Turned on key ignition switch and nothing happened!!

[DannoXYZ]

Originally Posted by falonso0

I will show photos soon but I'm pretty sure I don't have a problem with turns. I have installed them for years and never had problems, they are well polarized with the correct resistor and dicipator. Each front led turns have a similar to this:
https://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.ne...jpg&w=585&zc=2

Uh... you DO have problem with turn-signals, they don't work properly. You have to disconnect front ones in order for rear to work. And neither works when you have dash plugged in. I think that means you DO have problem with turn-signals circuits.

Ok, show us picture of how you have ballast-resistors connected. Much, much easier to not install those and just replace flasher-relay with LED-compatible unit.

Also don't tell me you use crimp-connectors! They are unreliable and intermittent connections can be cause you more frustration as circuits will work some times and not at other times.

Link to original page on YouTube.

This is ONLY way to do reliable wiring connections. That lasts at least 50-years. It's done this way in pro-motorsports, military and aerospace applications for performance, reliability and durability. ALL other methods are not as good and will cause you problems much sooner. That is why your turn-signals sometimes work and sometimes don't work with dash plugged in. Most likely dash-connection is red-herring, distraction, not really related to turn-signals. It's the movement of connecting and disconnecting dash that re-connects crimp of turn-signal wiring. It may be connected now with wiggling, but it will fail again in future.

Fix it and make correct wiring-connections shown in video. There's never enough time to do it right 1st time, but there's always time to do it AGAIN! Often on side of road in total darkness and rain!

[DannoXYZ]

Background on electronics:

DIODES flow current in one direction only. They are used to form AND/OR logic decisions. Such as kickstand-up OR clutch-squeezed AND neutral-yes. Etc... Look at diodes A and B in diagram.

Now, what you've done with LED turn-signals (which works just like normal diodes) is also form complicated AND/OR circuits and only certain combinations will work. There is parallel and in-line configurations of these LED bulbs and ballast-resistors that must be used so that both front & rear work together. It's obvious they are not connected properly if you have to disconnect front & rear turn-signals so that only one works properly. And it changes with wiggling wires from disconnecting/reconnecting dash. So there's bad flaky inconsistent wiring-connections as well.

There's simply too many errors in these circuits. Nothing can be fixed until wiring is restored to 100% stock OEM condition and ALL lights are working. Then we can do upgrades.

[DannoXYZ]

Originally Posted by falonso0

Ok if there is no other option there is no problem, I try not to do it because I always have problems with the fuel valve, I don't know how to close it. But this is not the only problem, I don´t have the tool to remove the ignition switch.

You have fuel-valve problems too? What position do you have valve set to? It should point to ON. Which means petrol only flows when engine is spinning. Otherwise it is closed and stops petrol flow. If it doesn't function like this, you need to fix fuel-valve as well.

Originally Posted by falonso0

Ok I will try, but I don't know if I'm going to buy a new one, first I'll try to fix it.

Well, to fix it, you have to remove tank anyway to remove ignition-switch. Might as well measure all wires outlined above so you can determine which contacts inside switch is problem. Add these additional tests to those above:

5. measure resistance between these wires, disconnect battery, unplug ignition-switch from harness, KEY ON
W <--> BR ohms = ???
W <--> GY ohms = ???
BL <--> R ohms = ???
W/B <--> O/G ohms = ???


DO NOT puncture wires!!! This will introduce moisture and cause green/black wire disease and cause future issues. Along with potential for shorting wires across each other.

[falonso0]

There is two videos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/u3X9dqk4Gqf5hpD26

[falonso0]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

Uh... you DO have problem with turn-signals, they don't work. You have to disconnect front ones in order for rear to work. And neither works when you have dash plugged in. I think that means you DO have problem with turn-signals.

Ok, show us picture of how you have ballast-resistors connected. Much, much easier to not install those and just replace flasher-relay with LED-compatible unit.

Also don't tell me you use crimp-connectors! They are unreliable and intermittent connections can be cause you more frustration as circuits will work some times and not at other times.

