Paint my Tyga muffler?

Red250R · April 29th, 2014, 12:07 PM

So this is what my Tyga carbon muffler is supposed to look like...

Instead this is what it decides to look like after a couple rides in the rain last year lol...

Ignore the wet spot on the muffler. Its been POURING all day and slight drips on her unfortunately. Anyways, can anyone chime in as to whether I can paint it or not? Just the can i mean. It looks ugly and extremely unattractive. I'd imagine yes i can paint it, but having someone else chime in would be a good reassurance. On the Ninja 250 wiki it says one guy prepped very well (obviously), then applied 3 thin coats of 1200 degree flat black BBQ paint by Krylon. Then used 500 degree clear Engine Enamel by Duplicolor.

alex.s · April 29th, 2014, 12:41 PM

i'd be pretty surprised if the outside got above 300f

should be fine to paint after prep work

Red250R · April 29th, 2014, 12:45 PM

I just don't want to have to do this more than once. I figured it didn't get as hot as the stock metal ones but input from others always helps me make up my mind. Thanks. See if anyone else can chime in as well.

beniblanco · May 1st, 2014, 03:17 PM

A good car wax and buffing might help bring it back to life a bit. But if you don't want to go with the all black paint route then just sand and clear coat it. If all else fails then go with the high temp black paint, it should be fine. Whatever you do you will still have a nice light weight performance muffler.

Red250R · May 1st, 2014, 04:15 PM

i tried waxing and buffing it but for some reason it wouldn't return to the original shade. Took it off the bike a couple days ago and tried a couple difference cleaners too in case it was a coating of grime or something built up. I have a feeling painting it is the only option which doesn't really bother me very much. Having a gloss black muffler fits perfectly with my bike. I'll just tape off the Tyga badge so it still shows. Pretty slick if you ask me.

jkv45 · May 1st, 2014, 08:14 PM

I'd talk to Tyga before working on it. It looks like the resin has broken-down - which shouldn't happen on a quality piece.

To do a nice paint job you'd need to drill-out all the rivets and completely disassemble the muffler.

It will need to be cleaned well with a "wax and grease remover" before you start prepping it because it was recently waxed. You will not get paint to stick, or even get a reasonable paint job at all, if there is any wax on it. Once it's completely clean, sand the resin with 320 (wet) sandpaper until it is evenly dull. Then clean again with alcohol.

You don't need primer or high heat (1200) paint that far back, but an engine paint may be more durable than standard spray. A black "wheel paint" may also work OK if you can't find an engine paint. Start with 3 medium-wet coats of paint with some dry-time in between coats. Let it dry overnight and see how it looks. You may need to let it dry longer (maybe 72 hours total - read the label) before spraying more. If you decide to spray more, I'd sand the paint with 320 wet again (stop sanding when you see the resin just start to come through) and wipe clean (no alcohol this time) before shooting 2 more medium-wet coats.

Whatever you use, you may not get that good of durability. I would expect it may scratch-off fairly easily no matter how well you prep it or what paint you use.

One additional note - a color with a higher gloss is usually more durable than one with a flat finish. A flat finish will show a scuff much easier, and can't be repaired. A gloss finish doesn't usually scuff as easily, and if it does it can be polished to even-out or remove the scuff. The High Heat paints are usually very flat, and will show normal scuffing quicker than an Engine Paint that has more gloss. Adding a gloss clear coat can improve the durability, but you need to make sure you have compatible paints and get good adhesion (by applying clear before the base is fully cured or by sanding the fully cured base) between the base and the clear or it will peel. Clear will also add thickness, and if the paint is overly thick to start with adding clear can cause issues like cracking and peeling.

NinjaZX6R123 · May 1st, 2014, 08:55 PM

I painted my muffler before. Didn't even properly prep it. Just degreased it and on went the paint. It turned out good and the paint never cracked. If my muffler looked like that, I'd definitely paint it.

Red250R · May 2nd, 2014, 09:42 AM

@jkv45 thanks for the steps. I already sanded it down last night but didn't get a chance to spray it yet.
@NinjaZX6R123 what type of muffler did you have? And what kind of paint did you use?

NinjaZX6R123 · May 2nd, 2014, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red250R

@jkv45 thanks for the steps. I already sanded it down last night but didn't get a chance to spray it yet.
@NinjaZX6R123 what type of muffler did you have? And what kind of paint did you use?

I wanted the matte black look so just used the high heat paint and I had a HMF exhaust at the time.

subxero · May 2nd, 2014, 12:18 PM

Tyga style

Red250R · May 2nd, 2014, 12:46 PM

@NinjaZX6R123 was it stainless or CF?

As for you @subxero lol yes. I love my Tyga. Sounds great

NinjaZX6R123 · May 2nd, 2014, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red250R

@NinjaZX6R123 was it stainless or CF?

As for you @subxero lol yes. I love my Tyga. Sounds great

stainless

April 29th, 2014, 12:07 PM	#1
Red250R ninjette.org guru Name: Scott Location: Buffalo, NY Join Date: Mar 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: 257	Paint my Tyga muffler? So this is what my Tyga carbon muffler is supposed to look like... Instead this is what it decides to look like after a couple rides in the rain last year lol... Ignore the wet spot on the muffler. Its been POURING all day and slight drips on her unfortunately. Anyways, can anyone chime in as to whether I can paint it or not? Just the can i mean. It looks ugly and extremely unattractive. I'd imagine yes i can paint it, but having someone else chime in would be a good reassurance. On the Ninja 250 wiki it says one guy prepped very well (obviously), then applied 3 thin coats of 1200 degree flat black BBQ paint by Krylon. Then used 500 degree clear Engine Enamel by Duplicolor.

