DIY - Adjusting the rear shock preload

[Liquidtoon]

I am 185 and I went to p4 but I think I like the ride a bit stiff. It is an effect you can really feel in seconds. If your not sure take it for a quick ride in p1 then the same ride in p5 adjust to comfort.

[DarkNinja52]

Adjusted mine yesterday, as some people mentioned it was a little hard to do at first, but i was able to get it with one hand from the left side of the bike (using my right hand and holding the bike with my left).

I adjusted to the second setting, and probably going to adjust once more to the third today.

I weigh 150lbs and i'm just wondering what the worst thing that could happen is if i ride it at a setting that may be too high say the 5th setting?

[DarkNinja52]

Adjusted again today. Went from 2 to 3, then back to 3 to 2. Both directions seemed very difficult compared to 1 to 2 for some reason =/

Slipped and hurt my hand trying to do 2 to 3, then put some gloves on

3 was really stiff for me (150lb rider) So I went back to 2. which felt better than 1 but couldve just been in my head. We'll see tomorrow.

But for the record you can go from higher numbers to lower numbers and I had to take the swingarm off both times this time unlike the first time which I was able to do gloveless and with one hand for some odd reason ??

[Momaru]

Originally Posted by DarkNinja52

... I had to take the swingarm off both times ...

Holy frijoles! That's a bunch of work, pulling the whole swingarm just to change your preload.
Or are you talking about the chain guard?

[kaiserz]

so I'm guessing 190lbs is gonna be at number 3?

[DarkNinja52]

Originally Posted by Momaru

Holy frijoles! That's a bunch of work, pulling the whole swingarm just to change your preload.
Or are you talking about the chain guard?

yes! and shush

yea, i had to lean on the swingarm

but yea im back down to setting 2. and definitely recommend wearing gloves. i have a hole in my hand because i was too stubborn to take advice...

[NDspd]

Guess for a dude like me ( 5' 11'', 180lbs) I will need mine at #2? I think my bike right now is at #1, and the rear end is a bit soft. So, I'll go out tonight and try it out.

[Fleshbazbo]

Bare ass nekked I'm about 215 ponds and oddly enough my 2009 ex250 is perfect on notch 4, but my 2012 ex250 is perfect on notch 1.
No explanation for the difference in the suspensions. Sure are fun to ride.

[CZroe]

They DIY should probably be updated to mention that there is a pipe in the OEM tool kit that can give you more leverage. It's possible to fit the axel wrench in one side and the spaner tool in the other for even more leverage. They may have changed this over the years, but it's certainly there in the 2008 kit. I say this because @ninja250 showed a different tool in his post about adjusting the steering on his GSXR with it but he insists that it came from his 250R's OEM tool kit.



http://www.ninjette.org/forums/showp...&postcount=124

[Cuongism]

Haven't seen that type before. Mine looks like this:



From Bikebandit.com, toolkit for 2010 model:



I currently have an adjustable spanner to futureproof for all bikes.

[CZroe]

Originally Posted by Cuongism

Haven't seen that type before. Mine looks like this:



From Bikebandit.com, toolkit for 2010 model:

...

I currently have an adjustable spanner to futureproof for all bikes.

Yep. Same as mine.

[Fleshbazbo]

I used the same tool for adjusting my rear shock. Mine came out of Honda tool kit.

[heylookitsfranco]

so I went from position 1 to position 5 a few months ago, and I never really looked back. Am I making my ride unnecessarily uncomfortable without any real handling gains? I'm 5'9" and about 165-175lbs (scale broke some time ago so that's ballpark) if that helps at all

[Fleshbazbo]

Originally Posted by heylookitsfranco

so I went from position 1 to position 5 a few months ago, and I never really looked back. Am I making my ride unnecessarily uncomfortable without any real handling gains? I'm 5'9" and about 165-175lbs (scale broke some time ago so that's ballpark) if that helps at all

Does not really matter how heavy you are. The reason you want the front and back of the bike to drop together(at the same time) is for the extreme riding conditions like racing or panic handling (to get out of the way of a car approaching you in your lane). If the bike suspension drops in a predictable manner you will have a better chance of saving it (and Yourself) with out having to deal with the front or back end washing out Or having to dump the bike to save your self. If your back is harder than your front causing you to suffer Soften the back end till it at least matches the front. You will get a better ride and better more predictable handling under EXTREME conditions (something you would not notice under most riding conditions. This is how the racers set up there suspension. I am only passing on the information. Happy trails.

