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Old July 19th, 2015, 08:51 PM   #1
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Yamaha FZR250R 3LN6 Restoration

Another bike, another thread. I paid $500 AUD for this bike and here's the condition it came in.

















Mockup with other fairings

http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?attach...6-a-jpg.10420/

Oil that came out of it... It has Delo 400 multigrade in it now



Wheel paint is in good condition underneath all the grime



Swingarm surface



Inside the carbies








Here's a link to what the bike would have once looked like. I intend to restore it to the same or better condition.

https://translate.google.com/transla...-text=&act=url

Here's some of the supplies I've picked up recently

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Old July 20th, 2015, 06:33 AM   #2
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lol wait ...... another one

Your just rubbing it in our faces now lol
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Old July 23rd, 2015, 01:10 AM   #3
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Bit of bike action today.

Wheel cleaning



Front sprocket cover muck



Headlight plug is wrong



Cleaned up the swingarm and front sprocket area. It only took 3 cans of degreaser.



Started the bike, and it went first go. Quite surprisingly, it also starts easily when hot.

Link to original page on YouTube.

Sounds like the cam chain is on the way out though. Got a new one ready to put in, just waiting on gaskets etc in the mail.

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Old July 26th, 2015, 12:55 AM   #4
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Work continues... replaced the thermostat and most of the coolant hoses. They really could have done a better design and not required so many bent hoses and different sized outlets. Wirewheel cleaned up the thermo housing nicely. Left hand side radiator bolt will need to be drilled out as it's been cross threaded.







Silicone hose in place. Tempted to chop off the pipe halfway down and just use hose, because it's a royal pain to get such a short hose into place without removing the thermostat housing, which is an annoying task itself.



New fuel hoses and filter. Doubt the fuel pump will arrive any time soon though. Need to get another rubber bracket for it, too.



Hmm... What was here before?



No deltabox stickers on this frame, so I cleaned it up with purple metal polish and but some bling on



Here's a shot of that sprocket. Long story with this, the short version is that all aftermarket sprockets sold only suit the 3LN1 engine which has a shorter driveshaft. The newer ones have a longer driveshaft. Blair at LiteTek has manufactured some correct thickness sprockets (9mm).

I'm not sure which way it's supposed to go, but to me it appears correctly centred with the raised edge on the inside - facing the driveshaft. You can see the carnage of when someone fits a 520 size chain and sprockets on the chain guide.





Here it is with the raised edge facing the sprocket cover

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Old July 31st, 2015, 12:32 AM   #5
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Got the wheels back from bike shop with a new rear tyre and new enough front tyre. New tyre valve stems as well. Also pictured is the coolant overflow tank, which is split, luckily another parts bike find will sort that out.



Removed rear disc... well stuffed.



New radiator cap



New rear sprocket





Waiting on a new rear disc to arrive before fitting the rear wheel
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Old August 2nd, 2015, 02:04 AM   #6
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I've placed the order for the fairings. None of the ebay mobs ever got back to me, so I went with Fairing Solutions Australia, whom I emailed today and got a response, so that's good.

To give you all an impression of the finished product:













Pumped!!!
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Old August 2nd, 2015, 08:49 AM   #7
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Old August 2nd, 2015, 09:45 AM   #8
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Old August 3rd, 2015, 06:59 AM   #9
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Old August 11th, 2015, 03:33 AM   #10
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All that lovely green crap that was in the carbs had since dried up. Bit of a threebond soak got rid of it.



In the middle of changing all the o-rings and gaskets



Carbs are done, unless I run into an issue while running them.
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Old August 11th, 2015, 07:42 AM   #11
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All that lovely green crap that was in the carbs had since dried up. Bit of a threebond soak got rid of it.


Dam! That's some serious stuff in there! I can't say I've ever seen that much crud in a floatbowl.

You've had your work cut-out for you on this - good job saving it!
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Old August 20th, 2015, 02:07 AM   #12
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Some more progress today.

Fuel pump arrived this week so got that installed, yet to test it.

Drilled out the pesky bolt stopping me from removing the radiator and got to work on the engine. I checked the valve clearances, and for once, they're all within spec. This fits with the story the previous owner gave me (bike sat after it was imported, and was rebuilt in 2010). Gave the rocker cover a soak in threebond and replaced the rocker cover gasket. As usual, the old ones turn to complete ratshit, but people reuse them & cover them in silicon gasket grap.



The old plugs. Serviceable, but the wrong heat range. Standard ones are NGK CR8E. The CR7E's were all replaced with CR8EIX - the iridium ones - just to see how the bike will go once back together. If worthwhile I'll change the ones in the blue bike as well. CR7E is one heat range too low, and will make bad things happen



Footpeg bling! Actually, in typical Japanese fashion, the originals are completely over-engineered. How do you over-engineer a footpeg rubber bit? By putting a steel plate and steel washers into them...





I replaced the rear brake pads, the old ones had completely had it & ruined the rear disc (replaced)



And snapped off the last remaining bleed nipple on the rear caliper...



