My new Ninja 250

[wardie]

Just put 50 miles on my 2012 New 250 Ninja. What a difference from my 07' which was a great bike. Already changed oil aND FILTER ONCE PROBABLY DO IT AGIAN AT 120 MILES THEN AGAIN AT THE 600 MILE SERVICE.

Dealership said 600 mile service about $130 includes oil and filter plus torqueing all fasteners etc. I asked about checking valves they said never did that on 600 mio-le service but for an extra charge they'll do it but not needed until 7500.

I have two service manuals for this model so I think I can check and torgue if necessary the fasteners and change the oil.

Definitely going to change ther gearing. Speedometer indicated 50 mph is like 6K

)8 and up general rule looks like 15-38 anyone care to chime in on what they are using for gear ration? Wardie

[subxero]

Originally Posted by wardie

Just put 50 miles on my 2012 New 250 Ninja. What a difference from my 07' which was a great bike. Already changed oil aND FILTER ONCE PROBABLY DO IT AGIAN AT 120 MILES THEN AGAIN AT THE 600 MILE SERVICE.

Dealership said 600 mile service about $130 includes oil and filter plus torqueing all fasteners etc. I asked about checking valves they said never did that on 600 mio-le service but for an extra charge they'll do it but not needed until 7500.

I have two service manuals for this model so I think I can check and torgue if necessary the fasteners and change the oil.

Definitely going to change ther gearing. Speedometer indicated 50 mph is like 6K

)8 and up general rule looks like 15-38 anyone care to chime in on what they are using for gear ration? Wardie

congrats on the pick up

gearing depends on your type of riding and what you like. No general rule, but regardless don't know many running 15 38, i think 15 42 is more popular.

I have stock, i just did close to 2hr ride on highway with revs never going below 9k and generally close to the 12k on average, non issue

[wardie]

thinking about a trip 700-900 miles away.
want to bet 7k at 70-72 mph ideas on gearing. I'd rather ask than just start buying gears gets expensive.

[subxero]

Originally Posted by wardie

thinking about a trip 700-900 miles away.
want to bet 7k at 70-72 mph ideas on gearing. I'd rather ask than just start buying gears gets expensive.

in all seriousness, i don't know that the ninja can hold 70mph at 7k, a stock bike is lucky if it makes 18hp at 7k rpms, but IDK?

15 42 would probably get you close to 8k at 70mph??? maybe? IDK? someone else will chime in here sooner or later.

My stock gearing odes 80mph indicated at around 10k rpms just as a comparison

[C-Bass]

Originally Posted by wardie

Just put 50 miles on my 2012 New 250 Ninja. What a difference from my 07' which was a great bike. Already changed oil aND FILTER ONCE PROBABLY DO IT AGIAN AT 120 MILES THEN AGAIN AT THE 600 MILE SERVICE.

Dealership said 600 mile service about $130 includes oil and filter plus torqueing all fasteners etc. I asked about checking valves they said never did that on 600 mio-le service but for an extra charge they'll do it but not needed until 7500.

I have two service manuals for this model so I think I can check and torgue if necessary the fasteners and change the oil.

Definitely going to change ther gearing. Speedometer indicated 50 mph is like 6K

)8 and up general rule looks like 15-38 anyone care to chime in on what they are using for gear ration? Wardie

Engine speed at 50 mph is about 7500 rpm with 14/45 stock sprockets.

I just installed a 42T rear sprocket on my 2012 Ninja 250. I like it - the engine isn't screaming any more at 9000 rpm when I'm cruising along at 60 mph - now it's only at 8400 rpm.

[mgentz]

I have a 15/43 setup.

[C-Bass]

Originally Posted by mgentz

I have a 15/43 setup.

Wow! That would be like about 5 teeth down on the rear sprocket. Must cruise nice and calm at 60 mph.

At some point rev's are needed to produce enough horsepower to overcome wind drag. For example, just going from 60 mph to 75 mph, air drag increases by 56% - because drag increases with the square of road speed.

[subxero]

I don't think mgentz has a problem with not enough power

[mgentz]

Originally Posted by subxero

I don't think mgentz has a problem with not enough power

No sir.

[wardie]

two years ago I ran my 07 250 to Daytona kept her around 70 mph but the gearing was different. I think one up and two or three down in rear. Never had a problem took two days because I didn't hammer like a big bike could.

That was an 07 the 12 is a little different. No one has a GPS and can tell me what their A) gearing is and B) at what rpms' I'm thinking the Speedo is optimistic but until I put my GPS on won't know how much. I ordered the Ram ball in metric thread for the mirror mount.

Anyone know if they have factory center stands available for new Gens? Thanks guys Wardie

[Hero Danny]

Originally Posted by wardie

Just put 50 miles on my 2012 New 250 Ninja. What a difference from my 07' which was a great bike. Already changed oil aND FILTER ONCE PROBABLY DO IT AGIAN AT 120 MILES THEN AGAIN AT THE 600 MILE SERVICE.

Wait, you are going to change your oil at 120 miles and again at 600 miles? That seems rather soon to me? I thought oil lasted like 3k?

