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Old August 19th, 2016, 08:46 PM   #1
Burphel
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Build Thread: Ninja 300 Race Bike

Background:

Hi all, new member. I've been riding and doing my own maintenance stuff for about 8 years now and track days for 3. Earlier this summer, I decided it was time to do the racing thing. But I also decided that the SV650 I'd been riding was just a bit more bike than I needed and wanted. First off, I'm not that damn fast anyway. Second, I work as a travel nurse and a lighter, more compact bike would make logistics far easier. Also, I'm essentially an independent contractor, so lower-energy crashes are a substantial bonus. I've done a pair of track days on rental Ninjas from Premium Rush and had a blast, so I'm not completely jumping in blind going to the new platform.

After doing some posts, I found a guy on a local forum who was interested in a trade. He kinda flips insurance totaled bikes as a hobby, but had finished up a Ninja 300 only to find that his Bill of Sale on the frame wasn't notarized and the State wouldn't let him get it titled/registered without it. So, he's got a near-mint Ninjette that would require a fair amount of work to get on the street.

At the same time, he'd also just picked up an SV for commuting/touring the same year/color as my track bike. So the idea of getting a track bike that's almost the same as his street bike tickled him. My SV had been involved in some high-velocity gardening, so we settled on an even trade.

So, here she is: a new-to-me and dang near new to the world 2013 non-ABS Ninja 300.



My plan to start with is to put the old adage that says "suspension first" to the test. I'm a big guy, so trying to do track stuff on stock suspension would be miserable anyway. My original plan was to do springs/emulators and a double-clicker shock. But I've since seen a deal on SBTG for Ohlins NIX cartridges and rear for not much more than I'd expected to pay. So I may go that route. Next up will be SS brake lines and new pads/rotor. Somewhere before my first trackday, a new set of tires will be in order. It's wearing IRC RoadWinners right now. Exhaust/Filter/Tuner/Dyno will wait a few months.

But first, I figure I need to get all the plastic and unnecessary parts off and eBay as much of it as I can. I figure while I'm working on the bike, I'll probably run with a belly pan and number plate and not bother with bodywork until I'm closer to having things sorted out.

My goal for now is to have the suspension and tires on and the bodywork off, and coolant flushed for a track day in September. The local kart track has a practice/race in October, and I'd like to have the brakes and safety wiring done for that. Then over the winter work on fine tuning, intake/exhaust, and bodywork. And ready for semi-serious racing with OMRRA/WMRRA in the spring.
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Old August 19th, 2016, 09:06 PM   #2
Burphel
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Project day 1 - August 17

Got the bike back to my storage locker/garage and started pulling bodywork. For whatever reason, starting at the tail seemed easiest, so that's what I did first.

Windscreen removed (somehow I thought I needed to do this first)
Rear fender and blinkers removed
Flasher module removed
Tail light bulb and wiring removed
(Leaving rear cowl plastics, passenger seat, and taillight housing on for the moment)
Tool kit tray removed
Rear brake switch removed
Passenger pegs removed
(Passenger peg hangers left on for lifting bike until shock swapped)
Mid-side panels removed
Peg feelers removed

All in all, I'm guessing 5lbs in the Bin of Suck. I should probably get a cheap fishing scale for fun. While unloading, discovered the right fork seal has a leak and it's gooped the brake. I already planned on a fork rebuild, so not a huge deal. I'll have to bump up pad replacement on the priority list. No point cleaning off OEM pads IMO. Need to get 10mm spools for rear stand and a pin front lift soonish.

It got hot. So I stopped.

