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Old December 24th, 2008, 07:00 AM   #1
bprayogo
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Jetting Database - Discussion Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by kkim View Post
redid jetting yet again....

YEAR: 2008

INTAKE MODIFICATIONS: air box removed. K&N R-0990 Filter

EXHAUST MODIFICATIONS:Area P Quiet core full system, Kleen air system removed

JET KIT OR STOCK? Jet Kit

BRAND OF JET KIT? Factory Pro

MAIN JET: 110

NEEDLE AND CLIP POSITION: 4

MIXTURE SCREW SETTINGS: 2-3/4 turns out from bottom, initially

ELEVATION: sea level to 3800 ft.

MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION ABOUT YOUR BIKE’S JETTING SETUP:

Went one step leaner on the main from a 112 to a 110. Bike pulled a bit better all the way to redline.

When I did that, the midrange was anemic and the bike showed signs of being lean at idle, (long warm up and had to use choke a lot to get the bike warm) so I moved the clip from the 3rd position to the 4th. Midrange improved greatly and warmup barely needs choke at cold startup.

Had to redo the mixture crews settings. I've found the best way to set it is to the turn it in till the idle starts dropping then turn it back out about 1/8 to 1/4 turn. I fine tune the exact mixture screw position by blipping the throttle when the bike is fully warm and watch how the tach needle settles down to the set idle speed. If it hangs above the idle speed, then comes down, the bike is a bit lean and I turn the mixture screw out (CCW) about 1/8 of a turn on both carbs. If you blip the throttle and the idle falls below the set idle speed and then comes back up, the mixture is rich and you need to turn the mixture screw CW about 1/8 turn. Repeat until you get it so when you blip the throttle, the idle settles back to your preset idle speed. I use 1500RPM as my idle speed only because it is easy to read precisely on the tach face.

Bike now idles fine, rips through the midrange and pulls all the way to redline with no problems. It may not be perfect,yet, but it is better than my previous setup. Will live with this for awhile to see if it has any shortcomings. I have not heard any pinging from the smaller 110 main.
thanks for inviting me
I suggest you try putting back the needle on 3rd position and slip a shim under it-4th position is a bit to rich
Also if you can advanced your timing by 4 degrees , your bike will be moree responsive on the low end, and your bike is gonna pullll all the way to redline, your power curve will move to the right until limiter kicks in.
Great!! try it
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Old December 24th, 2008, 02:35 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bprayogo View Post
thanks for inviting me
I suggest you try putting back the needle on 3rd position and slip a shim under it-4th position is a bit to rich
Also if you can advanced your timing by 4 degrees , your bike will be moree responsive on the low end, and your bike is gonna pullll all the way to redline, your power curve will move to the right until limiter kicks in.
Great!! try it
Thanks I'll try the clip and washer.. so, it's like 3 1/2 clip postions instead of 4?

4 degrees ignition timing or cam timing?
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Old December 24th, 2008, 02:45 PM   #3
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Thanks I'll try the clip and washer.. so, it's like 3 1/2 clip postions instead of 4?
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Old December 24th, 2008, 03:04 PM   #4
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...more like "Yokel".
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Old December 24th, 2008, 04:24 PM   #5
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Here's what Factory Pro says about an ignition advancer for the 250's:

"Ignition Advance Kit - NOT for 250!

But, if we did make a specific 250 kit, it would make more lowend and midrange -

We do NOT NOT NOT NOT (not!) make an ignition advance kit for the ex250!
NOT! No!

BUT!!!!
The ex250 uses a large, 3 bolt flywheel puller that only a dealer would have.
The woodruff key from the RTR-KAW-5-05 is the same key that fits the 250.....

