August 18th, 2016, 09:45 PM | #121 |
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August 19th, 2016, 03:00 PM | #122 |
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got some of the green plastigage .001 to .003 measurement.
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August 19th, 2016, 03:32 PM | #123 |
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That's some useful stuff
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August 19th, 2016, 04:45 PM | #124 |
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Clean the sealer off the case halves and put a piece of plastigage across the cranke and torque it down. Make sure not to spin the crank. Make a note of where the factory applied the RTV sealer so you know where to put the new stuff .
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August 19th, 2016, 05:00 PM | #125 |
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Should I do the balancer shaft too?
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August 19th, 2016, 05:08 PM | #126 | |
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Sorry to see all this deep surgery.
You may need this: https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=111031 Quote:
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August 19th, 2016, 05:15 PM | #127 | |
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Quote:
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August 19th, 2016, 05:57 PM | #128 |
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so when I was taking the cylinder head bolts off it took a little bit of muscle, I am reading through the FSM about re-assembly and it says to only use 18 ft-lb to re install. Does that seem correct?
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August 19th, 2016, 06:26 PM | #129 |
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It's either that or 24ft. Lbs. I'll check tomorrow morning, all my infos at the shop. Check the balance shaft clearance too,
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August 19th, 2016, 07:13 PM | #130 |
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Yes do the balancer also. The whole oil system is like a sealed system. If there is a gap in the balancer clearance then the pressure will be lower somplace else.
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August 19th, 2016, 08:43 PM | #131 |
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Makes sense. I have just been going into the garage and looking at everything disassembled. It seems to make sense. And reading the FSM about when reinstalling the crank and cams and lining everything up so it's in time. Seems pretty straight forward. I will post up some pics tomorrow after I get the case and clean it and then test the bearing clearances.
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August 19th, 2016, 08:54 PM | #132 |
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18ft lbs on the 250 head bolts. 24ft lbs on the 300. I new I got that somewhere. The 300 uses a different cylinder design that's probably why the different spec. The bolts are the same and I have used the higher spec even on the 250.
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August 19th, 2016, 08:55 PM | #133 |
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ok cool, one of the bolt heads looked a little rounded, but I tested it in the old case and was able to torque it just fine. I have 2 on order just in case, last thing I wanna do is strip that bolt.
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August 19th, 2016, 09:19 PM | #134 |
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in the manual it says to lube up certain places with a moly grease, any kind you guys suggest? I see a pricy loctite one, and then just like old school grease.
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August 19th, 2016, 11:00 PM | #135 | |
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Quote:
Usually comes in a squeeze tube and not real expensive. You'll use this on the bearings as well on final assembly. |
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August 20th, 2016, 08:42 AM | #136 |
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Smear it on the bearings (THINLY!) and add a drop or two of engine oil. It's the shiz!
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August 20th, 2016, 08:54 AM | #137 |
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I like to mix up a batch in a small cup or can lid and use a brush or finger tk smear it around.
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August 20th, 2016, 09:03 AM | #138 |
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Got the case. It has blue markings in it
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August 20th, 2016, 09:22 AM | #139 |
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so the case color marks are different, but the bearing colors are the same,, the crank ones had yellow paint, the balancer has blue.
looks like this came from a bike with a top end issue, lots of copper shards in the bottom of the case. Looks like I will spend a lot of time with brake parts cleaner and compressed air cleaning this thing thoroughly. |
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August 20th, 2016, 09:26 AM | #140 | |
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Quote:
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August 20th, 2016, 09:27 AM | #141 |
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hmm let me take a closer look at the bearings
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August 20th, 2016, 09:31 AM | #142 |
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Probably won't find anything since you didn't get the crank with it but it's good to look at the bearings for damage or wear. Since this person was selling the cases, the crank is probably toast.
If you want a second opinion, post up some pics.
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August 20th, 2016, 09:34 AM | #143 | |
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Quote:
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August 20th, 2016, 09:35 AM | #144 |
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so even with the case colors being off, but the bearing colors are the same and since I am going to swap bearings from my old case, am I ok to proceed?
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August 20th, 2016, 10:42 AM | #145 |
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Yup. Just clean and measure
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August 20th, 2016, 10:43 AM | #146 |
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August 20th, 2016, 11:42 AM | #147 |
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August 20th, 2016, 12:06 PM | #148 |
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I don't think so. Just run a file lightly across the serface to restore the gasket serface.
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August 20th, 2016, 12:18 PM | #149 |
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Use a sharp and rigid edge and keep it parallel to the matting surfaces.
The surfaces are very soft; be careful not to scratch it. If the remaining gasket is hard, no fluid is needed to remove the gross of the material.
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August 20th, 2016, 12:18 PM | #150 |
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August 20th, 2016, 12:22 PM | #151 |
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I prefer using a new blade of a box cutter; it is more rigid and less sharp.
Avoid smelling too much of brake cleaner; WD-40 is good to remove carbon deposits, like from the head of the pistons.
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August 20th, 2016, 01:51 PM | #152 |
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Thanks everyone ! I am in the process of cleaning it. I assume in order to heck clearance I can just do a dry fit then take it apart and lube everything up
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August 20th, 2016, 02:16 PM | #153 |
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That is about it. I just fit it all up dry and only use the big bolts to get the measurements. Being careful not to rotate anything
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August 20th, 2016, 04:18 PM | #154 |
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August 20th, 2016, 05:37 PM | #155 |
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ok I feel like I have everything clean enough, here are some pics.
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August 20th, 2016, 06:03 PM | #156 |
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Take compressed air and clean it more. Get every little fiber and piece of lint off the bearing areas and inside the cases. Blow out every passage to be sure they're clear.
Otherwise, good progress!
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August 20th, 2016, 06:17 PM | #157 |
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Ok will do. Then Iwill swap the bearings over and leave the rest of the case empty and use some of the moly I got from the store to install the bearings and use plastigage on the crank and balancer
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August 20th, 2016, 06:19 PM | #158 |
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Don't use any moly whatsoever until you plastigage.
Assemble it dry. Check. Then lube.
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August 20th, 2016, 06:21 PM | #159 |
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August 20th, 2016, 06:33 PM | #160 |
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Yes tk cleaning and blowing everything g out with compressed air. Clean clean clean is the way of the worrior.
Assemble everything dry with the plastiguage and be careful not to let anything turn at all. Then put just leave the bearing shells in the case(hopefully) unless the measurements are off. Then you use Molly lube on the crank and the counter bearings. I use an oil can worn a pump handle thing to squirt oil on the trans and all over the parts . Being careful to avoid any seal serface on the case half.
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