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Old August 21st, 2016, 02:25 AM   #3
Burphel
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Project Day 2 - Aug 20th

Another hot day (pushing 100), but I got a good hour or two of work in.
  • Entire front fairing removed.
  • Headlights, blinkers, horn removed. Supersport rules look like I need to keep the wiring harness intact, so I'm leaving it for now.
  • Instrument cluster zip-tied to fairing bracket for now. It's actually pretty sturdy there, so I may just replace the zip-ties with safety wire until I'm further down the road enough to spend on an aftermarket bracket. Or maybe I'll just drill a bunch of holes in the stocker and spray it with BBQ paint.
  • The plug for the instrument cluster is slightly cracked. It still fits well enough, but doesn't positively lock in. I may need to do a little JB Welding next time to get the locking tab on better. The bike starts without the cluster plugged in, but I'd hate to lose the tach mid-race.
  • Radiator fan removed. This was a PITA without taking down the radiator.
  • Exhaust heat shield and tip dress-up thingy removed.

So, she's pretty much stripped to her knickers now. Engine still looks pretty and no obvious frame issues. A part of me wanted to go back and pull the tail fairing I'd left on last time for some unknown reason. But the other part of me wanted a pitcher of lemonade and some air conditioning, and that part won. Those will probably go next time so I can list the full plastics set for sale. Also, I should be able to delete the clutch side switchgear since there's nothing for it to control anymore. Looking at where the radiator reservoir is placed makes me shudder. Even filled with Water Wetter, I'd like to see it further inboard. I'll have to relocate or replace that. I'm sure there's a lot of brackets that could be removed or "Drilltanium-ed," but I'll wait until I have race bodywork on-hand for that. I'm thinking the windscreen plus a big number board on the fairing stay should be good enough bodywork for "testing."

The "Bin of Suck" hath overflowed. No idea how much weight has been shed today, but it's plenty.


Last futzed with by Burphel; August 21st, 2016 at 03:42 AM.
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Old August 21st, 2016, 12:23 PM   #4
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Old August 23rd, 2016, 01:32 PM   #5
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Awesome work so far!
I'll look forward to meeting you at the Mac track or PIR :-)
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Old August 27th, 2016, 08:19 PM   #6
Burphel
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Project Day 3: Aug 27th

Limited working time today. I lost my storage keys somehow. I've been meaning to buy a cordless drill though (for swiss-cheesing parts and grinding off tabs, along with assorted screwing/unscrewing). So I stopped by Home Depot and picked one up, along with a cutoff wheel and a combination lock so I can't do that again. Grinding through a hardened steel lock isn't the most efficient way to open one, but it is a great way to work out aggression.
  • Realized I didn't really need actual spools to use the rearstand. Stuck in a pair of bare bolts from the Bin of Suck and popped it up. Must remember to get actual spools before taking the bike to the track.
  • Tail plastics, taillight, back seat and lock removed.
  • Clutch side switchgear removed.
  • Clutch sensor jumpered.
  • Kickstand removed.
  • Kickstand sensor jumpered.
  • Feel like I'm forgetting something.
  • Pulled a few choice parts from the Bin of Suck to start putting on eBay.
Earlier this week:
  • Parts came in to fix the fork seal (got bushings as well, just in case).
  • Forgot to get a length of 1.5" ID PVC for a seal hammer today. Dangit.
  • Found out the Ohlins cartridges I was going to order are on backorder. I should have expected that, but it seriously pisses me off when online stores say something is in stock and it isn't. Why bother having inventory management built into your store if it's wrong? *grr* I also had brake pads and a Pitbull Head stand ordered from the same place. $1000 order. Cancelled the whole thing. I'll spend my money elsewhere.
  • Found a local racer willing to sell a slightly rashed Hot Bodies fairing set for $100.
  • Bid on a Supertrapp universal muffler on eBay for $50. I've always wanted to try one of these, and I just want something other than the stocker to keep tech happy until I can afford a full system and remap.