If you buy the RTR-KAW-5-05 kit, you can use the supplied woodruff key and the installation instructions for the ex500...... and you'll have a nice ex500 flywheel puller tool, too!
NO. You can't buy the key without the puller, I know you can't use the puller - but - as I said, I don't make a 250 kit......"
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Old December 24th, 2008, 05:51 PM   #6
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4 degrees ignition timing.the mod won't increase top end power,but definitely acceleration and low end response. we make our own puller
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Old December 24th, 2008, 05:55 PM   #7
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is this just a matter of removing the flywheel , loosening the base plate and rotating it or is there a part involved?
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Old December 24th, 2008, 06:20 PM   #8
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yup, thats it! some recommends changing the front sprocket one tooth up to 15, I suggest leaving the front alone and drop 1 tooth from the back to 44 . That with advancing the timing really make the bike more fun to ride
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Old May 7th, 2009, 07:08 PM   #9
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Any advice appreciated

I am new to wrenching on bikes.

I can't get my bike to run enough to even figure out the proper jetting.

Last summer my 08 ran well with a full system Area P(standard can) . I didn't have the starting and mid range problems others experienced. Over the winter I removed the airbox/Kleen air tubing, added the K&N R-0990, drilled the slides with #70 bit, and installed small filter on top of the crankcase. I have tried many combinations with my Factory Pro kit. With all the combinations my bike only starts with full choke and has inconsistent rpms from 1k - 4K.

Per the instructions, I wanted to start with top end, but even warmed up I can't get past 4k

Even going back to stock jetting doesn't help.

I have thoroughly cleaned and inspected the carbs since winter.

I realize there are many, many, many variables...but is there something I am overlooking?
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Old May 7th, 2009, 07:17 PM   #10
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what size are your main jets?
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Old May 7th, 2009, 07:19 PM   #11
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I have tried Keihin 110, 112, 115 and stock 98s
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Old May 7th, 2009, 07:24 PM   #12
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mains should be 110-112 Keihins with the separate filter setup, so you sound like you're okay there. What's the clip position? also, could you have torn a diaphragm?
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Old May 7th, 2009, 07:32 PM   #13
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Diaphragms look good.

I have tried the e-clip at /2, /3, /4 with various shim combinations top/bottom. I also tried shimming stock needles with 98 mains to the same results.
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Old May 7th, 2009, 07:54 PM   #14
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mixture screw settings?
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Old May 7th, 2009, 08:05 PM   #15
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Unhappy

I always start at 2 or 2.5 turns out from tight,on both(with factory pro needles) and have probably gone from 1 to 5 in small even increments.

When you add shims above the e-clip, do you top it off with another e-clip to hold them down?

I have tried new spark plugs, both sets looked dark/oily, but I have been doing so much starting/dying with choke....

I have tried restricting the K&N with masking tape....and tried without any filter

????????????????????????????
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Old May 7th, 2009, 08:15 PM   #16
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My Dynojet kit came with only 2 clips total, so apparently it's not necessary to stick another one on top. Although I can understand why Kelly put extra ones on top of his needles, and if I had 2 extra clips I would probably do the same even though I already sleep well at night as is.

The white plastic retainer + the spring are probably enough to hold it all in place but with another clip to top it all off, you know 100% that nothing will be coming apart in there.
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Old May 7th, 2009, 08:34 PM   #17
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I agree Lurk, but I am starting to second guess/question everything.
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Old July 14th, 2009, 10:10 PM   #18
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Old July 14th, 2009, 10:47 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kkim View Post
Hello,with factorypro kit,you should try putting the eclip on the 1st needle groove,leanest setting.also check all your vacum hoses,
Make sure u plug everything in.mainjet is 110.
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Old July 14th, 2009, 10:58 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bprayogo View Post
Hello,with factorypro kit,you should try putting the eclip on the 1st needle groove,leanest setting.also check all your vacum hoses,
Make sure u plug everything in.mainjet is 110.
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Are you asking a question or making a statement? Because I think Kkim Bump because he wanted to help out other poeple.
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Old July 14th, 2009, 11:31 PM   #21
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Chris,

