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Old July 6th, 2014, 11:03 PM   #1
Gmon
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Clutch Won't Disengage

I have a 2005 ninja 250 that I haven't riden in a couple weeks. When I started it up I noticed the clutch lever had a lot of slack. I followed it to the bolt on the side of the bike and noticed it isn't giving any tension to the clutch cable. When I shift out of neutral with my hand on the brakes it just lurches forward and stalls. I've tried looking this up on other sites but can't seem to find anyone with my same problem.

Any ideas on what it could be?
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Old July 6th, 2014, 11:13 PM   #2
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Welcome to the Forum

I do not know what you mean by following it to the "bolt" the cable should have an end in the clutch lever perch and it should go down to the motor where it will have a cable adjuster for the outer sheath and the cable will be attached to the clutch release actuator arm.

Ok- Look over the entire length of the clutch cable and make sure that neither of the ends snapped off. Make certain the outer sheath is still intact. if the cable is loose it may have snapped in the middle some where and you will find that out by pulling on the cable and seeing if it comes out of the sheath. I would work from the clutch lever perch end to test and see if the cable is continuous or broken in the middle.


Check and make certain the adjusters that are at either end did not come loose, vibrate off or come apart. It seems to me that the cable, adjustments or fasteners would fail first.

Now that you looked it over and determined that the cable did not fail

Try to adjust the cable to have tension on it and then see if the clutch disengages. Don't force anything and stop putting it into gear when it is running. It is not good for the drive train or motor to be slammed into gear and stalled out repeatedly.

Beyond that you would have to remove the clutch cover and determine if there is a part that failed

Sometimes those two parts can wear and or bend and jam up so the clutch doesn't work.
It is usually a result of the bike being crashed and the clutch lever or clutch arm being impacted.
13102 - Clutch actuator
45102 - clutch shaft

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/File:CLUTCH.png
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Old July 7th, 2014, 04:29 AM   #3
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There are two place to adjust the clutch. Try loosening it at the lever first then adjust it properly at the clutch (on the engine).
Loosen the adjuster bolts a little, then fine tune the adjustment at the lever.
Pull the clutch lever just enough to take up the free play
Measure the gap between the lever and the lever holder.
If the gap is too wide, the clutch may not release fully.
If the gap is too narrow, the clutch may not engage fully.
In either case, adjust it. Clutch Lever Free Play Standard is: 2 ~ 3 mm

Also you can try here http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Adjusting_the_clutch_cable
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Old July 7th, 2014, 10:59 AM   #4
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Thanks for the speedy replies! I have checked the clutch cable and it seems to be working fine since when I move it back and forth it moves the clutch actuator (bolt) without any problems besides there being no resistance. So I took off the cover to the clutch and had a look, and to me the clutch actuator and shaft look intact. could they have come loose or apart, and I just need to put it back together correctly?

And yes; this bike was in a low speed accident but I have ridden it since with no problems whatsoever.
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Old July 7th, 2014, 01:59 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Gmon View Post
Thanks for the speedy replies! I have checked the clutch cable and it seems to be working fine since when I move it back and forth it moves the clutch actuator (bolt) without any problems besides there being no resistance...........
Welcome to Ninjette.org !!!

How did you get part 46102 out of the clutch assembly?
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Old July 7th, 2014, 02:36 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Motofool View Post
Welcome to Ninjette.org !!!

How did you get part 46102 out of the clutch assembly?
I was able to remove it once I took out the 4 bolts and springs that held part 13187 in.
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Old July 7th, 2014, 03:45 PM   #7
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when it slips out and gets stuck outside the shift linkage thing wont turn back between 9 and 6 o-clock. it gets stuck up around 11 or 12oclock. it probably is fine if you reassemble correctly
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Old July 7th, 2014, 04:31 PM   #8
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I was able to remove it once I took out the 4 bolts and springs that held part 13187 in.
Then, the problem was that part 13102 was not engaging and pulling part 46102 in order to separate the discs against the resistance of the springs.

The clutch was not really working.

Follow the indications of the above post for installing part 13102 correctly.
You should feel the strong resistance of the springs when you try rotating part 13102 clockwise (as seen from above).
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Old July 7th, 2014, 05:33 PM   #9
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So I put everything back together with new springs and there is still no resistance and the lever will only turn 90degrees just like before. Is there a special trick to installing these parts that I might be missing? or might there be a deeper problem?

The picture is of the lever at the top of its rotation.
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Old July 8th, 2014, 04:30 AM   #10
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There should be tension on the clutch release lever when you push up on it, if not it's installed wrong.

See this thread- https://www.ninjette.org/forums/show...5100#post75100
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Old July 8th, 2014, 09:21 AM   #11
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I am not sure I understand what is going on here.

you are saying that the lever on the clutch release actuator turns 90 deg with no resistance? and is that the case before you disassembled it?

When I read your original post it sounded like you said the cable had slack. but in fact the lever was moving without resistance and the actually lever on the clutch housing was not giving any resistance?
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Old July 8th, 2014, 09:41 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Klondike1020 View Post
I am not sure I understand what is going on here.

you are saying that the lever on the clutch release actuator turns 90 deg with no resistance? and is that the case before you disassembled it?

When I read your original post it sounded like you said the cable had slack. but in fact the lever was moving without resistance and the actually lever on the clutch housing was not giving any resistance?
Sorry, Let me try to clarify what's happening. So what's happening is the lever will only move 90degrees counter-clockwise from my previous picture until it won't move any more. I can freely move it without any resistance at all either way. This was exactly what was happening to me before.