Got a couple more days off. Coming up soon:
  • Run to the nearest Cycle Gear, pick up fork lift stand, fork oil, smaller coolant reservoir, rivet master link, actual spools, safety wire and pliers.
  • Coolant flush and replace with Water Wetter.
  • Measure coolant drain bolts, rear caliper bolts and order pre-drilled from ProBolt (they have the front and oil bolts listed for the 300, but not these).
  • Fork seal change/full fork rebuild if necessary. Gonna go with straight 15w overfilled a bit and try adding some fender washers or something for extra preload until I can get springs/cartridges/emulators ordered.
  • Going to try to find a local auto shop that's willing to do a cat delete if I promise to forget who did it for me and not run it on the street.
  • Start putting street parts on eBay.
  • Bring a blanket with me to storage and lay out the street fairing bits for an eBay picture.
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Old August 28th, 2016, 06:08 PM   #7
Burphel
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Did a run to Cycle Gear today (about 2hrs away). Picked up some number stickers, safety wire and SW pliers, 90* valve stems, delrin spool/swingarm sliders, and they had EBC HH pads for the Ninja in stock, so I got a set for the front. No rivet master links, and the Pit Bull stand they were selling was overpriced and didn't come with a lift pin or the clevis pin to keep it in place. Grr. So, I'm thinking I'll try doing the fork job lifting the front from the garage beam and just order the damn thing straight from Pit Bull. I also stopped by Home Depot and picked up a couple drill bits. Got to thinking I could try drilling my own stuff now, although it'd be easier with a proper vise. Did a random bolt from the Bin of Suck freehand with it held in a pair of pliers and it didn't turn out bad at all. I'd really like to use some of the fancy aluminum/titanium bits from Pro Bolt, but they ain't cheap. I also installed the spools/swingarm sliders. Primarily a shopping day, though.
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Old August 28th, 2016, 09:37 PM   #8
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I'm about to start working on my bike again... I appreciate the thread

Race body for $100 Score!!!
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Old August 29th, 2016, 04:39 PM   #9
Burphel
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Day 4: Aug 29th

Worked on the bike for about 4hrs today. Not much going on visually, but some major steps. I found out the safety wire I bought is one gauge too small for tech . So I'm using it for practice and if I have time, I might use it to wire up some low-torque things that aren't really required. I also got a message today that my Supertrapp is in the mail.
  • Glycol-based antifreeze flushed (this took the majority of the time).
  • Water wetter in.
  • Drilled drain plugs and cap for safety wire.
  • Drilled the front caliper bolts and the oil cap for safety wire. The first one came out *really* nice for having been drilled freehand.
  • Wired the handgrips in place.

Tomorrow I'm going to try to get the fork rebuild done. If I have time, I'll do the front brake clean up and pad replacement.



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Old August 29th, 2016, 05:00 PM   #10
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Flushing the coolant isn't as easy as I though got would be???
Used to have pdf manuals in the wiki... But it's down, I saw a few online, but I only have my phone so I never try to download then to see how good they are
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Old August 29th, 2016, 05:49 PM   #11
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Go get a spool of .032. It's all I use and IMO, should be the minimum. It's good, thick stuff that's hard to break.
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Old August 29th, 2016, 07:15 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyBravo View Post
Flushing the coolant isn't as easy as I though got would be???
Used to have pdf manuals in the wiki... But it's down, I saw a few online, but I only have my phone so I never try to download then to see how good they are
It's not difficult, just time consuming. Partly because I only had one drip pan and I was being a good Boy Scout and saving all the drainage for proper disposal. So instead of just pouring straight through with gratuitous amounts of water, I did about 3 fill/run/drain cycles with distilled water between the green and pink.

The Youtube version of sticking a garden hose in your radiator spout and squirting diluted fluids all over your lawn is much quicker .

