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Old December 2nd, 2019, 09:53 AM   #41
65Mulberry
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Name: Jon
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Motorcycle(s): Suzuki bandit 1200 Ninja 250

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Ran into a starter gear issue that i got resolved last PM... bike is turning over great now...
also mounted the 2.25" mini gauge on handlebars...going to splice in an old factory gauge cluster harness plug after I get the schematics rung out-- for all the dash lights and indicators etc....
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Last futzed with by 65Mulberry; December 2nd, 2019 at 10:54 AM.
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Old December 2nd, 2019, 11:19 AM   #42
65Mulberry
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original Li Ion batt Danny XYZ pointed me toward is discontinued but this one is avil w/same specs:
4 cell, 6amp hr, 120CCA

Actually fits my avail space even better anyways... anybody see an issue with using it?

1.25" thick and less than 5'x4' HxW... claims 14oz
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Old December 2nd, 2019, 03:38 PM   #43
DannoXYZ
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Note that Antigravity "small case" batteries only have BMS circuitry for balance-charging. They do NOT have overcharge and over-discharge protection! Overcharging can be handled by factory VRM/RR. Measure output and verify RR doesn't output more than 15.5v.

Over-discharge protection must be manually done. DO NOT leave bike with lights on and engine not running. Such as using kill-switch instead of ignition-switch. ALWAYS use ignition-switch to turn OFF to prevent ever leaving lights on. This can deeply discharge small battery within minutes and destroy it (even lead-acid batteries).

A LOT of small lithium batteries in market are configured like this, so care must be taken with their charging and discharging to prevent damage.

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; December 3rd, 2019 at 11:58 AM.
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Old December 2nd, 2019, 04:16 PM   #44
65Mulberry
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I assume you’re talking about =\< 15v at the RR...While the bike is running/charging...?
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Old December 2nd, 2019, 04:44 PM   #45
DannoXYZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65Mulberry View Post
I assume you’re talking about =\< 15v at the RR...While the bike is running/charging...?
yes, rev bike up to 4-6k-rpms and note output voltage at battery terminals. This shows what's being pumped into battery to re-charge. Does it rise from idle to a stable voltage? or does it continue to rise with RPMs?

Last futzed with by DannoXYZ; December 3rd, 2019 at 11:57 AM.
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Old December 3rd, 2019, 10:40 AM   #46
65Mulberry
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gotcha... testing out coils, and electrical this week to hopefully start it by weekend.
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Old December 7th, 2019, 07:43 AM   #47
65Mulberry
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This morning’s project— merging/soldering the OEM wiring harness plugs for the speedometer and instrument panel to this small round one— so that I can plug it in nicely and cleanly rather than cob it together..
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Old December 7th, 2019, 07:52 AM   #48
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I have always looked up to people that can rewire instruments and make them look stoke.
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Old December 7th, 2019, 07:25 PM   #49
65Mulberry
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Got new mini gauge sorted and soldered, spliced and heat shrink wrapped into OEM wiring harness so can use the factory plugs to keep things clean . I will have to decide how to handle temp gauge and low oil pressure light.. going see if I can find/fab a temp gauge housing for OEM gauge and prob just use a red LED light for an indicator for the oil since it’s on/off based on sensor signal.
I’ll clean out any/all of extra unused wires after testing and determining all is functional

Hope to plug it in see what happens next couple days... ����
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Old December 8th, 2019, 06:16 PM   #50
65Mulberry
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Looks like everything is good to go on the gauge… The only thing I can’t check is the highbeam but I don’t have the headlight hooked in yet either... so there’s that
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Old December 11th, 2019, 12:37 PM   #51
65Mulberry
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Having a no-spark issue with good coils and good plugs. But I've traced it to a wiring foible in the harness from not using all of the original gauges... I've got an open ground from something that used to go through either the tachometer or the neutral light indicator circuit causing the neutral lock-out (clutch switch) to not work right. Going to ring it out next couple days, keep y'all posted....
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