Link to original page on YouTube.

This is ONLY way to do reliable wiring connections. That lasts at least 50-years. It's done this way in pro-motorsports, military and aerospace applications for performance, reliability and durability. ALL other methods are not as good and will cause you problems much sooner. That is why your turn-signals sometimes work and sometimes don't work with dash plugged in. Most likely dash-connection is red-herring, distraction, not really related to turn-signals. It's the movement of connecting and disconnecting dash that re-connects crimp of turn-signal wiring. It may be connected now with wiggling, but it will fail again in future.

Fix it and make correct wiring-connections shown in video. There's never enough time to do it right 1st time, but there's always time to do it AGAIN! Often on side of road in total darkness and rain!

Sorry Dannon but it's difficult for me to write this kind of things in another language. I am not very good at writing English since I speak Spanish. It is evident that you are not understanding what I am writing. As I said before, the turn signals thing is not easy to explain for me. Thank you for being so patient!

Maybe in this way will be more clear (like a table):

Dash ON - Front turn signals disconnected - Taillight OFF - Rear turn signals OFF
Dash ON - Front turn signals connected - Taillight OFF - Rear turn signals ON
Dash ON - Front turn signals disconnected - Taillight DISCONNECTED - Rear turn signals OFF
Dash ON - Front turn signals connected - Taillight DISCONNECTED - Rear turn signals OFF
Dash OFF - Front turn signals disconnected - Taillight ON - Rear turn signals ON
Dash OFF - Front turn signals connected - Taillight ON - Rear turn signals ON
Dash OFF - Front turn signals disconnected - Taillight DISCONNECTED - Rear turn signals OFF
Dash OFF - Front turn signals connected - Taillight DISCONNECTED - Rear turn signals OFF

If you see the videos above, will be easy to understand.

No crimp-connectors, all are solded (I have only the resistor of the picture).

[falonso0]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

You have fuel-valve problems too? What position do you have valve set to? It should point to ON.

Yes, ON

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

Which means petrol only flows when engine is spinning. Otherwise it is closed and stops petrol flow. If it doesn't function like this, you need to fix fuel-valve as well.

Ok thanks, I will try it.

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

Well, to fix it, you have to remove tank anyway to remove ignition-switch. Might as well measure all wires outlined above so you can determine which contacts inside switch is problem. Add these additional tests to those above:

5. measure resistance between these wires, disconnect battery, unplug ignition-switch from harness, KEY ON
W <--> BR ohms = ???
W <--> GY ohms = ???
BL <--> R ohms = ???
W/B <--> O/G ohms = ???

Ok thanks! I will do it!

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

DO NOT puncture wires!!! This will introduce moisture and cause green/black wire disease and cause future issues. Along with potential for shorting wires across each other.

Okok!

[DannoXYZ]

Originally Posted by falonso0

Sorry Dannon but it's difficult for me to write this kind of things in another language. I am not very good at writing English since I speak Spanish. It is evident that you are not understanding what I am writing. As I said before, the turn signals thing is not easy to explain for me. Thank you for being so patient!

Your English is very good!!! I learned English as 2nd language and have to read and write very carefully. We are talking about two different things using same words. When you say "lights work", you mean light bulbs turn ON. Yes, bulbs do turn on when power is applied.

When I say "lights don't work", I mean "light circuits", which is battery+switches+wires+bulbs combined. And you'd done very good job of creating table:



Your bike's lights, when all parts are assembled like factory configuration, does not function like stock when you push turn-signal button. It functions like top table, not bottom one. So I'm saying "your light circuits do not work".

1. when pushing turn-signal switch, what transmits power to light bulbs to tell them to turn on?
2. Assuming switch and bulbs are OK, when you push turn-signal switch and bulbs DO NOT turn ON, where do you think problem is?

There's at least 18 wiring-connections that are not stock in your wiring-harness. That's 18x2x2 = 72 possible combinations! You can play around and test and try to fix by changing each and every connection. Until you've tried all 72 combinations and one of them will work. This may take you 3-4 weeks, or more.


