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Old October 18th, 2010, 12:53 PM   #121
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Originally Posted by egutierrez90 View Post
Hmm yea, looks good, yea i installed the jet in the right spot, but the reason why i couldn't screw the bottom cap back on was because the jets i ordered were SUPER long, so they stuck outward ridiculously..so when it came time to screw the cap back on the main jet kept the cap from closing..there was like 1/3 gap between the carbs and the cap o_0 so I just put everything back and am now just gonna order from the website recommended by Kkim..
a few questions..did your bike go out of sync? did you re-sync it?
and do you have an aftermarket f/s or s/o exhaust?
I have a full aftermarket exhaust. I did'nt sync the carbs, mainly because I was lazy. lol. I just backed out the mixture screws 2.5 out. The bike runs great. Starts up perfect, warms up fast, no "dead" spots in the rpm range. Also, my carbs are shimmed with 3 washers.

Jets are us is a good website. it only took 3 days for the jet to come in. Can you retrun your jets and get you money back? Did they just send you the wrong ones for a differnt bike?
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Old October 18th, 2010, 01:17 PM   #122
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oh alright sounds good, yea I have no idea what went wrong with the ones i ordered, did manage to get my money back anyways xP so no problem there..
i think imma go ahead and order some 110's from jets r us..
Idk if what they gave me was for a different bike or even a different vehicle..but i got my refund so I'm happy and willing to give it another try, haha
hey so i was looking at your ninjette (through your pics) and noticed you have that tube hanging around, you just leaving it hanging around?

I didn't know what to do with it in the beginning..its fine if you just leave it open like that?
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Old October 18th, 2010, 01:54 PM   #123
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That is part of the Kleen Air System. That was one of the things I took out during the filrer install mess. I would recomend you to take it out also if you have a full exhaust. Here is a link to the removal of it. http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9948
Did you order the jets yet??
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Old October 18th, 2010, 01:55 PM   #124
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Just to note, that line connected to the top of the OEM airbox just for an idea of where it went to if you did'nt already.
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Old October 18th, 2010, 07:59 PM   #125
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I haven't had the time to..I have to work in a bit anyway xP I probably will some time this weekend..its raining over here so I don't need to change it right away..haha, just sitting in my garage, and oh see well thats why I've decided to keep my kleen air system on, because I still have the stock exhaust on..no aftermarkets parts on my exhaust yet..>_<
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Old October 18th, 2010, 08:29 PM   #126
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Got cha, yeah, i'd leave it hanging their out of the way. Atleast that is what I did for a day. You can always take it off even though you have the stock exhaust on, but I think someone said that COULD mess up the cat on the exhaust.?. I feel you on the rain too. It's raining here also. =(
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Old October 20th, 2010, 11:50 PM   #127
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I am thinking about doing this for my bike, but what is the runner? Is it the breather? Or is it something else, after looking at so many pictures for so long I just end up getting confused. And I apologize because I'm not reading everyones responses word for word.

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Old October 21st, 2010, 07:38 PM   #128
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the runner is the rubber tube that is fixed to the original air filter which takes the air to the carbs, you can take it off (kinda like the snorkel) and you use that to extend the K&N filter away from the carb. in my case i needed it cos the filter was rubbing on a metal stub of the bike frame, but i think if you use the 0990 type filter it doesn't have that problem, and you can fix the filter directly to the carbs.
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Old October 23rd, 2010, 02:10 PM   #129
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Just to update..I ordered my main jets 110 from jets r us yesterday...
Can't wait for them to come!! XP
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Old October 23rd, 2010, 02:27 PM   #130
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Just to update..I ordered my main jets 110 from jets r us yesterday...
Can't wait for them to come!! XP
Good! Keep us posted on how it turns out!
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Old October 24th, 2010, 12:01 AM   #131
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What are my options for different breathers I can get that will fit directly on?
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Old November 9th, 2010, 05:49 PM   #132
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Just to update..I ordered my main jets 110 from jets r us yesterday...
Can't wait for them to come!! XP
So... Did you install them? They fit rite?
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Old November 10th, 2010, 04:06 PM   #133
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So... Did you install them? They fit rite?
Oh my gosh!!! I totally forgot to update!!! I had gotten them, installed..and now my ninjette runs smoothly =]

VERY good all in all =D

perfect fit and i got my refund, so all is well..
I'm actually working on a DIY for a fender eliminator that I haven't found up yet..so lets see how my first DIY goes..=]
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Old November 14th, 2010, 06:35 AM   #134
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I installed my filter the other day.

Note 1: You can remove the airbox from the top if you destroy it :P .

Note 2: You will have about 5HP without jetting the bike if you install a pod filter.

