Winterizing your 250R?

[Wolvy]

Hey all - Newbie here...please don't yell, I have feelings.

As for lifting your baby off tires, some have mentioned STANDS...I assume they mean BOTH front and back swing-arm racing-type stands, yeah? I'm thinking if you only did the back, it would just put more weight on the front tire (granted the thinner of the two and probably less apt to get flat-spots).

...I picked up one of these at Harbor Freight Tools last week - good price and decent quality for HFT...http://www.harborfreight.com/motorcy...and-65620.html

Got it to do chain maintenance but thinking about getting another to lift both tires...how would I do that? ...this has the universal-type arm that sits under/around back swingarm...guy said it could be adjusted to work with spools...I think I could figure out spools on the back, but what about front? How would that Hook up?

Any experience with one lifting method over another? (esp. for long term)

Thanks!

[Alex]

Matt - a few good "stands" discussions here in other threads:

Lifting The 250R Onto Service Stands

harbor freight stands

[rwheelz]

FWIW, I have been using Stabil (now marine stabil) in my bikes and cars for years for winter storage and never had an issue. Carbs are always clean, and I do not even drain the float bowls in the fall. Just add the stabil, fresh oil and filter and run it enough to get the stabil through the system and top the oil off.

This worked in the northeast with an unheated garage that literally had snow blowing through the walls, and it is still working now in my 50+ degree heated garage. I always take it easy on that first old tank of fuel in the spring, but don't drain it to run in a car or anything (I do like the lawnmower idea best, and may do that this spring).

[Slono]

I just changed my oil before putting my bike up on a stand in my garage, would I need to change it in the spring when I ride it? I'm also wondering if a battery tender is necessary if I start it every week for a good 20 minutes.

[Alex]

Originally Posted by Slono

I just changed my oil before putting my bike up on a stand in my garage, would I need to change it in the spring when I ride it?

Probably overkill.

Originally Posted by Slono

I'm also wondering if a battery tender is necessary if I start it every week for a good 20 minutes.

Don't do this. For one thing, when the bike is idling it's using more battery power than it's replacing. The rated power of the electrical charging system is at 5000 RPM. Just get a battery tender.

[klewi]

Hi All, I'm settled in for a long winter without riding. I have a question on oils and winter storage.

Months ago I winterized my bike much the way it's described throughout this thread. This included changing the oil and filter. In the spring I'll replace both but I'll switch to synthetic oil (I put 5000km on it the first year.)

My question is about next years storage. If you are running synthetic oil do you use synthetic for the winter storage or go back to regular oil? I know there is a small debate on the whole clean oil just for storage thing but it seems like pretty cheap insurance to me. However if you're running synthetic and use that over the winter that's a little more expensive.

What do you synthetic users do for winter with your oil?

[Boom King]

Originally Posted by klewi

What do you synthetic users do for winter with your oil?

Switching to a cheap brand dino oil for storage is no issue. You can even leave the old filter in there, unless it's really dirty, since you'll be changing both in the spring.

[Slono]

Originally Posted by Alex

Probably overkill.



Don't do this. For one thing, when the bike is idling it's using more battery power than it's replacing. The rated power of the electrical charging system is at 5000 RPM. Just get a battery tender.

Will I be able to leave the choke on and have that help the engine rev 5000 rpms?

[Alex]

Absolutely don't do that.

Having it run at high revs while under no load while it isn't moving would be even worse.

[Slono]

Originally Posted by Alex

Absolutely don't do that.

Having it run at high revs while under no load while it isn't moving would be even worse.

So its the fact that there's no load on the engine? Because if I put it in 3rd gear or something on my bike stand the wheels would turn... granted the load would be close to nothing, but it would still let everything move and keep lubricated as well as charge the battery right?

[Alex]

No. Don't do this. Really.

[Slono]

Originally Posted by Alex

No. Don't do this. Really.

Okay. I'm not playing devil's advocate I'm just trying to understand why its such a no-no.

[Alex]

Fair question. For one thing, the bike would overheat in a few minutes, the cooling system is barely capable to keep it at normal temp while at idle speed.

[azian4lifz]

All i know is you have to remove the battery. but I'm sure their is a lot more? .

not sure if there is already a forum post for this topic but if there is can someone link me?

Thanks

[csmith12]

I am sure there is a thread but it's rather simple.

Fill up gas tank
Add stabil to gas
Turn off petcock
Drain carb float bowls
Change oil
Put the battery on a battery tender (does not have to be removed from the bike)

If you have stands, put it on the stands to get the wheels off the floor. Otherwise, your center stand will be just fine.

