Headlight Adjustment Question

Finder · August 7th, 2009, 12:27 AM

Has anyone adjusted their headlight vertically with all the fairings still attached? I'm able to reach up from under nose, and I'm able to locate the adjustment knob, but I'm finding it extremely difficult to rotate. Large arms and hands don't exactly help either.

Is that adjustment screw suppose to be tight? Which way do you rotate to move the beam down? Any help would be most appreciated!

Cheers!

kkim · August 7th, 2009, 12:33 AM

there have been people here that have adjusted the headlight w/o taking the fairings off. yes, small hands help.... no kids or girlfriend to help?

point the bike towards garage wall, put it up on a rear stand and turn the knob... you can see which way does what by watching the light on the wall. I mark the cutoff line w/ some masking tape on the wall so I have some sort of reference.

I don't remember mine being hard to turn.

Finder · August 7th, 2009, 12:37 AM

I'll have to try it again tomorrow, maybe with a thin grippy work glove on. It was definitely TIGHT when I tried it a few hours ago.

kkim · August 7th, 2009, 01:07 AM

did you try turning it either way?

Finder · August 7th, 2009, 01:16 AM

Yes. Didn't budge either way.

But then again, I may have been a little out of it after putting on the Area P, shimming the needles, and running around after finding what was suppose to be M4 washers were actually M6. Mislabeled parts suck.

I'll give it another shot tomorrow. If it doesn't work, the nose will be coming off for some troubleshooting.

kkim · August 7th, 2009, 01:36 AM

if you have the lower fairings off, I would say you have a good chance to reach in and grab the adjustment knob... no need to take the nose fairing off. hard to imagine what can be wrong with the adjuster... i think it's just a screw that threads into the headlight bracket assembly to move it up or down.

gl... let us know what you find.

Finder · August 9th, 2009, 10:17 AM

Tried it again and it was just as bad. I'm going to pull the nose when I have a bit of time and see exactly what's binding.

Hope a little lubricant is all it needs.

Sound Wave · August 9th, 2009, 11:27 AM

not sure why yours is so hard to turn. without taking the fairings off, i was able to just reach up from underneath and turn it with my bare hand. then again, i guess i am kind of a manly man.

unless you plan on doing something else while you have it apart, taking the fairings off just to adjust the headlight seems a pain.

good luck.

CZroe · October 17th, 2009, 09:13 AM

My headlight is blown. Can I just take all the fairings off and pop in a new one or will I need to adjust and aim them too?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sound Wave

not sure why yours is so hard to turn. without taking the fairings off, i was able to just reach up from underneath and turn it with my bare hand. then again, i guess i am kind of a manly man.

unless you plan on doing something else while you have it apart, taking the fairings off just to adjust the headlight seems a pain.

good luck.

Heck, consider it a pain evenr for outright replacement. I don't have to take a bumper off to change a car's headlight.

noche_caliente · October 17th, 2009, 09:55 AM

I would try changing it without taking them off first - just point it at a wall and use a piece of tape or something to mark the cut-off. Don't move the bike while you are swapping the bulbs. Once you have the new bulb in, fire her up and check to see if it's in the same place - if not, then you'll know you have to adjust. If all else fails, you can then take off the plastics. It's really not all that bad, but not all that fun either...

Finder · October 17th, 2009, 10:10 AM

The bulbs are standardized as to where the filament sits. You should not have to readjust the aim. Having said that, I would still check aim regardless.

As for the hard to turn adjustment screw, it was hard to turn because it was backed in to the extreme. Once I turned it enough times to get the aim roughly leveled, the adjustment know was quite easy to move.

dwolson2 · September 27th, 2011, 08:25 PM

just got done, clock wise is up, CCW is down. Mine was really low. We will see in the AM if its good to go

CZroe · September 29th, 2011, 06:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by noche_caliente

I would try changing it without taking them off first - just point it at a wall and use a piece of tape or something to mark the cut-off. Don't move the bike while you are swapping the bulbs. Once you have the new bulb in, fire her up and check to see if it's in the same place - if not, then you'll know you have to adjust. If all else fails, you can then take off the plastics. It's really not all that bad, but not all that fun either...

Kinda hard to mark the cut-off point of the light beam when the light is blown and there is no beam.