I connected mine directly to the carb. I didn't realize until after the pic that I had bent some of the fins wrestling it onto the carb, but Ive just about straitened them out. I secured with zip ties around each runner, to the frame on their respective sides, and it seemed to help a lot with the vibration:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg intake_zipties.jpg (120.0 KB, 23 views)
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Old November 22nd, 2010, 07:54 PM   #135
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I secured with zip ties around each runner, to the frame on their respective sides, and it seemed to help a lot with the vibration:
make sure you don't tighten them too much, since the carbs do need some free movement. the engine vibrates, and i think that if its tightened too much to the frame, it doesn't let the carbs vibrate along with the engine as well.

at least that's what I've noticed, and also been told.

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Old November 22nd, 2010, 11:42 PM   #136
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How easy is is to clean these filters compared to the flat K&N slide in ones that require their special K&N spray on cleaner. Can they be washed down with Dawn detergent and dried overnight like the stock foam ones? If not, is there an alternative to the proprietery K&N spray on? What about oiling? Can they be oiled with regular motor oil?
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Old November 29th, 2010, 01:46 PM   #137
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What size inner diameter do I need for the breather please if anyone can let me know I want to have all the parts on hand for when I remove the airbox.
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Old November 30th, 2010, 12:45 PM   #138
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Quote:
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What size inner diameter do I need for the breather please if anyone can let me know I want to have all the parts on hand for when I remove the airbox.

Looking for that answer as well...
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Old November 30th, 2010, 12:57 PM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Choter View Post
What size inner diameter do I need for the breather please if anyone can let me know I want to have all the parts on hand for when I remove the airbox.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbowman78 View Post
Looking for that answer as well...
The breather for the crankcase? I believe it is 5/8". I'm pretty sure mine was 1/2" and I still had to fight it a bit to get it on.
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Old November 30th, 2010, 04:39 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Choter View Post
What size inner diameter do I need for the breather please if anyone can let me know I want to have all the parts on hand for when I remove the airbox.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cbowman78 View Post
Looking for that answer as well...
Quote:
Originally Posted by dubojr1 View Post
The breather for the crankcase? I believe it is 5/8". I'm pretty sure mine was 1/2" and I still had to fight it a bit to get it on.
I remember asking myself, then the forum the same question when I pulled my airbox a while back. It's post 56 in this thread:

Quote:
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In the OP I see Vex mentions needing/remembering late that the gear box needed a breather when pulling the box. Anyone happen to save the specs for the size of that tube (or other important measurements) so I can get a breather ahead of time? Likely gonna end up doing this in noche or another friend's garage, so the fewer trips I have to make to the auto parts store the better. Thanks!
Then I went out and measured it, post 58, this thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Momaru View Post
For reference, to connect to the end of the gearbox breather tube, it's 10mm inner diameter, 15mm outer. To connect directly to the gearbox nipple and bypass that looping tube, the OD is 22mm. I wound up just getting a double-male vacuum tube connector to bridge between the 10mm and my 12mm inner diameter cheapie breather.
Forgot I'd done that though, so went out in the rain a few minutes ago and measured it again:

There's a nipple coming off the top of the crankcase. The outer diameter on this is 16mm, thus you'll need that as the inner if you want to attach a breather directly to the top.

However, there's a tapered, bent hose that comes off the top of the crankcase to attach to the bottom of the airbox. Many people, myself included, simply attached a filter on the end of this hose. The inner diameter of the small end of the hose is 9-10mm, outer is about 15mm. The end that joins to the crankcase is 16-17mm on the inside, 22mm outside.

I'd be happy to take a picture of my setup if you want it, but it looks identical to the OP's in his second post, under the caption "ooh shiny"
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Old December 15th, 2010, 06:41 AM   #141
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Thanks for the replies 5/8 breather fit perfect the exact part i used was uni filter up-104
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Old May 23rd, 2011, 08:48 PM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indrish View Post
How easy is is to clean these filters compared to the flat K&N slide in ones that require their special K&N spray on cleaner. Can they be washed down with Dawn detergent and dried overnight like the stock foam ones? If not, is there an alternative to the proprietery K&N spray on? What about oiling? Can they be oiled with regular motor oil?
All K&N filters use the same filter media; they all require the same cleaning and oiling. The detergent *should* work, but not as quickly and easily as the purpose made cleaner. I have heard of people using motor oil, but I wouldn't.