What I'm suggesting is to do just 2 configurations of wiring circuits (instead of 71 more) :

1. go back to config of lighting circuits that work 100%. That was stock OEM configuration. We know that works for sure.

2. Then install LED upgrades, one bulb at time. Test after each one installed to verify entire lighting system and circuits work like stock (2nd table). I can show you how to hook up each bulb so entire system will work. But only from 100% stock system with switches and circuits working like they should.

This entire process will take one day maximum. Money-back guarantee! Well, since you are not paying me any money, all I can give you is bike with upgraded LED lighting system with circuits and switches that work like they should.

[DannoXYZ]

BTW, when installing LED bulbs, did you use multimeter to find +12v wire in circuit? Or did you just plug into connector like original?

Also how do you have ballast-resistors connected?
Where are your photos?
It's just like maths class, show your work!

[atsmurat]

Originally Posted by Triple Jim

I can tell you for sure that CDI is never a problem in a stock Ninja 250.

Yes I agree .

[falonso0]

Hello everyone! I was with some personal issues and did not have time to respond. Anyway I can't do tests until I have everything in condition in my workspace, there is a lot to do and I need to be prepared. I must solve it because it is the motorcycle that I use in case they call me from work. I'll be back soon and answer everything, and above all I will try to have some test done. Thank you all for trying to help me!

[DannoXYZ]

make sure you document everything you do so you can re-assemble or reverse if needed. Take lots of photos. For example:

- fuel-valve vacuum line
- fuel-level sender wire
- ignition switch connector
- etc.

[falonso0]

[QUOTE=DannoXYZ;1281505]You have fuel-valve problems too? What position do you have valve set to? It should point to ON. Which means petrol only flows when engine is spinning. Otherwise it is closed and stops petrol flow. If it doesn't function like this, you need to fix fuel-valve as well.

Confirmed.. fuel-valve broken.. I took out the tank and I had a lot of trouble putting it somewhere else.. My house smells like gasoline, I hate it. I had to put it back on the bike but I could see where the problem is.
Brown cable Pin on switch harness connector is like burned.. the same thing with the other connector of the harness.. but no fuse broken.. The other suspicious is the regulator/rectifier (brown cable direction).

Regulator/rectifier resistant testings:

BLACK ON W PIN
W-Y1: 1420 Kohms
W-Y2: 1490 Kohms
W-Y3: 1430 Kohms
BLACK ON BK/Y PIN
BK/Y-Y1: 1
BK/Y-Y2: 1
BK/Y-Y3: 1

Polarity inverted:
RED ON W PIN
W-Y1: 1
W-Y2: 1
W-Y3: 1
RED ON BK/Y PIN
BK/Y-Y1: 1440 Kohms
BK/Y-Y2: 1410 Kohms
BK/Y-Y3: 1450 Kohms



Well, to fix it, you have to remove tank anyway to remove ignition-switch. Might as well measure all wires outlined above so you can determine which contacts inside switch is problem. Add these additional tests to those above:

5. measure resistance between these wires, disconnect battery, unplug ignition-switch from harness, KEY ON

I measured continuity instead of resistance between the terminals with KEY ON:

W <--> BR ohms = tester beeping
W <--> GY ohms = tester beeping
BL <--> R ohms = tester beeping
W/B <--> O/G ohms = tester beeping

Apparently the switch is not the problem..

[DannoXYZ]

Well, if you've got fuel-valve issues, you can lay tank down sideways so valve is higher than petrol level. Or disconnect fuel-hose from carburetor, screw big bolt into hose to stop petrol flow. Then pull tank with hose.

Let's do these tests from earlier. Back probe harness side of connector so reading is taken after connector.. When you get steady voltage reading, wiggle key in ignition switch and see if voltage drops. Then repeat for next wire.

2. KEY OFF - ignition-switch connector
BR = voltage ??
W = voltage ??
R/BL = voltage ??
W/BK = voltage ??
W/G = voltage ??
GY = voltage ??