So, how do you bleed your rear brakes when both bleed nipples are snapped off? Well, I had to remove the rear caliper, push the pistons in, getting brake fluid everywhere, put the new pads in & remount the caliper.

Then I drained the old brake fluid out (goodness knows if it was ever replaced before today) and filled the reservoir with new stuff. Now comes the fun part!

I Had to push the rear brake lever down, slightly undo the brake line to the caliper, forcing the air and fluid out, nip it up & then release the brake lever, which sucks more fluid into the system from the reservoir. Did this a few times and topped up the reservoir. Repeat until only fluid comes out of the line when you undo it, and the lever actually engages the rear brake.

I don't even want to think about the front brakes at the moment. It was hard enough just replacing the pads on the other bike.

Since my helper got the sprocket hub bearing and seal in, I refitted the new rear sprocket and mounted the rear wheel, greased the axle and spacers. While the brake caliper was off, you could spin the wheel by hand and it would keep spinning for a minute or two at least. I love new bearings!

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Old August 21st, 2015, 03:44 AM   #13
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Sanded & painted rear subframe today





Replaced the pads & fluid in the front brakes. They were very gross but cleaned up nicely

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Old September 3rd, 2015, 07:19 PM   #14
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Old September 6th, 2015, 01:48 AM   #15
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We bought another one, yet another 3LN6, and a carload of spares. 3 spare engines















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Old September 7th, 2015, 09:25 AM   #16
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I'm so jealous that these arent available in the states!
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Old September 8th, 2015, 06:39 AM   #17
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We bought another one, yet another 3LN6, and a carload of spares. 3 spare engines
lol, how many is that now?
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Old September 8th, 2015, 10:08 PM   #18
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lol, how many is that now?
2 are mine, 2 are my dads', 1 with our neighbour and at least 2.5 bikes as spare parts.
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Old September 9th, 2015, 03:24 PM   #19
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Forks... One down, one to go









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Old September 21st, 2015, 03:57 PM   #20
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Got the new fairings this morning















Unfortunately, they stuffed up the front cowling and gave it the dual headlight cutout and the 3LN3+ screen tabs (the long bits). Fortunately we should be able to still fit a round headlight into it. It won't be as it left the factory though. Easily fixed by painting one of the many front cowls we have.

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Old September 24th, 2015, 01:50 AM   #21
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Warning: Novel Incoming

Regarding the fairings, the incorrect pieces are going to be replaced with the correct ones at no cost to me, so that's nice. I expect I'll be waiting another few weeks at least - that's fine, it gives me time to get the fuel tank overhauled & repainted. It'll look the goods with the new fairings.

Today I moved the bike back to my garage. I've started work and soon will only have 1 day off a week between work and study. Since the virgin fizzer suffered a water pump failure & after replacing all the seals and bearings in it, it STILL leaked, it has been punished.



I've removed all the bits I need from it to get it running. It took me all day, but I got the 3LN6 mostly assembled and running on all 4. I love these carbs with the new needle design so far. I wager the new iridium plugs help a bit as well. After getting some fuel in it started no worries. Very little white smoke out the back until everything warmed up, then no smoke at all.

There was a lot of faffing about with the fuel hoses though... the outlet from the tap to the fuel pump & carbs spring a leak. You could actually pull it out with your hand. The spare was stuck solid and I think that's how it's supposed to be. To fix it without changing taps, I turned the tap off, pulled the outlet hose off & dried it out, and then used this stuff called Rapidfix - it's great. It's like a 2 part epoxy but one part is powder and the other is liquid. Once you mix them it starts hardening straight away.

Got some of that on there, tapped the outlet back onto the fuel tap as the adhesive was hardening already, left it for 5 minutes and it's worked - no more fuel leak out of the fuel tap!

But - there was another issue with the fueling system. The fuel pump was going but wasn't getting any fuel. I tried swapping the hoses on the pump but then I just got bubbles in the fuel tank - the hoses were correct the first time. The issue ended up being the brand new ryco fuel filter - couldn't get any fuel through it. Switching back to the bodgy car one (which incidentally worked fine and captured rust flakes from the tank) which is clear, turn ignition on and it fills up with fuel and the pump goes quiet, indicating it's getting fuel through it!

As I said, started up without an issue and running on all 4. Nearly finished getting it rideable. Just need to put the screen, mirrors & fairings on, and whack the new drive chain on. Then ready for a blueslip. I think the wheels look good with the blue fairings & tank. Still going with the original colours though.



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Old September 30th, 2015, 07:10 PM   #22
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Link to original page on YouTube.

Well my 3LN6 engine got noisy, and then it got worse, so I've decided to swap engines with my other bike (water pump fixed).

The carbs had an issue with the float needle in number 4 which caused it to fill the cylinder with fuel. That was fun, I think it hydrolocked the engine and made the noise worse. Fiddled with the float and seems like its closing properly now, no leakage.


