Really need help with carb sync and pilot screws!

[Darkening]

Hello all members of the community again! First, I want to thank you all for the warm welcome and the help given. I'm working on my '11 Ninja after some years from being stored. Did a lot of work but the carbs stumped me. I'll try to explain briefly.

TL;DR: Doesn't idle right, keeps hunting. Cilinder 1 is hotter than 2 @idle. Tried to sync carbs, doesn't run right with vacuum hoses disconnected, engaged choke and did it anyway. Runs worse now, maybe botched the sync job.


Initial data:

- I disassembled, fully cleaned my carbs and set them up. I set the pilot screws as the manual told me, #1: 2 1/2 turns and #2: 1 3/4 turns.

- I have a K&N pad air filter, nothing fancy, just the one replacing the OEM. Filter is clean, the airbox and everything else is stock. Thought this might be of help.

- Checked gap and cleaned spark plugs.

- The bike runs fine when not @idle or 5-6K RPM. (More on this later)

Things I noticed:

- The idle is not smooth, seems low and hunting. Compensated somewhat with the idle screw and set @1500 RPM with the engine hot but the hunting is still there. I guess I need to adjust the pilot screws, but I don't know what cilinder to adjust first. That takes me to...

- Cilinder 2 is colder than 1. Very noticeable when cold or idling, not so much when moving. Still I don't know if 1 is too lean or 2 is too rich. Didn't want to mess with pilot screws yet because of that.

- There is a marked lack of power between 5-6K RPM. If I open the throttle from idle, it hangs @5-6 K for a while before climbing again. Maybe carbs out of sync?

Things I tried:

The synching

I didn't know where to start, so I tried the easy thing first, synching the carbs. When I unplug the vacuum hoses, the engine doesn't run right, doesn't idle, tends to die fast. Turning the choke on stabilizes it but I don't know if I can sync with choke on and the engine idling @ 3000 RPM. Being stubborn I did it anyway, I used the hose with motor oil in the middle method. Carb 2 was pulling more than 1 so I synched it till the oil stopped flowing to either cilinder. I even noticed the engine gaining RPMs and running smoother overall but still dying without choke. Left it there.

Bike now runs like crap with the vacuum hoses reconnected. With choke 100% engaged, the engine barely runs @ 1500 RPM. Before sync choke was running right. Maybe some oil entered the carbs? Could that that be the problem? Should I run it for some time to see if it gets better? Or I badly screwed the sync?


So, I'm now disheartened and stuck, thinking about pulling out the carbs (again, damn) and syncing with a gauge. I still have the pilot screws to deal with and I'm not sure I am doing anything right. I'm a novice working with twin carbs, but I will do my best to make this work. I can give any additional info if needed.

Sorry for the wall of text and thanks for reading!

[Motofool]

Don't worry much about sinchronization of both carbs: any lack of it does not cause all the problems that you are having.

First, check all the electrical connections for the cooler cylinder, it is missing some sparks.

Then, clean the idle circuit of the carbs, if there is no improvement.

[Darkening]

Hey, thanks for the help! I will check the plugs and coils again. Do you think that this may be the problem?

Idle circuits were cleaned two days ago. Used compressed air, fine copper wire for the screw holes and double checked everything as I hate taking the carbs out. If I end up removing them again for sync, I'll check the circuits again just in case.

[Motofool]

Originally Posted by Darkening

Hey, thanks for the help! I will check the plugs and coils again. Do you think that this may be the problem?

Idle circuits were cleaned two days ago..........

You are welcome

If crabs were properly cleaned and diaphragms and hoses and rubber parts are in good condition, it very well be an electrical problem.

Compare the temperature of the ignition coils as well.