[erbarry88]

Why so many oil changes? Isn't the first one at 600 miles according to the manual? As for the valve inspection I would say it's way to soon and stick to the manual. Learn to do the maintenance yourself and it will save you lots of money. As for gearing I use 15/45 and at 80 I'm just under 10k.

[erbarry88]

Originally Posted by Hero Danny

Wait, you are going to change your oil at 120 miles and again at 600 miles? That seems rather soon to me? I thought oil lasted like 3k?

According to the manual it should be at 600 do to break in but even at 3k a good synthetic oil is just starting to break down. I change oil every 5k.

[quarterliter]

Originally Posted by Hero Danny

Wait, you are going to change your oil at 120 miles and again at 600 miles? That seems rather soon to me? I thought oil lasted like 3k?

Frequent oil changes on break-in is an excellent idea. Lots of metal and sealant floating around during break in.

[mgentz]

My break in oil was in my bike for 30 miles. I will do a change at 600, 1200, 3000 and 6000. Also, no matter where i am i change my oil at the very end of the season before i put the bike away. I more than likely will not change to synthetic for 6000 miles or more.

[wardie]

Quarterliter has the right idea. Could be lots of little shards and tiny pieces of flashing or metal bits from break in. Change it two maybe three times by 600 miles and then follow maintenance in manual afterwards.

92 miles and I've varied my rpms from 4k to short bursts to 6k then back down to 4k. Never over 50 mph but that is a little higher than what owners manual says to do on first 100 miles. Cripes the way the gearing is if you go over 40 mph in 6th you're at 4k.

Neat bike it tips in quicker than my 07'.
Anyone know if you can order a factory centerstand?

[quarterliter]

Originally Posted by mgentz

My break in oil was in my bike for 30 miles. I will do a change at 600, 1200, 3000 and 6000. Also, no matter where i am i change my oil at the very end of the season before i put the bike away. I more than likely will not change to synthetic for 6000 miles or more.

By 30 miles the majority of break-in has occured. By 200 everything should be done, rings seated, etc. You could definitely switch to synthetic at your 600 mile oil change. Corvette (Mobil 1) and the SRT viper(Pennzoil Ultra), all come factory fill with synthetic . Break-in doesn't take long at all.

[mgentz]

I could....but we'll see

[JohnnyBravo]

I doubt many people looking for center stands these days. Congrats on your new ride!

[wardie]

Quarterlink I managed to get 138 miles on bike total in between what seemed like a dozen things I had to do this weekend. Got home from a short 70 mile ride and drained the oil. This is the second oil change and filter. I cleaned the oil pan before draining the oil that way I could see if there was any metal shavings. Right now I'm using off the shelf Fram but will order K&N from Amazon probably 6 at a time.

After this I won't change oil and filter till 600 mile interval; at which time I'll do the 600 mile inspection and service. I won't put synthetic oil in till at least 1K or more. Yes I know Corvettes have synthetic from the factory but this little Ninja has pressed in liners for cylinders so I just want to make sure the rings are good to go.

Not to spark an oil controversy but even though I use Valvoline 10w-40 motorcycle specific oil right now during break in and Castrol Syntec in my car I'd had great real world success racing with Mobil 1 4T motorcycle specific oil designed for wet clutches. I run this in my XR 100 in the Ohio Mini Road Racing League and we punish the crap out of these bikes. I have digital thermometer that I use to check temps on tires motor ect. and not only is the head temperature on the engine cooler but the shifting is easier. Based on that I put Mobil1 4T in my 2007 Ninja with 27,000 miles and I couldn't believe how much smoother shifting the transmission was. Now the little Ninja shifts ok with no problems but I "could feel" the difference.

Based on that when I switch to Synthetic oil I'll run Mobil 1 4T. Just my preference from my real world experience with this stuff. I'm certain others have their own favorites. Believe me it kills me not to run Castrol

Corbin seat should arrive this week and throttle flipper so I can get going on a longer ride maybe couple hundred miles this coming Saturday. Wardie

[mgentz]

No my oil is better!

[quarterliter]

Mobil 1 4T is a great oil. And the valvoline stuff is good too. Do the newgens have a filter screen like the pregens?

[quarterliter]

Originally Posted by mgentz

I could....but we'll see

I would use the best oil I could get my hands on if I had as much time and money as you do in that engine.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by quarterliter

I would use the best oil I could get my hands on if I had as much time and money as you do in that engine.

Redline Ester custom blend?

[quarterliter]

Originally Posted by jkv45

Redline Ester custom blend?

Sometimes the best can't be bought.

[mgentz]

Originally Posted by quarterliter

I would use the best oil I could get my hands on if I had as much time and money as you do in that engine.

I run amsoil. I will do so pretty soon....just want her to finish sealing up.

