October 11th, 2013, 08:53 AM | #121 | |
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Quote:
I broke a piece of the hub off a few days ago after I wedged something in between it and the outer basket to keep it from spinning as I attempted to torque with a breaker bar. Not a good idea.
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October 11th, 2013, 10:10 AM | #122 |
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Rebuilt engine is on. Starts up but won't go into gear. Can feel it kick into first but doesn't move when I release clutch...
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October 11th, 2013, 10:28 AM | #123 | |
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When I had reinstalled my shift drum washer, it fell out of alignment and it wouldn't shift into second.
Link to original page on YouTube.
Link to original page on YouTube.
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October 11th, 2013, 11:30 AM | #124 |
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I'm positive on the shift forks. I was looking at the shift arms on the shift drum and I wasn't exactly sure if they were on right. From what I remember they pretty much just latch on in one position without any adjustment though......
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October 11th, 2013, 04:43 PM | #125 |
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Played with the clutch tool tonight. Was able to get it fit but the tips of the tool are like next to each other on the hub. I dont think you can actually fit it on opposite sides as depicted.
Have to find a store that carries the engine mounting bolt's nut. M10 x1.25 I believe. Both hardware stores I went to were out of them.
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October 11th, 2013, 05:17 PM | #126 | |
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They don't have them at Royal Palm, but the other ones have them.
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October 11th, 2013, 05:40 PM | #127 |
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October 11th, 2013, 06:26 PM | #128 |
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No idea. Could be a million reasons. Did you test the tranny when you had it apart to make sure it was back together right? I think Racerx put out a video showing how to test it. They all have to be in there just right. I had a problem with mine, but figured it out before final assembly.
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October 11th, 2013, 08:32 PM | #129 | |
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October 11th, 2013, 08:42 PM | #130 |
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October 12th, 2013, 07:52 AM | #131 |
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This is how I finally resorted to putting this tool on. It definitely will not open wide enough to fit on opposite sides. I'm still not sure on how the tool was intended to be used because I can't get the tool on how you are describing it or how it is depicted.
2013-10-12 10.46.13.jpg
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October 12th, 2013, 07:54 AM | #132 | |
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I played with the clutch a little yesterday so I doubt that is it but I'll re check as it does seem symptomatic of a tight clutch cable.
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October 12th, 2013, 08:32 AM | #133 | |
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October 12th, 2013, 09:20 AM | #134 |
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that tool should be able to fit on opposite sides. I have one just like it and mine did...?
As for the not going into second, did you ever remove your transmission fully? Including the positive neutral bolt on top of the motor? I recommend taking the clutch hub off, reinspecting everything per the manual for fit and then using an allen key to turn your transmission through the gears. Up and down about four or five times. once completed, ENSURE that the plate that bolts to the shift drum is in proper alignment and that your shift forks (external) are in properly. Then try it with the gear shift lever before putting on the clutch hub. Does it work? I say all this because I had an issue with mine getting stuck and I believe it to have been caused by the positive neutral finder. The above procedure is how it fixed itself. |
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October 12th, 2013, 10:55 AM | #135 | |
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Yes I did take the transmission out fully. I didn't take it through the gears with an allen key though. Part no. 92026 http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/..._-EX250/CLUTCH It really seems it should go on with the larger/untapered side butted up against the case but even that diagram has it the opposite/counterintuitive way.
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October 12th, 2013, 10:56 AM | #136 |
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Yeah my tool is just too small I think. There's no way it will go on opposite sides even if I back the adjuster all the way out. I think how I have it should work though.
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October 12th, 2013, 11:47 AM | #137 | |
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October 12th, 2013, 12:27 PM | #138 |
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Bevel in first. Its in the manual.
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October 12th, 2013, 12:29 PM | #139 |
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There is no way that will be strong enough. The torque required for that nut is a lot for tension to hold.
