Loud clacking sound coming out of my engine when I'm idle.

[alex.s]

what are the upper cam bearing caps made of? they are silver colored... the cam itsself is hardened steal. i wonder if the silver colored metal you found was from that cam bearing

[Kevin2109]

Woah, thats completely different from my bike lol

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by Kevin2109

Woah, thats completely different from my bike lol

the new-gen is much more similar to your zx engine as far as all that goes.

[Kevin2109]

Originally Posted by alex.s

the new-gen is much more similar to your zx engine as far as all that goes.

Ok, thats what I was thinking lol Dumb old motors

[alex.s]

now that i think about it... the cams, the cage, the chain guides and tensioner setup ... the newgen 250 motor looks like half of the zx motor.... with smaller pistons

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by alex.s

what are the upper cam bearing caps made of?

Cast aluminum. You're right, its a possible source for the aluminum flakes in the oil screen.

It would be a good idea to verify that the head is getting oil. Not exactly sure how to do that. It comes from the rubber hose on the front. Beyond that, I have no clue.

[alex.s]

just use your trusty xray goggles.

[Motofool]

Good video, D; thanks.

I would like to have seen you trying to push the plunge up after release, in order to verify and prove the one-way mechanism.

The damage to the aluminum bearing-cam cover could have been also caused by an improper sequence of torque.

If the gap would become too small because of that, lubrication would fail.

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Good video, D; thanks.

I would like to have seen you trying to push the plunge up after release, in order to verify and prove the one-way mechanism.

I did try to push it up, but apparently not in the video. Its stuck down under spring pressure.

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by Motofool

Good video, D; thanks.

I would like to have seen you trying to push the plunge up after release, in order to verify and prove the one-way mechanism.

The damage to the aluminum bearing-cam cover could have been also caused by an improper sequence of torque.

If the gap would become too small because of that, lubrication would fail.

i was actually thinking about this last night. a few months ago i was watching someone put their valves together... they tried to torque it to like 40 lbs i was like omg 15lbs! i wonder how often it happens?

[n4mwd]

This is a longshot, but are the registration pins (two per cap) hollow or solid?

[Monkeytofu]

Took these two short videos of my bike after I adjusted the valves and relubed the CCT with just some spare oil. Going to try and relube it with moly lube tomorrow. Don't know if any of the noises are coming through my phone's camera.


Sound while idling:

Link to original page on YouTube.

Sound while running:

Link to original page on YouTube.

[n4mwd]

I didn't hear anything that unusual with the first one, the second sounded a bit whiny. But its hard to tell with that recording.

Here is a video I did a while back. The idle sounds the same, but no whine.

Link to original page on YouTube.

[Monkeytofu]

Doy.

Went to go pick up a friend dropping off her 250 at a mechanic and I went ahead and asked him. I had a feeling the new noise was something that was my fault. As soon as I revved the engine in front of him he went "Yup, it's a loose valve." Going to go ahead and readjust that this week.

should I go ahead and loctite those bolts? They didn't seem to have any (although I saw evidence of loctite in there) when I adjusted it earlier.

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by Monkeytofu

Doy.

Went to go pick up a friend dropping off her 250 at a mechanic and I went ahead and asked him. I had a feeling the new noise was something that was my fault. As soon as I revved the engine in front of him he went "Yup, it's a loose valve." Going to go ahead and readjust that this week.

should I go ahead and loctite those bolts? They didn't seem to have any (although I saw evidence of loctite in there) when I adjusted it earlier.

I've done the valves on three different Ninjas now and I have yet to see any loctite on the nuts. Just torque them to the proper spec - no more. You need about 12 ft-lbs of torque. Since you can't really get a torque wrench in there, I suggest practicing with a torque wrench in a vice to get the feel of 12 lbs at the proper moment arm before you start. Too much torque will destroy the engine - LITERALLY!

[choneofakind]

Always use a torque wrench on anything inside the engine!! Don't just feel it!! Get a small torque wrench from freaking harbor freight of needed that can fit in there. That's just asking to ruin things by feeling torque values! sheering/stripping things inside the engine sucks balls trust me!

A full size torque wrench works fine with a deep-well socket. A smaller torque wrench is just easier to get in there.
Posted via Mobile Device

[davenay67]

Originally Posted by choneofakind

Always use a torque wrench on anything inside the engine!! Don't just feel it!! Get a small torque wrench from freaking harbor freight of needed that can fit in there. That's just asking to ruin things by feeling torque values! sheering/stripping things inside the engine sucks balls trust me!

A full size torque wrench works fine with a deep-well socket. A smaller torque wrench is just easier to get in there.
Posted via Mobile Device

+1

I'm able to use my regular size torque wrench in combination with deep well sockets to torque the valve adjusters. Not even a tight fit, very easy.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by Monkeytofu

.......should I go ahead and loctite those bolts?

Nope; Loctite would fool the torque wrench or your hands.
Besides, it wouldn't stand the constant shower of hot oil.
Old pure friction between steel surfaces (nut and bolt) is all is needed; hence, the importance of proper torque.

