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Old March 11th, 2015, 12:18 PM   #1
BlueDragon
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Starting issues, Ninja 2010 won't crank

A month ago, when I tried to start my bike, it was cranking but it wouldn't catch. When I tried rolling the throttle while trying to start it it died completely. I put in a brand new battery and new spark plugs and it was running fine. I haven't ridden my ninja in over a week and when I went to start it, nothing happened. It wasn't cranking and it made no sound at all when I tried to start the engine. I made sure the battery was fully charged and the lights turned on, so I don't think the battery is the problem. I'm not very mechanical so any suggestions would be helpful.
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Old March 11th, 2015, 01:53 PM   #2
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Okay so you made sure the battery was fully charged? Is there clicking noise when you hit the starter button? Anything else? Lights dimming?

Do you own a digital volt meter? Did you verify all connections were clean and tight? Did you check all the fuses? Including the main?


Here is my write-up on battery testing,
Quote:
Please make sure the battery is properly charged, with a trickle charger/maintenance charger.

Once it's charged, take it to an automotive place and have it load tested, forget the voltage, etc... Don't mean nothing, is the battery a wet cell? Sealed? If it's a wet cell and not sealed the sure fire way to test it is the purchase a battery hydrometer.

Battery Testing can be done in more than one way. The most accurate method is measurement of specific gravity and battery voltage. To measure specific gravity buy a temperature compensating hydrometer, to measure voltage use a digital D.C. Voltmeter. A quality load tester may be a good purchase if you need to test sealed batteries.

For any of these methods, you must first fully charge the battery and then remove the surface charge. If the battery has been sitting at least several hours (I prefer at least 12 hours) you may begin testing. To remove surface charge the battery must be discharged for several minutes. Using a headlight (high beam) will do the trick. After turning off the light you are ready to test the battery.


State of Charge Specific Gravity Voltage
* * 12V 6V
100% 1.265 12.7 6.3
75% 1.225 12.4 6.2
50% 1.190 12.2 6.1
25% 1.155 12.0 6.0
Discharged 1.120 11.9 6.0

Load testing is yet another way of testing a battery. Load test removes amps from a battery much like starting an engine would. A load tester can be purchased at most auto parts stores. Some battery companies label their battery with the amp load for testing. This number is usually 1/2 of the CCA rating. For instance, a 500CCA battery would load test at 250 amps for 15 seconds. A load test can only be performed if the battery is near or at full charge.

The results of your testing should be as follows:

Hydrometer readings should not vary more than .05 differences between cells.

Digital Voltmeters should read as the voltage is shown in this document. The sealed AGM and Gel-Cell battery voltage (full charged) will be slightly higher in the 12.8 to 12.9 ranges. If you have voltage readings in the 10.5 volts range on a charged battery, that typically indicates a shorted cell.

If you have a maintenance free wet cell, the only ways to test are voltmeter and load test. Any of the maintenance free type batteries that have a built in hydrometer(black/green window) will tell you the condition of 1 cell of 6. You may get a good reading from 1 cell but have a problem with other cells in the battery.

When in doubt about battery testing, call the battery manufacturer. Many batteries sold today have a toll free number to call for help.
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Old March 11th, 2015, 08:50 PM   #3
BlueDragon
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I had a friend check the battery and he said it was good and none of the fuses are blown. There are no noises what so ever when I tried to start it. Two of the light are on, the red light on the left with a picture of oil on it and a red light on the left of the fuel gauge.
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Old March 12th, 2015, 05:51 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueDragon View Post
I had a friend check the battery and he said it was good and none of the fuses are blown. There are no noises what so ever when I tried to start it. Two of the light are on, the red light on the left with a picture of oil on it and a red light on the left of the fuel gauge.
There's no neutral light? Please make sure the bike is in neutral, clutch is pulled in, etc...

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Old March 12th, 2015, 12:08 PM   #5
csmith12
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Ashley, clean your safety switches.... With the weather we have been having all over the US, your sidestand switch could be not worked as needed. Sounds pretty simple honestly.
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Old March 12th, 2015, 02:09 PM   #6
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does neutral work?
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Old March 12th, 2015, 02:49 PM   #7
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueDragon View Post
.......... I'm not very mechanical so any suggestions would be helpful.
The fastest way is to feed electricity to the starter motor directly.
If the starter works, then there is a broken link in the circuit connecting it to the battery, which needs to be found test by test.

Please, take a look at these:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_to_...attery_is_dead

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_relays_work%3F

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Underst...afety_switches

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Wiring_...s_%26_diagrams
(Click on the Start & Ignition Troubleshoot Schematic)

https://docs.google.com/document/edi...CI_Zq2E&pli=1#
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