I really do need to get myself a set of owner/service manuals. Ideally in PDF so I can have them on my phone. I found a torque setting list for the 2nd gen 250s that I'm using for the time being. I figure Kawi's not gonna change those too drastically.
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Old August 29th, 2016, 07:20 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RacinNinja View Post
Go get a spool of .032. It's all I use and IMO, should be the minimum. It's good, thick stuff that's hard to break.
Yeah. I got .028 . Fortunately it's a small roll. I figure it's good practice material. Not gonna even bother lacing it through stuff that needs wire for tech. Well, maybe I'll use it to practice the rear caliper. I was looking and I'm not sure how I'm gonna make that work between the semi-recessed bolts and the tiny work space.
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Old August 29th, 2016, 07:22 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burphel View Post
Yeah. I got .028 . Fortunately it's a small roll. I figure it's good practice material. Not gonna even bother lacing it through stuff that needs wire for tech. Well, maybe I'll use it to practice the rear caliper. I was looking and I'm not sure how I'm gonna make that work between the semi-recessed bolts and the tiny work space.
It's good to practice. Practice makes perfect!

What recessed bolts? Take some pics, I'm sure someone has done it before and can guide you.
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Old August 29th, 2016, 07:38 PM   #15
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I know someone that has a set... Just forgot who; remind me tomorrow when I can find more time and I will search for who has a copy

Yea don't pollute
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Old August 30th, 2016, 02:16 PM   #16
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Well, I woke up feeling sick today. So nothing done on the bike. Maybe tomorrow.
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Old August 31st, 2016, 12:07 PM   #17
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Rest up... Get well soon
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Old August 31st, 2016, 01:36 PM   #18
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I am interested in the front fork springs, when you upgrade them...

Nice work so far. I too have had to work out of the storage unit / garage.
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Old September 4th, 2016, 09:18 PM   #19
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So, I got my muffler and a roll of the right safety wire sitting on my dining room table at home. The Supertrapp is used and a universal model, so it's gonna take a little cleanup and creativity to make it work. Also have an order in for Spear's Intiminators and a Uni filter, but haven't heard from them yet. Not sure if they took an extra long weekend for Labor Day or if they're at the Isle of Man or something. I still need to order a set of springs, but I'll let you know when I get around to doing the swap, spent_too_much.
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Old September 4th, 2016, 11:49 PM   #20
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Can't wait to see it
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Old September 9th, 2016, 06:43 PM   #21
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Day 5: Sept 9th

Another good day of work in. I forgot to take pictures until after I'd packed the bike and tools in, though.

*Changed oil to Rotella T6.
*Drilled and wired drain plug.
*Hose clamped and wired the filter. The old oil was still fresh, so I left the old filter on.
*Wired all the coolant fittings I'd drilled earlier.
*Pulled the rear wheel and drilled/wired the rear caliper bolts. Rear calipers and pads look good, I'm going to leave them alone as I really will only be using the rear if I screw up and wind up grass-tracking.
*Pulling the rear axle was a royal PITA. Lots of hammering involved. Investigated and the spacer between the cush drive bearing and the main bearing has a small tab/burr thingy on the inside that's binding it up.
*Pulled the stock muffler and test fitted the Supertrapp.

So, coming up in the next week or so:
*Getting that damn burr out of the wheel spacer. I got some 1/2" wire plumbing brushes I'm going to chuck into my drill and see if I can make that work. If not, I may have to hit eBay.
*I got a set of Spears Intiminators in the mail today. So if the deburring goes well, I'll do the fork seal and take a look at the bushings.
*Once the forks are done, I need to pull, clean, and put new pads on the front brake. It got gooped with fork oil pretty good. Going to start with the EBC HH pads I picked up and go from there. I know EBC has a grabbier model, along with Vesrahs, but it'll do for now.
*Find a muffler shop, have 'em fab me a mid-pipe and hopefully decat/reweld my stock headers.
*If I do the headers, I'll drill/wire the header nuts and shoot the headers with BBQ paint.
*Clean up the Supertrapp, repack it and spray it with some BBQ paint.
*Need to order up some springs. I'll try calling Sonic tomorrow when I'm ready for a break.