[n4mwd]

I can't argue saying to always use a torque wrench, but there is a practicality side of the issue in this case. If you can get one in there, then use it. The official Kawasaki valve tool is not a torque wrench, so if you use that, then you must do it by feel.

Also, I've seen a lot of people say to use a deep well socket. Well, that simply doesn't work on the exhaust side. You can't move the crank to TDC with a deep socket in the way. Just use a standard 1/4" drive 9mm socket with a short extension. You still have to move it off TDC to get it in, but now you can move it back to TDC once you have it in there. And you can just pull out the extension leaving the socket in place to stick a small screwdriver through the hole.

Some people say that "close" to TDC is good enough, but when I do my valves, its exactly on TDC. That way when I'm done, my valves wont be "close" to being adjusted properly, they'll be exact.

But regarding torque, the bottom line is that if you do overtorque it, you WILL destroy the engine.!!!

[davenay67]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

The official Kawasaki valve tool is not a torque wrench, so if you use that, then you must do it by feel.

Yeah, I've always wondered about that one too.

[Monkeytofu]

Opened up my bike to readjust the valves again, and I see this. I don't remember it being worn like this. Ideas? Did I adjust it wrong? The sound I'm getting sounds like it's coming from the right, but I could be wrong.

[greg737]

Sorry for the blurry pic, phone can't focus that well.

I'm sure it was precisely focused, just not on the subject.

[Monkeytofu]

Originally Posted by greg737

I'm sure it was precisely focused, just not on the subject.

:P

Valve adjustment fixed the new sound but... my petcock now needs to be rebuilt. Reached the end of its life after I was riding my bike around for a bit.

[alex.s]

looks like typical casting defects. youll find them through out the inside of the engine in non-critical places like that.

[n4mwd]

I just did my valves today and discovered that my cam chain tensioner was defective. I didn't know that was possible, but there it was. The cam chain was super loose its a wonder it didn't snap or something. Fortunately I had a spare and it seemed to fix it.

So its possible that if yours was bad too, it could have been responsible for some of your noise.

[Monkeytofu]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

I just did my valves today and discovered that my cam chain tensioner was defective. I didn't know that was possible, but there it was. The cam chain was super loose its a wonder it didn't snap or something. Fortunately I had a spare and it seemed to fix it.

So its possible that if yours was bad too, it could have been responsible for some of your noise.

Yeah, I lubed my up with Moly Grease like @Motofool recommended and I didn't feel much change between before and after I reapplied it to my bike. I feel better about it now though because I did notice some slight cosmetic wear, so hopefully that stops any future wear.

Originally Posted by alex.s

looks like typical casting defects. youll find them through out the inside of the engine in non-critical places like that.

Seems like it. I've looked at a bunch of other pictures of the internals and it looks fine.


I'm currently looking for a rebuild kit for my petcock, but there seems to be two types of rubber seals created for various years and I don't know which one works for my model without taking it apart again. Anyone know an easier way to find out?

This thread should be retitled "The thread where Monkeytofu breaks everything".


Edit: First type: http://www.ebay.com/itm/03-04-Kawasa...7536c6&vxp=mtr

second type: http://www.ebay.com/itm/01-02-Kawasa...009718&vxp=mtr

[n4mwd]

Grease would not help mine, it was broken. For the petcock just buy a new diaphragm from the dealer.
it cost around 20 dollars. Unless you're petcock is physically damaged you don't need to replace it.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Monkeytofu]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

Grease would not help mine, it was broken. For the petcock just buy a new diaphragm from the dealer.
it cost around 20 dollars. Unless you're petcock is physically damaged you don't need to replace it.
Posted via Mobile Device

I bought a rebuild kit off of ebay for about 42 dollars. The petcock drips even in the off position and it's showing a lot of signs of needing to be "rebuilt".

Stealerships around here were asking about 33 dollars for just the thin rubber seals and wanted me to wait for it to be shipped in :/

[n4mwd]

Originally Posted by Monkeytofu

I bought a rebuild kit off of ebay for about 42 dollars. The petcock drips even in the off position and it's showing a lot of signs of needing to be "rebuilt".

Stealerships around here were asking about 33 dollars for just the thin rubber seals and wanted me to wait for it to be shipped in :/

At RonAyers.com the entire petcock is only $50. 51023-1139

But the ebay rebuild kits look good too. The same petcock was used from 1988-2007, but the 86-87 petcocks were different.

EDIT: May have misspoken. The petcocks 1988-2000 use 51024-1149 and the ones 2001-2007 use 51023-1393. The drawings are identical, but the later year version is $60.

[Monkeytofu]

Originally Posted by n4mwd

At RonAyers.com the entire petcock is only $50. 51023-1139

But the ebay rebuild kits look good too. The same petcock was used from 1988-2007, but the 86-87 petcocks were different.

Can you give a me a link? It's listed as 63 dollars for the models I've looked at.

[n4mwd]

See if this link works...

BTW, the washer with holes in it is only $3. Don't forget they charge $10 shipping.

The kit will probably fix it. If your petcock leaked from anywhere with the tubes disconnected and petcock ON or RESERVE, then the diaphragm is bad. If turning the petcock OFF didn't stop the leak, then the washer is bad too.