00NissanNinja]

^ perfect come back lol

[Blackwidow]

at least frogger tries to run across the freeway, not jump on it.

[g21-30]

Originally Posted by kkim

well, with my green bike making so much more power compared to the other color ninja 250s, I make certain not to use an EC rated oil in my bike!!

If I owned a red bike (which I would never do), it would surely be a non issue.

Even though I have a BLACK bike, I have to agree with kkim on EC rated oil and NOT use it!

[EddieNewYork]

Originally Posted by Blackwidow

at least frogger tries to run across the freeway, not jump on it.

I don't remember him running, lol.

[Cedilla]

Back on topic

Most 10w-40 car oil is not the "energy conserving" kind. Next time you are in an auto parts store look on the back of a bunch of oil bottles. The only ones that claim energy conserving are the; 0w-20, 0w-30, 5w-20, 5w-30, and 10w-30.
10w-40, 15w-40, and 20w-50 usually do not have "energy conserving" printed on the back.
I'm not sure about the 0w-40 oil, but that stuff is hard to find anyway.

Although I doubt that using an "energy conserving" oil is going to make our clutch slip as Alex noted earlier, most people that are using 10w-40 car oil in their bikes are not using "energy conserving" oil anyway.

As far as using using 10w-30 or 5w-30, I would steer clear of it. Your bike wont explode in a big fireball the instant you pour it in there, but it will most likely have some effect on engine life.

[wvninja]

In most cases, it is recommended that motorcycle drivers use synthetic oils in their vehicles. Synthetic oil is more expensive than natural oil, but will stand up to wear and tear better, and tends to keep desired properties longer. Most oil companies are making affordable synthetic oils available and it is well worth the minimal extra investment to be assured a longer performing oil. Synthetic all purpose oil is still less costly than oil designed specifically for motorcycles.

All oil provides a rating which indicates the viscosity of the oil. The lower the rating, the lighter the oil is, meaning that it flows very easily. This is not an issue at low temperatures, but as the engine heats up, the oil will rapidly begin to degrade, and get very hot. As a result, drivers want an oil of high viscosity to ensure smooth running of the engine at high temperatures. Many oils come with a combined rating such as 20W-50, indicating that at low temperatures the oil flows smoothly and as the engine heats, the oil retains viscosity. Single grade oil is available, but multigrade is recommended.

The claim made by many manufacturers of specially formulated motorcycle oil is that oil designed for cars may actually damage the engine of a motorcycle. This is simply not true. While some oil designed for automotive use is not optimal in motorcycles, most oil is easily interchangeable, although motorcycles are more demanding on oil than cars are. Motorcycles still operate along the same internal combustion principles as cars do, after all.

In scientific testing, it has been determined that motorcycles will break down oil more quickly than cars, with the results being the same for both types of oil. Oil breaks down as repeated circulation shortens the polymers in the oil, causing the viscosity to be lowered. In addition, increased oxidation and repeatedly running too hot will cause oil to break down and become less effective. Testing also determined that synthetic oils are not as subject to break down as natural oils, and are therefore a better choice for drivers.