April 29th, 2014, 12:41 PM	#2
alex.s wat Name: wat Location: tustin/long beach Join Date: Sep 2009 Motorcycle(s): wat Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 5 MOTM - Oct '12, Feb '14	i'd be pretty surprised if the outside got above 300f should be fine to paint after prep work __________________________________________________

May 1st, 2014, 08:14 PM	#6
jkv45 Rev Limiter Name: Jay Location: WI Join Date: Jul 2013 Motorcycle(s): '06 SV650n, '00 Derbi GPR, '64 CA77 Dream 305, '70 CL450 Scrambler, numerous dirt bikes Posts: A lot. MOTM - Jun '18, Oct '16	I'd talk to Tyga before working on it. It looks like the resin has broken-down - which shouldn't happen on a quality piece. To do a nice paint job you'd need to drill-out all the rivets and completely disassemble the muffler. It will need to be cleaned well with a "wax and grease remover" before you start prepping it because it was recently waxed. You will not get paint to stick, or even get a reasonable paint job at all, if there is any wax on it. Once it's completely clean, sand the resin with 320 (wet) sandpaper until it is evenly dull. Then clean again with alcohol. You don't need primer or high heat (1200) paint that far back, but an engine paint may be more durable than standard spray. A black "wheel paint" may also work OK if you can't find an engine paint. Start with 3 medium-wet coats of paint with some dry-time in between coats. Let it dry overnight and see how it looks. You may need to let it dry longer (maybe 72 hours total - read the label) before spraying more. If you decide to spray more, I'd sand the paint with 320 wet again (stop sanding when you see the resin just start to come through) and wipe clean (no alcohol this time) before shooting 2 more medium-wet coats. Whatever you use, you may not get that good of durability. I would expect it may scratch-off fairly easily no matter how well you prep it or what paint you use. One additional note - a color with a higher gloss is usually more durable than one with a flat finish. A flat finish will show a scuff much easier, and can't be repaired. A gloss finish doesn't usually scuff as easily, and if it does it can be polished to even-out or remove the scuff. The High Heat paints are usually very flat, and will show normal scuffing quicker than an Engine Paint that has more gloss. Adding a gloss clear coat can improve the durability, but you need to make sure you have compatible paints and get good adhesion (by applying clear before the base is fully cured or by sanding the fully cured base) between the base and the clear or it will peel. Clear will also add thickness, and if the paint is overly thick to start with adding clear can cause issues like cracking and peeling. Last futzed with by jkv45; May 2nd, 2014 at 01:20 PM.
	1 out of 1 members found this post helpful.

May 2nd, 2014, 12:18 PM	#10
subxero dirty boy Name: Joe Location: Johnstown, PA Join Date: Sep 2012 Motorcycle(s): I don't even know anymore?? Posts: A lot. MOTM - Apr '14	Tyga style __________________________________________________ I love the smell of burning pre-mix in the morning I don't think I'm a lot dumber than you thought that I think that I thought I was once.

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April 29th, 2014, 12:45 PM	#3
Red250R ninjette.org guru Name: Scott Location: Buffalo, NY Join Date: Mar 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: 257	I just don't want to have to do this more than once. I figured it didn't get as hot as the stock metal ones but input from others always helps me make up my mind. Thanks. See if anyone else can chime in as well.

May 1st, 2014, 03:17 PM	#4
beniblanco ninjette.org member Name: B Location: Ontario, Canada Join Date: Apr 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2011 black Ninja 250r Posts: 114	A good car wax and buffing might help bring it back to life a bit. But if you don't want to go with the all black paint route then just sand and clear coat it. If all else fails then go with the high temp black paint, it should be fine. Whatever you do you will still have a nice light weight performance muffler.

May 1st, 2014, 04:15 PM	#5
Red250R ninjette.org guru Name: Scott Location: Buffalo, NY Join Date: Mar 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: 257	i tried waxing and buffing it but for some reason it wouldn't return to the original shade. Took it off the bike a couple days ago and tried a couple difference cleaners too in case it was a coating of grime or something built up. I have a feeling painting it is the only option which doesn't really bother me very much. Having a gloss black muffler fits perfectly with my bike. I'll just tape off the Tyga badge so it still shows. Pretty slick if you ask me.

May 1st, 2014, 08:55 PM	#7
NinjaZX6R123 ninjette.org guru Name: Ninja Location: USA Join Date: Mar 2014 Motorcycle(s): 2013 Ninja ZX6R, 2009 Ninja 250R Posts: 256	I painted my muffler before. Didn't even properly prep it. Just degreased it and on went the paint. It turned out good and the paint never cracked. If my muffler looked like that, I'd definitely paint it.

May 2nd, 2014, 09:42 AM	#8
Red250R ninjette.org guru Name: Scott Location: Buffalo, NY Join Date: Mar 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: 257	@jkv45 thanks for the steps. I already sanded it down last night but didn't get a chance to spray it yet. @NinjaZX6R123 what type of muffler did you have? And what kind of paint did you use?

May 2nd, 2014, 12:46 PM	#11
Red250R ninjette.org guru Name: Scott Location: Buffalo, NY Join Date: Mar 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2008 Ninja 250R Posts: 257	@NinjaZX6R123 was it stainless or CF? As for you @subxero lol yes. I love my Tyga. Sounds great