[wardie]

Looking at changing gearing. I am used to having a bike with a center stand now this bike doesn't have one so right now just considering the front only until I get time for spools and such.
Stock is 14/45 I am thinking 15/45 need to drop rpm's I taking her on a 600 mile trip this weekend. If I am at 6k at 50 what will going up one tooth in the front drop the top gear rpm's by? I know there's a bunch of mathematicians here Thanks Wardie

[wardie]

Ok I went and bothered my friend Wiki for guidance and he came through.
At 65 mph 14/45 = 8K rpm's
At 65 mph 15/41 = 6810 rpm's
At 65 mph 15/43 = 7150

heading over to Kawi shop for 15 and 43 if I can find spools and lift rack. Thanks

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by wardie

Ok I went and bothered my friend Wiki for guidance and he came through.
At 65 mph 14/45 = 8K rpm's
At 65 mph 15/41 = 6810 rpm's
At 65 mph 15/43 = 7150

heading over to Kawi shop for 15 and 43 if I can find spools and lift rack. Thanks

Depending on conditions and your size (and amount of luggage) that could be too much gearing. You may find performance pretty flat in that range, and mileage may not be that good because of a larger throttle opening.

The full-aero guys can get away running tall gearing on the Ninja because of the reduced drag, but it may be tough with a stocker (and luggage).

[mgentz]

15/43 is hard for a stock bike. like joe (subxero) said, my bike is not stock.

[kashun84]

Originally Posted by subxero

No general rule, but regardless don't know many running 15 38

I believe I am one of the rare. I am running 15/38 since day one. It's about 7k at 70 actual mph, not indicated. Personally I love it coz I found 7k is the sweet spot for this engine with minimal vibration. I know gearing is a 100% personal preference and really depends on their usage. My commute is a 5x miles one way, 100% highway on a relatively flat scenario and I found this is perfect for me. And forget to mention, you can always downshift when needed. For your reference, I am 160lb and I am doing 70+ MPG with that setup.

[reroka]

I have a 15/42 set up

I can go 70 mph right at 7k RMS

I think I will be going down to a 15/39

[subxero]

Originally Posted by reroka

I have a 15/42 set up

I can go 70 mph right at 7k RMS

I think I will be going down to a 15/39

why? out of curiosity

[reroka]

I do a lot of highway riding.

QUOTE=subxero;885869]why? out of curiosity[/QUOTE]

[mgentz]

all very interesting in this thread.....

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by kashun84

I believe I am one of the rare. I am running 15/38 since day one. It's about 7k at 70 actual mph, not indicated. Personally I love it coz I found 7k is the sweet spot for this engine with minimal vibration. I know gearing is a 100% personal preference and really depends on their usage. My commute is a 5x miles one way, 100% highway on a relatively flat scenario and I found this is perfect for me. And forget to mention, you can always downshift when needed. For your reference, I am 160lb and I am doing 70+ MPG with that setup.

Sounds like it's working for you. Are you tucking down or using a fairly upright position? Any bags?

I've geared my SV650 up +1T on the countershaft to drop the cruising revs. It's now about 5000 RPMs at 70, down about 500 from stock. It smoothed-out the cruise over 70, and gave a slight increase in MPG - but not that much. For a naked bike it does pretty well at about 55 MPG at that speed (running 87 octane ethanol-free, I'm 180#) without tucking. I rarely need to downshift with it, as the torque peak is around 7000 and there's a decent amount available at 5000. Peak HP is around 9000. That's a big contrast from the Ninja's powerband.

In the Ninja's case, I would expect that you would need to be a smaller-size rider and have pretty flat roads to pull off a significant gearing change - and expect to lose a fair amount of acceleration.

[subxero]

Originally Posted by reroka

I do a lot of highway riding.

QUOTE=subxero;885869]why? out of curiosity

could you elaborate a bit?

You say you already do 70mph at 7k, that is not geared high enough? Are you looking for MPG? looking for just running low revs because you don't like the bike to be screaming? If so why don't you like the higher revs?

again just out of curiosity, trying to understand other peoples preferences and point so of view on the subject.

[quarterliter]

At some point taller gearing will negatively effect gas mileage. I'm interested to see where that point is.

[wardie]

you definitely have to be on the lighter side to pull any kind of tall gearing. I speak to Dr. Evan Yeager ( he has one of the most thorough websites relating to 250 Ninjas) regularly and he is sub 160 lb. and I think he pulls 15/38.

I ordered 15/41 for a 600 mile ride I'll be doing this weekend. I'll keep the 45 for commuting around town and the 41 when I am traveling any distance over 300 miles. Think this will be a workable compromise.

You know it's just fun being able to come to this site and have a common theme the little Ninjas. All my buddies with liter bikes would never dream of owning one and many wouldn't even swing a leg over just for a fun ride.

They just don't get it with these small displacement bikes..they teach you a lot of things even when you've been riding for 40 years

Great conversation and responses. Thanks Wardie

PS I am having a darn hard time trying to remove the front sprocket. Read the posts and the Wiki. Having a friend come over tonight and hold rear brake. I tried in vain last night to loosen wifey even came out and pushed on brake pedal. Bike in gear..no one said anything but I've never seen a sprocket nut that didn't unscrew counter clockwise. Anyone else have difficulty removing the nut and yes I straightened the lock tab

[mgentz]

Put something in the wheel to lock against the swingman. Cover that something to prevent scratches.