3. KEY ON - ignition-switch connector
BR = voltage ??
W = voltage ??
R/BL = voltage ??
W/BK = voltage ??
W/G = voltage ??
GY = voltage ??

4. KEY ON, backprobe fuse-box
W/G = voltage ???
O/G = voltage ???
BR/W = voltage ???
BR/BK = voltage ???
R/BL = voltage ???
GY = voltage ???
BR = voltage ???
W/BL = voltage ???
W = voltage ???


While you do those, I'll write up test to trace flow of electricity from battery to starter-solenoid. Somewhere you may have break in circuit. Post photos of burnt-looking connector and brown wire. Also photos of your turn-signal installations.

[DannoXYZ]

Here's test of starter circuit (clip black-probe to battery-negative terminal to free 3rd hand):

6. KEY ON, test voltage at these points

battery +positive terminal = voltage ???
B-terminal of starter-solenoid = voltage ???
White wire leaving starter-solenoid = voltage ??? (pull back rubber cover on connector and back-probe)

White wire at ignition-switch connector = voltage ???
Brown wire at ignition-switch connector (harness side) = voltage ???
Grey wire at ignition-switch connector (harness side) = voltage ???

Brown wire going into fuse-box = voltage ???
Yellow/Red wire going into start/stop/kill switch = voltage???
start/stop/kill switch ON
Red wire leaving start/stop/kill switch = voltage ???

Red wire going into start-button = voltage ???
press START button and hold down
Black/Red wire leaving start-button = voltage ???
both Blue wires going into starter-circuit relay = voltage ???
Yellow/Red wire leaving starter-circuit relay = voltage ???

Yellow/Red wire going into starter-solenoid = voltage ??? (pull rubber cover off and back-probe)
M-terminal of starter-solenoid = voltage ???
release START button


This basically follows path of electricity from battery to starter motor. Where +12v power disappears shows problem is previous junction.

[falonso0]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

Well, if you've got fuel-valve issues, you can lay tank down sideways so valve is higher than petrol level. Or disconnect fuel-hose from carburetor, pull tank with hose, then screw big bolt into end of hose to stop petrol flow.

Ok I will try second option. Thanks!

Let's do these tests from earlier. Back probe harness side of connector so reading is taken after connector.. When you get steady voltage reading, wiggle key in ignition switch and see if voltage drops. Then repeat for next wire.

Ok what you mean is that I plug in the key switch connector and once plugged in, do the tests according to the table, right? but what is not clear to me is where the second tip of the tester goes to measure voltage?

2. KEY OFF - ignition-switch connector
BR = voltage ??
W = voltage ??
R/BL = voltage ??
W/BK = voltage ??
W/G = voltage ??
GY = voltage ??

3. KEY ON - ignition-switch connector
BR = voltage ??
W = voltage ??
R/BL = voltage ??
W/BK = voltage ??
W/G = voltage ??
GY = voltage ??

4. KEY ON, backprobe fuse-box
W/G = voltage ???
O/G = voltage ???
BR/W = voltage ???
BR/BK = voltage ???
R/BL = voltage ???
GY = voltage ???
BR = voltage ???
W/BL = voltage ???
W = voltage ???

While you do those, I'll write up test to trace flow of electricity from battery to starter-solenoid. Somewhere you may have break in circuit.

Ok thank you so much!

Post photos of burnt-looking connector and brown wire. Also photos of your turn-signal installations.

Yes, I must first remove the tank to be able to take the photos and upload. The turns are all disconnected so that they do not affect the circuit.

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by falonso0

...but what is not clear to me is where the second tip of the tester goes to measure voltage?

Negative meter probe to ground.

[DannoXYZ]

Originally Posted by falonso0

but what is not clear to me is where the second tip of the tester goes to measure voltage?

