DIY- Oil Change

[craha]

Made the same mistake myself. I realized after removing that bolt and removed the proper new bolt. I put the new drain bolt on with the new crush washer I bought. My question is, do I need to get another crush washer for that old bolt as well or is it a different part? I couldn't tell as the old washer had steps in it that were very regular and didn't seem "crushed" as a normal crush washer would be.

Originally Posted by kkim

James,

That's an oil drain location that was used on the previous gen ninjas. When they designed the new gens, they kept that oil drain plug location and then added another where they tell you to drain from. The problem with the old drain location is that if you strip the oil drain hole threads, you end up having to replace your engine cases to fix the drain hole.

I suggest you use the proper oil drain plug location provided on the new gens in the future.

[reaubideux]

Just wanted to say "thanks" for putting up this DIY, the MOM had good instructions but the real photos were helpful. Just did my first oil change on Saturday, 80 miles on the odo. Swapped in the Wix filter and some Rotella T 15w40 dino oil ($12/gallon @ Walmart) and it was easy-peasy.

Just thought I'd throw out there for anyone who hasn't changed their oil yet that the only problem I had was the fact that my oil pan is pretty tall, it has 2 small quarter-sized holes in the tray and a reservoir underneath to catch the oil and filter out debris - like drain bolts and washers. The oil pan is about 5.5" high and with my bike up on jack stands it cleared the bottom of the fairings but w/o enough room to get my hand/socket wrench underneath so I had to move the pan out of the way to loosen the drain bolt and filter housing bolt thus leading to oil not running into the catch pan - thankfully, I've got an oil mat to catch the leaks. Promptly went out and picked up a typical oil pan. It's only 3.5" tall and I tested it out and was able to fit my hand w/socket wrench under there w/o issue. (How sad is it that I took the time to measure the height of my oil pans?) Maybe once I get a true set of stands this won't be an issue.

[kkim]

just curious... did you find any metal particles in your oil pan strainer?

[reaubideux]

No... but the strainer is a plastic plug with a cross-thatch pattern so it wouldn't filter out anything smaller than a pebble. Only really is useful for keeping your drain bolt and/or washer from falling through. I checked my oil filter, meant to take a photo of my filter but my hands were oil-covered and I was too lazy to wash'em, and didn't see any metal particles either but I wasn't staring too intensively, I gave it a once over and put it to the side.

[kkim]

in the oil drain pan I use, I'm able to move the oil around and see the bottom of the pan. I'm always seeing small metal bits in every oil change I do. I'm odd that way, but I'm not comfortable with leaving metal particles in my oil for 7,500 miles, as outlined by Kawasaki as their oil change interval.

[gfloyd2002]

I'm a bit paranoid about checking my spent oil. I start with a sparkling clean drain pan, then work it around like a gold miner to find anything that came out with the oil. I'm also still getting some metal shavings, though bike is still very young and could be break-in related.

Regardless, I'll be chaning my oil VERY regularly until those stop showing up.

[Cuongism]

Originally Posted by Cuongism

So it looks like I'm missing a couple of parts from the filter.



My filter doesn't have that top cap and I also don't have a washer for the spring. I checked cheapcycleparts.com, but can't find replacement parts for it. Is it something generic I can get at any motorcycle shop? Anyone know the size to the washer? I also want to replace the bolt to the oil filter since it looks very rounded. Thanks in advance!

BTW, I hope it's not harmful not having that top cap. I've already done two oil changes without it so far

I guess I'm not as

[Cuongism]

Originally Posted by Cuongism

So it looks like I'm missing a couple of parts from the filter.



My filter doesn't have that top cap and I also don't have a washer for the spring. I checked cheapcycleparts.com, but can't find replacement parts for it. Is it something generic I can get at any motorcycle shop? Anyone know the size to the washer? I also want to replace the bolt to the oil filter since it looks very rounded. Thanks in advance!

BTW, I hope it's not harmful not having that top cap. I've already done two oil changes without it so far

I guess I'm not as observant as you guys at checking the oil. I found my top cap last week when I did my oil change because my drain bolt fell in. Lo and behold, huge chunk of metal has been in the oil the whole time

[Liber]

Just used this DIY + manual to change my oil for the first time. Thanks Kelly for all the excellent pics and steps. Gonna take her out for a spin tomorrow and Sunday for several short runs around town, and then I'll change it again Sunday afternoon. Hopefully I can hit 600 miles next weekend.

[CZroe]

Surprised the DIY doesn't mention transport and disposal.

[2fiddy]

Dude, thanks for the write up. But that is a ALOT of oil changes and almost majorly unnecessary. Should do the initial 600 mile service and then change within the next 3500 miles.

[kkim]

Originally Posted by 2fiddy

But that is a ALOT of oil changes and almost majorly unnecessary. Should do the initial 600 mile service and then change within the next 3500 miles.

says you.