[gfloyd2002]

I've been toying with my suspension settings recently based on feedback in this and related threads. I've tried all five settings in various conditions now and found the following:

*I weigh 160 pounds. Setting number 2 works best for me on local, bumpy roads. Setting 3 works best on very good roads.
*Road conditions are worth 1 setting. When I am riding on good roads, I prefer a 3.
*Type of riding I'm doing is worth 1 setting. For spirited rides in the twisties, upping the suspension setting one notch to a 3 works well for me, back down to a 2 for the commute.
*Adding weight in luggage or a rider is worth 1-2 settings. An extra rider is worth 2 notches, depending on mass of the passenger. Luggage and gear adds one notch.

Overall, I found that handling does not suffer much with maximum preload. No problem hooking up the back tire out of the corner (which is the risk of running suspension that is too stiff) even riding with the setting on 5. In fact, I found turn in to be slightly better with overly stiff rear suspension. Our bikes simply lack the power to create the typical problems running with rear suspension that is too stiff. When I was running at a 5, I got a bit chattery in the back tire in less than perfect road conditions, though, and the ride is painfully uncomfortable on local, poor roads. While my outcome in corners didn't get worse, my confidence and especially my comfort eroded.

When I went too soft for conditions, there was a noticeable detriment in handling. The back tire seemed to have less grip in hard cornering and particularly in braking. My outcomes were definitely worse, requiring slower speeds and resulting in a bit more rear wheel adventure. So, if you are between settings, erring on the side of being too stiff by one setting is probably not a bad call overall on these bikes. In fact, there is an argument to be made for just saying "F*#k it" and dialling it straight up to 5 regardless of how much you weigh. For me, the roads are too bad, and I hate jamming my nuts on the seat, so I'm at a 2 or 3 as a 160 pound rider, depending on conditions and purpose of ride.

Just my observations. YMMV.

[CZroe]

I've been dialed all the way up since I carried my fat butt and all my luggage cross-country in 2008. :P

[NDspd]

I've just stuck with notch 3, it feels firm enough and with some of the rough roads I live by I need it.

[MagicMike]

My bike was set at 1. Changed it to 3 on the weekend, then went back to 2. Still feels too hard (our roads are ****) so I'm going to go back to 1.

I am 92kgs (x2.2 for pound conversion). Bike is a comuter.

[adouglas]

If you're having trouble moving the adjuster, note that it's a whole lot easier if you unload the rear suspension.

If you have spools and a track stand, this is easy. Lift the bike up on the track stand and place a ladder over the rear end above the passenger pegs.

Loop a strap over the ladder, and under the tail of the bike, through the passenger peg supports. Tighten. Remove the track stand and hey presto… your bike is hanging.

Another note: I just bought a GSXR, which is my first bike with fully adjustable suspension, so I've been reading up on how to do setup properly and I've been fiddling with it. The idea is to get the suspension working in the middle of its range.

The steps, basically, are:

Lift the bike and unload the suspension completely as above.

Measure the distance between a point on the swing arm (e.g. axle) and a point directly above it on the bodywork.

Get the bike on the ground, level and supported upright (either have a friend hold it up or put it on front and rear stands -- same thing as being on the ground).

Get on the bike wearing your gear.

Have a friend repeat the measurement using the exact same reference points.

The consensus recommendation for a street bike is that the suspension should compress (sag) with you on the bike about 30-35mm. Adjust preload to achieve this.

Google Dave Moss Suspension videos and you'll get a really good education.

[CraigRR]

I used a floor jack with the bike on stands to relieve the tension on the spring. Worked fine for adjusting the tension. I set it to the 3rd position. I am 160lbs + 20-30lbs in full gear.