November 6th, 2012, 04:40 PM | #42 |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Jason
Location: Houston, TX
Join Date: Nov 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Ninja 250 (sold), '06 Ninja 650R Posts: 455
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Not necessarily backwards, but there are a lot of misconceptions about viscosltiy numbers.
Every time I hear somebody say a 5W-40 is "too thin" because the manufacturer spec'd out a 10W-40, I feel a couple brain cells die. People don't understand that the oil will never be thinner than SAE 40 weight oil would be at 212F, it would not meet the specification to be called SAE 40. They don't get the fact that the 5W number is at a 100F and that a SAE 5 weight oil has a higher viscosity at 100F than a SAE 40 weight oil has at 212F. You prove this to yourself everytime you change the oil. Drain it when it's cold v. when it's hot. It will always drain faster after warming it up. I would run 0W-40 if it was reliably found and didn't cost $$. |
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November 6th, 2012, 04:46 PM | #43 |
wat
Name: wat
Location: tustin/long beach
Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): wat Posts: Too much.
Blog Entries: 5
MOTM - Oct '12, Feb '14
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i know these things and still screw it up every time.
another funny is when people say things like "10weight-40" instead of 10winter-40
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November 6th, 2012, 04:54 PM | #44 |
Long Time Rider
Name: Blue
Location: Charlotte, NC
Join Date: Sep 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Posts: A lot.
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For what it is worth I ran across another oil analysis submitted just days before Cuong.
Looks like 40w oil shears down to about a 30w under 3k miles. what amount of protection is being sacrifice when the oil shears down from the recommend weight. I wonder if a 50w is shearing down to a 40w under similar conditions. I run a 20w-50 semi synthetic in my bike, changing it every 2-3k miles. |
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November 6th, 2012, 05:04 PM | #45 |
RIP Alex
Name: Cuong
Location: Houston, TX
Join Date: Apr 2011 Motorcycle(s): '10 250r, '09 265r Posts: A lot.
Blog Entries: 2
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I still need to send in 2 more samples. They're just sitting here on the counter.
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HalfFast Racing Team Serving Greater Houston Area Riders:WFO Riders MotoHouston HPC CMRA Ride Smart Fastline Lone Star Track Days |
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November 6th, 2012, 05:56 PM | #46 | |
ninjette.org guru
Name: Jason
Location: Houston, TX
Join Date: Nov 2011 Motorcycle(s): 2007 Ninja 250 (sold), '06 Ninja 650R Posts: 455
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Quote:
If I was writing the specs that is what I would do. |
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November 6th, 2012, 06:07 PM | #47 |
So, where's the reverse?
Name: Anson
Location: Ontario, Canada
Join Date: Nov 2010 Motorcycle(s): 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 250R Posts: A lot.
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The owner of that '04 Honda CBR600F4i with over 244,000 miles and counting used Mobil 1 car oil from 5,000 miles. At 200,000 miles he switched over to Rotella T6. The bike is on the original engine and clutch. He says he changed the oil every 5000 miles on the dot. Same owner also has over 400,000 miles on his Honda car. Also used Mobil 1.
In the link, he has pictures of the internals of his car engine and it looks spotless. I'm not saying to follow his lead and use car oil but as long as you do regular oil changes, any type meeting the specs should do fine. CBR600F4i 200,000 Miles |
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November 8th, 2012, 11:40 AM | #48 |
ninjette.org newbie
Name: Mark
Location: Bay Area, CA
Join Date: Nov 2012 Motorcycle(s): A few Posts: 3
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I use Mobil 1 car oil in both my race Ninja and my street Ninja. Comparatively cheap and works very well.
I've used it in the race Ninja for the past 4 seasons with great results. On the last motor refresh (after 7,000 track-only miles), there was only minor wear showing on some of the bearings. I change the oil after every race event, and the filter after every other race event. The street Ninja gets her oil and filter changed every 3k miles. |
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November 25th, 2013, 10:43 AM | #49 | |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): '06 SV650n, '00 Derbi GPR, '64 CA77 Dream 305, '70 CL450 Scrambler, numerous dirt bikes Posts: A lot.
MOTM - Jun '18, Oct '16
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Quote:
DO NOT run regular auto oil (Mobil 1, GTX, Pennzoil Platinum, whatever) in your Ninja engine! Oils have changed over the years, as have auto engines. Current auto oils have unsafe levels of ZDDP (Zinc and Phosphorus). ZDDP's job is to protect the cams from galling on engines with solid lifter/rockers - like most cycle engines. Current auto engines use roller lifters/rockers that don't need high levels of ZDDP, and regulations forced reductions in ZDDP levels to extend the life of the emissions catalyst. Diesel oils like Rotella, Delvac, etc have safe levels of ZDDP, and are a MUCH better choice for a low-cost oil for almost any cycle application. |
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