Upon a closer inspection it looks like when the lever is fully clockwise it seems to be a couple millimeters out of it's socket compared to when it's flush at its counter-clockwise position. Could some o-rings be worn? or is this normal?
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Old July 8th, 2014, 06:33 PM   #13
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.......... Upon a closer inspection it looks like when the lever is fully clockwise it seems to be a couple millimeters out of it's socket compared to when it's flush at its counter-clockwise position. Could some o-rings be worn? or is this normal?
If you look down into the cavity where the shaft fits, you should see the head of that plunge that pulls the clutch assembly.

The notch by the lower end of the shaft is supposed to grab that head when you rotate the shaft clockwise.
The reason of the flat portion of the shaft is to clear the head of the plunge when you insert the shaft in until the notch and the plunge get aligned.
For that reason, in some cases, the shaft cannot be inserted all the way down and you need to find the proper height in order to get that grabbing-springy effect.

The top portion of the cavity has a needle bearing and an O-ring above it.
Use some motor oil on the shaft to facilitate finding the exact point of engagement.



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Old July 8th, 2014, 08:08 PM   #14
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This might be the same problem I have and am trying to resolve while my tires are on order... even after warmed up and ridden a few miles, the clutch drags with the lever all the way in. Have to get it up to about 3 or 4 thousand rpm or it'll just die (brakes on to stay still). It is pushable with effort when off, clutch lever pulled in, in first. Does this with free play set as per manual, and just for kicks adjusted so there's no freeplay (didn't ride it like this)...

Also what is the word the internet uses for dragging clutch?
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Old July 9th, 2014, 09:50 AM   #15
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I was able to take out the actuator when it was counterclockwise and see the knob of the shaft. I tried lining it up and it seems that I have it in the right spot but there is still no "springy" feeling. I'm at a total loss as to what's happening.
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Old July 9th, 2014, 07:01 PM   #16
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I was able to take out the actuator when it was counterclockwise and see the knob of the shaft. I tried lining it up and it seems that I have it in the right spot but there is still no "springy" feeling. I'm at a total loss as to what's happening.
It shouldn't be extremely difficult to engage both parts; maybe something else is wrong.

The springs get the package of discs pressed against each other.
The knob of the shaft is pulled out by the rotation of the actuator (via that notch), which pulls out the bearing, which pulls out the exterior plate against the resistance of the springs; hence, the springy effect.

Sorry that I can't help you any better in this case.
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Old July 9th, 2014, 08:01 PM   #17
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It sounds like you havent gotten the actuator rod to engage with the pull piston in the clutch plate.

I just went through all of this on my 2000. its a wee bit tricky, but the actuator arm and rod mustbe turned counterclockwise a good 90 degrees when the clutch cover goes on, rotate the actuator arm/rod back into its normal position, it should stop.

Now when you reattach the clutch cable, and adjust it properly, you should have springy effect. If you dont, you're not engaged properly, or your springs are missing (lol, not really plausible, I know).
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Old July 10th, 2014, 12:53 AM   #18
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I may be reading this wrong, but it sounds like the "no resistance"is the play between insertion and contacting the shaft, at this point you won't be able to turn it by hand, you will need the cable and lever connected and adjusted to actuate the clutch release.
As I said, I may be reading this wrong, but if not, hope it helps.
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Old July 10th, 2014, 02:16 AM   #19
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I may be reading this wrong, but it sounds like the "no resistance"is the play between insertion and contacting the shaft, at this point you won't be able to turn it by hand, you will need the cable and lever connected and adjusted to actuate the clutch release.
As I said, I may be reading this wrong, but if not, hope it helps.
Did you try hooking the cable and lever back up now that you are almost certain that the actuator is installed properly

You should not be able to turn the clutch actuator with your hands.
the Clutch lever- gives you tons of leverage to pull the cable and turn the actuator.

double check that the cable is not frayed and stretching.]]


we have not identified the original cause of the failure. If the actuator and the shaft were not damaged then that leads me to believe that the Cable was stretching or breaking
either that or the cable adjusters came loose and allowed slack to form.

I wish you were closer I woulve just rode over and looked at it :/
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Old July 10th, 2014, 11:16 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klondike1020 View Post
Did you try hooking the cable and lever back up now that you are almost certain that the actuator is installed properly

You should not be able to turn the clutch actuator with your hands.
the Clutch lever- gives you tons of leverage to pull the cable and turn the actuator.

double check that the cable is not frayed and stretching.]]
I won't be able to work on my bike for a couple days so I'll post when I can get back to it.

I was actually attempting to move the lever with my hands; so I'll try connecting it to the lever and see if the problem is fixed next time I get a chance. I've also checked the cable and it seems to be fine with no frays or suspicious areas.

Thanks again for everyone's help and speedy replies!
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Old July 27th, 2014, 12:22 PM   #21
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Sorry for the delay but I ran into some trouble (broke a head off of a bolt) but everything is now up and running. I put everything together and adjusted the clutch cable how I like it and now there are no more problems. I changed the springs so that might of been the problem or possibly the clutch cable slipped somehow and needed to be readjusted.

Anyways, thanks for the help! and I'm glad to say the bike is back on the road!
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Old September 23rd, 2019, 09:31 PM   #22
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This came up in a search today and I finally figured out what was wrong with mine. Made a complete DIY video for the clutch change. Hope it helps others that end up here!

https://youtu.be/7WfanW3tGZk
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