I think Brahmantio was responding to Tigerpaw's problem... I hope so, as I'm stumped as to what his problem is/was.
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Old July 16th, 2009, 03:23 AM   #22
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yes Im addressing to tigerpaws problem .
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Old August 30th, 2009, 12:18 PM   #23
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alright guys i need some help....
tomorrow my sportisi vr full exhaust and brt tis ignition setup will arrive...
now im in need of a jet kit to be able to install my new goodies....
please point me into the right direction.....i plan on keeping the air box but removing the snorkel for now maybe after ill do the air box delete but not now...
thanks guys!..
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Old August 30th, 2009, 01:28 PM   #24
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^^ if you're going to pull the carb out, might as well pull the airbox now...save you tons of time removing stuffs...also give you tons of room to tune.
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Old August 30th, 2009, 01:35 PM   #25
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I am having the same problem. My V6R exhaust will be done getting powdercoated on tues and I am with out a jet kit yet. I am thinking the Factory Pro kit will be my decision. After reading this thread it is a bit daunting to say the least
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Old August 30th, 2009, 02:02 PM   #26
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I always say DJ if your just doing the exhaust and stopping. Factory pro if you plan on other mods and there is more in their kit anyways plus you can get their complete kit with air filters. If all else fails get dj then when you mod more down the road go to www.jetsrus.com for new main jets.
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Old August 30th, 2009, 03:31 PM   #27
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Quote:
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I always say DJ if your just doing the exhaust and stopping. Factory pro if you plan on other mods and there is more in their kit anyways plus you can get their complete kit with air filters. If all else fails get dj then when you mod more down the road go to www.jetsrus.com for new main jets.
well im just doing the exhaust/snorkel romoval/plus the brt tis...
but im low on cash...andi plan on leaving like taht for a while...will the dj stage 2 yield me the 14000 rpm rev limit?
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Old August 30th, 2009, 03:35 PM   #28
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Rigo, pulling out airbox is free

btw, check your PM yoo!!!
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Old August 30th, 2009, 03:42 PM   #29
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Rigo, pulling out airbox is free

btw, check your PM yoo!!!
but if i pull out the air box i got to install the filter pods which are an extra 50-60 bucks bro...
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Old August 30th, 2009, 04:12 PM   #30
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Rigo I never use a 100 main wih te tis so I can't give you an honest answer. You will know if you flat line at 12500 if you need a size bigger.
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Old August 30th, 2009, 06:49 PM   #31
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ok..if i get the stage 2 kit and purchase the 112 main jet....well its still cheaper than the factory pro ...so i can do that right?
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Old August 30th, 2009, 09:56 PM   #32
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yup when it is neeed. I would move to a 40 pilot jet first. Then the 112's when you get a pod filter
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Old September 8th, 2009, 05:16 PM   #33
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Do you recommend switching up to a #40 pilot screw when pulling the airbox? I know FP adds them in their kits (or at least the stage 1 kit, haven't seen an inventory of the stage 3), but I've got a DJ.
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Old September 8th, 2009, 05:20 PM   #34
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Paul,

I read your comments in the jetting database. Try raising the needle one notch (4th from the top) to lean out the midrange to get the bike to pull harder.

Too rich makes the bike go "flat"/bog.

Welcome to the fun world of fine tuning your jetting.
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Old September 16th, 2009, 08:57 AM   #35
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my settings, for reference: http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...7&postcount=20

i'm pretty sure i've got a flat spot between 4-6k so some time in the next few days i'm going to drop another washer in there. i think i've also figured out my heat issues. i had some supicions that it was running a bit lean and i'm pretty sure i'm half right. it seems to be ok above 7-8k but below that it's a little weird. i didn't mess with the idle mix screws because i couldn't drill them off, i realized i was doing it wrong and should have used a screw intead of just trying to drill them out. so i'm thinking that it's heating up a bit when i stop because it's lean at idle, and it's a bit hot and funny in the mid because it needs another washer or two. i guess i underestimated how much air removing the snorkle sends through the box.
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Old September 16th, 2009, 09:13 AM   #36
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I would recommend going back to the 98s and raise the needles with another washer or 2.