I'm not sure, but I imagine that the high beam and low beam could aim a bit differently between bulbs.

NevadaWolf · April 22nd, 2015, 07:43 PM

Just bumping this thread to say thanks. My lights were way low after fiddling with them and now, right as rain!

95PGTTech · July 20th, 2015, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CZroe

Heck, consider it a pain evenr for outright replacement. I don't have to take a bumper off to change a car's headlight.

Found this thread looking to adjust my headlight. There are PLENTY of vehicles that need to have front bumpers removed to change headlights, fog lights, turn signals, etc. Manufacturers design vehicles to be quickly and easily assembled, they do not care at all about how easy they are to service.

CZroe · July 22nd, 2015, 06:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 95PGTTech

Found this thread looking to adjust my headlight. There are PLENTY of vehicles that need to have front bumpers removed to change headlights, fog lights, turn signals, etc. Manufacturers design vehicles to be quickly and easily assembled, they do not care at all about how easy they are to service.

Good thing you aren't legally required to replace a blown fog light in order to drive (indeed: they are usually options). Many states allow hand signals when the blinkers go. It makes sense that they wouldn't be worried about user access with Xenon or LED, but I have yet to see one that requires disassembly for the standard headlights. Worst I've seen was having to remove a bar that holds in the battery.

FWIW, I replaced my 2011 Corolla's headlight yesterday.

manumid · November 9th, 2016, 10:50 AM

Hi, I have a question (sorry for revive this old thread!).

Is there a way to adjust the high beam aim and low beam aim INDEPENDENTLY?

I've switched my stock bulbs to LED CREE ones, and I saw that the aim of the high and low beams are very close one each other, so I have to raise ONLY the high beam, or low ONLY the low beam.

I've found a screw behind the headlight (just below the vertical adjustment knob), but I am not sure of its purpose (I've turned it and I see no difference).

Thank you!

Alex · December 4th, 2016, 01:45 PM

I thought that knob affected them both together.

October 17th, 2009, 09:55 AM	#10
noche_caliente ninjette.org certified postwhore Name: Kim Location: mundo de ensueño Join Date: Nov 2008 Motorcycle(s): '08 250 Posts: A lot.	I would try changing it without taking them off first - just point it at a wall and use a piece of tape or something to mark the cut-off. Don't move the bike while you are swapping the bulbs. Once you have the new bulb in, fire her up and check to see if it's in the same place - if not, then you'll know you have to adjust. If all else fails, you can then take off the plastics. It's really not all that bad, but not all that fun either... __________________________________________________ Progrip tank pad, blue rim stripes, blue Pazzos, Roaring Toyz lowering kit, Puig DB in dark smoke, Cortech sport tail, super mini tank, and saddlebags, OES swingarm spools and Intuitive frame sliders

April 22nd, 2015, 07:43 PM	#14
NevadaWolf Certified looney toon Name: Teri Location: 39°52'40.7"N 118°23'53.8"W (Northern NV) Join Date: Jun 2012 Motorcycle(s): 2012 Ninja 250, 102k+ miles -- 2014 CB500X, 42k+ miles Posts: A lot. Blog Entries: 16 MOTM Jul '13, Jul '14	Just bumping this thread to say thanks. My lights were way low after fiddling with them and now, right as rain! __________________________________________________ <-- Linky Hey Unregistered! The code [you] shows the username currently logged in. IBA # 56020 AMA # 521481 Fun Rides! ][ My Videos ][ My Gear Hold yourself to the same rules you expect others to follow.

December 4th, 2016, 01:45 PM	#18
Alex ninjette.org dude Name: 1 guess :-) Location: SF Bay Area Join Date: Jun 2008 Motorcycle(s): '13 Ninja 300 (white, the fastest color!), '13 R1200RT, '14 CRF250L, '12 TT-R125LE Posts: Too much. Blog Entries: 7	I thought that knob affected them both together. __________________________________________________ Montgomery Street Motorcycle Club / cal24.com / crf250l.org / ninjette.org ninjette.org Terms of Service Shopping for motorcycle parts or equipment? Come here first. The friendliest Ninja 250R/300/400 forum on the internet! (especially Unregistered)

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August 7th, 2009, 12:33 AM	#2
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	there have been people here that have adjusted the headlight w/o taking the fairings off. yes, small hands help.... no kids or girlfriend to help? point the bike towards garage wall, put it up on a rear stand and turn the knob... you can see which way does what by watching the light on the wall. I mark the cutoff line w/ some masking tape on the wall so I have some sort of reference. I don't remember mine being hard to turn.

