Valve adjust and carb sync...

[jgcable]

What are the symptoms of a bike that needs a valve adjustment?

What are the symptoms of a bike that needs a carb sync?

[M42]

I had extremely tight (<.002") exhaust valves on mine at one point. The symptoms were: needing full choke to start in the summer, and stalling out while stopping for a light unless the throttle was kept open. This was over a year ago, so there was probably some other small symptoms, but these are the main ones I remember.

[CZroe]

Well, you technically need the valves serviced before you encounter noticeable symptoms. For the 2008+ model they suggest checking every 7,500 miles and adjusting then if it needs it. They don't always need it at the first 7,500 but, if they do, you risk damaging them by continuing on until the next interval (15,000) so I wouldn't push it much beyond 10 or 12 thousand miles before the first valve check/service. It will almost certainly need adjustment by then but, if not, be smart and do not wait until 20-24,000!

Here's my outline if pushing it to save money:
Wait until 10-12,000 miles for the first valve service. If they need adjustment and clearances were not dangerously tight, then adjust all to the loose end of spec and check again at the interval we have established. If they need adjustment and WERE dangerously tight, adjust to the loose end of spec and check again a couple thousand miles sooner next time. On the chance that they DON'T need adjustment (not likely by the time you break 10,000 miles), you will probably need it much sooner rather than later, so I wouldn't break 8,500 miles without an adjustment.

I got my first check done before 9K and then stupidly skipped the next one (didn't have the money). By the time I got what should have been my third one, one of my exhaust valves was dangerously tight. I only hope it didn't do any damage!

Edit: Oops. My glasses are dirty. "2003" looked like "2008"
Ignore my advice!

[Alex]

His pregen is a little more aggressive on recommended intervals, with the first at 600 miles, then at every 6k afterwards if I remember correctly. If it's possible that the first owner skipped that first service and the valves have never been looked at, it may be worth it to confirm (by actually checking the valve clearance now).

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by jgcable

What are the symptoms of a bike that needs a valve adjustment?

What are the symptoms of a bike that needs a carb sync?

1. odometer tells you when its time

2. fluctuating idle

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by Alex

His pregen is a little more aggressive on recommended intervals, with the first at 600 miles, then at every 6k afterwards if I remember correctly. If it's possible that the first owner skipped that first service and the valves have never been looked at, it may be worth it to confirm (by actually checking the valve clearance now).

Oops. I know the service intervals for both but my glasses were dirty. "2003" looked like "2008."

[PHMCS]

If you don't know when the valves were last adjusted, its time for a check/adjustment.

symptoms for either issue include erratic idle, poor throttle response, engine speed racing or hunting after a quick rev, or stalling at lower rpm.

I generally make sure the carbs are synced anytime the tank is off, as once you have a gauge - either purchased or homemade, its a sub 5 minute check and gives the ease of mind of knowing everything is just right.

[LNasty]

I know I am probably going to get an ear full, but I just hit 14k on my 2012 and still have not taken it in for first adjustment. Would do myself but it is a little past my expertise. I depend on my bike to commute to work, so if I take it apart and screw something up, I no worky. Kawi dealer told me to wait til about 15k till bringing it in for first one, says that it is a waste of money to come in any sooner than that unless it was making bad noise.

[DaBlue1]

Originally Posted by jgcable

What are the symptoms of a bike that needs a valve adjustment?

What are the symptoms of a bike that needs a carb sync?

If the idle hangs, or is hunting, is a symptom. You may have idle mixture or valve adjustment troubles.
Poor idle is a give-away of valves being out of adjustment.
Poor throttle response is a sign you may need a carb sync.
If you don't know when the last valve adjustment was done, you should have one done.

[jgcable]

Originally Posted by DaBlue1

If the idle hangs, or is hunting, is a symptom. You may have idle mixture or valve adjustment troubles.
Poor idle is a give-away of valves being out of adjustment.
Poor throttle response is a sign you may need a carb sync.
If you don't know when the last valve adjustment was done, you should have one done.

My bike does the following...