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

(clip black-probe to battery-negative terminal to free 3rd hand)

Read up on how to use multimeter to measure voltage, resistance and current.
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials...multimeter/all

[falonso0]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

Read up on how to use multimeter to measure voltage, resistance and current.
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials...multimeter/all

Thank you but I know how to use a tester, that's not the question. The question is about your indications. I suppose that what you want is that I plug in the harness connector of the key switch and put the negative of the tester on the frame and the positive on the mentioned cables. I just want to be sure, to avoid a short.

[Triple Jim]

Originally Posted by falonso0

I just want to be sure, to avoid a short.

If the meter is set to read volts, you can't short anything with the two probes because there are several megohms of resistance between them. Reading that information in Danno's link might be a good idea.

[DannoXYZ]

Originally Posted by falonso0

Thank you but I know how to use a tester, that's not the question. The question is about your indications. I suppose that what you want is that I plug in the harness connector of the key switch and put the negative of the tester on the frame and the positive on the mentioned cables.

yes

[falonso0]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

yes

Hi Danno! I already did my homework! I took all the measurements you asked for. I found that the brown wire that comes from the ignition key has 12.6v and stops having them after the connector. Something made the brown wire connector hot to the point of needing to separate, we'd have to figure out what causes it. Also, the gray cable has 6.6v, which seems strange to me..

I hope we find the solution! Thanks again for the time and patience to answer me.

Here are the photos that you asked me of the connector burned with the brown wire, and the turns signals connections (It took me a while because I had the connections protected and I had to disassemble them)

Photos:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/u3X9dqk4Gqf5hpD26

Measurements:

2. KEY OFF - ignition-switch connector
BR = 0v
W = 12,6v
R/BL = 0v
W/BK = 12,6v
W/G = 0v
GY = 0v

3. KEY ON - ignition-switch connector
BR = 12,6v
W = 12,6v
R/BL = 0v
W/BK = 12,6v
W/G = 12,6v
GY = 6,66v

4. KEY ON, backprobe fuse-box
W/G = 12,6v
O/G = 12,6v
BR/W = 0v
BR/BK = 0v
R/BL = 0v
GY = 0v
BR = 0v
W/BL = 12,6v
W = 12,6v

6. KEY ON, test voltage at these points

battery +positive terminal = 12,6v
B-terminal of starter-solenoid = 12,6v
White wire leaving starter-solenoid = 12,6v (pull back rubber cover on connector and back-probe)

White wire at ignition-switch connector = 12,6v
Brown wire at ignition-switch connector (harness side) = 0v
Grey wire at ignition-switch connector (harness side) = 6,6v

Brown wire going into fuse-box = 0v
Yellow/Red wire going into start/stop/kill switch = 0v
start/stop/kill switch ON
Red wire leaving start/stop/kill switch = 0v

Red wire going into start-button = 0v
press START button and hold down
Black/Red (is Blue/Red) wire leaving start-button = 0v
both Blue wires going into starter-circuit relay = 0,58v (both)
Yellow/Red wire leaving starter-circuit relay = 0v

Yellow/Red wire going into starter-solenoid = 0v (pull rubber cover off and back-probe)
M-terminal of starter-solenoid = 0v
release START button

[DannoXYZ]

This is very good testing and troubleshooting!!! First simple matter:

Grey wire at ignition-switch connector (harness side) = 6,6v

This shows your battery is weak. Grey wire be around 10v. Keep your battery on trickle-charger during all this troubleshooting since engine is not running to charge it. You will destroy battery and need to buy new one if you don't keep it on trickle-charger.

Good job, you've identified the problem here:

3. KEY ON - ignition-switch connector
BR = 12,6v

6. KEY ON, test voltage at these points
Brown wire at ignition-switch connector (harness side) = 0v

This shows ignition-switch is working properly and sending main power from battery (white) to brown-wire. But power on brown-wire doesn't make it across connector to harness. Br wire sends power to fuse-box and powers horn, ignition, tail-light, and head-light. Since your tail-light is turning ON, there's something not correct with your wiring. We'll deal with that later as it's related to your non-functional turn-signal system.