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Old September 30th, 2015, 08:20 PM   #23
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Hi, can you please help me out with some info? Can you please let me know the rim sizes and weights of these bikes? I want a set of 17x3 and 17x4.5 rims front and back, with a dual disc front. Was wondering if these would be a good candidate. Thanks a ton and good luck with the building!!!
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Old September 30th, 2015, 08:35 PM   #24
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Sorry I don't know the dimensions, I'll see if I can find them for you.
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Old September 30th, 2015, 09:17 PM   #25
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Sorry I don't know the dimensions, I'll see if I can find them for you.
Thanks a bunch, it's bound to be written on the wheels.
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Old October 5th, 2015, 11:38 PM   #26
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Thanks a bunch, it's bound to be written on the wheels.
Right so here's the weight of each wheel, I haven't had a good look at the wheels yet but I knew I had the weight of each somewhere

Rear wheel - 6kg with disk and cush rubbers but no sprocket or carrier.
Front wheel - 4.5kg without disks.

Dimensions, unsure, but the stock tyre sizes are 100/80/17 52H for the front and 130/70/62H. But many of these bikes get fitted with 110/70/17 and 140/70/17 tyres.
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Old November 7th, 2015, 03:42 AM   #27
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Have been moving house, sorry for lack of updates. Got straight into it as soon as I could



An interesting tidbit I thought I'd add. Looking at the exhaust valves through the exhaust port, you can see how well that cylinder was running. Like reading spark plugs. #1 was lean, #2 and #3 were good, #4 was rich.









Pulled the head off and all the valves were straight. Have not leak tested yet but suspect they are just like the other engine... leaking all over.

Haven't got a pic of the bores but they look OK. Will get them cleaned up, measured, and honed when I can.

So the noise was indeed a big end bearing. No. 3 has lots of slop

Link to original page on YouTube.

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Old November 9th, 2015, 02:18 AM   #28
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Well I just pulled off No. 2 and No 3 conrods. At first glance it is not as bad as I expected. Though I might not be trained enough to make that call. Here is No. 3 crank and conrod...







Pretty obvious scoring mark towards the centre there on the bearings that can be felt with the hand. But what caused it? Debris getting trapped during installation? Long periods without oil or filter changes?

The top half bearing also appears to have been squished out from the sides. The bottom one has a little bit, but it appears to have followed on from the top half.





Here is No. 2 crank and conrod/bearings





Here is the inside of No. 2 and 3 rods & bearings, respectively. I wiped them clean before taking photos. Smelled very burnt and a bit of carbon came off... Probably goes back to how the oil was about 500ml's of black watery crap when we got it...





And a closer look at the top half of No. 3 bearing... squished. Both halves had the locating tabs broken

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Old November 10th, 2015, 03:53 AM   #29
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Crankshaft is scored, so I'm going to pull it out and replace it and all the rods with one from a spare engine, and do all the bearings plus whatever else needs attention in the bottom end.

Hone the bores, new valve stem seals in the cylinder head, new pistons and rings and it'll be right as rain.
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Old November 14th, 2015, 04:40 PM   #30
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Old November 15th, 2015, 04:34 PM   #31
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Old November 18th, 2015, 12:34 AM   #32
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China delivers... literally. Ordered this stuff a week ago, I was expecting a few weeks minimum.

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Old November 19th, 2015, 06:09 PM   #33
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China delivers... literally. Ordered this stuff a week ago, I was expecting a few weeks minimum.

Chinese engine parts???
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Old November 22nd, 2015, 04:09 AM   #34
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Chinese engine parts???
Remember this is an obscure 25 year old Japanese import bike and new OEM stuff like pistons and bearings are rare as rocking horse ****
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Old November 22nd, 2015, 06:27 AM   #35
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Can you give me the website address for this Chinese supplier of "unobtainium"? (I've got an obscure 23 year old Japanese sport bike)
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Old November 23rd, 2015, 12:20 AM   #36
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Can you give me the website address for this Chinese supplier of "unobtainium"? (I've got an obscure 23 year old Japanese sport bike)
www.aliexpress.com

Just such the bike model code (eg, 3LN for an FZR250) and then "piston" "bearing" "rings" and so on.

I have used items from AHL and Earth Family sellers without a problem. You just have to make sure you order the right part for your year model bike.

Everything I've ordered from aliexpress has turned up (sooner or later) and has worked.
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Old November 26th, 2015, 09:14 PM   #37
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Got one of the spare engine apart on Wednesday and have its crankshaft waiting to be put in to the other engine. Also got the clutch kit and assembly grease in the mail today



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Old December 1st, 2015, 04:47 AM   #38
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Getting closer. Spare crank & rods in & cases together

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Old December 1st, 2015, 04:26 PM   #39
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Every picture of this motorcycle and any of its parts should include a placard marked "Actual Size!"
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Old December 12th, 2015, 06:45 PM   #40
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Test fitment of new fairings. Fitment could be better, the holes aren't perfect, but they go on alright.









I think the original coloured fuel tank (matches the fairings) is beyond saving. Rusty innards, silicon repair on the outside... I'll just have the blue one repainted.
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