[csmith12]

Oh, clean and lube your chain as well to prevent rust.

[allanoue]

Originally Posted by Alex

/threads merged

http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?p=385585

Or just keep riding. That is what I do

[Brocked]

Is keeping it in a storage unit and running it around a mile or two every other week ok? Don't wanna have to spend money winterizing if possible.

[csmith12]

Originally Posted by Brocked

Is keeping it in a storage unit and running it around a mile or two every other week ok? Don't wanna have to spend money winterizing if possible.

Man... it's less than $10 + the cost of gas to fill your tank. You should already have most of the stuff anyway. And not having to go ride the bike that week of really crappy weather is worth the $10 alone.

[allanoue]

Do not make riding a chore.

[allanoue]

Originally Posted by Brocked

Is keeping it in a storage unit and running it around a mile or two every other week ok? Don't wanna have to spend money winterizing if possible.

no

[CC Cowboy]

Buy warmer clothing.

[Alex]

/merged

[The_big_dill]

Love the people who tell you to ride the bike in the winter, i stretched it out to December last year, up here in Canada.

The last ride was when i saw snow coming down. Makes falling asleep loads easier when you just went through 40km in negative degree temperature in a pair of jeans :P

In any case, like the first reply said, with a bit more details as to why:

- Change to fresh oil (which will be good to go for next season), you don't want to leave it to dry out inside of there without oil.

- Put battery on trickle charger, don't have to be continuous, 2 times each winter for half a day is fine. I would take it off the bike all together, This will prevent parasitic discharge from draining your battery to failure.

- Lift the bike off the ground, save your tires from getting "flat spots" or you will have a bumpy ride next season.

- Fill the tank, this will prevent your gas tank from rusting.

- Empty carb bowls, will prevent the jets from getting clogged.

- Turn petcock off (not on prime), this won't allow gas to flow to the carb unless you create a vacuum (ie turn the bike on).

Hope this helps, but i think you have plenty of time before you have to store your bike away

[allanoue]

Originally Posted by The_big_dill

Love the people who tell you to ride the bike in the winter, i stretched it out to December last year, up here in Canada.

The last ride was when i saw snow coming down. Makes falling asleep loads easier when you just went through 40km in negative degree temperature in a pair of jeans :P

In any case, like the first reply said, with a bit more details as to why:

- Change to fresh oil (which will be good to go for next season), you don't want to leave it to dry out inside of there without oil.

- Put battery on trickle charger, don't have to be continuous, 2 times each winter for half a day is fine. I would take it off the bike all together, This will prevent parasitic discharge from draining your battery to failure.

- Lift the bike off the ground, save your tires from getting "flat spots" or you will have a bumpy ride next season.

- Fill the tank, this will prevent your gas tank from rusting.

- Empty carb bowls, will prevent the jets from getting clogged.

- Turn petcock off (not on prime), this won't allow gas to flow to the carb unless you create a vacuum (ie turn the bike on).

Hope this helps, but i think you have plenty of time before you have to store your bike away

If you ride in Canada in November you would ride year round in Virginia

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by Brocked

Is keeping it in a storage unit and running it around a mile or two every other week ok? Don't wanna have to spend money winterizing if possible.

Not a great idea.

Starting and not riding for long enough (around 30 min at operating temp) to burn-off normal condensation just contaminates the oil. Changing the oil just before storing will give you all the protection you need to keep the engine in good condition while sitting.

Just do as csmith12 suggested in post #175 and it will start right up next season when you hit the button.

[bandit_fosky]

does anyone ride there bike through the winter?

[allanoue]

I do, but I have no idea if I would or not if I lived in the UK. I avoid riding in the rain

[dfox]

i ride in the winter as road conditions allow.

my bike never sees salt. that means I've gotta wait a while after a snow, they love salt up here in new england.... and they wonder why fish don't live in the streams...

currently riding in the 30 degree mornings (5am ride) with a 3 season mesh jacket and fleece on under that, insulated goretex gloves, heated grips, over pants, and a neck gaiter.

only part of me that still gets cold are my fingers, even with the grips... i'm considering finger guards for this winter.

[SwagenGTI]

So I will probably be winterizing here in a few weeks; getting cold and I don't feel like buying pants just to ride for another few weeks before it gets TOO cold.

Anyways, when you drain the oil, and replace it with new oil. Am I supposed to start up the bike and let the new oil flow through for a little bit or do I just drain it, fill it, and store it? I am assuming I need to run it for a little bit but I want to make sure

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by SwagenGTI

So I will probably be winterizing here in a few weeks; getting cold and I don't feel like buying pants just to ride for another few weeks before it gets TOO cold.