Really, after that, I'm more or less in "safe" shape. Not competitive yet, but good enough for the track day coming up on the 23rd at PIR and *maybe* do a race or two if everything's shiny. Mainly I want to have the bike at the point where I can show it to the tech guys, ask if I'm missing anything and ask a couple questions about modding/detabbing within Supersport rules.
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Old September 9th, 2016, 06:59 PM   #22
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Old September 10th, 2016, 07:01 PM   #23
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Decided to take a break today (read: I slept in late). Got out and rode the Bonnezillah around in the afternoon. On the way home, she started missing occasionally and the speedo was going all wild. Finished limping home, did a walk-around to check for leaks/smoke/loose crap and tried to restart her and there's no juice whatsoever. Tools are in storage with the Ninja (along with my battery charger), but she's been sitting a lot lately and yet kept going to bring me home, so I wonder if the battery is hosed. The Ninjette might be getting a tiny LiFe battery sooner rather than later.

Thought for the day:
Quote:
You know what the first rule of flying is? ... Love. You take a boat in the air that you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turnin' o' the worlds. Love keeps her in the air when she aught ta fall down. Tells you she's hurtin' afore she keens. Makes her a home. - Capt. Malcom Reynolds - Serenity
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Old September 10th, 2016, 07:39 PM   #24
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can you grab a pic of the safty wired rear calper bolts.
i have been puzzled over this myself. just using rtv right now
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Old September 10th, 2016, 08:39 PM   #25
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I'm gonna try and get a day in tomorrow, I'll get a picture for ya. The bolts aren't fully recessed into the carrier, the heads are about halfway clear. You can't get a full wrap-around wiring job, but if you mark the heads for the right drill point, you can do a single hole and at least wire them so they've got opposing tension.

Also, torque the bolts in-situ, take off the wheel, do your wiring, then re-mount. It might be *possible* to wire it in-situ, but it's much easier with the caliper/carrier sitting in your lap for the relatively minor cost of adding the wheel removal/replacement procedure. Since the carrier slides, you can get the rear wheel on/off without having to unwire it. I'd have to double check, but I don't think you need to remove the carrier to do any service stuff on the caliper if you pull the wheel.
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Old September 10th, 2016, 08:53 PM   #26
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thanks no worries on the pic, i see what your saying.
thank you
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Old September 11th, 2016, 04:30 PM   #27
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So, here's the rear caliper anyway. Not quite aircraft-grade, but it gives the tech guys something to look at.

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Old September 11th, 2016, 04:53 PM   #28
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Day 6: Sept 11th

*Redneck honed the inside of that hub spacer enough to get the rear axle on/off with only the usual amount of profanity and muscle strain.
*Pulled the front brake, tossed the stock pads and cleaned/lubed the caliper. New pads are actually Galfer sintered. I coulda swore I got EBC ones. I haven't seen any comments on how well these work, but there's definitely plenty of meat to 'em. Left the caliper hanging on the fairing stay so it doesn't get re-gooped before I do the fork job.
*Spent a bunch of time cleaning up the Supertrapp. Popped out the core and old packing and stripped most of the paint off the outer can.
*Replaced the stock air filter with a Uni. Forgot I ordered this along with the Intiminators (I figured it wouldn't add anything to shipping).





I won't be doing the forks until Tuesday. I had it in my head I needed 10w fork oil with the 'timmies, but the instructions from Spears call for 5w. I'll give it a shot, and if it needs a little extra, I can always tip in a tablespoon of 15w from my stash.

In other news, I totally overthunk the problem with the Bonnie. The main positive lead snapped. It's a damn miracle she ran at all, and adequately explains the suddenness of the problem after riding fine for a few hours earlier. Let me tell ya, even with all the stuff I've hacked off her, that's not a bike you wanna push anywhere. Gonna hit the auto parts store tomorrow and see if I can find a suitably beefy terminal connector. Battery's on my deck getting a nice trickle charge.

