November 23rd, 2018, 10:27 AM | #1 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Karman
Location: New haven
Join Date: Nov 2018 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250r Red Posts: 23
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Petcock plumbing
Hello all, I have researched and am pretty sure how the plumbing goes to the carbs...however I have a T connector which one end is going towards the front of the bike. I wanted to know how to connect the pet cock and that line that is going to the front. When I took off the gas tank the pet cock vacuum line was already disconnected. Probably why my bike wasn’t running on the ‘on’ position
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November 23rd, 2018, 12:38 PM | #2 |
Rev Limiter
Name: Jay
Location: WI
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Does this help? - https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Carburetor_photos
More carb info - https://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Intake |
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November 24th, 2018, 06:32 AM | #3 |
ninjette.org member
Name: Karman
Location: New haven
Join Date: Nov 2018 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250r Red Posts: 23
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Incase anyone reads this, I was able to fix the issue. The bike was not able to run with the petcock in the on position only prime. The previous owner did some odd work to it and left the petcock vacuum line unplugged. I removed the kleen air system and plugged the petcock into the carbs and the bike starts up right away now. I also added three washers under each needle and removed the snorkle from the air box with a kn filter. I have a slip on Vince something exhaust.
My question is although the bike seems to be good now, it is around 35 degrees out.. I’m sure that it will be slightly running rich once the weather warms up... Will removing the CAT in the exhaust help to lean out the system? Even if it only leans it out 1% do the fellow forum people believe it will achieve a leaning out effect? Thanks I appreciate your opinions |
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November 24th, 2018, 12:47 PM | #4 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Karman
Location: New haven
Join Date: Nov 2018 Motorcycle(s): 2010 Ninja 250r Red Posts: 23
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November 24th, 2018, 02:03 PM | #5 | |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: AKA JacRyann
Location: Mesa, AZ
Join Date: Dec 2011 Motorcycle(s): CB125T CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350R-MC21 VF500F CBR600RR SFV650 VFR750F R1M ST1300PA Valkyrie-F6C Posts: A lot.
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Quote:
What is "easy" is often not proper & correct or high-performance. What is correct and proper operation, also yielding high-performance is often not "easy". So choosing between 30-minutes to add some shims or 20-60hrs of carb-cleaning? I can see why 95% of people take the easy way out. But it's only a temporary solution like cocaine or meth, the effects and results are not permanent. You'll be back for more... Also note that your new-gen model (08-12), while sharing many similarities with pre-gen 88-07 models, also have some very clear differences. The pre-gen models have extremely aggressive cam-specs for 14.5k-redline and makes peak-HP at redline. New-gen models are tuned more for mid-range-torque, has about 10% less power which peaks at 11k and redlines around 13k. I don't ever rev past 12k anyway since torque&power drops off so fast after 11k that the bike is actually slower when spun up. However, I can make freeway passes without shifting on new-gen due to mid-range torque, while on pre-gen biks, I'd have to downshift 2-gears. The carb-tuning and ignition-mappings therefore are configured differently for these two different engines. Keep a note of that when reading this board; not all mods for pre-gens apply to new-gens and vice-versa. |
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November 24th, 2018, 02:09 PM | #6 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Karman
Location: New haven
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November 24th, 2018, 02:21 PM | #7 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: AKA JacRyann
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MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
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Shouldn't be a problem. You're compensating for earlier fuel-circuit restrictions by opening up later passages so overall fueling is close to appropriate.
Once you get carbs completely clean and factory-fresh, you'll find 3-washers is too much and may bog bike down when opening throttle. So you'll want to go down to 1-washer to adjust for muffler & snorkel-removal in mid-range. In high-end/full-throttle you'll still be too-rich @ 10:1 AFR, which can really only be adjusted with changing main-jets and needle-taper. The Dynojet kit does this by using smaller main-jets and needle with thicker tip (less taper) to lean out high-end. Remember that '60s hot-rod slogan... |
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November 24th, 2018, 02:31 PM | #8 | |
ninjette.org member
Name: Karman
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November 24th, 2018, 04:08 PM | #9 |
ninjette.org certified postwhore
Name: AKA JacRyann
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MOTY - 2018, MOTM - Nov '17
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Yep, still drain carb bowls after you've added Sta-bil and non-ethanol gas (octane doesn't matter).
Also helps to run through bottle of PEA-rich fuel-system cleaner every couple months to keep carbs clear of dried-gas gel. Red Line SI-1 or Chevron Techron Concentrate (1/2 bottle per tank twice). |
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