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October 13th, 2013, 02:29 PM | #140 | |
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Now, I took of the clutch basket, everything was installed right.' I spun the rear wheel as I took the tranny through all the gears several times. There was no problem doing this, and I didn't have to mess with anything. I put the basket back on, torque the hub to 100#, put the discs back on, button everything back up. Start the bike, goes into gears as I walk the bike down the street shifting quickly. If I stop the bike in gear it doesn't stall, not even stumble. I loosened the clutch cable all the way, same thing! WTF am I doing wrong here lol. I'm positive I put the shift forks back in their spots correctly. I tried this as well: I put the bike on the rear stand and quickly shifted it into first, the rear wheel spun and even seemed to be putting out a bit of power for idle...... Do I have to put the shifter arms on the drum in a certain gear or something??????? I have no clue what is going on..... Puzzled I'm sure someone on here knows something I don't, they just haven't commented yet...... @Racer x @n4mwd @choneofakind @Motofool Who am I missing
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October 13th, 2013, 03:02 PM | #141 |
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Its hard to say without seeing it. Did the top half of the case fit properly over the gears without having to be torqued? Does the clutch feel right?
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October 13th, 2013, 03:06 PM | #142 | |
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The case went on fine I made sure all the bearings and dowels lined up. That's why I did it about 10 times. I even pulled it the last time to double check the shift forks were on correctly......
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October 13th, 2013, 04:37 PM | #143 | |
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October 13th, 2013, 04:39 PM | #144 |
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Is it remotely possible the fiber plates are backwards and that's the issue????
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October 13th, 2013, 04:39 PM | #145 | |
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Quote:
Just trying to figure out why my clutch doesn't seem to be engaging....
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October 13th, 2013, 05:01 PM | #146 |
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Are you sure you put back the correct number of plates? Should have fiber to start and fiber to end. Also, I assume you latched the clutch actuator properly when you reinstalled the clutch cover. Clutch springs put on correctly?
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October 13th, 2013, 05:21 PM | #147 | |
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I put the actuator on right yeah. I put the springs over the final piece that covers the clutch plates followed by the bolts....
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October 13th, 2013, 05:22 PM | #148 | |
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http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...6&postcount=31 Do you feel the resistance and movement of the springs in the clutch lever?
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October 13th, 2013, 05:25 PM | #149 | |
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And everything is installed correct!
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October 13th, 2013, 05:35 PM | #150 |
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Then 13187 is pressing all the plates together and against 13087.
Then 13095 is dragged and becomes a solid part with the crankshaft and its rear gear makes the transmission rotate. Can you see actually happening through the oil refill hole?
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October 13th, 2013, 05:40 PM | #151 |
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Spoke w/ a bike mechanic and we narrowed it down to this ^^^^^ D'oh!!
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October 13th, 2013, 05:42 PM | #152 |
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I could see this when the cover was off. However, the bike was not actually running and putting out power yet!
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October 13th, 2013, 05:43 PM | #153 |
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October 13th, 2013, 05:46 PM | #154 |
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Haha. I'm pretty sure I saw them facing the wrong way earlier today. Didn't hit me they had to be facing a certain direction. Was in too much of a rush...
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October 13th, 2013, 05:49 PM | #155 |
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Just for the record: I disagree with that being the cause of a lack of power transmission.
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October 13th, 2013, 05:59 PM | #156 | |
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Just for reference, page 5-7 in the kawi manual is what led me to this conclusion.
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October 13th, 2013, 08:49 PM | #157 |
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I don't think the plates direction makes much of a difference. There is an optimal way to install them, but it should still work if they are installed backwards.
If the problem is the clutch not grabbing, something is preventing it from compressing. You aligned the notches on the outer pressure plate right?
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October 14th, 2013, 04:26 AM | #158 | |
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October 14th, 2013, 04:47 AM | #159 |
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Or someting further in like aligning and fully engaging the crank gear?
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October 14th, 2013, 06:01 AM | #160 |
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Clutch Alignment marks
Alignment marks
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