Poor idle is a give-away of valves being out of adjustment.
My idle is very steady with no missing or hesitation of any kind. The problem is the idle will sit at 1500, 1800, 2000 rpms and sometimes it just drops below 1000 rpms and stalls. Sometimes it drops to 1000 rpms and doesn't stall and picks itself up to 1800 rpms on its own. If I blip the throttle right before it stalls it will generally sit at around 1800 rpms very steady.




Poor throttle response is a sign you may need a carb sync.
Throttle response is excellent. Crisp with no issues at all. I checked the carbs yesterday and they were sync'd perfectly.

[xorbe]

Yeah my used bike needed full choke and idled terrible until I did the valve adjustments at 7K miles.

[Country Joe]

I just finished adjusting the valves and changed the coolant on my son's 2006 Ninja. We bought it with 18,200 miles, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that they have probably never been checked before. All the clearances were below the minimums. I really hope there are no burnt valves on this bike. I hope to get it fired up tomorrow and see how well it runs.

Joe

[jgcable]

Where can I get the feeler gauge to adjust the valves? Do I need any replacement gaskets when doing it? I need to be totally prepared before I tear it apart.

[salcuta88]

Originally Posted by Country Joe

I just finished adjusting the valves and changed the coolant on my son's 2006 Ninja. We bought it with 18,200 miles, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that they have probably never been checked before. All the clearances were below the minimums. I really hope there are no burnt valves on this bike. I hope to get it fired up tomorrow and see how well it runs.

Joe

How hard is it to adjust the valves?

[Country Joe]

If you don't have a service manual, this link will give you all the guidance you will need. http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_..._the_valves%3F As far as where to get feeler gauges, any auto parts store will have them as well as Sears, Lowes, Fastenal or your nearest industrial supply house. Don't buy the bent tip feeler gauges that are sold as tappet gauges or some such thing, most of those do not have the thinner sizes you need to adjust the valves on a 250 Ninja. You shouldn't need any gaskets unless your Ninja has a ton of miles. Just be patient and take your time, there is not a lot of room in the top of the head if your hands are large. I say be patient because the adjuster screw will want to tighten down when you tighten up the locknut. just observe what is happening and make a correction, I found that I had to set the clearance looser than I wanted then it would tighten up as the locknut was tightened. I think I will be buying the Kawasaki valve adjustment tool before I do the valves again. I took the radiator entirely out, just because I wanted to wash it out to remove the mud and bugs.

Joe

[LNasty]

I am taking my bike in tomorrow morning for its first adjustment at 14k. Going to cost a lot, hopefully I can learn enough to do it my self next time. Will see how she runs when I get her back. I think they might be a little tight due to having to full choke it and hit starter for about 6-10 seconds before she fires up, and thats with it being 95 degrees out.

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by Country Joe

If you don't have a service manual, this link will give you all the guidance you will need. http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_..._the_valves%3F As far as where to get feeler gauges, any auto parts store will have them as well as Sears, Lowes, Fastenal or your nearest industrial supply house. Don't buy the bent tip feeler gauges that are sold as tappet gauges or some such thing, most of those do not have the thinner sizes you need to adjust the valves on a 250 Ninja. You shouldn't need any gaskets unless your Ninja has a ton of miles. Just be patient and take your time, there is not a lot of room in the top of the head if your hands are large. I say be patient because the adjuster screw will want to tighten down when you tighten up the locknut. just observe what is happening and make a correction, I found that I had to set the clearance looser than I wanted then it would tighten up as the locknut was tightened. I think I will be buying the Kawasaki valve adjustment tool before I do the valves again. I took the radiator entirely out, just because I wanted to wash it out to remove the mud and bugs.

Joe

Well, his is a 2011, which is notably harder.

[Country Joe]

Ahhh..... I missed that little detail

[xorbe]

Originally Posted by Country Joe

Ahhh..... I missed that little detail

Well he did ask in the pre-gen forum!

[Country Joe]

Well, yeah, I was thinking that too.....

[Country Joe]

Got the Ninja fired up tonight, it sounds pretty good with the Muzzy system on it, if not a little loud. Going to sync the carbs in the morning and put the rest of the plastic back on it. I have a feeling that the jetting may need some work, but that remains to be determined.

Joe