August 7th, 2009, 12:37 AM	#3
Finder ninjette.org member Name: Mr. Location: SF Bay Area, California Join Date: Jul 2009 Motorcycle(s): F650GS Dakar, FJR1300, Ninja 250R Posts: 47	I'll have to try it again tomorrow, maybe with a thin grippy work glove on. It was definitely TIGHT when I tried it a few hours ago.

August 7th, 2009, 01:07 AM	#4
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	did you try turning it either way?

August 7th, 2009, 01:16 AM	#5
Finder ninjette.org member Name: Mr. Location: SF Bay Area, California Join Date: Jul 2009 Motorcycle(s): F650GS Dakar, FJR1300, Ninja 250R Posts: 47	Yes. Didn't budge either way. But then again, I may have been a little out of it after putting on the Area P, shimming the needles, and running around after finding what was suppose to be M4 washers were actually M6. Mislabeled parts suck. I'll give it another shot tomorrow. If it doesn't work, the nose will be coming off for some troubleshooting.

August 7th, 2009, 01:36 AM	#6
kkim Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: Too much.	if you have the lower fairings off, I would say you have a good chance to reach in and grab the adjustment knob... no need to take the nose fairing off. hard to imagine what can be wrong with the adjuster... i think it's just a screw that threads into the headlight bracket assembly to move it up or down. gl... let us know what you find.

August 9th, 2009, 10:17 AM	#7
Finder ninjette.org member Name: Mr. Location: SF Bay Area, California Join Date: Jul 2009 Motorcycle(s): F650GS Dakar, FJR1300, Ninja 250R Posts: 47	Tried it again and it was just as bad. I'm going to pull the nose when I have a bit of time and see exactly what's binding. Hope a little lubricant is all it needs.

August 9th, 2009, 11:27 AM	#8
Sound Wave Ramen Rider Name: Gary Location: Honolulu, Hawaii Join Date: Jan 2009 Motorcycle(s): 2015 BMW R1200R, 08 Honda VFR800A (sold), 09 Ninja 250R (sold) Posts: A lot.	not sure why yours is so hard to turn. without taking the fairings off, i was able to just reach up from underneath and turn it with my bare hand. then again, i guess i am kind of a manly man. unless you plan on doing something else while you have it apart, taking the fairings off just to adjust the headlight seems a pain. good luck.

October 17th, 2009, 10:10 AM	#11
Finder ninjette.org member Name: Mr. Location: SF Bay Area, California Join Date: Jul 2009 Motorcycle(s): F650GS Dakar, FJR1300, Ninja 250R Posts: 47	The bulbs are standardized as to where the filament sits. You should not have to readjust the aim. Having said that, I would still check aim regardless. As for the hard to turn adjustment screw, it was hard to turn because it was backed in to the extreme. Once I turned it enough times to get the aim roughly leveled, the adjustment know was quite easy to move.

September 27th, 2011, 08:25 PM	#12
dwolson2 ninjette.org member Name: Derrick Location: Camarillo Join Date: Aug 2011 Motorcycle(s): Ninja 250R Posts: 18	just got done, clock wise is up, CCW is down. Mine was really low. We will see in the AM if its good to go

November 9th, 2016, 10:50 AM	#17
manumid ninjette.org member Name: Manuel Location: Argentina Join Date: Dec 2015 Motorcycle(s): Kawasaki Ninja 250r Posts: 13	Hi, I have a question (sorry for revive this old thread!). Is there a way to adjust the high beam aim and low beam aim INDEPENDENTLY? I've switched my stock bulbs to LED CREE ones, and I saw that the aim of the high and low beams are very close one each other, so I have to raise ONLY the high beam, or low ONLY the low beam. I've found a screw behind the headlight (just below the vertical adjustment knob), but I am not sure of its purpose (I've turned it and I see no difference). Thank you!