[2fiddy]

Originally Posted by kkim

says you.

I have a 2005 Ninja 250 that has 47,000 miles on it and I've had it since it was brand new and that's the schedule I've followed and it still runs mint.

[GeorgiaHooligan]

Nice pics of the oil change. Really clear.

[2fiddy]

Originally Posted by GeorgiaHooligan

Nice pics of the oil change. Really clear.

Agreed. Very good writeup.

[kkim]

Originally Posted by 2fiddy

I have a 2005 Ninja 250 that has 47,000 miles on it and I've had it since it was brand new and that's the schedule I've followed and it still runs mint.

congratulations

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by 2fiddy

I have a 2005 Ninja 250 that has 47,000 miles on it and I've had it since it was brand new and that's the schedule I've followed and it still runs mint.

I don't think 2fiddy realizes that he was changing it that often because it was new. If you read both sides of the break-in technique camps you'll see strong evidence for changing it IMMEDIATELY and then frequently (<50mi, 100mi, 300mi, 1,000mi, 3,000mi, and then fall into normal service cycles). Even if you follow the manufacturer's break-in guidelines, you still may want to do a few early oil changes.

[Alex]

Originally Posted by CZroe

If you read both sides of the break-in technique camps you'll see strong evidence for changing it IMMEDIATELY and then frequently (<50mi, 100mi, 300mi, 1,000mi, 3,000mi, and then fall into normal service cycles).

Well then there's a third camp.

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by Alex

Well then there's a third camp.

I was saying that some would change it more frequently whether they lie on the "Ride hard" side of the fence or the "Ride like the manual/manufacturer suggests" side based on the amount of contaminants known to be there.

[CZroe]

OK, I just wanted to mention that a 10qt "Blitz" brand oil drain pan is $7.99 at AutoZone. A much smaller one is $19.99 at Walmart (same brand) and even the feature-less ones at Harbor Freight cost a lot more, so it sounds like a good deal. It seals the oil in for transport and has a screen for catching stuff so you won't lose your top cap thing like Cuong.

Also, AutoZone will accept your old oil for free.

These are two things I wish the DIY had covered (capture/storage and transport/disposal).

[CZroe]

Back again. I did the oil change on Monday and I kept having to add oil over and over. I'd fill it up and it would just disappear and not come back after I'd run the bike for even a second! It took so many fills and starts before some finally remained that I have to wonder if enough was in there to prevent damage in the first place.

Anyway, I had a problem with that oil drain pan (the lid stopped sealing) and ended up getting my whole hand covered in it, at which point I noticed two things:
My old oil smelled like gasolene
My old oil looked like red blood when thinned out

I am and was using Shell Rotella T6. Is that normal/OK?

Anyway, the lid to the "Blitz" oil drain pan said to close the lid very tightly for transport. Before filling it with oil, I tested it and it would turn and then make a solid detent into it's tightest position. It was pretty tough to do without leverage. After putting oil in it, it would spin forever very easily (lubricated threads?) without ever feeling the "detent." In fact, if you stopped somewhere at it's tightest before it would slip and spin again it would just pop off a thread when you picked up the container (it flexes with weighted oil in it) and would start leaking oil again. Grrr. I'm going to ask for a new lid when I take my old oil in for recycling. It was VERY SPECIFIC about making sure it was closed very "tight for transport" so they can't blame me or say that I over-tightened it (it won't even get tight, IMO).

[wtfh4xx]

Thanks, this helped me perform my first change.

[forbitel]

Thanks for the DIY, it did helped a lot on my first oil change. I compared the FRAM filter the WIX filter, and for $2 more I decided to go with the WIX. for some reason the FRAM filter have a metal strip running inside the filter that block many of the oil passage holes, and the element seems to be just glued to the frame, IMO i think the WIX is better. Another though, I changed the oil while the bike was in its side-stand without a problem, however it was a little to crowded, I would definitely recommend to use the back stand to lift the bike, i might be getting it for my next oil change. Again, Thanks for the DIY.

[kkim]

definitely get a rear stand. makes cleaning and lubing the chain much easier not to mention many other maintenance chores.

[Sk8dude]

Thanks much for the wonderful DIY! Made the first oil change i've personally done on my bike very simple and easy. Very good pics and instructions.

[kkim]

Brian,

you're welcome. glad it worked out well for you without any problems. You would be surprised at the number of people that can't follow directions... even when you add pictures.

[Sk8dude]

Yeah, the only issue I had initially was getting a long enough wrench to get the oil filter bolt loose . A short one wrench is hard to get enough leverage, soon as I got a bigger wrench, it broke loose pretty easily.