These bikes are a bit rich in the main stock and lean in the idle and midrange. removing the snorkel gets the top end about right and raising the needle w/ at least 2 washers compensates for the lean condition in the lower rev range.
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Old September 16th, 2009, 09:41 AM   #37
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if it's a tiny bit rich in the top i'm ok with that. i don't feel any bogs or hesitation when ripping from 7-12k. freeway onramp at 40-50mph in 4th gear then WOT to get up to speed feels GREAT, so i think for now i'm going to leave the jet alone. if the 100 was too much i'd feel some bog opening it up like that, no?

washers are definitely going in tonight or tomorrow though. i also managed to find a offset screwdriver at Harbor Freight since the Milwaukee one was impossible to find local, so i think i'll fuss with the idle screws as well.

if i don't get to it tonight, i probably won't be able to until next week as my folks are in town this weekend. i'll update once i get it done.

ez
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Old September 16th, 2009, 09:45 AM   #38
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if it's a tiny bit rich in the top i'm ok with that. i don't feel any bogs or hesitation when ripping from 7-12k. freeway onramp at 40-50mph in 4th gear then WOT to get up to speed feels GREAT, so i think for now i'm going to leave the jet alone. if the 100 was too much i'd feel some bog opening it up like that, no?

washers are definitely going in tonight or tomorrow though. i also managed to find a offset screwdriver at Harbor Freight since the Milwaukee one was impossible to find local, so i think i'll fuss with the idle screws as well.

if i don't get to it tonight, i probably won't be able to until next week as my folks are in town this weekend. i'll update once i get it done.

ez
if the main is too rich, it will feel flat at the top end.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_to_...e_your_jetting
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Old September 26th, 2009, 08:43 PM   #39
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finally got some time to put in another washer. so just to refresh

YEAR:2009
INTAKE MODIFICATIONS: no snorkle
EXHAUST MODIFICATIONS: stock
JET KIT OR STOCK? OEM jet
BRAND OF JET KIT? OEM
MAIN JET: keihin #100
NEEDLE AND CLIP POSITION: stock needle, two washers
MIXTURE SCREW SETTINGS: stock
ELEVATION: 0-500

it rips from 3k as far as i dared on the ride this evening. no hesitation at all.my idle dropped a little and i actually ended up setting it lower than i had it before, so i think my idle heating issue is done.

warmed up at idle if i blip the throttle it drops right back down, no hanging like it used to. so i think this setup is good for my bike. now come spring i'm going to mess it all up and put an exhaust on
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Old September 28th, 2009, 07:21 PM   #40
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YEAR:2008
INTAKE MODIFICATIONS: no snorkle (stock box & filter)
EXHAUST MODIFICATIONS: CF AreaP 15" QC
JET KIT OR STOCK? jet kit
BRAND OF JET KIT? DynoJet stage 2
MAIN JET: #98
NEEDLE AND CLIP POSITION: e-clip #3 from top
MIXTURE SCREW SETTINGS: umm.. mechanic did it, i think it was 4 turns?
ELEVATION: 0-500

yesterday i managed to find a Dyno here in Bali thanks to Sportisi Indonesia!

they charge $5 per run, so i'm hoping to get a chance to test out my bike soon. i went there yesterday after work, but it was already late, and they asked me to come back another day.

they are also selling the BRT TIS (with remote) for about $250, including installation and tuning on the dyno, i might do that as my next mod. ill use the occasion to also test the bike with #100 main jets, and the e clips on a richer setting. to see if its possible to improve the bike any more on that front.

will drop an update once i get some data from the dyno
oh, and they told me that on average a stock 250, gets about 24.5 Hp, so I'm curious if its all in my head or if my bike has indeed improved since i did the mods with AreaP exhaust and the jet kit, and just how much I've gained.
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