I use No Toil oil and cleaner. K&N oil is petroleum based, so any time you get reversion from the carbs (don't know if our bikes do) it will wash out. No Toil has a base that is partially derived from unicorn smiles, and absolutely will not come out without using their proprietary cleaner. That is also the only downside of No Toil that I've found- it is impossible to get off of anything it comes in contact with unless you use their cleaner. Fingers, paint, frames, polished surfaces, plastic, rubber- it just sticks. A bottle of cleaner (powder) would last well over 1,000,000 miles. A can of oil (aerosol) should last 100,000 miles. I find that the $30 for a top of the line product that will last the life of the bike... well worth it.
http://www.coastfab.com/php/proddetail.php?prod=1187
http://www.coastfab.com/php/proddetail.php?prod=1188

edit: K&N recharge kits work great, and are readily available in any parts store- but I don't mind plugging a product that I feel is better
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Old June 2nd, 2011, 02:59 PM   #143
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VEX, neat idea of removing the air box. I am currently working on a EFI conversion for my 250r, and since the EFI will take care of the proper A/F ratio i believe increasing the air flow with this pods will end up in a increased HP without having to worry about getting the jetting right. I will be taking the bike apart to remove the carbs and to install the EFI kit, so I was thinking that i might as well remove the Air Box while I'm there. But I have few questions, does anyone had any problems with the pods, getting dirty fast (or water ingress) since there is no box? how does this mod compares to removing the snorkel only, have anyone compare both intake mods?
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Old June 2nd, 2011, 03:11 PM   #144
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my pods stay pretty clean. no problems with water, either. with the side panels in place, it seems to form a nice shielded area under the seat with the airbox gone.
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Old June 2nd, 2011, 06:46 PM   #145
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have someone tried if the filter K&N will work RC-4350?

Part R-0990 Product Specifications
Product Style: Dual Flange Oval Universal Air Filter
Flange Center to Center: 2.625 in (67 mm)
Flange Inside Diameter: 1.875 in (48 mm)
Flange Length: 0.625 in (16 mm)
Flange Type: Offset
Height: 3 in (76 mm)
Outside Length: 6.125 in (156 mm)
Outside Width: 3.875 in (98 mm)
Top Style: Rubber
Top Material/Finish: None
Filter Material: Cotton Gauze
Flanges: 2
Base Outside Length: 6.125 in (156 mm)
Base Outside Width: 3.875 in (98 mm)
Filter Re-Oiling Amount: 0.57 oz (17 ml)
Flange Offset: 0.375 in (10 mm)
Footnote 1: Offset Is Horizontal
Top Outside Length: 6.125 in (156 mm)
Top Outside Width: 3.875 in (98 mm)
Weight: 1 lb (0.5 kg)
Product Box Length: 4.63 in (117 mm)
Product Box Width: 4.63 in (117 mm)
Product Box Height: 7.25 in (184 mm)

Part RC-4350 Product Specifications
Product Style: Dual Flange Oval Universal Air Filter
Flange Center to Center: 2.625 in (67 mm)
Flange Inside Diameter: 2 in (51 mm)
Flange Length: 0.625 in (16 mm)
Flange Type: Offset
Height: 3.25 in (83 mm)
Outside Length: 6.25 in (159 mm)
Outside Width: 4 in (102 mm)
Top Style: Metal
Top Material/Finish: Chrome
Filter Material: Cotton Gauze
Flanges: 2
Base Outside Length: 6.25 in (159 mm)
Base Outside Width: 4 in (102 mm)
Filter Re-Oiling Amount: 0.3 oz (9 ml)
Flange Offset: 0.25 in (6 mm)
Footnote 1: Offset Is Vertical
Top Outside Length: 6.25 in (159 mm)
Top Outside Width: 4 in (102 mm)
Weight: 1.2 lb (0.5 kg)
Product Box Length: 4.63 in (117 mm)
Product Box Width: 4.63 in (117 mm)
Product Box Height: 7.25 in (184 mm)
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Old July 14th, 2011, 10:04 PM   #146
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I **** you not there's 8 or so screws all around the air box attaching this guy in.
Indeed. The screw on the bottom and closest to the tail-end of the bike made last night hell. I ended up taking a jigsaw to it and cutting the screw out. I have no idea how anyone got to it, no matter how much I twisted or yanked that airbox, that screw was unscrewable O.o

But good diy, im new to bikes and I would have known the airbox from the carbs lol this is the first thing ive ever worked on with carbs too
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Old July 14th, 2011, 10:57 PM   #147
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removing the rear wheel and the rear brake reserve allows you to remove the stock air box with much much more ease!

they did have to get it in there in the 1st place. although they might have done that before mounting the engine, but its also possible that they do it from the rear before the wheel, fender, etc were all in place.

