December 5th, 2011, 12:22 PM | #1 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Andy
Location: Indianapolis
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Carb tuning help (yes, I've searched)
My bike is still acting up after all of the tinkering I have done. After installing a pod filter, I went through and did all of the steps in tuning carbs that I thought were necessary. I changed the jets, shimmed the needles, adjusted the idle mixture screws, adjusted the idle with that knob on a cord thing, and synced the carbs (so I think).
With all of these things being done, my bike still has some power loss at the low RPMs (idle to >3000). Here are my carb settings: YEAR:2008 INTAKE MODIFICATIONS: K&N pod filter EXHAUST MODIFICATIONS: DanMoto slip on JET KIT OR STOCK? Jet kit BRAND OF JET KIT? DynoJet MAIN JET:110 NEEDLE AND CLIP POSITION: 4th MIXTURE SCREW SETTINGS: ~2.5-2.75 ELEVATION: 800ft What do you guys think could be the cause of my loss of power? |
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December 5th, 2011, 12:33 PM | #3 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Andy
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I have. What would you infer from that chart? Because I'm still clueless...
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December 5th, 2011, 12:41 PM | #4 |
wat
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dont get me wrong im a total noob when it comes to carb tuning... is the low power spot at any throttle position? are you testing this on a dyno or butt-dyno? 3k is pretty low... someone once mentioned the higher flow you optimize for, the more you lose at low-flow... maybe this is what you are seeing? you said yoou had pod filters. does that mean you removed the venturies or are they larger pods with venturies built in?
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December 5th, 2011, 12:57 PM | #5 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Andy
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I notice the power loss when accelerating from a stop. There is a distinct sputter at loss RPMs, but I don't know the difference between running too rich/lean...
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December 5th, 2011, 01:06 PM | #6 |
Smoker
Name: Bob
Location: SoCal
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Define "power loss" as you see it. FYI - the 250 has zero "power" in that RPM range. Also, saying you have a jet kit and listing the number for your main jet are meaningless unless you provide the brand name of the kit.
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December 5th, 2011, 01:12 PM | #7 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Andy
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Loss of power means that there is a very significant hesitation in that RPM range. I have to use more clutch to get the bike moving. As far as my jets, I had a DynoJet stage two kit, but it didn't have the right mains, so I replaced the mains with Keihin jets.
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December 5th, 2011, 01:12 PM | #8 |
ninjette.org member
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December 5th, 2011, 01:13 PM | #9 |
ninjette.org member
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Also helps to know what air temps we are talking about.
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December 5th, 2011, 01:25 PM | #10 |
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if it's sputtering at low RPM's and you don't know if it's rich or lean, do an experiment. adjust it 1/4 turn out and test it again by getting it fully warmed up and going for a cruise at a low RPM in 5th or 6th, and see how it feels by just keeping a steady speed with a small throttle opening. if it surges, it's lean. If it bogs, it's rich. repeat this until you have a nice smooth low rpm cruise. only diagnose the idle mix when the bike is fully warmed up.
Jetting is trial and error. make sure to only change one variable at a time and go with what works best. Without riding it and tinkering with it, none of us can really give a definite answer. however, using the jetting database to find someone with a similar setup and elevation as you, 2.75 turns out might be a good place to start at. |
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December 5th, 2011, 01:57 PM | #11 |
CVMA #74 WSMC #750
Name: Nemesis
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I don't have Dynojet needles in mine but know of others who do and I believe 110 is way too high.
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December 5th, 2011, 02:23 PM | #12 |
Blind 250 Loving Whore
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December 5th, 2011, 02:29 PM | #13 | |
ninjette.org sage
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Quote:
Roughly 50F Hmmm… but would the main jet even have anything to do with this issue? |
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December 5th, 2011, 02:53 PM | #14 |
Blind 250 Loving Whore
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I'm not sure just how rich it's making it. Normally I wouldn't think so, but if it's a lot bigger than you need making it that rich
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December 5th, 2011, 04:38 PM | #15 |
ninjette.org member
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pull those washers out... you don't need them with a jet kit, that's why the needle has a e clip. so you can adjust it.
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December 5th, 2011, 04:44 PM | #16 |
ninjette.org member
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nvm apparently it's to weight the needle? never heard of that with any of my offroad stuff. but anyways, have you checked out this thread? http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showt...eedle+position
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December 5th, 2011, 04:45 PM | #17 | |
ninjette.org guru
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Quote:
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December 5th, 2011, 04:50 PM | #18 |
ninjette.org member
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okay, didn't sound right to me. Though i haven't messed with any of the carb settings on my 250 yet. had multiple 4 wheelers and dirtbikes and none of them had to have weighted needles.