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Old September 13th, 2016, 07:40 PM   #29
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Day 7: Sept 13th

*Fork seals replaced, along with crush washers on the damper rod bolts. The bushings looked new, so those stayed.
*General fork internals inspection/clean-out since I'm pretty sure it was 15w in there before.
*Spears "Race Model" Intiminators in, along with 5w fork oil.
*Oil height set at 135mm instead of the recommended 140 to help make up for the weak springs and oil loss when I get around to replacing them.
*Preload spacers left alone for now. Presuming my fat butt probably needed more than stock anyway.
*Front end completely reassembled.
*Front brake wired.
*Front and rear axles torqued.
*Heavy duty safety pins used in place of cotters, with the pins wired to the fork/swingarm.
*Did a few laps around the storage facility with some stoppie attempts to bed in the brakes and cool off a bit.

No place to hang the bike, so I wedged my ramp between the garage door and back wall and lifted from the top rung. I have a fork lift in the mail from SVRacingParts along with warmers and a lap timer.


Whoever came up with that retaining ring for the fork cap is one sadistic bastard. Threaded fork caps are always a pain, but muscling that plug down with one hand and then trying to get that little ring into the slot is insane. I understand it's probably cheaper and most Ninja 300 owners will never touch it, but still...


I'm suitably impressed with the Intiminators based on parking lot braking. I left a fairly small air gap to help with the low spring rate, but I can still tell it isn't right. I e-mailed Sonic a couple days ago and still haven't heard from him. I may just bite the bullet and pay extra for Racetech. That said, the front and rear feel fairly well balanced with the stock shock ratcheted up to the highest preload slot. I haven't had any luck with muffler shops, so I'm going to do some searching and see if I can open up the stock muffler a bit by drilling from one end or the other to bypass baffles for the first weekend. I have to remember to drill/wire the muffler mounting bolts. Messaged the guy I'm getting my used bodywork from, plan on doing that weekend after next in the paddock. I also need to find a number for the Dunlop guy and pre-order a set of Alpha 13s.
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Old September 14th, 2016, 05:49 PM   #30
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I'm almost positive I'm going with race tech when suspension time comes around here... Good work
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Old September 14th, 2016, 08:15 PM   #31
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Actually did some looking around and I ordered springs from Traxxion Dynamics today. Cost just a bit more than Sonic's. Racetech wanted $130 for springs plus shipping. I'm not convinced that there is any superior technology to be had in terms of springs that's worth $40 extra. Gonna start with this and then shop for a decent shock over the winter.

I called the local Dunlop guys a couple times but had to leave a message. Looks like around $250 for a pair of Alpha 13s. Dunlop's trackside guys have been cool to me as a track day guy, plus they just sell cheaper rather than screwing with contingency (that I'm not real likely to win).

I also signed up for the track day next Friday. My job is switching insurance, so I'll register for racing as soon as the new info comes in (personnel promises by this Friday). Saturday they're doing a Ultra Light Weight GP race (I *think* this is 12 laps vs the usual 6) and I'm not in great shape, so I think I'm going to plan on doing tech and either corner working or fixing tech issues, and then race on Sunday which will have the standard 6 lap ULW Supersport and Superbike races.
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Old September 15th, 2016, 06:55 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Burphel View Post
Actually did some looking around and I ordered springs from Traxxion Dynamics today. Cost just a bit more than Sonic's. Racetech wanted $130 for springs plus shipping. I'm not convinced that there is any superior technology to be had in terms of springs that's worth $40 extra. Gonna start with this and then shop for a decent shock over the winter.

I called the local Dunlop guys a couple times but had to leave a message. Looks like around $250 for a pair of Alpha 13s. Dunlop's trackside guys have been cool to me as a track day guy, plus they just sell cheaper rather than screwing with contingency (that I'm not real likely to win).