i was at the verge of removing the wheel when i finally managed to take the two halves apart to get the darn thing out! but managed the hard way, lol

if i had to do it again, i would definitely try taking it out from the back, hehe
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Old July 16th, 2011, 08:32 AM   #148
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removing the rear wheel and the rear brake reserve allows you to remove the stock air box with much much more ease!

they did have to get it in there in the 1st place. although they might have done that before mounting the engine, but its also possible that they do it from the rear before the wheel, fender, etc were all in place.

i was at the verge of removing the wheel when i finally managed to take the two halves apart to get the darn thing out! but managed the hard way, lol

if i had to do it again, i would definitely try taking it out from the back, hehe

I think they built the bike around the airbox
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Old July 17th, 2011, 11:16 AM   #149
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when i removed my box it wasn't too bad. i just followed vex's diy guide. triple checked to make sure that all the screws in the box were removed. it helps to have a JIS screw driver. i managed to separate the box into 2, then needed to dislodge the metal screen inside the airbox. once that was done the box completely separated in two and was able to remove each out thru the top separately. the factory manual says you should remove the rear wheel and then pull the box out thru the back.
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Old July 19th, 2011, 03:38 PM   #150
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Is it illegal to remove the air box? I'm not sure if that's what were talking about, but I was reading my manual yesterday and came across something on page 73 that said its illegal to tamper with the emissions system including removing the air box. Can someone clarify for me? I'm just a little confused and this maybe not even be relevant but please don't hate.
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Old July 19th, 2011, 03:42 PM   #151
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Is it illegal to remove the air box? I'm not sure if that's what were talking about, but I was reading my manual yesterday and came across something on page 73 that said its illegal to tamper with the emissions system including removing the air box. Can someone clarify for me? I'm just a little confused and this maybe not even be relevant but please don't hate.
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Old July 21st, 2011, 02:28 PM   #152
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My dad hates extra loud things.... particularly HDs that set off car alarms and stop your heart (I can hardly blame him). He asked a local LEO he met at Starbucks about the loud motorcycles, and they shrugged it off, saying they won't do anything about it. I assume this depends where you are.
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Old August 29th, 2011, 10:22 AM   #153
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Quote:
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if you yank the airbox, I don't now anyone who has done so that is still using the stock airbox. You would need to change the main jets. (costs about $5 each) I'd suggest using 110 Keihins to start and take plug readings to figure out if you need to go up or down from there.

that should keep you really busy.

if you buy a jet kit, be sure to get one made for no airbox.
HELLO KIM JUST A QUESTION???? I HAVE REMOVE MY KLEEN AIR INTAKE AND I HAVE REJET AND HAS A FULL EXHAUST KnN FILTERS AND HAS A BRT RACING CDI NON PROGAMABLE...IS THIS REMOVING THE AIR BOX WILL REALLY HELP OR WHAT BENEFITS MY BIKE WILL GET IN THIS MOD AND CAN U SEND ME A LINK WHERE I CAN PURCHASE THIS KIT...thank u very much
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Old November 1st, 2011, 08:07 AM   #154
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How can it be applied to an FI ninja (2011)? I think that there will be only 1 intake hole for the engine at the airfilter box right? So I'll need a different filter.

Anyone tried it on a FI model? Which filter should I use?
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Old September 10th, 2012, 07:22 PM   #155
Tiane
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^^^ Interested on the same... can I use a pod filter on a 250 FI?
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Old September 10th, 2012, 07:56 PM   #156
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^^^ Interested on the same... can I use a pod filter on a 250 FI?
Yes but you need a power commander to adjust the amount of fuel delivered to the engine. Simply modifying the stock intake will cause your bike to run far too lean
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Old September 10th, 2012, 07:59 PM   #157
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juice box needed there, so you can adjust the ammount of fuel that the EFI pumps into the engine.

there was a thread somewhere a while back with pictures and general Butt-dyno results from someone playing around with the juice box on their Euro EFI model.
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Old September 10th, 2012, 08:03 PM   #158
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Yes, I got the Bazzaz with autotuner ready to install, just doing some research at what else can I do to improve the power on the FI... also looking at the factory pro Ignition Advance Kit, and removing the Kleen air system.
Thanks
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Old September 10th, 2012, 08:20 PM   #159
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Yes, I got the Bazzaz with autotuner ready to install, just doing some research at what else can I do to improve the power on the FI... also looking at the factory pro Ignition Advance Kit, and removing the Kleen air system.
Thanks
Full area p race exhaust!

http://areapnolimits.com/products/Sl...-Race-2008.php
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Old September 13th, 2012, 09:07 PM   #160
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extreme fiddle factor on this mod....

I dont think i want to disassemble the whole bloody bike just to dump the airbox.....too much work and even after all that, its still just a 250... :-D
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