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Old June 20th, 2021, 06:59 PM   #1
JustMississippi
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Can’t get rear wheel off

Hey all,

I’ve been a lurker for about 3 years - always knew I’d end up with a Ninja 250 as my first bike! Anyway, I’ll post an introduction at some point; however, have a big problem. I can’t get the rear wheel off the bike. I tried everything except a blowtorch or drilling out the giant screw holding the rear wheel on the bike. Am I missing something? Is it torqued down more than the front wheel? Maybe there’s Loctite or something on it?

Previous owner put 4,200 miles on it and the original tires are still on it so I really need to get the wheel off to put a new tire on there. Anyway, thanks in advance for any tips or help at all.
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Old June 21st, 2021, 05:57 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustMississippi View Post
Hey all,

I’ve been a lurker for about 3 years - always knew I’d end up with a Ninja 250 as my first bike! Anyway, I’ll post an introduction at some point; however, have a big problem. I can’t get the rear wheel off the bike. I tried everything except a blowtorch or drilling out the giant screw holding the rear wheel on the bike. Am I missing something? Is it torqued down more than the front wheel? Maybe there’s Loctite or something on it?

Previous owner put 4,200 miles on it and the original tires are still on it so I really need to get the wheel off to put a new tire on there. Anyway, thanks in advance for any tips or help at all.
It could be over-torqued or possibly stripped.

You will need the proper tools.

Here's some info - https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Removi...the_rear_wheel

Axle nut loosening technique

"This does not have to be a 2-man job. You need a fair amount of force on the castle nut side and just a little bit on the other side to keep the axle from spinning (not always necessary - it sometimes stays put.) Straddle the bike, standing facing the rear. Use a breaker bar/ratchet/wrench (17mm socket) against the ground on the right (brake) side of the axle to keep it from turning. Position your other breaker bar (24mm or 15/16" socket) pointing toward the front of the bike on the castle nut (left/chain) side. Push down on it with your right hand, which will loosen it (counterclockwise). Let gravity and your body weight help apply the turning force. Since you are straddling the bike, it should be difficult to knock it over. You may want to rest your left shoulder on the pillion seat as you do this. And no, you don't have to have long legs. This is short-person certified. "

Torque specs page - https://faq.ninja250.org/torque/ex250f/

Front axle nut - 88 Nm/65 ft/lbs

Rear axle nut - 110 Nm/81 ft/lbs
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Old June 21st, 2021, 06:00 AM   #3
JustMississippi
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Thanks!

I should have specified that I live on that website now that I've got one of these bikes but couldn't post to their forums on mobile for some reason. Anyway, I believe that the issue is over-torquing by factory/previous owner.
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Old June 21st, 2021, 08:48 AM   #4
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The problem with cotter pins is that the nut only have N number of notches. If the nut ends in a position when the hole in the axle does not align with one of the notches when tightened to the proper torque some people aim for the next notch and end up up over torquing it. The thread is pretty coarse so its very easy to do. I usually back off to the previous notch. The pin will hold the nut in place, it will not get lose.
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Old June 21st, 2021, 09:36 AM   #5
JustMississippi
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I just went outside to try and give this another go and realized the rear wheel doesn't have a cotter pin in it. The cotter nut () is so over torqued it is covering the hole where the cotter pin should have went. I don't want to come off as a pyromaniac but is the only option left to torch it?
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Old June 21st, 2021, 09:52 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustMississippi View Post
I just went outside to try and give this another go and realized the rear wheel doesn't have a cotter pin in it. The cotter nut () is so over torqued it is covering the hole where the cotter pin should have went. I don't want to come off as a pyromaniac but is the only option left to torch it?
Penetrating lubricant would be my first choice. Have you tried that option yet ? Repetitive application of a heat gun on the nut with penetrating lube would be the next step.
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Old June 21st, 2021, 11:36 AM   #7
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Borrow an impact or grind off the axle nut. I wouldn't reuse the nut or bolt anyway.
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Old June 21st, 2021, 02:48 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustMississippi View Post
I just went outside to try and give this another go and realized the rear wheel doesn't have a cotter pin in it. The cotter nut () is so over torqued it is covering the hole where the cotter pin should have went. I don't want to come off as a pyromaniac but is the only option left to torch it?
A notch in the nut not lining up with a hole in the axle has nothing to do with whether or not it's overtightened. It just means whoever put it on didn't line up a notch with one of the two cross drilled holes.
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Old June 22nd, 2021, 05:28 AM   #9
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How long are the bars you're using to break the nut from the axle? Are you really putting the 80 ft/lb that that nuts take to come out?

The first time I tried that, I didn't have the right tools. Then I bought a long breaker bar and everything went better.
And, of course, you'll need a large torque wrench to put it back in place.
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Old June 22nd, 2021, 06:12 AM   #10
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As others have stated, I don't think there is a major problem. No reason to cut or torch the nut - it's just !#$%! tight.

You may need more that a normal 3/8" drive ratchet and a combination wrench to remove and replace it, but nothing out of the ordinary.

1/2" drive ratchet and breaker bar should do it. 1/2" torque wrench set to 81 Ft/Lbs for installation.
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Old June 22nd, 2021, 05:39 PM   #11
JustMississippi
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Thanks, guys - just needed the right tools for the job!

I now have new tires and am having trouble with the speedometer since reinstalling the front tire. I cannot figure out where to put the nubs on the speedometer in relation to the nubs on the forks. I put the nubs from the speedo in between the nubs on the fork and everything went back together smooth - except now I have no idea how fast I'm going.

Maybe I should make a new post - Help?

(Edit: I followed this guide as best as I could understand it - https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Reinst...he_front_wheel)
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Old June 22nd, 2021, 05:54 PM   #12
Ceeloo Yello
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This is the post that will help you:

https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Reinst...he_front_wheel
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Old June 22nd, 2021, 05:55 PM   #13
JustMississippi
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Right, I did mention in my edit that I had reviewed that but it's not very clear where the nubs are supposed to line up.
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Old June 23rd, 2021, 10:35 AM   #14
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Take it apart again, including removing the cable from the speedo hub. Look a the wheel hub. You'll see the two cut-outs. Look closely at the speedo hub. You'll see two raised spots that match the cutouts. They're shallow and hard to see, but they're there. The cutouts and the raised spots have to be aligned.

After you re-install the wheel, install the cable. The slot in the cable end slides onto a prong in the speedo hub. Turning the wheel turns the prong. Gently push the cable into the hole and turn the wheel. You'll see and feel it when it aligns correctly.
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