White corrosion on brass terminals of your ignition-switch connector is from contact with water. Zinc in brass connector reacts with water to form white powder and increases resistance of connection. This causes heat and burns surface, prevents electricity from flowing. Do you live near ocean? I had this problem with my VF500F when I lived next to ocean at university.

There's multiple ways to fix this with different levels of difficulty and depth. Easiest first step is to remove corrosion from male terminals of ignition-switch connector.



1. unplug ignition-switch connector from harness
2. wrap some 300-400 grit sandpaper around tip of small flat screwdriver
3. lightly sand both sides of each male connector to remove white powder
4. blow off all dust
5. connect ignition-switch back to harness
6. Turn key ON, do you have light on dash? Tail-light work? Horn work?

6a. If YES, then disconnect ignition-switch connector and apply some dielectric-grease to male-terminals. Proceed to #7
6b. If NO, then connector terminals are too badly damaged and we'll try next repair procedure. Stop here

7. connect ignition-switch back to harness
8. test starting engine.

[DannoXYZ]

What is resistance value of ballast resistor you're using?

To prevent more issues, apply some heat-shrink wrap around all female 6.3mm spade connectors used to connect to factory harness. This prevents positive wire of each turn-signal from touching negative wire.



You've done very nice job with LED turn-signals. Makes it easy to disconnect and troubleshoot. You also add these connectors to factory turn-signals so they can be swapped back in easily.

[falonso0]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

This is very good testing and troubleshooting!!!
Thank you Danno!!

First simple matter:

This shows your battery is weak. Grey wire be around 10v. Keep your battery on trickle-charger during all this troubleshooting since engine is not running to charge it. You will destroy battery and need to buy new one if you don't keep it on trickle-charger.

Ok, I have this charger with the option of 1A and 2A, and I use it in 2A (I had it connected but it remained disconnected since the last time I did tests, I will reconnect it):



Good job, you've identified the problem here:

This shows ignition-switch is working properly and sending main power from battery (white) to brown-wire. But power on brown-wire doesn't make it across connector to harness. Br wire sends power to fuse-box and powers horn, ignition, tail-light, and head-light. Since your tail-light is turning ON, there's something not correct with your wiring. We'll deal with that later as it's related to your non-functional turn-signal system.

Ok no problem, step by step. I also remind you that the stop light only came ON when we disconnected the dash, which is weird anyway.

White corrosion on brass terminals of your ignition-switch connector is from contact with water. Zinc in brass connector reacts with water to form white powder and increases resistance of connection. This causes heat and burns surface, prevents electricity from flowing. Do you live near ocean? I had this problem with my VF500F when I lived next to ocean at university.

That's the weird thing and it doesn't make sense to me.. I don't live near the ocean but maybe it's a humidity issue. Anyway I do not understand why a single connector burned that way and the rest did not? Could it be because brown connector was lazy?
Do you think it is safe to get the pins to contact again after fixing?

There's multiple ways to fix this with different levels of difficulty and depth. Easiest first step is to remove corrosion from male terminals of ignition-switch connector.



1. unplug ignition-switch connector from harness
2. wrap some 300-400 grit sandpaper around tip of small flat screwdriver
3. lightly sand both sides of each male connector to remove white powder
4. blow off all dust
5. connect ignition-switch back to harness
6. Turn key ON, do you have light on dash? Tail-light work? Horn work?

6a. If YES, then disconnect ignition-switch connector and apply some dielectric-grease to male-terminals. Proceed to #7
6b. If NO, then connector terminals are too badly damaged and we'll try next repair procedure. Stop here

7. connect ignition-switch back to harness
8. test starting engine.

Ok, I don't see it complicated. I will make sure to remove all corrosion from the pins and that they have continuity with each other as appropriate.
Can this product be used to improve the contact of the pins?




Does it seem to you that this is just a corrosion issue and there isn't something else?

[falonso0]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

What is resistance value of ballast resistor you're using?



To prevent more issues, apply some heat-shrink wrap around all female 6.3mm spade connectors used to connect to factory harness. This prevents positive wire of each turn-signal from touching negative wire.