One thing i did notice that even on a rear stand, I had some oil drip down on the exhaust pipe then on to the right side fairing. Had to wipe up some of that afterword. But other than that it went pretty smoothly

[jfauerba]

Be careful if anybody uses a fram oil filter, the large O-ring did not fit correctly for me and it started leaking. Had to replace it with the old K&N oil ring which fits much better. The fram seems to be a bit wider and had problems sitting it correctly in the grove.

[Live2ride]

Originally Posted by forbitel

Thanks for the DIY, it did helped a lot on my first oil change. I compared the FRAM filter the WIX filter, and for $2 more I decided to go with the WIX. for some reason the FRAM filter have a metal strip running inside the filter that block many of the oil passage holes, and the element seems to be just glued to the frame, IMO i think the WIX is better. Another though, I changed the oil while the bike was in its side-stand without a problem, however it was a little to crowded, I would definitely recommend to use the back stand to lift the bike, i might be getting it for my next oil change. Again, Thanks for the DIY.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...h&fromType=oemI ordered 2 of these oil filters since I couldn't find any place that carried them in store. They are Fram's but it clearly states they rebranded the Wix filters. I would think that the filters would be the same.

[Live2ride]

I performed my first motorcycle oil / oil filter change today . I felt very proud of myself as I got to get in her all deep like . I used a Fram CH6012 oil filter and Rotella T6 full synthetic 5w-40 motor oil. I thought I had finished and put everything in, checked oil level, etc and came back to post this when I realized I never saw the washer that sits between the spring and oil filter . Luckily I hadn't trashed my old filter yet and found that I had to pry the washer off the bottom of the old filter then remove the new one, take it apart and place the washer in it's rightful place; then put it back in the bike and add the oil that had drained out of the filter when I took it off.

Thanks for the great DIY, Kkim; Without it I would have completely forgotten the washer I missed.

[kkim]

Originally Posted by Live2ride

Without it I would have completely forgotten the washer I missed.

lol... you wouldn't have been the first one.

[NathanUc]

Thanks for the DIY. You just cost my dealership $70 of reoccurring revenue.

I used:
Lucas Oil Semi-Synthetic 10w-40
K&N filter
12mm crush washer ($6......)
Lots of rags

[Bols]

Did my first oil change today! Just did a 10min test ride now, and it seems to work fine. Only thing i noticed was a slight drop in idle rpm, though the engine seemed to run abit smoother.

Is idle rpm changes normal after an oil change? The bike has been running Bel-Ray mineral oil and Fram filter that has been changed 2 or 3 times so far by the dealer. Now i changed to Repsol's semi-synthetic (which is what Repsol recommended for this bike), and a KN-401 filter. Could the change from mineral to semi-synth and filter brand justify the idle change? I have checked the filter plug, the drain plug and the oil cap for leaks.

[kkim]

it can happen... dunno why, though. just reset the idle RPM to spec and then keep an eye on it to see if it changes.

[LazyMaxy]

Thanks for this info! Will probably do my first oil change soon. Have 300 miles on the bike. Is there anything special that needs to be done for the first change?

[kkim]

nope... it's the same as any other oil change that you'll be doing in the future. follow the steps carefully, the first time, to learn the process as you go and get it completely right... you'll be doing it often in the future.

GL...

[EsrTek]

Thanks for the write up... I had to come back inside after refilling 1st time and running engine 2-3mins. The level was so low it threw me for a second, but this DIY showed me what i needed to know quickly

[nah.uhh]

Originally Posted by EsrTek

Thanks for the write up... I had to come back inside after refilling 1st time and running engine 2-3mins. The level was so low it threw me for a second, but this DIY showed me what i needed to know quickly

Make sure you let the bike sit for ~5 minutes after running to get an accurate oil reading. If not it will read low, worse if the oil is cold (like after filling or not being ridden) it will take longer to fill the sight glass.

Better yet, after the oil level seems to be good enough, take a quick 5min ride to get the oil hot and come back, let the bike sit for a few mins, and check the level. When my oil is hot I like it 3/4 up the sight glass, which normally read just below 1/2way point while cold.

[EsrTek]

Originally Posted by nah.uhh

Make sure you let the bike sit for ~5 minutes after running to get an accurate oil reading. If not it will read low, worse if the oil is cold (like after filling or not being ridden) it will take longer to fill the sight glass.

Better yet, after the oil level seems to be good enough, take a quick 5min ride to get the oil hot and come back, let the bike sit for a few mins, and check the level. When my oil is hot I like it 3/4 up the sight glass, which normally read just below 1/2way point while cold.

Thanks, I knew it didn't get fully hot, so I got it set to about 1/2 now.
I'll go take her for a 5min ride and check it about 5mins after I get back.
Hopefully, won't be overfilled.

[LazyMaxy]

Thanks. I will definitely take my time.. also is it ok to do the oil change on the side stand? Don't have one of those other things yet..