I also signed up for the track day next Friday. My job is switching insurance, so I'll register for racing as soon as the new info comes in (personnel promises by this Friday). Saturday they're doing a Ultra Light Weight GP race (I *think* this is 12 laps vs the usual 6) and I'm not in great shape, so I think I'm going to plan on doing tech and either corner working or fixing tech issues, and then race on Sunday which will have the standard 6 lap ULW Supersport and Superbike races.
I can confirm the $250 for the Alpha's. Running them on our NewGen 250 and had them put on at a race weekend. Great tires, stick like glue!

There is no 12 lap ULWGP race this Saturday or any ULWGP race on the schedule if you're talking about WMRRA....there is ULWSS Sunday, schedule is here: http://www.wmrra.com/2016round6.html

See you at Pacific!
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Old September 15th, 2016, 08:17 AM   #33
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Nah, I'm signed up with OMRRA for *next* weekend. Tire prices should be the same. I was just trying to get ahold of Dunlop to pre-order. I suppose they probably carry a couple sets around, I just want to make sure I'm not going out on Road Winners .

I'm a travel nurse, so racing with the WMRRA crew is a definite possibility next year. Just all depends where I'm working. Right now I'm about 2 hours south of Portland on the coast, so that's 4 hours each way to the Ridge/Pacific.
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Old September 15th, 2016, 08:56 AM   #34
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Nah, I'm signed up with OMRRA for *next* weekend. Tire prices should be the same. I was just trying to get ahold of Dunlop to pre-order. I suppose they probably carry a couple sets around, I just want to make sure I'm not going out on Road Winners .

I'm a travel nurse, so racing with the WMRRA crew is a definite possibility next year. Just all depends where I'm working. Right now I'm about 2 hours south of Portland on the coast, so that's 4 hours each way to the Ridge/Pacific.
Ah, OK! Was hoping I'd see you this weekend. Dunlop guy always has Alphas, don't worry.

For some reason I thought you were local to up north...nevermind then!
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Old September 18th, 2016, 09:44 PM   #35
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I have done 6 track days on my Alpha 13's on my 250. Been great tires so far.
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Old September 20th, 2016, 01:39 PM   #36
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Quote:
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Nah, I'm signed up with OMRRA for *next* weekend. Tire prices should be the same. I was just trying to get ahold of Dunlop to pre-order. I suppose they probably carry a couple sets around, I just want to make sure I'm not going out on Road Winners .
Still enjoying your build thread :-) Come by my pit #102 and say HI if you're at PIR this weekend. There's a little black ninja that should look very familiar!

Also, I got tire warmers now so I have a set of lightly used BT003 takeoffs if you want to buy them?
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Old September 20th, 2016, 08:49 PM   #37
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Well, I'm all signed up for the Friday track day and the ULW SS/SB on Sunday. I'll see how Friday feels, but unless I feel like a rock star on the bike, I'm gonna skip the GP on Saturday and either work on fixing any tech issues or get some volunteer hours in. I picked up some warmers myself, so I'm gonna go with Dunlops. It looks like the guy I'm buying my track skins from won't be there until late Friday, so I'll be running around naked except for a ZG touring screen. I also have a few tweaks left to do on the bike trackside that I'm thinking I can squeeze in by skipping the first session. That's when it's usually cold and the overly eager crash anyhow. Putting in new springs, wiring up the exhaust, changing tires without captive wheel spacers. That kind of stuff.

At the moment, I'll be camping out of a U-Haul box trailer for the weekend. Look for one with 746 on the side in painter's tape. Yup, I'm one of them high-dollar outfits...
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Old September 22nd, 2016, 10:41 AM   #38
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Cool! see you tomorrow. I'll be pitted with #738 and we're no rockstars... more like budget-racing-for-beginners
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Old September 27th, 2016, 11:34 AM   #39
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The track day and race weekend went pretty well. I'm still kind of recovering and parsing what happened, so I'll post up some details later. Here's some pictures from my pit for now.

The bike, all skinned up, on warmers, and ready to go.


My well-equipped race trailer.
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Old September 27th, 2016, 04:31 PM   #40
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Love the race trailer! I was thinking about doing that once I get into racing as well.
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