I had it like this but I took it out so that the connection could be seen. When I finish, I will leave it protected again.



You've done very nice job with LED turn-signals. Makes it easy to disconnect and troubleshoot. You also add these connectors to factory turn-signals so they can be swapped back in easily.

Thank you! exactly, that was the idea. Being able to disconnect easily without having to cut or splice any cables. All terminals were welded accordingly.

[DannoXYZ]

Originally Posted by falonso0

Ok no problem, step by step. I also remind you that the stop light only came ON when we disconnected the dash, which is weird anyway.

Yes, you have wiring problem with lighting circuits.

Originally Posted by falonso0

That's the weird thing and it doesn't make sense to me.. I don't live near the ocean but maybe it's a humidity issue. Anyway I do not understand why a single connector burned that way and the rest did not? Could it be because brown connector was lazy?
Do you think it is safe to get the pins to contact again after fixing?

Brown-wire carries most power across connector: starter circuit, ignition-circuit (coils), headlights & taillights. When it tries to pass through corrosion, it heats up most. Could also be you got some some wires shorted during taillight install. Might not have been high enough to blow 30a main fuse, but enough to really cook that connector. Major problem is specs used by Kawasaki, highest-rated 1/4" spade connector is 24a w/10ga wire. But they used it in 30a circuit, it will fail before fuse blows!

Originally Posted by falonso0

Does it seem to you that this is just a corrosion issue and there isn't something else?

WD40 is too thin. Try to find real dielectric grease. It will seal connection against moisture much better than WD40.

While you're looking, get some of this DeoxIT liquid or spray version. It's chemical cleaner that dissolves white corrosion. Easier to do on female connectors that aren't easy to sand. Use on both sides after mechanically removing as much corrosion as possible. Should be OK after full cleaning to re-assemble and test.

After we get this fixed, you can seal connector even more by wrapping it completely in electrical tape.

[falonso0]

Originally Posted by DannoXYZ

Yes, you have wiring problem with lighting circuits.

If so, the problem has to be in a place that is not being seen. The circuits that I showed you in the photos were like this before the problem (they were also protected) and had no shorts.
In any case there must be a problem before the harness turns or stop connectors, unless the problem can be within the stop.


Brown-wire carries most power across connector: starter circuit, ignition-circuit (coils), headlights & taillights. When it tries to pass through corrosion, it heats up most. Could also be you got some some wires shorted during taillight install. Might not have been high enough to blow 30a main fuse, but enough to really cook that connector.

Ok surely it was not enough to blow the 30A fuse but if I'm not mistaken it should have blown a 10A fuse from the fuse box and that didn't happen. Unless with 9A the pin can be burned the same without blowing the 10A fuse.
Anyway after removing the corrosion from the connector, I will test it without connecting the stop and turns signals. If it works I will try to add them. If these are the ones that cause the problem I will find out.


WD40 is too thin. Try to find real dielectric grease. It will seal connection against moisture much better than WD40.

While you're looking, get some of this DeoxIT liquid or spray version. It's chemical cleaner that dissolves white corrosion. Easier to do on female connectors that aren't easy to sand. Use on both sides after mechanically removing as much corrosion as possible. Should be OK after full cleaning to re-assemble and test.

After we get this fixed, you can seal connector even more by wrapping it completely in electrical tape.

Ok I will do it, thanks!

[falonso0]

I wanted to thank everyone for the help, especially Danno.
I have already solved the problem. I regret the delay in responding, I had personal problems to attend to and I could not continue writing.

I made sure to remove all pin-by-pin corrosion on both connectors and then protect it with electrical tape and with that everything was back to normal! I also took advantage of the fact that I had the motorcycle disassembled to solve small things that were still pending.
Regarding the circuit of turns signals, I checked everything very carefully and I did not see anything that was malfunctioning or causing problems in practice and for that reason I did not consider that there was more to do.

I have already been able to use the bike several times and it is as if this never happened

Thanks again! and if there is anything I can help you with, you can write to me!