Anyways, when you drain the oil, and replace it with new oil. Am I supposed to start up the bike and let the new oil flow through for a little bit or do I just drain it, fill it, and store it? I am assuming I need to run it for a little bit but I want to make sure

Yes, you want the fresh oil to circulate and coat the internals. Running for under a minute is sufficient.

In addition - add fuel stabilizer and fill the tank to the top with fresh 87 (without Ethanol if possible). On a bike with carbs, drain the float bowls. That's where you will get the problems with old gas.

If you can't drain the bowls, you need to run the engine enough to get treated fuel into the bowls. That's a fair amount of running, because you need to completely exchange the fuel that's in there now with treated fuel. If you were doing it that way, you're best to treat the fuel while you are still riding then top the tank when storing. Same is true for a F.I. engine, but there's no amount of fuel sitting like there is with carbs.

[adouglas]

Yep. For a few years now I've been in the habit of winterizing my bike around Halloween. Yes, you do miss some prime riding days, BUT you never wind up in mid-November when it's 40 degrees and drizzly, having to work on the bike.

Yesterday I took the first step... add fuel stabilizer to the tank to give it plenty of opportunity to run through the system. I don't know how much riding I'll get in between now and the end of the month, so now's the time to do it. I'll treat every tank between now and the end-of-season fillup.

Last day will be:

-Ride to warm the oil, ending with a stop to fill the tank.
-Go home, change oil.
-Start for the standard leak check.
- Put the bike on stands, cover the exhaust pipe, let some air out of the tires and plug in Battery Tender.
- Cover bike.

Done. Next spring it's fill the tires, drop the bike, unplug and fire it up. Simple....

[akima]

Originally Posted by jkv45

fill the tank to the top with fresh 87 (without Ethanol if possible)

That's the "premium" high octane stuff right? What benefit is there to topping up with that?

[allanoue]

Originally Posted by akima

That's the "premium" high octane stuff right? What benefit is there to topping up with that?

That is regular low octane in the states.

[jkv45]

Originally Posted by akima

That's the "premium" high octane stuff right? What benefit is there to topping up with that?

As allanoue noted, in the U.S. 87 is the "regular" grade. Most gas in the U.S has 10% Ethanol added - which I recommend staying away from if possible.

Running the lowest grade fuel that doesn't detonate will always give you the best performance and mileage - and gas without Ethanol increases both.

[akima]

Originally Posted by jkv45

As allanoue noted, in the U.S. 87 is the "regular" grade. Most gas in the U.S has 10% Ethanol added - which I recommend staying away from if possible.

Running the lowest grade fuel that doesn't detonate will always give you the best performance and mileage - and gas without Ethanol increases both.

Oh right. Over here there are two types of petrol available at most petrol stations. I put the standard type (which I think is labelled 85) in my ninjette. The premium stuff is labelled 87 I think. Both are crazy expensive!

[mikromo]

I've been riding a looooong time and have simply changed oil and filter at the end of the season, filled up the tank with fresh gas and Stabil, made sure the tire pressures are up, and parked it. Most winters here I can still get out now and then, and if I use up the "stabil gas" I fill up at the end of my ride and retreat. As for moisture in the oil during long periods of sitting, ride the dang thing 100 miles or so and it's ALL GONE, and you still have reasonably fresh oil. Heat burns the impurities out of motor oil.....Just RIDE it! Oh, I DO go ride it for a mile or 2 after adding stabil to make sure it's completely through the system.

[evidens83]

Brand new rider here. First bike too. Winters here are in the low 40s. Can I get away with just starting the bike up and letting it run once a week? I will also move it around my parking space as to prevent the tires from getting flat spots.

[conrya5]

Starting the bike and letting it idle (sit there) is going to do more harm than good.

Last Ride before Winter Storage:
1. Add fuel stabilizer
2. Go for a ride 30+ minutes
3. Stop and fuel up, return home
4. Change oil and filter while bike is warm.
5. Clean and lube chain
6. Remove battery and connect to battery tender every other week

Connect battery in spring and go.

[evidens83]

Originally Posted by conrya5

Starting the bike and letting it idle (sit there) is going to do more harm than good.

Last Ride before Winter Storage:
1. Add fuel stabilizer
2. Go for a ride 30+ minutes
3. Stop and fuel up, return home
4. Change oil and filter while bike is warm.
5. Clean and lube chain
6. Remove battery and connect to battery tender every other week

Connect battery in spring and go.

Roger that. I guess the easy lazy route is out then. Thanks