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December 6th, 2011, 05:50 PM | #19 |
ninjette.org sage
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I didn't mention this earlier, but I tried running the needle in the third position before trying the 4th position...
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December 6th, 2011, 06:51 PM | #20 |
ninjette.org member
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personally i think without having a full system your'e going to have problems. i'm still confused as to why you went with a stage 2 dynojet kit with only pod filters. Do you still have the factory pilot jet installed?
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December 6th, 2011, 09:52 PM | #21 |
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only difference between the stages is the range of the jets that come in the kits.
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December 7th, 2011, 02:58 PM | #22 |
ninjette.org sage
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Dynojet 110s!?! That's huge. I run 106s haha, or maybe they're 108s O.o
Anywho, you removed the airbox I'm assuming, that's why you're gutless below 3k. Try 106 jets or even 104s, clip in the 3rd position. Personally I have a clip with 2 washers on top and then another clip for a little more weight and easy washer storage but you can do whatever. If the low end still feels gutless put a washer under the clip leaving it in the 3rd position or move the clip itself down a notch. If you put a washer under the clip it's like moving it half a notch |
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December 7th, 2011, 03:01 PM | #23 | |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Andy
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Quote:
Its probably worth noting that I plan on purchasing and installing an full exhaust before next season… should I just wait till then and see how the bike runs then? |
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December 7th, 2011, 03:04 PM | #24 | |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Andy
Location: Indianapolis
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Quote:
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December 7th, 2011, 03:22 PM | #25 |
ninjette.org sage
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December 7th, 2011, 03:44 PM | #26 |
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for all intents and purposes, that is correct, but seriously how does that thing ride at WOT above 10k?? DJ 110's are GIGANTIC! I've seen guys running OEM 110's, and those are like 3 sizes smaller than DJ110's
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December 7th, 2011, 03:48 PM | #27 |
ninjette.org guru
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What brand are your jets? I'm so lost
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December 7th, 2011, 04:03 PM | #28 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Andy
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Now I'm lost too… I have KEIHIN 110s. I have the DJ needles in and KEIHIN jets. But you guys are telling me that 110s from different brands may be different sizes???
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December 7th, 2011, 04:07 PM | #29 |
ninjette.org guru
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Yes. So a Keihin #110 is equal to a Dynojet #106. So for your main jet size that should be fine. Could you drop one size? Perhaps, but I don't think that's your problem. Now when you say you are losing power down low, are you cruising at low rpms and then going WOT? You should really tune your top end, then middle then low for best results.
The main jet doesn't really do anything until you have the throttle open 1/8th or more. Before then it uses the pilot jets which are changing with the idle mixture screw on the carb. |
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December 7th, 2011, 04:42 PM | #30 | |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Andy
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Quote:
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December 7th, 2011, 04:52 PM | #31 | |
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Quote:
Here's a reference for the Jet sizes: http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Dynojet...zes_conversion |
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December 7th, 2011, 04:56 PM | #32 |
ninjette.org guru
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I'm rarely under 3k RPMs, but you could try lowering the needle to lean it out a bit.
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December 7th, 2011, 05:31 PM | #33 |
ninjette.org sage
Name: Andy
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Yeah I started at clip position 3, rode it, changed to 4, then never did anything else… I'm gonna try position two and see how that works.
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December 7th, 2011, 08:53 PM | #34 | |
ninjette.org sage
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Quote:
Another thing before you jump into the needles, a quick blip of the throttle at idle can usually help tell you if you got the idle mix right or not. If you blip it and it the needle hangs above idle on the tach and then falls to idle you're lean, and if it sinks like a rock and falls below idle and then back up it's rich. Also if the sync is off it could cause issues |
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December 8th, 2011, 04:32 PM | #36 |
ninjette.org sage
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April 5th, 2012, 03:02 PM | #37 |
ninjette.org member
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You loose low range because you don't have the airbox to create pressure.
I know this is a old post just thought I'd inform you why |
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April 5th, 2012, 03:45 PM | #38 |
wat
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can you explain that please? why? is it the lack of venturis? if you had straight venturis with no filters, would you still get a low-end loss? seems to me like its more likely caused by not changing the pilot system.
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April 6th, 2012, 04:52 AM | #39 |
ninjette.org member
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changing the pilots will help! alot of people upgrade from the 38 to the 40. but youll still get a little loss from the airbox. I dont have an exact reason why all i know is something to do with the pressure of the airbox. Ill get back to you on that.
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